SASQCH

Mike,What wattage resister are you using? 1/4 watt 1/2 wattI'm planning on setting up 2 dpdt toggles so on the first toggle I can switch fron IAT to other dpdt toggle and then set that up to have 2 resisters so I can have a choice of resistance.

Install was quite simple as I remember it, it splices into the speed signal wires from the transmission and the box mounts in the cab. I got it around 2002 from jc whitney. Ive been quite happy with it. The hardest part (and that isn't hard) is calibrating it to your tires using a GPS and a straight level highway that you can set the truck on cruse control and using a small screw driver adjust the screws until the GPS and speedometer or SG II (if you have one) read the same speed. The tire shop cited liability reasons for not mounting oversize tires, wall mart and Sams got scared by the firestone blowouts a few years back I think. Here is a link to the unit at superlift: http://www.superlift.com/accessories/truspeed.asp Jim

The sticker is the factory recommended size, that don't mean that a larger size won't fit or work well. The speedometer is almost always calibrated to the tire size on the door sticker so if a larger size is put on, there should be a recalibration of the speedometer. As you probably already know the easiest way to check the accuracy of the speedometer calibration to actual is with a GPS. On my truck I have a box from superlift that corrects for tire size and can be micro adjusted for absolute accuracy. It has a toggle for two tire size settings. I have it set for 215 and 235 respectively so when I switch tires (they are all on rims so no mount/dismount required) all I have to do is flip the toggle and the speedometer is re-calibrated.Just as a matter of interest Sam's club tire shop (at least here in Alaska) will not mount any tires of a different size than listed on the factory door sticker.Jim

Yes Mike, I'm sure that the 98.5 DRW (two tires on each end of the rear axle) truck is 215/85/16 from the factory unless the sticker on the door frame and the stamp molded into the tires both are a typo from the factory. I run stock size 215/85/16 in the winter with studs and go to 235/85/16 for summer. Jim

Ya, that should have been 215/85R16/E

Do the math 330 / 25 = 13.2 If your truck is a 98.5 dually the 315/85 16 tires are the stock size. Not sure what the SRW size should be.

Mike, are you replacing the IAT connection with the resistor and just using the IAT to plug the hole in the manifold? How have you hooked it up? Did you put together a special connector for teh IAT wires? I would really like to try this on my truck and see how it behaves in the cold and what kind of mileage I would get. Also whether it affects the stalling when put put in drive it is cold. Jim

There should be a sticker on your battery giving the group size. Battery Council International group size (BCI) specifies a battery's physical dimensions, such as length, width, and height. These groups are determined by the Battery Council International organization.

I've been getting mine (also group 65) from Costco and they have a 100 mo prorated warrenty. The set I just replaced was just 5years old and starting to get a little weak. Took them in and they gave me 40% of the purchase price back. Then I got two new ones and the old ones were the cores (no core charge). By the way when you take them back they don't test them or argue with you, just give you your refund. Jim

Another thought the owner of Advance Diesel had was fuel temperature. He said the hotter the fuel is when it is injected the better it burns. When the outside temp drops the fuel temp in the tank also drops. The cold fuel is less volatile than warm fuel. He also showed me several units designed to use engine coolant to warm the fuel before it goes to the injection pump. This also makes a lot of sense to me as my stalling only happens when the OAT is below about 45 degrees.I'm toying with an idea to put in some sort of heat exchanger using engine coolant and perhaps even a electrical heating element like my OEM fuel filter had. I still have the OEM filter canister intact I may have to look closer at it to see what I can use from it.Advance diesel rebuilds bosch injection pumps just not the VP44 because of the cost of the test bench for them. He said that the electronics failure problem that existed a few years ago really isn't a problem any longer as all rebuilt pumps have had the upgraded electronics module (the module is always replaced) for a number of years now.Jim

Had my edge +80 injectors pop tested today, and they were all the same at 300 bar.I also spent a little time talking to the owner of Advance diesel here in Anchorage about the stalling problem to see if he might have any insight on it.He had several thoughts:1. He ask how old and how many miles were on the vp44. He said that rebuilt vp44 pumps can contribute to stalling and hard start problems because virtually none of the re-builders replace the pump distribution head because it costs them $400 for the part. and that when you get a rebuilt pump the head could have 1K miles on it or 500K miles on it. He went on to state that the re-builders put the pump on a test stand and run it for about an hour and a half going through a series of tests. if it passes the tests it goes out the door. then he went on to say the oil they put through the vp44 for the tests is an oil with high lubricity and is in no way like the fuel the pump will be pumping in the real world. the plungers and other internal parts operate perfectly with the oil but when they get ULSD to pump they don't work as well. If the head is replaced with a new one in the rebuild then everything works as designed, mileage is better, hard starting goes away and stalling virtually disappears.2. He also felt that the stalling could be from transmission fluid pressures being out of specifications and suggested getting the pressures checked to see what was happening when it stalled. He said that some servos could be sticking.3. On fuel mileage: He suggested that lift pump pressures above 10 psi contributed to hard starting and poor fuel mileage. He suggested I adjust the LP to put out 10psi and see what happened to the mileage, he felt that the mileage would go up.I don't buy his theory on the lp fuel pressure and mileage connection. But his other points I think are plausible and should be considered.The other thing he said related to fuel here in Alaska. He said that with the ULSD fuel the refiners here in Alaska (TESORO) are now only making #1 diesel and selling it year around. That way they don't have to bother with blending for temperature changes.I need to do some further inquiries on that issue to believe it.Any of you have any thoughts on these things.Jim

