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Ed's5.9

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Everything posted by Ed's5.9

  1. I looked into blutop when buzzinhalfdozen recommended him and read what his rebuilds intail I also found a youtube video that displays the internals and functions inside steering gears, this is what made me think it was a repair that's out of my knowledge span due to lack experience and tools. But I had to start a Job on Tuesday and I needed to find a remedy or repair it quick, so I got under the truck to study the situation again and realized that the knock I was hearing seemed louder than what the gearbox was producing when I would move with my hand. I then started to inspect other steering and suspention parts and all parts seemed fine next I got a rubber mallet and started giving steering components light taps so see if I got any noises and found the actual issue ... A loose tierod bolt ! Looks like after I did the steering linkage a few months back things may have settled into place creating a little play. Bolt was only about 1full turn loose once I tightened it up the noise is gone and there is no slop in steering at all. But I do still have a leak to fix which I now have to see if its from the power steering pump or steering gear since steering feels tight again.
  2. Seems pretty simple, is that a cutaway of our steering box ? Also where can I get other internal parts ? All I seem to find are seal kits and I'm thinking there might be more damage than that.
  3. I have been hearing a slight knock when I hit bumps and occasional clunk at full steering lock up, finally got under the truck to check it out and there is a little play in the steering gear shaft, I'm not talking about rotational play, it has linear play and pump is starting to leak fluid ... I have been checking prices and wanted to check here if anyone has any other recommendations asides replacing it and if replacing it is the best option do we have any vendors here or discounts that we can get as members ? I found that DPP (Diesel Power Products) carries them at $389.00 and have an option to differ core charge which means no core charge as long as core is shipped within 30 days and core is not cracked or physically broken. Thank you all for your time.
  4. I ended up buying the factory bolts from cummins, pulled the starter, generously sprayed holes with brake cleaner, hit it with some air and used a small caliper to get confirmed hole depths. Once I had proper depth measurement i proceeded to clean the threads by carefully threading the bolts in, once I started feeling any resistance I would back out spray and clean and then keep going until I got resistance and then rinse and repeat until I got the bolts in all the way to proper depth after performing this process on all 3 bolts I took starter to local rebuild shop for thorough inspection which was a good call because some of the bolts had came lose in the starter from all the rattling. With starter back in proper working order and clean threads with fresh bolts I put everything back together and tightened bolts as close to 37-40ft lbs as my scale certified hands could get it. At this point just for good measure I got a white sharpie paint marker and made straight lines down the side of the bolt heads and on the the housing of the starter of all three bolts to easily identify if bolts start to back out in the future. Its been a couple of weeks now and all line marks are still lined up, so as of now looks like its resolved but I will check periodically once or twice a week and keep a wrench an extra wrench in the truck for the next month or so. Also I learned something that may serve others that have this issue in the future. Visibly from the exterior it looks like only 1 bolt passes through but in reality 2 of them do the other passes through into the flex plate area I didnt confirm if alignment would permit it but it almost looked like if you use too long of a bolt you could possibly drive starter bolt into flex plate (made me feel at ease that I went with factory bolts...) but for others that go with longer bolts you may want to take this into consideration.
  5. Got the truck home and now trying to figure a more proper solution, I found some metal shavings on bolt threads when pulling the starter off to inspect threads so there was some damage to the threads. Looks like I will have to helicoil/timesert the holes or at least 2 out of 3 (noticed one of the threads is a pass through which should allow me to use a longer bolt with a nut to lock it in.) On another note does anyone know if these trucks are suppose to have some sort of starter support bracket ? I didn't see one on there but wasn't sure if it even had one to begin with. Last year I had the starter changed by a local shop, I was in a bit of a jam so I couldn't do it my self and now I'm paying the price ... So now that I have the time to do it my self I want to do it right so any tips or recommendations are welcomed, thank you !
  6. Copy that, thank you Me78569 and Mike !!
  7. no only 1bolt was left and it was lose, also it's not the factory bolt (hex instead of 12pt) so I'm not sure if they backed out because they where not long enough to grab enough thread the shop where I got the starter done must have replaced oem screws. thank you guys for quick answer. Are bolt sizes the same for 2nd gen 2 bolt starters and 3rd gen 3 bolt starters ? I ask because P/N 3903834 is coming up for 94-98 ram 2500.
  8. Does anyone have the bolt specs for the 3 starter bolts on a 2004 Ram 2500 5.9l 24v I have found the part number (04429834) but I need size, thread, pitch and grade to find a quick match at fastener store, thank you !
  9. By the way you are a man of great patience, I could not hold in my hand the part that may resolve an issue in the name of proper diagnosing, God bless!
  10. Im in the middle of a job now but when I'm done I'll look around in my garage for my old FCA that started failing causing idle surge. I'll let you know if I find it. If I do I'll cut it open and post pics..... stay tuned !
  11. +1 I came accross a lot of those incomplete posts as well while researching this topic when having similar fuel issues (extremely frustrating when u have a broken down truck). This is a great contribution to this topic!
  12. +1 I came accross a lot of those incomplete posts as well while researching this topic when having similar fuel issues (extremely frustrating when u have a broken down truck). This is a great contribution to this topic!
