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Tilt wheel actuator
The tilt wheel on my 2004 3500 is no longer working, it’s stuck in the all the way up position. I have watched a couple videos and know it’s the plastic part on the column that is broken. I can’t find the part anywhere? Can anyone shed some light on this?
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Hard to start 2 codes P2509 & P0191
gudge Than you so much for taking the time to let me know what you have found, I will be buying one of the sensors to carry with me! Just recently my truck started leaking fuel from on top of the tank. Luckily it continued to run and the fuel leak wasn’t to severe as we were on a trip with our fifth wheel. I hate climbing around under my truck, so rather than drop the tank, I pulled the bed off. It was the plastic line where the return from the injection pump hooked up, I ended up installing an Airdog fuel pump and gutted the old fuel pump from the sending canister and used the fuel feed line at the tank for the return. It’s a never ending fight! I am thankful that the Lord gave me the ability to repair stuff! Thanks again for your information!
- No start
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Hard to start 2 codes P2509 & P0191
Thanks MoparMan, I finally figured out that it was the pressure relief valve, I took the return line off at the CP3 and fuel came out, I temporarily blocked it off and it fired right up! Waiting on a new valve.
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Hard to start 2 codes P2509 & P0191
Purchased my 2004.5 3500 a year ago, it has 142,000 miles on the clock, it is stock accept for an Edge EZ. Ran flawlessly until last Sunday, I live in the Phoenix Arizona area so it was like 55 degrees out, the grid heater light came on so I waited to start the truck, it tried to start and failed, I tried again and it started, idled normally and ran great but the check engine light was on. Turned it off at a friends house for little while (10 mins) it started right up, we went to a car show, when we came out it was even harder to start, it ran great all the way home, turned it off and it fired right up. I tried to start it the next day and it would not start at all, finally got it to start today and got the codes read. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
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gearing advice
This is good stuff! I have been thinking about putting in 4:10's and putting on a newer set of OEM wheels (17" or 18"). And thus taller tires. I currently have 3:55 and would like a little more power for the mountains. I have some mild power train upgrades but have gotten gun shy, my best friend had a second gen with Edge Juice with Attitude, he could smoke me on the hills.......but now he is pushing coolant out of the cylinder head! Maybe just install 3:73's and keep stock wheels/tires.
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Safe boost level
It's been a while since I visited the site, to answer the question about the Wicked Wheel, every day flat land performance seems about the same, however we went camping a couple weeks ago, I pull a 30' fifth wheel and a Kawasaki Teryx on a second trailer. We climbed some significant mountains, I really noticed that the boost was hitting 20 PSI and staying up there! I do not have a boost elbow or a boost fooler. I have owned this truck since it was new. Do not recall seeing the boost stay up there like that! Also the EGT's were a little better and it seemed to stay in lock up longer (At least I think it's lock up, right under 50 mph when I floor the go pedal it hits what seems like an passing gear, it's not overdrive or second gear) and was better in the hills. And while I had the turbo out it made replacing the heat exchanger hoses so much easier!
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Safe boost level
Lady's and Gentlemen, I have 2002 Cummins, 108,000 K miles, Superchips programmer, 4" Banks exhaust with the power elbow, Airdog fuel pump and a cold air system. I just installed a Wicked wheel. Purchased a boost elbow. Now for the question.......I have a boost gauge, it hits about 19 at max. Do not want to damage my engine but you know how we are.....I would like to squeeze a little extra out of her. What is a safe boost level? Thank you in advance!
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Can't believe I did this
Victory! Put straps around front axle ran them out under the bumper, picked it up ever so easy with a Case 580K backhoe, friend tugged on the back side with another truck. Bled fuel system and it started right up! So that's where the oil came from! Thanks again for the advice!
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Can't believe I did this
I do have an Airdog pump but it is above the skid plate, no codes, haven't had a chance to try and bleed the fuel system yet, to busy resurrecting the driveway! It is a blessing to have 4.5 acres in the desert but it does take work! Thanks to all
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Can't believe I did this
Once again the people on this forum have proved to be very helpful! This is a great forum, it is refreshing to get advice without all the trash talking! That was the result of A huricane Norbert, 4.5 inces of rain in about 5 hours, that road was a river. I did get it pulled out with a backhoe, fixed the driveway, will look into fuel I bet you all are correct and I am relieved! Thank you all again, will let you know what happens!
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Can't believe I did this
Drove my truck off the end of my drive way, got it stuck and got out to see what I could do. It just cut off and will not start. It did loose a little oil from a cooler line. Any ideas? Is there a extreme angle cut off?
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Heat exchanger delete or not delete that is the question!
The Grainger one looks interesting, my nephew says that a factory one is $1000.00
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Heat exchanger delete or not delete that is the question!
Thank you all very much! I agree with you and really wondered how many ever fail. Thanks again!
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Heat exchanger delete or not delete that is the question!
My nephew has a 2005, the heat exchanger leaked antifreeze into his transmission! He is getting the tranny rebuilt and wants to install a better cooler and delete the heat exchanger ($1000.00 for a new one) thoughts please!