hawkeye213

now to the clutch remove the pressure plate and clutch plateThis what the fly wheel looked like not sure if you can see it but the pilot bearing was just disentegrated. Just parts of the cage holding the bearing left. It was at this point I almost killed myself. After I unbolted the flywheel I figured it would be wedged on the shaft pretty tight so I put a screwdriver in between the fly wheel and the housing and gave it a mighty pry. Next thing I know I've got fifty pounds of flywheel coming at my face. It was so loose and I pried so hard. It was just my cat like reflexes that saved me. LOL:lmao: I can laugh about it now but man that was close. Not sure if you can see it but there was some heat checking in the fly wheel I took it to the machine shop and he said not to worry he could get it turned out ? Here is the back of the pressure plate not sure if you can see the what was left of the pilot bearing here is the back of the clutchOk now after further review the bell housing bolts to the tranny from inside the bell housing so the bell housing on the 6 speed must be attached to the tranny before stabbing. I know Mopar when I saw how it bolted from the inside I thought now how in the hell am I gonna manage that shift fork. Well there is a clip that holds the fork end opposite the slave to a post on the bell housing you slide the throw out bearing over the shaft and then push the fork down and the clip on the end opposite the slave down and the clip snaps onto the post and so now all you have to do is worry about stabbing the main shaft thru the pressure plate and splines of the clutch plate. NO holding that fork thru the slave hole trying to manipulate the fork and pushing the tranny forward. At least in theory I guess. The fork is actually pinned almost up against the bell housing. Its secured on one end by the clip and in the middle by the shaft and the throw out bearing so not much play as i see it. :hyper:But will see how it works. Ok here is the rear main seal. I could use some help figuring out how to pull this bad boy out. It doesn't look as if has been leaking. I am big proponent of if it ain't broke don't fix it. But I am here and it's only like $26.00 to buy. Any suggestions would be welcome. Well that's it for the nite. I could use some thoughts on the why the plastic on the slave cylinder stayed and my clutch still worked. I could also use some input on what that shaft is going into the transfer adapter is and how to set it back up correctly and where to get another plastic piece for where that shaft fits into the transfer adapter. Also on how to pull that rear main seal I could use some ideas.Well I am sorry for all the separate replies but it took me awhile to figure out the picture posting thing:lmao: It's kind of like the doing this. Never done it so its on the job training.If there are any other pics you would like to see just let me know. Thanks Rob

you can see the mangled bearing that comes off the main shaft of the tranny and then this is the back of the adapter plate you can see one of the balls from the bearing laying there This is the part I need some help with. When I pulled this cover off there was this smaller shaft closes in the picture with the small washer on a roll pin and from a different angle the small shaft to the upper right of the big gear you can see the pin thru the shaft Well that shaft with the pin fits into the inside of the transfer case adapter here and since I could not see I am not sure exactly what step this thing was on. I truly have no idea what it is or what funtion it serves.:banghead:. Man you just have to laugh to keep from crying but as you can see in the next picture there is a little plastic piece that is kind of chewed up . So I need some help on identifying this so I can find another one LOL:pray: that does not cost $320

drum roll please and guess what I found

now to pull the transfer case adapter

Sorry for the multiple post but for some reason I can only post one pic to a reply if I try multiples my puter quits responding :banghead:Anyway pulled the PTO coversLOL that was funny everything looks good nothing sheared or any teeth missing on the things I can see.In the main case everything looked good thru the PTO covers and sown thru the shift tower.But I aint no tranny guy. Looking thru the back of tranny where the transfer adapter is you can see some chucks of metal but

Ok when I took the shift tower off and I found this If you look closely you can see a big melted glob above the ball joint. It is some kind of metal or plastic retainer clip to hold the shifter to the cup. Called the Dodge house about it the guy said it only comes in the shift tower kit. $320.00. I wont repeat what my reply was. Anyway I called the guy Noey is his name at Standard Transmission and Gear (listed on Mopars manufacturer's list) this guys definitly knows his stuff about these tranny's. I really wished I had bought my new tranny from them. But they are located in Texas and so am I so I would've had to pay the sales tax and they didn't pay the shipping so I saved about $400 (which paid for my clutch). I asked him about the retainer and he said he had some. I gritted my teeth and said how much and he said $1.00 and I said send me 2.

ok not any pics of pulling tranny we didn't have a tranny jack because my GF oh never mind :cookoo:We had three floor jacks and got lucky we didn't get killed. Get a tranny jack DUHOh well moving on got the tranny out. I had replaced the slave cylinder six or nine months ago when my clutch started creeping at a stop. It fixed the problem and my clutch had been working great. So you can imagine my surprise when I pulled the slave cylinder out and saw this. I would have thought the plastic would have broke right ? I have never had a problem shifting.

