Crepitus

Thanks for the write up. Im a little confusied about a point that is important to me, does the clutch down shift well? I realise that it may improve as the clutch breaks in and the operator gets used to it. I drive a lot of steep twistys, a clean down shift is a must have.ThanksDave

2nd for me unless very steep or heavy load. likin this;

All of the airdogs mount the pump over the filters making a tall assy I am thinking the raptor so nothing is hanging down BUT a good point; the remote filters will not be heated makeing retention of the stock heated filter pointless. allways somthin - - - Updated - - - aww then there's this:ashamed: http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6960-Terrible-luck-with-Raptor

As this is starting to take shape in my head I am leaning towards the Raptor 150 http://www.vulcanperformance.com/raptor-FP-150-fuel-system-p/rptd150.htm and a remote filter assy like the VPmax; http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP-MAX-Dual-Remote-Filter-Kit-p/drff.htm This assy uses a 3 micron filter near as I can tell the best filter for the stock housing is 8m This setup will be able to tuck up high next to the bed. I dont like systems that hang down under the frame rail.

This lil kit right here looks pretty cool. Long radius 90's 3/8 push lock between the filter and the VP; http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-p/ffipn375.htm and here for 1/2" w/ a 90 tapped for a FP gage take off http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

I would like to look over your shoulder on one of these installs. Your not in WA by any chance? I know its a pain in the ___ but if you could post a list of the necessary fittings in and out and maby a pic or too that would be great. I would like to retain the WIF and heater but if it is gonna be a significant restriction I guess it needs to go. I really need this truck to start every time any where. I need a smart place to pull a signal for a fuel pressure gage in there as well. This is the beginning of a over all mod strategy. I am looking to understand where the acceptable drive ability and reliability limits are then choose a mod package that I can live with. I am expecting the clutch to probably be the limiting factor in how much power I can build, because I need a clutch engagement smooth enough to position trailers by inching back and forth as well as clean enough release to shift up and down. I expect this will limit me to a 450 - 475 hp clutch with a single disk using organic lining on at least one side. I believe the 02 6 speed clutch lay out will help a little here, but that will be an other thread.... btw thanks for the replys:thumbup2:

I want to start mods with a lift pump. One thing that I am concerned about is loosing the fuel heater. I often work in Eastern Montana and the Dakotas. Do I need to retain the fuel heater? Can I use something like a Fass 150 and retain the fuel heater?ThanksDave

Thanks for the replys! I did not realize that it would degrade the cetane, n didnt really consider pumpabillity:doh:. I figured if a 5% WMO was OK The Wally lube at a similar mix would be great. Looks like I should cut down the mix a bit. This is in the 93 as well as the 02. btw I save the WMO for the wood stove in the shop.

I have been using Wally 2 stroke in my diesel. I see that you guys are using a lot less than I have been. I like to dump a gallon in to each tank = 20 or 30 to 1. Saving 5 or 6 bucks each tank isnt real important to me, especally if it gives the IP a little more lube. Any potential problums at this mix? (btw I aint fouled any spark plugs yet )