socal

update . the problem went away i stuck the key in and out 4 or 5 times turned it on and the wts light came on it does take a little longer to shut off but i have no problems since. thanks for your help guys

so heres a update turns out the problem wasn't my ecm or crank sensor. installed a timbo apps on my truck when i first got it. and when i set the idle screw i never put some loctite so after awhile it threaded in more and was making it idle high in park if i remember i think the timbo instructions dont tell you to put some loctite on the screw. such a simple thing to think of first to check on a old carb engine but when you think of engine that has a ecm and all that electrical **** its the last thing i thought of. hope this helps another member out.

thanks guys . i think im gonna go with the murray from o'reilly its a 2 row and comes with lifetime warrenty. i travel back and forth from ca to az so if it does give me grief i know there is a o'reilly in every town. there was a place making copper ones but after searching for them i found out they went under

Well I have leak on my drivers side tank. Who makes a good radiator. Is the original a 2 row or 3

I tried moving the key in the ignition and the WTS light turned on. Gonna try replacing the switch before I move to the ecm

are you saying you had the same WTS problem and using the spare key stopped it?

I replaced the alternator already with a new not a rebuilt one some time ago when I was getting the jumping back and forth problem with the trans. And no huck ups since then. If it's the ecm. Can I send in a different one or does it have to be the one off my truck . I just picked up another 24 v with its ecm on it. I would rather send it in to get rebuilt. I also get a random check engine light. I use my obd which Inova and I get no codes in the system

im starting to get this problem and when it doesnt turn on an cycle its hard to start even if the engine is warm. its kinda like when i turn the key on its not turning on the power to it cause if i turn it off and turn it on then it will click on or if i bump start it and turn the key off then turn it on the WTS light turns on and as soon as it turn off the it fires right up. i can pull my ignition key out while the truck is running, it came that way when i bought it used. do you think the ignition switch needs to be replaced or a fuse or relay?

I changed the crank sensor back to the old one and it still shoots up to 2100 rpm. So I would say it's not the sensor

Alright thanks. I just tried starting it and now the wts light wont come on. And I get a check engine light. But no codes My truck is a 1999 so it would be the crank sensor? Is the cam sensor behind the vp pump? I remember changing a sensor there when I first bought it

Can you tell me what exactly does the cam sensor and crank sensor do?

well its been awhile since i have had to come on her fro help. but here i am. i noticed about a month ago my truck was idling a little high every now and then when i would have it in park. yesterday it got worse. i came to a stop on the off ramp and it liked loped. it went from 700 down to like 300 rpm a couple times at stop. i looked at my fuel pressure gauge and it was steady so it was getting fuel . i put it in N and it was idling at 900 to 1000. i drove to my bank and tried resetting my throttle by turning it the engine off and turning the key back on and pushing the gas peddle down slow and letting it back up slow. it didn't lope anymore but it was still idling at 1000 rpm in park . i put it in drive and it would show 700 on rpm. i did some searching last night and most part i kept seeing its a bad crank sensor that is the cause. i replaced it about 30 thousand miles ago with a napa one. this morning i went to cummins to buy a new one and i noticed it was idling high to the point while driving it was like i had cruise control on . and when i came to a stop it was like i had one foot on the brake and the other foot on the gas peddle still giving it a little gas. i let the engine cool down and i washed the engine before i started changing the sensor. i pulled the old one out and installed the new one from cummins. got to start it and now it goes strait to 2100 rpms and it wont come down . i dont get any check engine light i hooked up my scanner and theres no codes. im gonna try putting the old sensor back in tomorrow to see if it drops the rpm so i can move it. any ideals what is the problem? i replaced the cam sensor around the same time i replaced the old crank sensor. i replaced the sensor on the trans also some time back. i started getting the tranny shift back and forth problem some time back and i replaced the alternator with a brand new one and that took care of that problem. the engine has been rebuilt about 20 thousand miles ago, i replaced the vp pump and lift pump and the apps sensor around the same time also. as a matter a fact the fass pump died just before the warranty ended and fass gave me a new that was about 2,000 miles ago. could it be my ecm taking a dump?

Well I've been lucky but now I think my luck is running out. The last time I had a problem I just charged up the batteries and cleaned the connections and it quit but now it doesn't want to leave this time. I haven't done the test yet. Like remove fuse or volt test. I am looking to order a brand new alternator not refurb. Can I use a denso if I have a Bosch . Also when I start it the gauge sits between 10 and 14 then slowly goes up to 14.

thanks i'll do that . i changed the sensor today and the old one had grey stuff on the tip that looked like metal dust or shaving like on a magnet.

i had a weird one today. i came down the off ramp and made my stop. went to take off and as i am taking off truck died. rolled to a stop and put it in park and it fired right back up but i got a CIL and the code was PO720 which is output shaft speed sensor could it cause it to die like that . it sucked cause i had on coming traffic as it died .