leathermaneod

Alright so I've asked Richard all these questions and basically the answer is do not run anything other than a strainer, at most, before the fuel boss if you want them to honor a warranty claim, should you have one. Richard said he personally would not do it. He said one bad batch of fuel could plug the prefilter enough to ruin the pump. So if I want extra filtration my only option is to replace the stock canister or do extra plumbing. I think for now I'll just keep running the Baldwin pf7977's.

Normally they would not be separable, however, if one were to just get the filter heads like @Buzzinhalfdozen recomended, I would think you could put one before the Fuel Boss for large micron and water separation, and one after for fine filtering. That is a great idea and would be the perfect solution! I'll email Richard and ask him about that. Do you have any recommendations for a large micron/water separator that might be free flowing enough for the fuel boss? It would have to be 24 mic or larger I'd say, because that's what that strainer is....

I have been emailing back and forth with Richard this morning. He said that I definitely should not run a dual filter or anything like it before the fuel boss. He said filtration needs to be between the FB and vp. He initially recomended just running their MK10 kit, but then I explained that I am looking for a lower micron rating and asked if there would be any issues with the extra plumbing to run tank to FB, to frame rail filters to vp, and he said no, that they have many customers running filters up in the bed with no issues. So that answers the question, either make a dual setup and mount to replace the factor one, if it could fit in there. Or run lines back to a frame mounted filter. As far as the clogging of the bypass valve, I believe it usually only happens right after the system has been installed and there is dirt being cleaned out of the lines. However, I did put one of these right in front of my bypass valve to prevent any issues. I just change it at oil changes. http://m.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FF5079

Sorry I forgot to clarify that. Richard told me the FB will handle anything thrown at it in terms of dirt. I'm not trying to protect the FB, I was looking for a way to add better filtration and water separation for the vp.

lol no problem. Yeah that is one thing that sucks about the Fuel Boss.....thats why I was originally thinking of something that could mount in place of, or near the factory fuel filter. Something like this would work well, except for the fact that it would crowd that area even more http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=MK20305-APPS that is kind of my general idea though. That or plumbing all the way back under the truck again...

That would be awesome if I can do that. I'm going to double check with Rich, but I think he said the Fuel Boss wouldn't like having to pull through any restrictive filters....

Do you guys know what the backspace and offset numbers are for the stock alloy wheels?

Only issue with that is, if I remember correctly, Richard at GDP, told me not to run a filter before the Fuel Boss to prevent cavitation. I sent an email to him asking for his opinion on this though, so we'll see what he says. Worst case, I'd have to mount it on the frame like you said, and run lines from the tank to the fuel boss, then back to the filter, then up to the engine. Lots of plumbing, but that may be what it takes if I want extra filters....I'll know more once richard replies. Any particular reason you like the Vulcan over the Glacier?

I'm thinking about making a bracket to mount one of the universal 2 micron filter/water separators in place of the stock filter canister. Not sure if something like this would fit there. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VP-MAX-Dual-Remote-Filter-Kit-p/drff.htm or this http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=FW1220-TFK

Thanks Mike! I looked all morning, but I couldn't find anyone addressing this issue lol

oh ok, good luck with the job! will you do the joints yourself? or get them pressed by a shop?

Hey guys, Just a quick question here. Can the Edge comp be turned off and left hooked up and not hurt anything? Like when you go through adjusting the sub level and the lights go off before returning to the main level? if you just leave it off is that ok? Just curious because I don't like leaving it on when I take the truck in to get inspected and all....

@JAG1do you have any recommendations on what filter to add to the stock canister? and how to mount it?

oh ok gotcha! no nvm on the pics. When you said the donaldson filters, i thought you meant different filter heads too. forgot you had an airdog. why is your truck on stands?

@dripley could you post some pics of how you have your filters set up if you get a chance? Ive always wanted to add something better to mine, but thats one bad thing about the Fuel Boss. Its kinda hard to find room between it and the VP....I run the baldwin PF7977 filters because they are 5 micron I believe(please correct me if I'm wrong), but ive always wanted something better...