Getting back from vacation

LOL not very good at the pic thing yet but here we go. Me leaving on vacation

LOL not sure how this auto vs manual got going while I was gone. But hey I just want to get my stock truck back together with a stock nv5600. So ISX you want to see some pics of the big ol' nv5600. Alrighty then I will do a little write up over on my other thread "clutch and tranny". I really am going to need some help figuring some of this out so bring your thinking caps.:smart:Thanks again Rob.

Well I pulled the tranny tonite. I did pull the pto covers and got like 1 quart of tranny fluid. It was a lot thinner than what I had expected. Not thick 90 wt gear oil. The fluid actually looked pretty clean kind of green. There was some light metal flaking but no big chunks of metal or anything in the fluid or on the floor of tranny. I did not notice the big donut magnet ? When I pulled the shift tower off where the ball joint meets the cup there was a plastic or metal round clip that was just completely melted to the ball joint. After I took off the transfer case I looked into the back of the tranny where the differential adapter is and you can see what appears to be a chewed up bearing in there. Need to get a gear puller to remove the adapter. And then can get a better idea of whats in there. Put a pry bar in the shift tower and did manage to get it to break free and can now spin the main front shaft and can see the gears moving but it is rough feeling and sounding . The big gears and synchros I can see seem to be intact. It wasn't a bucket of metal that I expected to see laying in the bottom of the tranny. Will get a better look at everyhting in the morning. Thanks RobI started another thread which on hind sight I probably should not have done but was hoping for more info on how to unistall and install of the tranny and clutch and other things. :banghead: Sorry for being stupid

Ok got the tranny pulled tonite. Man is that thing huge or what. Not really looking forward to putting it back in. Ordered a reman tranny from powersource. They do the upgrade of drilling the case and drilling a hole in the race to allow the lower gear to get more oil. 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty on tranny. They told me to add 2 extra quarts or pints will have to look at my notes. Spoke with Peter and he said the 1470 O would be the clutch I would need so got that ordered today also. Will pull and have my flywheeel resurfaced also. I am going to replace the rear main seal while I am in there also. (anybody done this before, tips or anything). Ok time for stupid questions. Mopar or (anybody else) on your clutch writeup I noticed you put the bell housing (separated it from tranny) and then stabbed the tranny. correct ? Is it the same for the 6 speed ? I also will have to separate the transfer case to change over to the new tranny would you leave it off (less weight) to stab the tranny. Anything anybody has to offer on making stabbing this monster any easier would be greatly appreciated. Also on the slave cylinder I just unbolted will I just bolt it back on or do I need to do anyhting else. If I have missed anything so far please speak up. I can turn a wrench alright but I am far from being a mechanic. Thanks in advance Rob

Will get started on removing the drivelines today. Mopar I was looking at the manufacturers links on your web site and found Standard Transmission and Gear listed. Have you or anybody else here ever done business with them? Found a place out of Memphis called High Gear Transmission also. High Gear had this info THIS IS A STANDARD SHIFT TRANSMISSION, NV5600 6 SPEED, FOR THE DODGE 3500 SERIES DIESEL TRUCKS.WE HAVE THESE IN 2X4 AND 4X4. THESE UNITS ARE REBUILT, UPDATED AND DYNO TESTED. (MY DYNO TESTER COST $80,000. BEFORE YOU BUY A TRANSMISSION FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE, ASK IF THEY HAVE MADE THAT KIND OF INVESTMENT IN THEIR PRODUCTS.) ALL THIS MEANS THEY WILL WORK WELL FOR YOU WHEN YOU GET THEM. WE DO SEVERAL THINGS TO MAKE THESE TRANSMISSIONS LAST LONGER. ASK US ABOUT IT WHEN YOU CALL. listed on the tranny Will give them all a call on Monday. Will a 3500 fit my 2500 ?I just found the link to the transmission write up from the dodge forum http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-cu...rk-nv5600.html that will be very helpful. Nice write up by that guy. I also need a clutch. Found a SBC 1947 OFE at TV diesel for 650.00. Does that sound like the right one for me. I don't do a lot of pulling. Haul a cabover to Montana once a year and occassionally pull a load of firewood. Just a few questions. I notice some clutches come with a fly wheel can I just reuse mine or do I need a new one? Is there anything else you would do while you have this tranny out. Rear main seal ? Any other thoughts or suggestions or tips to make this job any easier would be a appreciated. Thanks Rob

