Flagman

interesting note. although its not perfect, if you stare farther down the road instead of right in front of your truck, it seems to make a difference. It seems stupid but try it. Mark

thank you so much for your input. I know this isnt a post for lift pumps and I hate to continue to talk about the issue but in all the talk and all the "opinions" I never see any facts about how many times the lift pumps fail when running below 10 psi. In other words, everyone says not to do it but how many times does it actually fail below 10? I know everyone says the VP44 is what is damaged but in multiple posts I read, the high mileage vehicles talk about how many VP44's they change and how many lift pumps. Its usually a dozen pumps and one or two VP44's which tells me the lift pumps arent damaging the VP44??? thots. Mark

Hi all with greater knowledge than I: I pulled the plug on the left side of the firewall, the one with the big bundle of wires coming out by the steering and going to the battery, and inserted my wire for my my new fuel pressure guage. Long story short, I can't get the rubber plug back on the firewall. There is a lip on the firewall and a grove in the plug and I can't get them to "hook" together. It makes the cab a bit noiser. Any thoughts? On another note, my fuel pressure sits at 13 idling and 9.5 WOT. I bought the DDRP by FASS but I think I'll sit tight until it gets worse. The borgeson box didnt solve my wandering problems nor did my caster adjustment but its now liveable. I'm enjoying my truck, it has 65k on it, 2001. Mark

good, Im happy with mine. its not perfect but then its not a mercedes. A note to the Mopar man. I just down loaded the FSM, what a great deal, its worth $120. Anyway, it says right in there fuel psi 10 minimum. Thanks for listening to my questions.Mark

thanks for your thoughts.for what you describe, the borg steering box will make the world of a difference. My problem was that but also a wandering/play feeling in the truck/steering. The borg box helped but the biggest help was moving the caster adjustment to 4+ degrees on each side. It is still not perfect but its much better. My shaft was fine and I didn't change it. Does anyone know how it would improve my situation?Part of whats going on is the design of the truck. We can all change things or we can just buy different trucks.Mark

Hi Wild and Free I think you are on to something. How come with all the talk about this wandering problem, this is the first time Ive ever heard of this? My mechanic put them at 4 degrees which is all the adjustment that could be had without working with the top control arm. He said it we went to far, the steering would wobble more when it hits bumps so he thought 4 a good compromise. I see the improvement now, not perfect but better. It still has a bit of a wander feeling but maybe thats the MO of the truck. thanks for your help. Mark

the shaft is fine and within specs. A previous posted suggested caster adjustment. Next week my alignment man will check that, he thought thats was interesting and worth a go.thanksMark

wow I will definitely try that. How come with this wandering problem, it seems no one has on posts related to wandering has ever mentioned this? thanks again Mark

thank you, Ill start looking

they all check out??

Was hoping to get some insite here. My truck wanders all over as If I was truck. It is amazing I havent been pulled over yet. It makes you tired driving on a trip as you are constantly trying to compensate to keep the truck going straight. Its not like a steering wheel play problem but it acts in a similar way. Today I put the new Borgeson steering box on, no help. I have run the tires at 35, 50 and 60, no better.I have new moog ball joints, and track bar, new tires, alignment. My truck has 60,000 miles. It is a 2001 2500 SLT 4 x 4. It does have the big ARB bumper and large winch. Also, it has new front shocks. Any ideas? Mark

What is DDS? Where do I get the 3.5 turn gear? Is it the entire steering box? Is it Mopar? thank you.

steering is stock, I just replaced the track bar and ball joints with moog parts. Its not lots of play but enough the keep you working when driving.

Howdy I understand there is a screw that will tighten up the play in my steering. Anyone know where and what the proceedure is? It gives me just enough play that driving it is not as relaxing as it should be, im always always all over the road. thanks Mark

thanks mopar man and everyone else for their feedback. The bleeding link is especialy useful. Question: with the schrader test valve instead of the banjo fitting, do we loosen the pin inside of the schader? Does the entire schrader assembly loosen to bleed? I bit of information has made me dangerous. ---------- Post added at 06:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:24 PM ---------- oops, saw your response and asked without reading it thoroughy. thanks, Ill give it a try.

Do I push the shrader valve while the engine is running. Would this be a good way to always purge the system of air? A quick question. Im wanting to try the oil in fuel combo. Is it 2 cycle engine oil or 2 stroke engine oil? thanks again for everything.

thank you so much, this is awesome! MarkFlagstaff, Arizona

thank you for your response. My problem is that as soon as I turn the key, the engine starts, no delay at al?

Hi all more knowledgabe than I: In several circumstances there is talk of bleeding air from lines such as when a fuel filter is replaced, when the fuel pressure guage is installed, etc. My question is: How exacty is this done? I've heard that you turn the key three times. Is that with the clutch depressed to make the engine turn over or just with the key and no engine turn over? In the instructions for hooking up a fuel line to a guage isoator, the manual talkes about running the lift pump until the fuel flows good without air. How do you do this while you are in your truck turning the key, or cranking the engine? Hope the question makes sense. It will be obvious to some Im sure. thanks Mark

so any ideas why it only took 4 gallons?

thank you for your help but Im not sure I still understand. I flushed the block and it ran clear. If there was old coolant down inside, wouldn't it have flushed out?

HowdyMy third post, yee ha. I did my research, made sure I had the correct coolant, followed the procedure and turned the engine on to get vacum to turn heater on. I drained it but when I refilled it, it only took 4 gallons. I was told with refill, it was 5 to 5.5 gallons. Any thoughts? also, some FYI, I had to replace my ball joints, and track bar at 60,000 miles. I put Moogs on so am hoping these will last. MarkFlagstaff, AZ

thanks to all for the responses but what I am really wondering is if I can run tires with different tread depths in four wheel drive without damaging anything. Mark

Hi all I have a 2001.5 2500 4x4, stock with all the extras, etc. For years I have been a tire salesman but I still don't quit grasp the matching tire thing as it pertains to transfer cases. Now I know it is important to match tires on a full time 4x4. I ask because my new to me truck has all the same size tires and brands but because of a previous owner flat, the right front is almost new while the others are 50%. It seems in we drive in 4 wheel drive only on slippery surfaces, then we do it because the slipping road will take care of the binding by slipping the tires but is there added heat building up that makes it hard on the transfer to run with different tread depths? Im not to worried about around the yard but if Im driving on the hard packed snow for 50 miles at 40mph, am I being hard on the transfere? Does anyone have any experience with this, knowledge of the strength of the transfere? Im more interested in facts and first hand experience verses what we have all heard from others and opionions. Thanks MarkFlagstaff, AZ