I'm also hoping it will just melt if any of that excess loctite comes off of there....hopefully it gets hot enough inside to melt that stuff and have it just burn up....

yep. I'm just hoping what you can see is actually up in the threads and isnt just there from getting it on my fingers when putting the nut on....i don't think it is, for once I actually dont remember making too big of a mess lol, but I'm still paranoid. I do know though, that in at least one spot the loctite ran down enough to drip off the end of the stud, so if nothing else hopefully that is in there good enough.

@notlimah, thanks for pointing me to that thread! Definitely looks like I could easily make it work even with my stock alloy wheels! Really glad I found a good alternative because I was really not wanting to spend all that money on the synergy and I don't think my stock tie rods ends are gona last much longer. Another Question though, why were guys saying you can't rebuild the tie rod ends on that setup? Do they mean you can't replace them? You have to by a hole new tie rod setup when they wear out?

Thanks for the vote of confidence Mike. I'm just really bummed that I was so blind and didn't see there was a better way to get that nut on further while I was doing it. The whole time I felt like I was missing something and then I showed my buddy this morning, first thing he says,"why didn't you just run the nut down to the end of the threads so it wouldn't turn?" And I felt like this lol. And I didn't get as much loctite in there as I wanted because the nut didn't go on as far. Hopefully it's enough. It's definitely on there better than the last one was, so that's good at least. My aftermarket intake horn is such a pain too. It has those studs instead of bolts which in this case is kinda good, but the nuts on the right are almost impossible to get to. When I do get another head, I'll be getting a different intake horn, injectors, and maybe studs. And maybe if I'm rich at the time I'll get a new exhaust manifold too

hey guys, So I have sort of a new problem. I finally got all my stuff and loctited the nut on the stud. Problem is I was totally not thinking when I did it and this is what I ended up with. I had in my head that I had to use two nuts jammed together, like in the second pic, to tighten the nut on the bottom becuase thats what I had to do to take the old nut off. Never occured to me that I could just screw the nut all the way on to the end of the threads . Well becasue I was trying to tighten the locknut with the two nuts jammed together, thats all the tighter I could get it(first pic). I never thought the two nuts could turn on the stud if they were tight together. Well apparently they can when you get the nut on the other end tight enough and a top lock nut gets pretty tight. I had planned to have the nut on another two threads, thats why the loctite is up so high. That caused me to also not get as much loctite as I wanted. Gravity still pulled it down the stud in at least one spot, but its kinda thick stuff. So my dilema is, do I try to get this back apart and do it over, or leave it be? My concern is that I won't be able to get it apart now due to the loctite and having to use the two nuts to loosen it, and that ill just be weakening it by trying to get it apart....I know I know, get a new head. I cant right now so I have to do the next best thing.

Since we're in the topic, what exactly is the difference between a double cardan joint and a cv joint?

I will thank you! Btw, for what its worth, I just looked at 2 different MSDS for 2 cycle oils. They have two ingredients listed and neither is kero.

lol ok thanks. I did a quick google search before starting, but didn't see anything. Must have missed that.

I am not convinced either, but thats why I started this :-) what is "hfrr"?

Hi all, I was wondering if we could start a good fuel additive thread, something that covers 2 stroke in depth as well as other conventional, off the shelf stuff. Also, what adding cetane does, and how sulfur factors in and parts per million and emulsifiers an all. I bring this up because I was part of a recent thread on another forum where a guy was asking for opinions on Howe's Diesel Treat. I commented that I would just stick with 2 stroke unless you are somewhere really cold, then I would add PS white bottle too, in the appropriate amount of course. Anyway someone chimed in claiming that 2 stroke is mostly just kerosene, and that he had the MSDS to prove it. Same person also said they would use a little gasoline as an antigel. I've seen an MSDS for 2 stroke and I'm pretty sure there was no kerosene on it. I guess what I'm saying is, I'd just like to learn a lot more about fuel and additives and I know there are some guys out there who know all there is to know and I'd like to pick their brains! Thanks to anyone who chimes in!