LOL I am not having probs with 5th gear those were all just quotes of other people from other forums with the probs they had with the nv5600 and nv4500. I am not saying any of that is fact. It was just some things I read and it just got me to wondering. I think alot of them were hauling cars or heavy machinery. Some where even switching out the NV tranny's for fullers. I did find the adding an exta quart of tranny fluid interesting and I think they said that dodge had issued at TSB about it. But I agree AH64 something happened and the tranny just got to hot. Thanks to everyone for your help.Rob

Well I made it home about 5:30 this morning. My friend Mikel and his wife Kayla came and got us with his dad's trailer and we loaded it up and drove home. Man it's nice to have friends who you can count on in when you get in a bind. Anyway have been looking around on the net for tranny's and found these guys http://www.bestrebuilttransmissions.com/ for this 3319.00. Has a 3 year or 100,000 mile warranty. Or the guy on craigslist http://waco.craigslist.org/pts/1821185449.html 2200.00 one year warranty. Just wondering about the the price difference. Is the 2 extra years worth a 1000.00? Anybody know of another good rebuild place. While I was searching the net I came across several interesting items in different forums and was wondering what ya'll think about them. After reading these I got to thinking and looking back at what happened to me. I had just put a cabover camper on the truck for the trip. It weighs about 1700 lbs? When the truck broke I had been driving for about 5 hours @ 70mph mostly in sixth gear.The terrain was up and down but nothing really steep that I had to shift out of 6th gear. When it broke and I got out and looked underneath the truck there was some thin fluid leaking from above the tranny like the brake fluid for the hydraulic clutch. But I also noticed the tar or whatever the underside of the truck cab is coated with was just melting off (liquified) and hitting the ground and then returning to its tarry state. I remember thinking man that tranny is smoking hot. I had not had any probs with this tranny at all. It shifted just fine before this. After thinking about this I really believe the heat buildup had alot to do with the failure. I would welcome any thoughts or opinions on this. I did check the fluid levels on everything before I left on the trip. Looking back I wish I had changed all the fluids in the tranny and differentials. I read in another forum somewhere that the sixth gear in the nv5600 and the fifth gear on the nv4500 OD gears sit out of the fluid in the tranny and our only lubricated or cooled by splashing or lapping up of the fluid onto the gear. I am not stating this as a fact but just adding that I had read this. I would welcome any thoughts or opinions on this. "I've just rebuilt my NV5600 (295K) and since have had 3 OD gear failures, last one lasted 2 days and my Ram is now in the shade until I can come up with a OEM parts source Seems parts are now coming from India and are NOT the quality the OEM parts." "Guys.. I really think I have this Dodge transmission figured out. I blew my nv4500 5th gear once and then again under warranty.. Since then I have decided that the over drive gear in these trucks is NOT what you should be pulling with.. the only strong gear in the NV 4500 or 5600 for that matter is the 1 to 1 ratio gear (4th in the 4500 and 5the 5600). Its direct drive.. so you aren't rattling the gears.. My fuel mileage is actually a little better and the truck runs much stronger up hills now. Granted I do not have a 4.10 rear end... so I am not sure if that messes things up for you guys or not.. When I brought my trans to the 2nd Aamco repair shop they guy said "you aren't pulling anything in 5th are you?".. Boy did I feel stupid. He cleaned up the mess, replaced 5th again.. we put it in 4th and havent looked back.. Okay, its only been 10k or so... but it makes perfect sense when you look at how the trans is layed out. Take a look at how the over drive gear is connected to the motor.. it goes thru an intermediate gear.. not good in this case.. in the case of the NV4500.. look at the specs.. its designed for 23,000lbs roughly.. I know all you guys are pulling more than that.. you cant BS a BS'er If my trans fails running in 4th I'll repost.. I'll also be out of business.. I have decided it.. if it goes I am shutting it down. And I MAY install a medium duty trans.. but I WON'T ever run a NV 4500 or 5600 again.. $3k to rebuild.. screw that. OUCH that hurt man." "worst part is the manufacturer went under and there are NO, ZERO, ZIP, new NV5600's left. only rebuilt units, and even those run about $3k. also its starting to get hard to find parts for them. Also, for those who've never read about it...overfill the NV5600 by about a quart. there were many reports that when running alot of miles/towing heavy loads the stock capacity level was not enough oil to cool the bearings...thus causing bearing failures. since then i think even dodge put out the TSB to overfill the 5600 by a quart to add extra cooling and lubing for the bearings" "there are aluminum cooler add-ons that bolt in between the PTO cover plates and the transmission case. with one on each side, you get a lot more cooling ability and 2 quarts of fluid capacity." "I heard this too and have since added a quart of Redline MTL through the shifter boot. I'm kind of pissed because the 5600 was supposed to be the cat's ___. It shifts like a damn dumptruck, so you would think it would be a little heavier duty than your average truck transmission." Sorry for the long post. Thanks Rob