Couple of reasons, you can control the injection timing and duration, turns on the high idle, gives a LOT more low end and adds around 60 hp if memory serves plus several other features including an economy tune. It loads into the ECM so you can use it with almost any other programmer. It changes the fuel mappings in the ECM. Yes you are about right on with the cost. When you put in bigger injectors it just dumps in more fuel all the time because the nozzle holes are bigger, you have no control, it just does it all the time. With a smarty or a programmer you can set what you want in under two minutes without having to open up the motor to change things. If you buy just nozzles for injectors don't forget you need to get them pop tested and balanced anyway and what does that cost? Additionally when you buy injectors they almost always want your old ones back to rebuild and resell, so you have no option other than to buy another set when you figure out you don't like the higher hp ones. My thoughts your money Jim --- Update to the previous post... The HY has a 9cm2 exhaust housing but spools a little faster than a HX that has a 12cm2 housing otherwise it is about the same compressor. There is an aftermarket 14cm2 housing that will give a little cooler exhaust than a 12cm2. The HX35/40 is a HX35 with a HX40 compressor on it, and flows a little more air at lower pressure which will cool the egts a little more. You can use a 35/40 with a 12cm2 or a 14cm2 housing and both will fit the factory down pipe. the 35/40 is about the only turbo upgrade that does not require a down pipe change.

John, I think you would be happier with a HX35 with a 14 cm2 exhaust housing and a smarty to stack with your edge instead of bigger injectors and/or the HX35/40 (mine didn't show me much that I was happier with over the HX35). I saw an increase in mileage when I went from the +80 to the RV275 injectors. And with the setup the only time I see black smoke is if I put on a high smarty tune and the PM3 on 9 for fun, even then it's not bad. After I get the +80s checked and pressure matched at 310 bar I will try them again and see what happens to the mileage. With the 275s, TST PM3, and the smarty I've really got all the power I want or need for the towing and driving I do. I really look for the balance between enough power and mileage not going to the drag strip or pulling on a track. Happy Thanksgiving. Jim

Nothing new on the stalling issue, just living with it for now. Havn't taken the +80 injectors into the diesel place here to test and set them to 310 bar, but will do it sometime soon. As for the turbo: I had a HX35/40 dodgezilla from Jacob on the truck. Put it on last May and made a run to Montana and back and it smoked a lot using a 14 cm2 exhaust housing on it, so I changed the housing to the original 12 cm2 from my HX35 and made another trip to Montana. by the time I got there the turbo would only give 20 psi or so and then it sounded like a 3lb coffee tin with a hand full of gravel being swirled around. I had my HX35 in a box in the bed so I put the HX35 back on with the 14cm2 housing and am back to being able to boost to 42 psi and keep the egts well in line again. (yes, I know to keep it under 35psi) Called Jacob and as per his instructions sent the 35/40 to the mfg. for examination. Just heard yesterday that one of the cir-clips on the bearings wasn't seated properly and was allowing the compressor wheel to contact the housing and oil to go into the exhaust ( thus the smoke). Supposedly they are fixing it and sending it back. Jacob didn't know if there would be a charge to me or not. I certainly hope they cover it as it was their screw-up not mine. I'm not sure that I will put it back on as I'm happy with the HX35 at this point after putting in the RV275 injectors. I haven't updated my sig here because for some reason the site won't let me do it. Some time back I contacted Mopar Man and he said to wait until the finished with some site upgrade or another. But as you can see I still can't change and save my sig. Jim

I went back to the cummins forum where I thought I saw the post, finally found it and I had misread it. He was talking about a hard starting issue not a stalling issue.:banghead: My Bad, that's what sometimes happens when you burn to much midnight oil reading posts. Jim

On another site I came across an individual that is having a stalling problem the same as John and I have.The interesting thing is he states that when he makes his own biodiesel from used cooking oil, his problem goes away. When he puts in ulsd diesel the stalling returns.This kind of supports my position that it is in part fuel related.

