GD1210

I don't blame you. I have some slight paint work I gotta have done on the bottom of the driver and passenger side doors where the paint has bubbled a little bit. But I don't plan on getting rid of this truck any time soon.On a side note, it' definitely worth paying more from a reputable paint shop for a quality job. I had a '99 F350 for a while that the previous owner had painted sun burst orange. It was a cheap job done by a buddy of his. And while it looked great from 10 feet away, up close you could fine quite a few flaws. There was a paint drip on the corner of the bed about 1 inch long, a bubble on the tail gate and some imperfections around the door handles and windows. They also didn't bother to paint the door jams; they were still black on the inside.:banghead:

If you really like your truck and plan to keep it for several years to come, I wouldn't hesitate biting the bullet. I had an '01 crew cab 7.3l that I sold last year and took it in for a quote for what I thought was fairly minor work; ie: small flaked-off paint chips around the bottom corner of all four windows, some stone chips due to a set of 37 inch Toyos, and small paint chip 1 inch in diameter on the bed, and several small dents on both sides of the roof where the previous owner had a ladder rack installed. Both body shops quoted me in the range of $2,500. A guy that was a friend of a friend and a professional painter offered to paint the whole truck for the same price on his own time in his personal shop. But I ended up passing and sold it instead to buy a Cummins.

Thanks for the info! My truck is still running good and the gauges have remained since tightening the BUS power feed. Everything else is still in check. I appreciate the quick responses everyone!

Thanks, I'll go through and check everything. From just a quick search, I saw some people cleaned/replaced the MAP sensor after getting the 0237 code and it alleviated any problems. Coincidentally, most of those same people were also running an Edge Comp box as well. I'm still making the same amount of boost as before and the truck runs just like normal. I think I'll check all of the connections and then disconnect the Comp box and then disconnect the batteries. Hopefully it is something simple. ---------- Post added at 03:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:45 AM ---------- Well the CEL turned off on it's own and everything is back to normal, I cleared the codes and am no longer having any issues. So now I'm just hoping it stays this way.

Well I have good news and bad news. The good news is I have my gauges back! It turned out to be a loose main bus power feed. When I checked the under hood fuse panel yesterday, I didn't pay too much attention to it. When I looked everything over again today, the bus power feed was very loose; I could turn the screw that clamps it down by hand. Either the screw or the threads in the hole are stripped, as the screw will keep spinning, but I got it tight enough to work for now. I still need to work on a permanent fix though.Now the bad news: After the gauges were back to normal, I noticed the check engine light came on while taking it for a test drive. The truck was running perfectly normal. I came back and checked the codes and got the following:P PCU:P 1694 (Same Code as before)P 1093P ECUP 0237P 1698I then disconnected the batteries to clear the codes. After letting it sit for 15 minutes or so, I reconnected the batteries only to find the CEL still on. So I checked for codes again and this time I got the following:P PCUP 1693P ECUP 0237P 1698So now I don't now which route to take to get the CEL off. The truck is running absolutely flawless. It idles fine and runs smooth. I'm not overly concerned about the CEL but I would like to get it off. Any ideas?

Thanks! I will give that a try and see what happens. Oddly enough, just about all of the very limited amount of info I could find on this problem concluded that after a day or two, the problem just went away. Some people people said it occurred again after 10 months or so, and others said after it went away, it never came back. I also saw an instance where the bolt on the main bus power feed in the under hood fuse panel was loose, and after being tightened, the problem went away. So I'll give all of this a try and hopefully something will work!

Hey everyone, I'm new to this site. I came across it after trying to figure out some issues I've been having with my '01 24v and am hoping someone could provide me with some insight. Now here's the problem:Today I was driving my '01 24v (mods in signature) and everything was perfectly normal. I then shut it off and about two hours later started it up. When I started it up again, the water temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, and tach were all not working. The truck was running and idling perfectly fine and the check engine light did not come on. I did notice that when I turned the key to the start position, the oil pressure and water temperature gauge both twitched, so I know they definitely have power. But just incase, I checked all of the fuses and all were good. I then checked for codes and got a P1694 code, which came up as "Fault In Companion Module." So now I'm beginning to think it's the ECM. I'm really hoping I'm overlooking something that may possibly be faulting the computer. Any ideas or input? Thanks in advance.