Gridcon736

No key on , key off, just try it... hold your odometer button in and turn they key on to the run position, it will read CHCK and if you have codes they will be there. If you press it again it will do a full instrument cluster check of all your lights too.

Those are the codes on the instrument cluster when you hold the odometer button down and turn the key on. I am looking here for help on description and how to fix it. The only data line that I have not checked yet is the overhead console. I will check that out tomorrow night. PS. I sometimes get a P1689 code on the scan tool.

I have gone over every single ground and have done every test in the world on this truck! I am getting the peek-a-boo instrument cluster, it will work,then it won't(No bus) and I am at a loss! I even took the time to remove the ECM and clean all the contacts and scrub the ground points on the block behind it,by the way guys, not a bad idea to do that on high mileage trucks when you change your fuel filter you can get to the ECM really easily and mine had that white build up on it. Anyhow, the codes I get when the dash dies are.......900920921940950999I did the self check on the cluster and ALL the lights work. I also did the PCM connections including the white,square com port at the fuse box. The PCM check with multi-meter checked out good too, not sure where to go with this now:think: Please help! Thanks in advance.

What type of line do they use, it looks like a rubber hose and not metal tubing like I thought it would be. What diameter do they use, I would like to put hard lines in if that is acceptable practice for this.

I am losing brake fluid on my 99 Ram 3500 Dually and I noticed there is brake fluid running down the side of the fuel tank. Is there a hard line in the frame rail there? Do I have to drop the tank to fix it? Can it be routed a different way? The tank is plum full, so I hope I don't have to drop it!

We got the the truck running this morning! We cleaned the those 2 hot lead wires(Black&Black w/white stripe) attached to the positive battery cable on the drivers side,what are those, they go to 2 coil like things mounted to the inner fender well? Now we still have the fuses and relays pulled for the lights and the blower motor and we will be testing those circuits today.Mopar Man...where did you say those grounds were for the blower and lights? I have not found that point yet.Thanks guys, I will post more info as it comes in and pictures when I finally have her on the road.

Newby here again. This site is awesome,thanks again guys!:thumb1:I have a buddy that is trying to sell a 12v with about 175,000 miles on it, and with all the trouble I seem to be having with my 24v he mentioned that maybe I should just swap them out. How big of a project would this be?Is it even a smart move? I would really like to get the 24v going just for the education but I really need to get this truck on the road soon. I have to let go of my Toyota soon and need this truck running before I can do that.

Ok, found the burnt wire went to the grounding point behind the drivers side headlight! Fixed that and we believe it was caused by a shorted out heater blower motor. We will be testing that in the morning.The thing I can't figure out now, is that the truck would run fine before we found the wiring issue, now that we have that figured out it will crank but not fire. It is showing the dreaded No bus code but it did that before and it would run. The other thing is that the lift pump seems to go through that 25 second cycle everytime I turn the key. Any help would be GREATLY appreciated! Thanks

J/C 1 pin 28 is the the first wire if you are reading left to right and top to bottom, it started to burn right at the fuse panel and went maybe 8-10 inches out of the panel about at the point where the harness has the first y in it where it splits to drop down the fender well under the brake booster and the rest of the harness feeds towards and through the firewall. Hope this helps! Thanks:pray: - - - Updated - - - Anyone else out there have some information for me?:pray:

The burnt wire is J/C 1 pin 28. It must be pulling all it can get because I barely had the battery connected and it lit up fast! I have gone over all the grounds and cleaned them and put dialectric grease on them and all connections that I have touched to date. Thanks

Newby here, I just bought a 99 dually with an apparent wiring issue! I replaced the entire fuse box and harness this weekend only to barely touch the positive and have smoke start rolling out the fuse box!:banghead: I opened up the fuse box to peek under it and found the burnt wire is from the J/C 1 port. What is it,and how do I fix it? The truck was running before this but had the parking lamp on engine shut off problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated!