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  1. digidoggie18


  2. Ok, so I did hubs yesterday and redid brakes. I filed the pad mounting places like you said and added a very small amount of lube where the pad mounts and rests on those clips. I also checked my power steering and you guys hit the nail right on the head. My power steering is in dire need of replacement. With that being said, I mistakenly pumped brakes with the caliper off. Instead of pushing it back to the reservoir I pried on the poisons while opening the bleeder, I got absolutely no air out and was careful on keeping air from getting in. Since all that the pedal is nice and stiff and the pedal Moonves about 1/4" before engaging and braking power is much higher... The pedal still returns slow but maybe it's just me (3seconds to return from being pushed all the way down). Later this week I will be doing a power steering flush as well, thank you guys for the huge amount of knowledge that you were able to give me! One other thing... Are all dodge ram 2500 service manuals the same? I.e. If I purchase one for 2000-2001 will most stuff be the same for diesel models or do they differ between gas and diesel?
  3. I didn't force them in though, this side went in extremely smooth, I replaced the guides this morning. I think the clips holding them in place broke and that was what caused the issue, hopefully it is rectified once she goes back together
  4. Yes, these came apart like butter, my rust bucket is tough normally I didn't even have to tap on the hubs the drivers unbolted and feel right out
  5. I solely put copper antiseize on all bolts, hardware, etc...for that reason, hooefully replacing that hardware will be ok, I just don't know why it would have shaved that sliding bracket though as everything went together stupid smooth
  6. My sliders were replaced during the last job but they still looked awkward so I'll replace those again when I do wheel bearings hopefully soon. Withthat being said, does anyone have a link to a service manual four a 2001 24v? What causes this? Improper install or bad sliders? This was the questionable side.. Also, what's the easiest way to do hubs?
  7. Where I thought I should be. With that being said when the shop did my drums they were in fact seized, it took them a day to get it all apart
  8. Thank you for this, I did not adjust my drums but I do know it's easy to botch the job even though I don't botch from brake jobs. I will review this later when outta warm, I think you are correct though, my power steering gas been whining more especially when cold, I will do that and flush the system. One update though, the brakes are much much more stiff but still not horribly strong, the pedal now for some reason only travels about a half inch to engage which is nice but that still doesn't put me in the dash like mopar man stated. How easy should it be to stop the truck? Also what is the process I need to follow with the power steering?
  9. I had 0 bubbles when bleeding. The second and third time.. Prior to that it was blurred by a shop with a vacuum bleeder. When I push my pedal I need to press it hard as well.. And even then it still doesn't stop on a dime Is it possible the booster pushrod needs adjustment? Or something like that or maybe the spring is weak? I'd like to work with you guys to get a solid diagnosis before just swapping anything since most of this system has already been replaced minus the master cylinder
  10. The system has been billed 3 times by me, 1 by a professional I also did not open the system in any way when doing pads
  11. I have a 2001 ram 5.9 Cummins 24v, in 2016 I had both from calipers replaced along with rotors and pads, I had a fluid flush, I replaced my booster on my own, the drums and shoes were replaced as well. I noticed upon replacing pads due to grinding that on my passenger side the inner pad was worn based while the others were in decent shape. It feels as if the truck has a rough time stopping too. Upon replacement of the booster, the abs and brake light kept coming on for a week even though everything was working as it should. Eventually those lights went away. When I replaced pads the brakes were pumped hard then started and pumped again to ensure i had contact before test driving on the test drive they still feel like it's hard to stop the truck and the pedal return is fairly slow. What could be causing this? Shoes are great and adjusted properly, the rotors and drums show very little wear even with the grinding caught when it was i did not gouge the rotor much, the rotor was resurfaced and is well within spec on the thicker end.
  12. Perfect, that's exactly what I was looking for... Just making sure I didn't have a relief stuck in the even if possibly another issue... Thanks for the help, you're the man haha
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