MtnTrails

Thanks for the input. I will look into that. Checked IAT sensor, it seems to be operating correctly, apps next then.

Since adjusting the valves, and re-torquing the exhaust manifold bolts, I have been through two tanks of fuel. They made a difference of about 1/2 mpg. Wish it was more than that. My next plan of attack is to check the intercooler for leaks, then have the injectors re-built. Also wondering if the OP solved his problem? Still hunting?

The book I have (Haynes) lists exhaust manifold bolt torques at 32 ft. lbs.

My mileage has been pretty crappy as well. The OP is spot on what I was experiencing. Per one of Michael's post, I checked brake drag first, using one of the laser surface temp gauges they have at Lowe's. All seems well there. I decided to check valve lash next, truck has 170k now, in spite of the claim 99 and newer doesn't need them adjusted as a maintenance item. After reading ISX's article: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/4209-Valve-Lash?highlight=valve+adjustment I decided to set them to .006 on the intakes and .015 on the exhausts. While doing those, I noticed the bolts on the exhaust manifold cylinder 6 were loose, and not just a little. They probably would have fallen out in about 5 more miles. So I re-torqued those. Took it out for a ride tonight, about 20 miles. So far it looks like one of those two fixed the issue. I'll keep an eye on it and report back when I have some more miles on it.

Today I adjusted the valves on mine to 6/15. The difference is noticeable, the spool seems like it starts as soon as I touch the throttle. Thanks for all the research, and sharing it all!

Got it resolved, it was indeed the MAP sensor that crapped out. The ScanGauge is pretty nice to have along also. I was trying to figure out how to pull the MAP voltages out of it as the link Michael posted indicates but didn't have any luck with that one. Sorta ran out of time and decided to throw the new sensor at it, see if that did the trick which it did. Am I missing something in the ScanGuage instructions? Thanks again for the info and help!

Point made and taken. I've got one coming, couldn't locate anyone local that had it in stock. Should be here Tuesday afternoon. Can't wait, I hate it when the Dodge runs like a dog. Thanks again for the link for checking wiring, I needed that!

Wow, thanks for the fast response Michael. From that and the wiring checks you linked to; sounds like it'd be advantageous to be able to pull and reset codes as needed - save lots of trips to autozone. Seems I remember reading on this forum about Scan Guage II being able to do this? How much install time on that (I'd call myself reasonably competent with wiring, but not expert by any means). Or would I be further ahead to buy one of the hand held code readers?

Hi all. I'm wondering if I'm headed in the right direction here:Yesterday while out and around I noticed the Edge comp was reading 0 boost continuously. At one point while accelerating it started jumping between 0 and 15 psi, which I could definitely feel, pulled hard while it read boost, then felt and sounded like it was lugging when 0 boost. Took it home and checked for way obvious stuff, unpluggled connectors, damaged wires, found nothing. Decided to take it to Autozone to have the codes pulled and on the way there the Edge started squawking an alarm that the boost was running at 40 psi, and did it when I let off the throttle to slow down.The only code that came out of it was P0236 "Turbocharger boost sensor circuit, range or performance problem; MAP sensor voltage too high for too long." Well gee, no kidding. :rolleyes2:So I'm inferring that the comp is reading boost from the MAP sensor? Is cleaning the sensor as described on this site likely to help, or just fork out the hundred bucks for a new one? Any other suspects I should be looking at?Thanks in advance