Hood Latch

Mike: Yes, I agree. While I have no way of proving it @ this point, I too am thinking that it has to do with g.p.h. limitations of this pump and the somewhat restrictive size of the stock plumbing. As you, and others have pointed out before: Dodge/Cummins seems to have short cutted the fuel delivery systems on the 2nd. Gen's. As I have stated: If I ever think this pump is not providing what I need for my situation, or if I ever decide to do any horsepower upgrades, I will most certainly go to a higher g.p.h. pusher pump down next to the tank with big lines all the way to the vp44. Hood Latch

Yes, I am using the stock plumbing. As I indicated, the FASS DDRP was installed @ the stock location on the side of the block.

Finally made my choices for now, and here's how it went. My project proceeded as follows: 1st. I installed a new DiPricol mechanical fuel pressure gauge, and ran the line directly from the vp44 to the gauge without any device (snubber, needle valve, isolator, etc.) in between. I did this because I wanted p.s.i. readings from the stock carter lift pump and then the FASS DDRP lift pump without any interference from any inline device. 2nd. I installed a new FASS DDRP lift pump in the stock location on the side of the block. 3rd. I installed a new Baldwin fuel filter. 4th. I installed a new barrel type fuel pressure isolator between the vp44 and the gauge. I started and drove the truck after each step of the project, and recorded the p.s.i. readings on the new gauge. (1) Stock Carter lift pump --------------------------------------- 8 1/2 p.s.i. @ idle ----- 3 p.s.i. @ w.o.t. (2) New FASS DDRP ---------------------------------------------20 1/2 p.s.i. @ idle ----- 11 p.s.i. @ w.o.t. (3) Then install new Baldwin fuel filter ------------------------------ 22 p.s.i. @ idle ----- 13 p.s.i. @ w.o.t. (4) Last step: Install new barrel type fuel pressure isolator between vp44 and the gauge --------------- 20 1/2 p.s.i. @ idle ----- 12 p.s.i. @ w.o.t. (5) Interstate driving: 65m.p.h. @ 1750 r.p.m. with cruise control activated ------------------------------ 15 p.s.i. --to-- 17 1/2 p.s.i (6) Normal around the county type of driving ----------------------------------------------------------------- 14 p.s.i. --to-- 20 1/2 p.s.i. No doubt, the 10 p.s.i or so spread between idle and w.o.t. could possibly be contributed to the FASS DDRP being only a 40 g.p.h. pump, and the size of the stock fuel lines. Did I prove anyone right or wrong here? No, not at all. That was never my intention. I know far to little about this particular subject to try and prove anything. Do I think that I have found an adequate answer to my particular needs for my stock motor? Yes, I think so. Only time will tell, and if I have been wrong about my choice, I will say so and report it as such. Either way, I will have no one to blame nor praise, but myself. Thanks again, to all who have participated on this subject. Your time and attention is appreciated........ Hood Latch

10-4 on the baking soda and water will neutralize battery acid. Also makes the best battery terminal cleaner I have ever found. We have been using it in our shops for decades. If you can, try to use warm to hot water. Hood Latch

Live Oak, No, it is not new. I must of had a brain fart or something cause I did'nt think of that, whew!!! I have new filters here, I'll give that a try next. Thanks for the reminder. Hood Latch

Thank you ISX. Yes sir, that's where I got her plumbed up at. Hood Latch

Update: Installed new DiPricol mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Isolator is not here yet, so ran the tube from new banjo bolt (the one that had the shreader valve) directly to the gauge (after bleeding the line first). No leaks so far (that's the only good news). Bad news is that the stock carter lift pump is only making 8 p.s.i. @ idle. Under load (and I mean just pulling up an incline of not much) it dropped to 4 p.s.i. Well boys and girls, there ain't no warm and fuzzy feeling with that kind of pressure. I put her back in the shop and she will stay there until the new lift pump is installed. By the way, that was (banjo bolt with the shreader valve) the correct place to tap in the gauge, is it not? Thanks......Hood Latch

10-4 on the 190* F @ the temp gauge, that is also my understanding. The need to monitor egt, in addition to coolant temp when pulling different loads, is also good counsel. Thanks for the info.......Hood Latch

Understood. Thanks for the comeback. Just to get a little bit of a better handle on the question, what seems to be the optimum temperature gauge range for a 24 valve stock motor that one should like to see, no matter what the time of the year? I am in central Pa. , and we experience the usual cold winters of the northeast. Thanks.........Hood Latch

I notice that both of your winter fronts are a solid design, with no ventilation holes at all. Is that the norm, and if so, why? At what ambient temperature range can you run a solid front like that without concern for over heating? Thanks....Hood Latch

You say that you do not intend to use an isolator in your line. Why is that? I don't mean to imply that you should, I'm curious as to why, because I am getting ready to install a fuel pressure gauge on my 2001 and have wondered myself as to any ill effects that an isolator may cause in giving a false reading at the gauge. I am installing the DiPricol mechanical gauge. I kind of like the idea of the isolator (for it's intended reasons) but only if it will provide accurate readings. Anybody else have thoughts about this? Thanks.....Hood Latch

Thank you sir. Know I have some idea of what is required, as per. G.P.H., for the Bosch requirement. As to the question of what is required for reliable P.S.I. needed, at this time, I also am thinking that if a minimum of 5 P.S.I. under any condition is believed to be enough by some folks, I can see nothing wrong with maintaning a minimum of 10 P.S.I. I (being new to this question) have still not come to any conclusion as to what to think about a maximum P.S.I. before any possible adverse affects to the vp44. I have a better understanding now (thank's to you and others on this forumn) as to why you are in favor of the pusher pumps of at least 95 G.P.H. I can see why you could have a more confident feeling as to the higher G.P.H. flow rate. Again, the Bosch G.P.H. flow rate required, that you have shown here, is welcome knowledge. Thanks.........Hood Latch

