kedlin88

Drove it around town and it never acted up on me. Shut it off and restarted it about 10 times through out the day. Yes, wait to start light comes on instantly No, there are no codes at all. Yes, when it is running i have 17 psi at idle and 15.5/16 at WOT. No, there is no fuel pressure while cranking when it wont start. When it does start, there is fuel pressure while cranking.

I will be driving the truck tomorrow around town, so hopefully it acts up on me so i can see if it is vacuum in the tank. Just a question, how does the vacuum in the tank cause the no fuel pressure while cranking? Also, what is the fix for vacuum? Is it just a new gas tank cap or something deeper? Thanks,

Thanks, next time it acts up with a no start ill try that and see what happens.

Wednesday i drove my truck around all day with no problems. I pulled up to Dollar General about 2 miles from my house, got my stuff and came back out to go home and the truck wouldn't start. It just turned over. Tried multiple times but no start, just keeps turning over. So i called a buddy to come tow me home. I'd say about 10 minutes later as i was waiting on him, i tried to start it again and it fired right up with no problem. So i drove it home and shut it off, started it again with no problems sitting in my drive way. Friday morning it started up with no problems, drove it about 10 miles and came back home. Truck sat for about an hour, I go out to start it up and again, no start. Just keeps turning over. Let it sit about 10 minutes, and it fired right up. I checked codes, and none show up. When i turn the key on, the wait to start light comes on every time and the fuel pump primes. I also noticed, when it doesn't start, the fuel pump doesnt run the 25 seconds like it should after a no start. And i have no fuel pressure while it is cranking over. After it does start, fuel pressure is 17psi at idle and 15.5/16 psi at wot. With no codes, I really don't know where to start. Thanks,

I'm having some brake issues that I would like to get figured out. I believe I already know the answer but I would like some advice. My brake pedal is starting to take a longer then usual time to return. About every other brake, the pedal is just slow to return, I can manually take my foot and pull it back up and it will release the brakes. My vacuum pump was leaking oil, so I bought the seal kit to change it out. While I was in there, I decided to change the power steering pump. The install went great, everything working fine. Then the power steering pump developed a leak at the bottom pressure line that I didn't notice and it ran all the oil out of the pump. After I realized it, it was harder to turn the wheels, so I figured I burnt the pump up running it out of oil. I got another power steering pump since this one was still under warranty. Again the install went good. After I got the new pump installed, is when the brake pedal issues started. I think I burnt up the power booster also when I ran the pump out of oil. When I first push the brake pedal, it almost acts like it is sticking then releases and the brakes work just fine, but the pedal takes a while to return. The brakes stay applied until the pedal is fully up. I can manually pull the pedal up fast and the brakes will release as normal. Any advice? Thanks

What boost pressure should I be running with stock intercooler boots and no head studs? I blow quit a bit of smoke when the EZ is on the highest setting, until the turbo spools up and cleans it out. That's what I wanted to hear on the EGT temps!!! There seems to be a lot of mixed opinions on what a safe EGT is. If I don't have to buy a turbo, I don't want too. Cruising on the interstate at 65mph, I'm at about 1900rpm and 550 EGTs, boost is at 5-6psi. It only gets up that high when the converter is locked and I'm at or higher then mid throttle.

What would be the next step up for a turbo with out spending a bunch of crazy money on one? I have the HX35, which I believe its the stock turbo. Would like something that maybe spools a little faster also. I have RV 275s and an Edge EZ. Going up a grade and getting into the throttle I can see 1100 on my EGTs, and that's with nothing behind it. I have a 1800 lb trailer that I occasionally pull and it got to 1150, and held there for a second or two but that's it. I figured it was time for a little better turbo with the upgrades, especially if ever pull anything heavier. I'm not looking for a powerhouse turbo, just a little cooler EGTs. My EGT Probe is installed Pre-Turbo. What is this HX40 Hybird that I hear about? Thanks,

1/4 turn tighter= perfect!! Thanks mopartechnician! What are the symptoms of it being too tight? Is it normal to have to adjust a little from standard position?(72 inlbs-1 7/8 turn out) Thanks,

Right, they look the same. But the Napa comes with metric thread where the bolt on, verse the autozone and oreilly come with standard thread. So I need to know if the stock bolts are metric or standard thread. Where did you buy yours at MnTom? I think the easiest thing to do is just go buy them. If there not the same thread I'll just order the ones off napa website. Thanks,

I've read about the upgrade you can do with changing out the rear wheel cylinder to a chevy 1 ton. On Michael's article, it says to buy NAPA Part#37337. On the NAPA website, it says its a M10x1 for the mounting bolt size. Well I don't have a NAPA close by, so I crossed it over to Autozone and Oriellys and found the wheel cylinder there. But the Autozone and Oreilly cylinder says it has a 3/8 x 24 thread size. Has anybody done this that know exactly what mounting bolt size they are? Or can I just buy new 3/8 bolts, or will the 3/8th bolt have to much play in the mounting holes on the back plate? Thanks.

Yes they were. I don't know what they were upgraded with but they did say both the sensor and solenoid were upgraded units to hold the line pressure better. I'll try giving it a 1/4 turn tighter and see what it dose. Thanks,

I put a new Certified Transmission in my truck. Its the Road Ripper 2000. It been running and shifting great. I finally put 10,000 miles on it. So I decide to go ahead and drop the pan and change fluid and adjust bands. I did not do a complete flush. Just what came out of the pan. I adjusted the front and rear bands also. After getting it put back together, I took it for a test drive. I noticed that 1 to 2 shift and the 2 to 3 shift is now delayed. When driving it will rev up to about 2400-2500 rpms and hold there for about a second-second and half, then finally shift. It did not shift this high before I did the adjustment. On one of Michaels articles, under general transmission diagnostic, it says a delayed shift could be a front band adjustment. For the repair, it just says adjust front band. For the front band, I went to 72 IN LBS and then backed off 1 7/8 turn. Which way do I adjust the screw to lower the shift point? I checked the fluid and it is spot on the full mark when warm, running and in neutral. I also looked at the shift cable at the throttle bracket. It is dead on center of the pin that the cable hooks too. I know a lot of people say to adjust the cable, but I wouldn't think I should have too since It didn't shift this high before? Thanks,

Lately my truck has been hard to steer at low speeds. I notice it happens more once the truck is at operating temperature. There is no issue with the brakes though. I have checked all ball joints and tie rod ends. They're good and tight. Fluid level is full in the reservoir. I do have some slack in steering box. Steering wheel slack is about 11 to 1 o'clock. I got under the truck and took a look around and found a leak between the vacuum pump and steering reservoir. Where should I start from here? I have heard that some slack in steering box is normal? I would assume my vacuum pump needs rebuilt. How can I diagnose a bad steering pump/reservoir? Are they rebuild able or just need to replace it? Best place to buy a vacuum pump rebuilt kit? Any write up's on the removal and rebuild process? Thanks a bunch.

I found this one on a craigslist ad, it said it came out of a freightliner thought. But you can see the engine mount on the side of the bell housing.

Did anybody read through this post?? I am very curious to see a picture of a FedEx truck with the engine mounts. That theory has got me thinking.....