ok update The guy here in albuquerque came back at 7150.00 new clutch, remanufactured tranny by dodge that has 3 yr 100,000 mile warranty. Can use the warranty at any dodge dealership on the tranny.I said thanks but no. Now plan B get me and GF and truck home from albuquerque and deal with it when I get home. I am stupid about this tranny so just a couple of questions. The guy in albuquerque said he could get a remanufactured by Dodge out of denver from the dodge house with the above warranty. I haven't called the dodge house but does that sound right ? If I order it from the guy in Waco is there any specific thing I need to tell him other make model year 4 wheel drive that I might not now about. How about the clutch any preferences as to what might be a could one. Thanks to everyone for your help I really appreciate it. I know poop happens but ya got to just deal with it. Mopar is there a write up for the clutch?Thanks Rob

Thanks guiness. checked out the waco craigslist. It is a rebuild shop. $2250 + tax with exchange and free shipping both ways in Texas.12 month warranty. Would you feel better about a rebuild than a used one coming out of used truck?Thanks Rob

ok sorry to keep bugging everybody. Just took a hot shower and had some other thoughts. Ok was going 70mph forward down the highway, tranny posssibly blows up, the truck now is stuck in reverse, this can't be good. I am wondering what else I might need to have looked at. Rear differential ? The transfer case? front differential? If it is blown up what will a tranny place do. Rebuild it ? If so is this like a one day job or 2, 3, 4, 5. Then I wonder about the warranty work if needed. I'll be 4hrs away from my warranty. The truck has 100,000 miles while I am in there I should have new clutch put in right ? Anything else you would have them do. Stock clutch or what. rear main seal. Any ideas on a ball park for new clutch and complete rebuild. The clutch I could do myself if I was at home but the tranny is way over my head. I thought I would call a shop in the morning and get a ball park from them was just looking for some Ideas from ya'll on what I should tell them or what I might expect to hear as a quote from him.thanks again for your help Rob

I know just trying to figure out what to do. I am only 4 hrs from home.a) get home and get a trailer and haul it back b) call a tranny shop here in town and hope I don't get hosed and move on. c) rent a car and leave the truck and carry on my vacation and pick it up on the way home If it is trashed I just wonder how much time and money it would take to fix itThanks Rob

