socal

i was talking to the machinist and was telling him about the light film of oil on my cooler tube from the turbo and he said that it might of came from the blow-by. any thoughts on that? this truck had really bad blow-by especially when i put a load on it or took it over 70mph

well i went to the shop and it didn't have a lobe for the fuel pump. i did find out that my engine has been resleaved before on all cylinders. so i am thinking this motor came from jasper, because i have a jasper sticker on my door pillar. he said it will be fine. so i am going with that. called cummins and it's gonna cost me about $1,200 to #1,300 for everything i need. it's pretty cool that there only 15 minutes from me so no waiting for shipping or long drives to get what i need.

i'll ask the the guy at the machine shop.

there's no manual fuel pump. it has a electric lift pump that you have to switch to after market pump. i used the fass pump and it works great

i took everything out except the crank. he said the cam looked good and the lifters were fine. i posted a pic of the lifter on a earlier post but i don't have a pic of the cam. the motor seemed to be in pretty good condition other that that #2 piston.

yeah hes doing assembly for 750. only 90 day warranty on the engine. don't seem like much. but i was always told you'll know if your motor is **** real quick. so i plan to drive the crap out of it to make sure there is no problems before my 90 days is up the diesel shop i was gonna have do the work told me he does all there engine work and he has never had a problem. he said he switched machine shops the engines they did the rings wouldn't sit so he came back to this guy.

well i finally took it into the shop and he said what MnTom said. looks like a bad injector. hes gonna bore it it and sleeve it and then hone the rest. he said the valves on #2 looks ok but hes gonna tear the head down check everything he said he will probably do a head job and resurface it. which is fine with me cause i want a complete fresh engine not just a fresh short block. i was gonna try to assemble it but one i don't have the time and to i want this done right so i don't have to pull it again, to much damn work. it's gonna cost me $1,400 and some change for him to do the machine work and assemble it. he's gonna install everything and i just have to put it back in the truck and install the rest. i just have to furnish the parts other then the sleeve. he told me to buy my parts from this company http://interstate-mcbee.com/ their like a hour away from where i live, or i could go to cummins which like 20 minutes away . he said allot of diesel customers he has, buy there parts from them and their cheaper then cummins. anybody ever use them? i don't know if that's allot that he is charging but he was the machine shop that the diesel shop i took my truck to was gonna use and i could only find two other shops that would do machine work on a diesel engine. one wanted 3.500 and the other didn't look to promising. thanks again guys for your help and info. i hope this motor work out great when i'm done.

no i was having problems with it when i bought it. it just got worse. maybe he didnt back off on a grade, no pyro meter in it. or he got some dirt in the intake with that cheap air filter. maybe i am wrong but the rest of the engine looks like there is hardly any where. truck only has 195,000 miles on it. and from what every ones tell me, it hasn't even been broke in yet. theres no sign on the stock torque converter to show it got hot. there is a jasper sticker on my door pillar but they didnt circle what was replaced.

heres some more pics

i am hooked on that youtube channel . i wish he would finish the latest build he started. there's really no mods to my truck. its pretty much stock. just rv injectors. Yeah Mopar i hear ya. i already started. all i have left is to remove the crank. other then that piston the rest of the engine appears to look in great condition. but i'll take some pics to show you guys

well i finally got the head off and it looks like #2 is toast and i seen a valve is chipped. #1 looks like it got a little scored too

any recommendations on a torque converter and valve body kit? i was looking as BD diesel products

well i finally got the engine out. gonna call the machine shop tomorrow to see when i can bring it down and ask if he wants me to tear it down before i bring it. i do want to take the head off to see the pistons. i wanted to ask you guys. my brother told me a trans shop told him to change his stock torque converter to a HD one on his dodge. that the stock one takes a dump. have you guys heard of this and if so what converter should i use. i don't want to have to separate the motor and trans again. also if this was your motor what rebuild kit would you use and is there any mods you would do to it. i only plan on pulling my car trailer, camping trailer, and dump trailer.

thanks i'll do that while the engine is at the shop. do i need to clean the oil if any out of the cooler too?

sorry i should of said it better . the oil is in the tube going to the cooler. i'll take some pics tomorrow to show you guys. i didn't get to work on it today. but will get it out this weekend so i can get it to the machine shop monday

i'm using a stock one from napa. when i bought it it had a after market foam one. i dont know if it has any play. how do i check it?

well i started last night taking the bumper and bumper guard off, that took some time. but i started taking everything off today. taking my time and putting everything in marked Baggies so i dont have a hard time remembering where everything goes or having to go to the book every ten minutes. . can somebody tell me what i have to do to separate it from the transmission. do i have to drop the trans too? i have been taking pics so maybe they can help some one who has never done this before like me. also i noticed some oil in my turbo cooler tube and on the face of the turbo. should i be worried or is it from the blow-by? first thing is to wash it get all that blow-by oil off

i have a quick question. my truck has the 53 block in it and its not cracked. i bought it used so i dont know if this is the original engine that came with it but the truck has 195,000 miles on it. i live in southern california so it doesn't get as cold as it does in other states. should i be worried that it might crack in the future? what other years of block can i use, if i can find a bare block or do i have to find a 99.

well i got in touch with a machine shop finally. had a hard time finding one that does diesels and good work. i started taking it apart. today after work..

thanks for the info guys. i got off work late so im gonna try going to the machine shop tomorrow and talk to them

i can't get the download to open

thanks for the down load section now i can print pages and keep my book clean.

i'm using a stock one but when i bought the truck it had one of those foam looking types. the shops i have gone to are basically are gonna do what i am gonna try to do. pull the engine and send it out to a machine shop and get it back and assemble.

i cant afford to pay a shop to do it so i am thinking of doing it my self. i know my way around tools and i have rebuilt gas engines but never a diesel. what i need to know is what rebuild kits are good out there? i seen dap offers one. or should i just go to cummins and get one. i found a machine shop in my area that is supposed to do diesel engines so i am gonna go there tomorrow and see what they charge to do the machine work. the reason i am gonna rebuild is i am getting really bad blow-by it even popped my tappet cover i installed and is blowing oil out there. the truck has a little over 200,000 miles on it but i bought it used. any tips or advise would be greatly appreciated.

i had the same problem contact fass and ask for the longer spring. i don't know why they just don't install it instead of the short one. they sent one out and i had to take the pump back out just to change springs. kinda sucks if you have to pay a shop cause i bet they don't reimburse you for paying twice