  13. My guess is that the fuel system has less time to pressurize and flood the engine in comparison to if you are sitting in the second ingnition position (ACC position?) allowing more time for fuel to circulate the system which is what i beleive the COV is there to prevent. <<-- thats just a wild guess ...lol... so please don't quote me ... unless it works
  14. I have had FCA issues in the past and throughout the 2yr time period of random symptoms and diagnosing it never reached a “No start or Full Shut Down” type of failure. While I was in search for a solution for that issue I did find that the COV (Cascade Overflow Valve) can cause no start situations and can even cause engine to sporadically shut down. Unfortunately this is yet another fuel system component that does not have a proper way to detect failure through DTC but it is one of the least expensive parts to replace if you want to give it a shot.
  15. +1 on checking fuel, you can also disconnect fuel pressure at the CP3 pump by removing the line that goes to your cp3 from fuel filter then placing it into an empty container (I use a empty water gallon) bump the ignition 2 times and check if any fuel is in the gallon if not bump 2 more times if still nothing then fuel is the culprit. If you decide to give this a try you may want to have some crush/copper washers handy for the banjo bolt on cp3.
  16. Got the truck up to the transmission shop and they replaced the existing solenoid with a 98-99 unit that included the steel heat shield and added the BD adapter to make the 98-99 pressure solenoid get along with 04 ECM. Results are amazing so far, the transmission is shifting better than it ever has and regardless of where I am on the throttle the transmission now shifts no matter what! Now for the time test, I will post in a few months to how things are going to see if this was indeed the final solution.
  17. Yeah I noticed that their are clamps out there that I can buy and make it work but from what I have seen the dampers are not the same size the update damper needs to be longer for proper placement. So looks like I will have an extra 3rd gen 5100 steering damper ...
  18. Hello, I will be swaping out my steering linkage soon and will be going with the mopar "upgrade" model that came on the newer trucks. It requires that I replace the pitman arm due to positioning and steering damper due to mounting hardware. My question is, is there some way to adapt my existing damper (3rd gen bilstein5100) so that it mounts on new linkage ? I feel like at some point I came across a post of a way to do that but I can't find anything on it now that I need it, thank you!
  19. Got a call back from Todd at shop today, he gave me a quick summary of the issue and said it would be easier to explain once I'm there and I can see the parts. To my understanding my model truck works better with the older model solenoids (metal housing) but when the system detects the older model solenoid it starts to cause issues because of different chipset. To resolve this issue BD has created some type of harness to fool the truck into thinking it has the newer model solenoid while running the better performing older model. This is what I was able to gather from what he explained but I could have easily misunderstood something which is why he offered to go into more detail once I'm there to visually see what he is talking about. Not sure if I will be able to make it up to his shop this week but I'll keep you all posted.
  20. Spoke to the mechanic at the shop today and he explained to me that they did not change the transducer because it was fine and they rarely have any issues with the heavy duty transducers they build those transmissions with. He also explained that he spoke to his Goerend rep and was told that this is a known issue that they are working on for the 3rd gens that are modded. He explained that there may be some modifications done to the teuck that may be interfering with electrical system causeing the voltage to spike and blow the solonoid. (Im no guru but i think that could be possible) so he is waiting to hear back from goerend with a more stable solution.
  21. Have all Injectors properly inspected ... I replaced the engine on my truck because I bought it at a good price with a blown engine. When I got the new engine and was transferring parts from the old engine to the new short block I was not going to take any chances with the new engine so I sent the old injectors to F1diesel.com and had them clean, inspect and service all 6 injectors I also sent my CP3 to Wicked Diesel which is now MotorsportDiesel.com and had him inspect the CP3 because I found currosion in the fuel rail (does not apply to you). The common rail fuel system is a delicate beast and extremely dangerous to the truck and the person working on it if they do not know what they are doing. Personally I would not recommend for anyone to self teach on how to become a diesel mechanic by starting with the Fuel System on a common rail, just my .02 .
  22. I will give them a call tomorrow and try to get more details in regards to what exactly went bad with the previouse pressure solinoid and what was replaced. Because I honestly dont know if they also replaced the transducer allong with solinoid, I was just really happy that it wasn't anything seriouse and that all it ended up costing me was the drive to their shop to get it fixed
  23. Hello guys and gals, as the title states I have gone through 2 pressure solinoids in the last 2 mos. I had my transmission fully built to handle more power about 4 mos ago, as soon as I got it back I threw in a new smarty touch, it ran great for about 3 mos and then I lost 1st and 2nd gear. Transmission was still under warranty so they checked it and replaced the pressure solinoid, problem solved ...temporarily at least... about a month later I am now having the same issue, no 1st or second gear. I can take it back to them and I'm sure they will replace it again at no cost but I am trying to figure out what could be the root of this repetative issue before going back to the shop and they tell me "bad pressure solinoid" again, swap it out and I'm back a month later continuing with this issue until warranty expires. Any advice would be helpful, thank you.
  24. Check link for radiator comparison between my previouse aftermarket rad vs Napa premium rad i think it is a spectra. https://www.dropbox.com/s/sqadjpv0g3zb6ug/IMG_20150608_141022.jpg?dl=0