Thank you. I understand that the Bosch requirement is for "70% to be returned and 30%" to be burned. I guess what I am trying to establish is wether or not there is conclusive evidence that 40 G.P.H. is in fact under the needed G.P.H. supply rate to burn 30% and return 70% on a stock motor. If 40 G.P.H. is not enough, what would be the minimum G.P.H. number needed for a stock motor. If it sounds like I am being bull headed about this subject, I apologize. I am just trying to understand what the minimum G.P.H. number should be for a stock application. Thanks for your patience......Hood Latch

I am assuming, your point is that: "40 GALLONS PER HOUR" is KNOWN not to be enough flow in order to properly lube and cool the vp44 on a stock motor? I am not asking the question in an argumentative way, I am just trying to learn all I can about required fuel flow and pressure for the vp44 (in order to make it live) on a stock motor. Thank's for the comeback and your patience...........Hood Latch

Mopar Man, Thank's for the come back. I will not deny , that the logic of your thought is SOUND WISDOM. Either way I go, I will report back when the job is done and give my results and thoughts. Thank' again......Hood Latch

Live Oak, Thank's for the come back. A new mechanial pressure gauge will be going in first. Can't know if I am making any improvement if I don't know where I've been. I guess the reason I am sort of leaning toward the fass ddrp is the warranty, and if I understand correctly, it is a gear type pump as opposed to the airtex being a rotary vane type pump. Over the years I have found that there are two different schools of thought on which is the better design. I think, that it depends on the application and desired outcome of the pump. I think, they both have their place and probably in some applications, one could be as good as the other. In this particular application, (oem on the side of the block) I personally believe that a gear type pump has a better chance of longevity. I believe they are perhaps inherently more robust. Maybe I am wrong about this, and if I decide to go with the fass ddrp and I have problems, I will have no one to blame but myself. I have certainly been forwarned. If do install the fass ddrp, and then decide I need to go with something better, I will be looking to install one of the better pumps on the frame close to the tank. I would then mount the fass ddrp on a piece of plywood, plumb it with hose, and wire it for use as a fuel transfer pump to fuel tractors and such. I have a cheap one of these set up now and it is about wore out. Which ever way I go, I will report back with my results. Thanks.......Hood Latch

Some folk's are saying that this pump is fine for a stock motor, and some are saying it is only good for target practice or an expensive paper weight. It is my understanding that it comes with two different springs (to adjust for more pressure if desired) , that it is a relatively easy install in the oem position, and that it is an option to install it down on the frame close to the tank with the required relocation kit. It comes with a four year warranty from the same folks that make the higher end FASS systems. So, for a stock motor, why not use this pump? Thank's for your time and attention............Hood Latch

Gauge and pod is ordered along with new after market oem lift pump. Hope to do the job by next week. I will report back with findings under a new thread something as "stock carter vs. after market oem" . Hood Latch

Wild and Free, Thanks, I appreciate the info. Hood Latch

Anyone know the diamater of the DiProcol gauges? I looked on several different suppliers websites, and even on the manufacture's site and can not find any reference as to the size. I have ordered the gauges, and need to order a steering column pod for the fuel pressure gauge but some pods say they are 2 and a 1/16" and some say 2". Thank's for any feedback............Hood Latch:confused:

Well, maybe now I should be rethinking this project. I was sort of settled on the Airtex at the OEM side of the block location with a big line kit between stock filter housing and vp44 that will allow me to use "tee" fitting for my mechanical pressure gauge. But, I guess I should also have a pre-filter before the Airtex as suggested by Ed, which makes good sense to me. Do I understand correctly that the Airtex (even with a pre-filter) will probably not give me as long a service life of say a Raptor 100? If it will not, then maybe I should be considering going with Raptor. Would the Raptor also require a pre-filter to help insure reliability, or would the built in screen of the Raptor suffice? Again I would like to keep the stock filter/heator as it can get frigid here in my part of the world. Sorry if I seem to be asking a lot of questions about this project, but I really would like to do this one time and end up with a good reliable solution for a stock engine. Any and all comments are appreciated..........Hood Latch

Thank's LiveOak, that is much clearer than mud..Hood Latch

Live Oak, Do I understand correctly that the Vulcan Big Line Kit would : (1) Run a 1/2" rubber line from the tank directly to the Airtex pump which would be installed on the frame close to the fuel tank, (2) Then run a 1/2' rubber line from the Airtex to the inlet side of the stock fuel filter/heater housing, (3) Then run a 1/2" rubber line from the outlet side of fuel filter/heater housing to the vp44, (4) I would install the Vulcan "tee" in the line between the fuel filter housing and the vp44 for the fuel pressure gauge. Sorry if my questions might seem to be a little repetative about this subject, I just like to get all the info I can before I move ahead. Thanks....Hood Latch

I think I have decide on the OEM Airtex at this time. From what I understand, it should provide adequate pressure and allows me to keep the factory fuel filter/heater set up. As commented before, my truck is stock and will probably stay that way. If I decide later that I need more power, I would certainly look to the Air Dog or FASS on the frame close to the tank. But, for now I think the Airtex should suffice. I am going to do the job this coming week and I want to install a fuel pressure gauge at the same time. I sort of have that boiled down to the ISS PRO or the PRICOL, any thoughts about my choices, and the pro's and con's of wether I should use electronic or mechanical. I was thinking that the mechanical might be more accurate and therefore more reliable, but, was wondering about any problems with fuel leaks at the gauge as time go's by. Thank's for your time......Hood Latch