Sghcky13

so from what you have heard Mike, are the Nations a sure fire fix? (forgive the formality, I've read a lot of your posts on CF and your site and have a tremendous amount of respect for your opinion) wow! just checked out Nations page and you weren't kidding...I could but a few new alt and rebuild kits for some of the prices...

so is it worth it to start with one of these kits? Do I need to wait and see the results of the nations alt? Is buying a nations alt an option? sorry for all the questions, but this is my work/dd and the majority of my driving is between 45-60mph...so lock up issues are a real problem.

Ok, quick question...I have read quite a bit of this thread, and have also gone through about 3 alternators from the box parts store (2 bosch and 1 denso). There is no local alt shop so I am left to the rebuild option. I see their are two kits (larry B and a wholesaler). so...the question...are these kits the sure fire fix for the alternator? (are the good quality parts?) I am seriously sick of this problem and do not want to have to take the alt off my truck again...

Hey guys. So I am on my third alternator from Oreilly's...fortunately they have just been swapping them out on warranty when I explain the problem. I am looking into a local shop that can build the diodes for me, but would be interested in the contact info or nudge in the right direction for purchase through sources you guys have had success with (LarryB etc.) The odd part about this last time the problem came up is that it had only been about two months since I swapped it, and when I popped the hood to pull the fuse both battery terminals were covered in corrosion, and after pulling the fuse, the lock up issue continued to happen. I came home that day, put new connectors on all for terminals, cleaned everything really good, and ran the truck with no alt. fuse, and problem disappeared. Is there possibly something else going on in addition to the alternator? A coworker suggested an open ground might be aiding in the failing alt. I really don't understand vehicle electrical systems, so any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.

I actually found an Auto Zone that could test it properly (i think). Oreilly said they couldnt help, and looked at me like i had seven heads...the guy at Auto Zone actually has a 3rd gen 2500 and used their battery/alternator tester which showed on the screen that the diodes "passed". I guess part of my question is what happened to cause it to malfunction more after pulling a load (and even once i was unloaded continuing to malfunction ) and then go away totally when the alternator was unplugged and plugged back in (fuse and leads)? Also, if alternator is junk, which one is the best to get to eliminate the potential of bad diodes out of the box?

Hey guys, new to the site and the diesel world in general. I have a 99 24v and have experienced the lockup issues described. After reading extensively on this thread I pulled the alternator fuse and truck worked great. Replaced the alternator (Oreilly) and the problem went away for about 3 weeks. While hauling a small dump trailer with approx 1 ton of gravel I began to have some lockup issues while climbing a hill, but the problem went away for the rest of the day. That same evening with a load in the bed of the truck (no trailer) the TC went bananas. Disconnected the alt fuse and plug on back of alt, drove truck with no problems. Reconnected everything, and problem was gone. Drove to a local parts store where they had a good tester and my alternator checked out good (diodes included). Sooo, I am wondering if anyone has any insight as to why this happened while pulling a load? And what has happened to cause it to go away? Also, took the truck to a local shop when the problem first came up and they hooked it to a computer. They told me the computer on the truck (ECM?) had gone bad, so they replaced it. No problems were solved...