One of my trucks is a 93 12valve that had 124K on the odometer when I bought it. That being my first diesel I took it to Cummins for a tuneup. Cummins set the intake to .008 and the exhaust to .017 the truck now has about 190K and is running fine. I tried one time to set the valves back to .010 and .020 but was disappointed at the power and MPG loss (several MPG) so I set them back to .008 and .017. I haven't changed my 98.5 valve clearances from .010 and .020 but I'm tempted to try it. Jim

Couple of questions for you: Does the out side air temp seem to have anything to do with it? In other words does it only seem to stall when it's colder out side or when it's warmer outside. Have you cleaned or replaced the IAT sensor? The information it sends the ECM determines which how much fuel gets added to compensate for cold intake air. Have you checked the connectors to the cam sensor? Your truck don't have a crank sensor so the cam sensor is used to tell the ECM how the truck is running? I'm thinking maybe a bad connection from the sensor. The other thing to consider is maybe the IAT sensor itself has developed a heat sensitive open condition causing the problem. I've seen this happen to the coil on some of the old gas v8 engines that had a single coil and distributor ignition. Just some thoughts on possible causes to your issue. Jim

Yes, it works great. It doesn't control the transmission shift points as some people seem to think, it does control when the TC lockup happens and when the exhaust brake comes on. Great product. --- Update to the previous post... This is true. Whoa, wait a minute here folks. Remember different metals expand and contract at different rates. The transmission case is basically aluminum while the internals are steel and the bell housing is also aluminum. Also remember the expansion and contraction are a percentage of the dimension of the part. What I am getting at is an 18" aluminum case will expand or shrink a lot more than a 1/8" thick piece of steel will at the same temp rise or drop. If the case contracts more than the internals there is less room inside for the parts that did not contract as much. So there could be a net affect that is different than you would think at first glance. With that said, I'm not convinced that the expansion or contraction of the torque converter unit, which i believe is mostly steel, will have that much affect. I think the fluid viscosity between the lockup clutch plates and the converter having to push thicker fluid will have a greater effect than the expansion or contraction of the parts will have. In my case with the stalling issue, when the engine is up to 190F and the TC fluid temp in the pan is 135F and the OAT is below 35F or so, and I shut the truck down for 15 min it will still stall several times when I start it back up. The TC certainly hasn't cooled much in that period of time, the transmission oil hasn't cooled much, the trans case and bell housing hasn't cooled much, the engine is still quite warm, the IAT usually is about 120F because the intake manifold is absorbing heat from the engine. So basically most everything is at least as warm as an 80F day but the truck still stalls. On a 60F day with the truck at 60F from sitting overnight it don't stall. So there has to be other factors contributing to the problem. Fuel I think is a contributing factor. Injector pop pressure???? Jim

Having a background as a tool and die maker and machinist, I've never considered .005 clearance being an interference fit. I've had to hold tolerances an order of magnitude closer (.0005) and that was only considered an interference fit under specific temperature differences in the individual moving parts. But I agree that the multiple disks (being in an oil bath) cause drag on each other, and the higher the viscosity of the fluid the higher the drag. There are converters out there now with five clutch disks. I wonder how much drag they cause. You being in the southern states probably don't experience the effects of below freezing temps all that often but here in Alaska we do for about 7 months a year. That makes the stalling an issue I would like to resolve. I went and looked at the additive site and was interested in reading all the claims of better mileage, more power, longer engine and transmission life, etc. etc. etc. Then I read the msds sheet where it wasn't corrosive to GLASS.:banghead: How much of the transmission is glass.:lmao:The product from what I've read is refined mineral that their magic process has transformed into a different substance. I read marketing hype akin to magnets on the fuel line giving better mileage. I just don't buy it, need to see independent laboratory testing results. But that's just my opinion. Jim

I have a stock SO VP pump with Bosch RV 275 injectors. Have you considered that your stalling problem could be a faulty IAT reporting false intake air temps? Mike, I still cannot update my sig. I get a "BB code font is not allowed." when I try to save the updated sig.

My issue started when I had the OEM APPS. I put in the Timbo APPS and there was no differecce in the stalling problem. I'm quite sure that there are several issues that contribute to the stalling, the primary one being a multi disk low stall converter. The secondary one is larger than stock injectors. The third is fuel with a lower volatility (winter fuel). I don't doubt that there may be multiple other lesser contributors as well. I still suspect that injector pop pressure may be one of the lesser contributing factors. I sent an email off to MADS to see if they may have anything to contribute but they have been unresponsive so far. I was hoping they might be able to provide a new fuel mapping to help eliminate the issue. But, unfortunately they probably won't try anything unless it equates to large $$$. Jim