2002 dodge ho 6 speed stock I am on my way to montana from amarillo,texas and I am outside albuquerque. I set the cruise and am going about 70 mph down the highway. I start to notice the the truck starts to feel like it is surging. It is pretty hilly up and down and i think it is just the cruise adjusting and then all of the sudden the tranny just feels like the clutch just let go or the tranny locked up. It just starts to decelerate rapidly and just feels like the it is lurching like it does when your in 1st gear when you pull away. I push the clutch in and it just keeps jumping around. I get it pulled over on the side of the road. I get out and notice some fluid coming off the tranny. It is not thick tranny fluid but thin almost like the brake fluid for the hydraulics. It seems to be coming from on top of the tranny. I can see where the hydraulic slave goes for the clutch and no fluid there. The hole unit all the way up to the reservoir is dry and the reservoir is still full. I cannot shift the transmission at all. It feels like it is in nuetral but cannot shift anyway at all. I pushed the clutch in and started the truck and slowly let the clutch out and it started to go back like it is in reverse and it just sounds like every thing is teinging around in the tranny. It sounds so bad I just know the tranny is just trashed. The clutch seems to be working. Any thoughts. Thanks Rob

Thanks Mopar appreciate the info. My friend called GOECM and they told him what they had fixed on it before. Said they put it on their tuner before they sent it and it checked out. He said they were very cool about everything and for him to send it back and they would check it out again. He said they had cleared all the codes before sending it back. So like you said the codes we got the ECM is bad. Mike my friend said he checked all the grounds already. So he is sending the ECM back and hopefully we can get this thing back on the road next week. Thanks so much for your help.Rob

Finally got my FP gauge installed correctly. Had been using the isolator but I could never get it to work right or for very long. Now I am direct to the gauge. 18.5 @ idle 16 @ wot. Stupid questions. If I start to notice a drop in pressure do you just pull over and shut it down? I think I read it takes 14 to open the overflow on the IP to cool the IP. So less than 14 you pull over and shut it down ? I know that sounds dumb but now that I have the FP just want to know what it is trying to tell me to do. If your LP went out completely the reading would be 0 correct ? You shouldn't be getting a reading from the IP sucking the fuel correct ? Thanks Rob

I could really use some help. Back on 3-11-10. My friends truck a 2002 Dodge 2500 HO turbo diesel 2wd completely stock took a dump. Would start but under acceleration it would just dead pedal. pulled him home and the temp gauge was bouncing all over the place and the cruise light would blink on and off. He thought it was the IP and LP so he ordered the IP and a Fass DDRP LP. We installed it and it made no difference at all. I know we should have pulled the codes first but we didn't:banghead:. So we pulled the codesPCU p0122, p0500, p1693.ECU p0121, p0230, p1689, p0217, p1488, p0575, p0562, po237 I did some searching and found a post by mopar on 5-29-2009 that said Quote:Pretty simple really... P0121, P0122, or P0123 error codes are present with a dead pedal. A failing APPS always throws a code where a failing VP44 might throw a code and might not... I told my friend and since we had 2 of those codes (p0122, p0121) he ordered an APPS from timbo the next day. Later that day on my own post about this problem mopar wrote Don't bother with the APPS... Look at your codes... You got a mess of low volt codes that are not making sense...ECM is on the way out... I've seen this before... My friend decided to try the APPS first and it didn't make a difference:banghead:. So then he sent his ecm off to GOECM.com to be rebuilt. He got it back today and installed it and the truck runs exactly the same:banghead:.Now we are really puzzled:cookoo:. His dad had a code reader and they cleared the codes before installing the APPS. I had him pull the codes again tonight after installing the rebuilt ECM and this is what he got. pcu p0123, p1694, p1693ecu p0575,p0562, p1488, p0117, p0342, p0112, p0606, p1295Some of these codes are different that the original ones we got. Once again low voltage everywhere. 0606 ECM failure. We are not sure what to do next ? Mopar please do not take this post as a bash at you. I just did some searching at diesel garage and here and picked out pieces of your posts without taking all the info into consideration. We should have pulled the codes before the IP and LP replacement.(we would have seen the low voltages everywhere) We are ignorant. I should have waited before telling my friend it was the APPS (even though we had 2 of the codes for the APPS we had a bunch of low voltage codes pointing at the ECM) We are stupid. Now having the ecm rebuilt and still not working. We are puzzled. I still think we can fix this ourselves with a little help from ya'll. Hopefully someone can point us in the right direction and we can get his truck back on the road. Thank YouRob