440Rat

pulling a hill or coasting down a hill it was fine, but flat stretches its like it couldnt make up its mind. I'll just learn to live with it.

I run a horizontal boring mill that sends signals between 2 different controls to control axis position. When it works its awesome, but if one control gets lazy its a mess. How does an increase in pony power have an effect on vacuum?

Sounds like the work of an engineer.... guess I'll just learn to live with it.

Not to sound like an idiot, but what does horsepower have to do with how the cruise works?

Anyone else experience boost fluctuation with a smarty catcher level software tune while using cruise control? Saturday I was cruisin at 72mph and the boost gauge would bounce between 2 and 10psi. It was more gradual, like it would catch a gust of wind every 5 or 10 seconds. Made driving with the cruise annoying.

Thanks for the replies guys, I have a 300 rpm lower than stock triple disk torque converter, with billet input shaft. I'm gonna call DAP here in a few and order those injectors.

I'm moving to Eastern Idaho in the very near future and was wanting to upgrade my stock injectors for a little more "I think I can" power, for the Teton mountain range. I talked to a fellow at DAP about some 7x0.0085VCO injectors and he said I would be fine with stock HX35. But if I wanted to upgrade the turbo he suggested a Screaming Eagle 62/68/12 turbo. I've done a few web searches and all hands back his statement that I'd be fine, even running my smarty. For those of you who live in the mountains what are your opinions? I'm open to suggestions, as long as its not BD parts. I don't anticipate towing much over 8000 pounds.

I'll have to pull it in the garage tomorrow after work and see if I can find any breaks in the wire.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the neutral safety switch would control the power to the backup lights? So by unplugging the pigtail should have caused a break in the wire? If not then pulling the fuse would cause a break in the power supply... I'm not an electronics person so I'm clueless here. Key on or off, unplugging and re-plugging in the neutral safety switch, and moving the shifter through all the gears didn't have an effect on turning the lights off. Is there anything else the backup lights are tied into?

Leaving work today my backup lights decided to turn on for the first time since I've owned the truck and not shut off the entire drive home. I unplugged all the wires from the transmission, pulled the fuse for the backup lights and they still remained on, so I just pulled the bulbs out. After a quick interwebs search it looks as if the neutral safety switch is bad, so I got one coming for tomorrow at the parts store. I could see if the switch was bad the lights not coming on in reverse, which I assume was the reason they never worked before. But what would cause them to come on all of a sudden and not go out even after pulling the fuse?

Is the temp sensor the one next to the thermostat housing?

I've had my truck just about a year now and I've only seen it up to operating temp twice, normally it runs 160 to 165. During the winter months I made a cold weather front from a sheet of aluminum that blocked 95% of the radiator and it still only ran 160. Back in May I towed maybe 4500 pounds 750 miles or so round trip average speed was 70 to 75mph and it still only ran 160. About 3 weeks ago I pulled the radiator and power washed all the oil and dirt out of it and installed a new 190 thermostat. I noticed it ran slightly warmer about 170 but its been back around 160 ever since. In less than a week I'm taking a trip out west of the Rockies and would like to see it run hotter than 160 the whole way. I'm out of ideas as to why it wont run any warmer, I replaced all but the heater core hoses, new 190 thermostat and topped it off with all new green coolant mixed 50/50. Short of running a winter front all year anyone have any suggestions?

As if it wasn't bad enough, I received my replacement flex plate today. I was beyond disappointed to see that it was a reworked part that's worse than the original part I bought. Out of the 12 tack welds that hold the starter ring gear on 7 are cracked. I'm at a loss of words to describe just how mad I am. I'll be sending BD pictures and an email first thing tomorrow demanding a full refund, then I'll be buying from another company. Its one thing to buy a used part and have it bad, but to be 750 bucks into 2 brand new flex plates that are both junk is a word I cant say here. Anyway anyone have any experience with the Goerend flex plates?

I called BD back and asked to speak with someone in charge about the quality issue I had, but no one knew who that would be........ The guy they transferred me to was probably just another salesmen. I explained the situation to him and told him because I'm not the John Force of the diesel world I was changed for a replacement, and had to wait another 4 days to receive the part. He simply replied "sorry man" and that was it. He did go on to explain that some time ago they had a batch of 200 or so flex plates that the welds cracked on, and told me I should be reassured now that I'm getting a new one.. I guess I don't understand how 200+ parts with bad welds can make it out the door when you have to slap a SFI cert. sticker on them.. obviously they have zero quality control. He did tell me that if I wanted I could have brought it somewhere to have it tig welded then send them the bill. I guess I fail to see the reasoning behind spending 350 bucks on a part I have to have reworked before I can use it. Anyway to end my rant this will be the first and last BD diesel part I ever buy, and I'll make sure non of my diesel friends here in town buy from them either.

Would you happen to remember where on cummins forum you saw that?