cbrew

sure it will, it will scale repeatably. it will also give you a heads up when the system is gelling up before the motor cooks. I have wondered how many failures can be linked to gelling fuel over stressing the motor

i had about 15k on my AD filter when i spun a new napa filter on this fall and drained the WS, the factory filter that was installed new when i installed the AD had over 20k on it, even tho it should never see any dirt i am noticing more of a psi drop at the IP at high demand

question for you guys with FASS and AD pumps, have anyone ever measured the current draw on the pump while running, I was making a few adjustments on the pump, and other stuff of the truck, I had the multimeter out to measure the ac noise on my truck for chat with the man here, anyways at 20 psi, my AD is only drawing 6.2 amps. it would be interesting to see what others are drawings, and the fact that other gentleman was blowing he fuse,,, more ways then one my fuse is 20 amps,, and i bet one could add a amp meter in the motor feed to get an idea when the motor is over stressed. anyways, just figured i would speak up,,,,

this is only you will see quotes around new on my post, and yes you are correct. DFIS works with one of those shops... DFIS still rebuilds the VE and P7100 pumps in house,

naw, it was not this, its was the typical solder issue that is known for the vp44s during that time frame. (its is documented case of cold solder joins on the board that fail over time) it happened during a very hot set of days. the noise in the electrical would show up in the TC Lockup flip flopping long before it gets bad enough to take out electronics . My lockup is my early warning devise that my battery connections are needing cleaning to tell you the truth, i am surprised everything survived when my ecm decided to allow the regulator go on strike. speaking of ECM, who offers a good replacement?

these guys are local for me, when my vp44 finally crapped out (electrical) i took it into them, after a 30 min chat with the tech, i just bought a "new" pump they had on the shelf. very knowledgeable and found out a couple things about these vp pump, http://www.dfispdx.com/

yes the water separator it per and the "filter" is post, but what level of filtration does the water separator capable of. it it will catch the "big stuff" that can be floating around in the tank so the pump does not see that stuff... thats the only reason i bring it up.

well,, maybe i need to rethink my removal of the factory can, couple questions, where are you sampling the pressure? how much pressure drop are you seeing across the factory filter? I used to see only a 4 to 5 psi drop, but recently i am seeing 8 psi on high demand, figuring the filter is getting more resistive. i was just going to do away with it. anyone even install a large per filter (before lift pump)?

who me? LOL,, im not too worried about drilling and tapping iron, thats the easy part. i may be replacing the manifold after all, I found a crack between three and four. I may end up holding off on the pyro install

but before i can start, i need to get the paint to match the new A piller pod. any insight on the gray color code

that is my thought also, i have machined a lot of iron and unless you are really hogging it, the chips comes off darn near as powder. but that also depends on the grade of iron. I just was not wanting to pop the turbo studs loose known they have been on there a long time,,, not ready for that circus LOL

i have been saying ad and fass have very little difference, the over all designed are so alive its not funny. believe it or not, some have had good success using the carter black diesel pumps, in fact running two in parallel for supplying the higher demand. they are cheap and would be easy to switch out if it crapped out on the road.

Thanks for the ideal

this is one option that crossed my mind, the second was using grease on the tap to capture the chips

Morning All, I finial bit the bullet and picked up a gauge kit (trans, boost and pyro) and other goodies from http://www.vulcanperformance.com/ most of its straight forward, but i have a question about drilling the manifold for the pyro, who has drilled and tapped the hole with out removing the turbo? also, is there a standard paint number for matching the gray trim? thanks (truck is a 99 2500 auto)

ok, that is a different ball of wax, did you look in the bore at the seat, being soft, it most not be a sharp edge.

I have been away on Business and was unable to reply but here is some observations and experiences from manufacturing ball check valves, and yes, this is a spring biased ball check valve. it is common practice after machining the seat, to use a ball, pounce and hammer to create the seat on the valve body, during this process, the ball will have a mark just as it is pictured, it should be discarded and replaced with a new ball, then assembled and tested. i would bet, this ball was not discarded. another note to consider, these pumps that are capable of supplying fuel up to 400 to 600 HP, that said, the ball should never see the seat while running under normal conditions, the ball will float just off the seat as it is maintaining the set pressure, just some thoughts of someone that has machined these type of products

definitely looks repairable, it would not be hard to source new seals and bearings. its ashamed they are not forth coming with parts or a rebuild kit. this is and learning the family history between the two companies is why i picked the Airdog 2 165. so far so good, http://www.pureflowtechnologiesairdog.com/airdog-vs-others/

haha,, it was not a loose packing nut, the rubber packing was breaking down, heck i may even still have the valve in a junk bucket. its just an example using a valve that is not designed for the intended use. that is why i threw it on the table. if the seal was to break down to that point with 20 psi behind it, it would make a mess in short order. this was leaking from 12 " inches of head pressure.

ok,, cool, thanks, the seals our holding up? I ask cause i had a valve like that controlling the #2 diesel to the burner on my model boiler, it started leaking around the stem in about four years of use. EDIT, i will add the firing valve was far from a statically set valve

there is that advantage, question, which needle valve are you using?

i was just reading over the isspro documentation, I can see this being an issue with a mechanical lift pump, after all at idle its pulsing at a rate of 400 pulses a min, i dont see this as much of and issue with the steady supply from a rotary pump. tho i do see the IP oscillations. but its not to the point it will interfere with an accurate pressure reading

hmm interesting, something must be missing here, because adding a simple restriction devise to control spikes does not add up with fluid dynamics. what is need to is an air chamber, (the same reason you see them in house hold plumbing), maybe the extra piping involved to create this arrangement satisfies this require. and maybe the trapped air at the top factory filter housing satisfied this requirement in my case. as everyone knows, fluid is not compressible. so the transmission of an spikes will be seen with out a way to absorbing it. i would be more afraid of getting false readings because of the created restriction. sorry, no disrespect intended,

its funny you comment about the needle valve, when i was chatting with the rep at isspro about the need of a snubber, they looked me funny and said there sending unit does not need anything like that. yes the pressure dances around a psi or two when idling, but i have never seen any spikes what others warned about. any insight on that?

ok, with the AD 2 165 I didn't have to play that ball and spring game. but i did find out real fast that i had to be fast with changing the filters another question, where did you tap for a pressure gauge? I am still routing my fuel through the factory fuel filter housing, even tho the the fuel is filtered before it, after able 18 months, the fuel pressure is dropping a little farther then i like (more so when its below 40 degrees) so i am to the point i need to bypass the factory housing and running the 1/2 line directly to the VP44. but that i will lose my tapping point for the sending unit. I know i can get one of those, I just hate to cut the line. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Push-Lock-Fuel-Pressure-Tee-1-2-p/plt8.htm