Cumminz

Ill give that a try thanks. I havent messed with the star wheel yet. I turned the "smoke screw" but didnt do anything so i adjusted it back because i DONT want to smoke. Just barely haze under wot.

Yes all the way forward and all the way back and no difference.

I have 150 hp injectors, timing set to 16 degrees, 191 dvs, i ground the fuel plate to #0, set the housing and plate all the way forward and i cant even get a haze of smoke (just to see if i am getting more fuel). Ive tried adjusting smoke screw and nothing i do is making a difference. What could be wrong? I just want to be able to tune this thing right.

The key came with the new pump..

Thats my fault the first time in the videos when it was hot wired, it was already pretty warmed up. It was BETTER but not 100%. This time i let it sit over night and hot wired it first thing in the morning, ran like garbage and much more noticeable than when warmed up. Whatever it is, its hot and cold is my point. Sorry for the confusion. I think this is something electrical. Everything mechanical is checking out. Compression good, injectors new are good (even my old ones are good), new o-rings on connecting tubes, no air in system (using clear hose method), lift pump has good psi and connected to batteries (and using relay), sensors are all working, no codes.

The volt meter was low because my batteries were going bad. I picked up two new batteries. All is well in that area. but the problem still continues on. I have done the hot wire test when cold and hot and the problem still exists. My compression test seems to show i don't have a bad ring. I WILL NOT GIVE UP! im pretty stubborn.

If i have good fuel pressure and no air in the system and it fires right up (no leaks in return). Could this issue be my new vp44? When i put it in drive it shakes and feels like it may die. I have been in denial about my pump but everything else has been checking out like you guys have said...Could the pump be faulty without throwing a code? would that be likely?

This is noticeable to everyones ears. "Is that a rod knock?" "Do you have a bad cam?" "Is your truck misfiring?"

Well my valve lash is good. but the fluctuating rpms doesn't sound good for the valve train...or the crank for that matter.

@TFaoro That does sound like my truck when in high idle. Hard to tell but does yours make that weird noise about every 1 second in high idle too?

I have swapped injectors out with my other ones...no change. The injectors in it have only a couple hundred miles. I did a compression test. They were all above 450 psi. Is that good? im sure it is...I have disconnected the alternator fuse and drove around. No difference. A/C noise is less than .01 volts. What circuits from the PCM should i look for? Yes the VP is "Not" the issue but it runs off the computer. When it is hot wired and not connected to the ecm it runs fine. It is a good pump but p pumping will eliminate my wiring issue...wherever it is. I don't own a lab scope to check all these connections. It has a 12v power and a good ground from ecm to the pump and connections look fine but something is causing it to run this way. And there is a HUGE lack of diagnostics for the other pump wires....Im feel very knowledgeable about how these 24 valves work but it theres no real way to test the signals going into the pump from the ecm (i don't think).

It's skipping not missing. Just the 12 valve across the street that is smoother than a baby's butt...(Lucky basterd!) but i have seen 24 valves where the rpms only fluctuate a FEW rpms with a digital tach. Well the 24 valves do occasionally have a fluctuation in rpms for sampling reasons but they SHOULD stay within 10 rpms or so while idling (unless grids are cycling). Its supposed to use the cam sensor to keep the rpms relatively steady. And the shaking is a result of that rpm fluctuation. THIS IS NOT NORMAL. It shakes even while driving when throttle is steady with fluctuating rpms. If i can't find the cause im gonna be saving up for a p pump. Im not dealing with this anymore. It makes this almost undriveable.

I have the timbos apps and was not running 2 cycle oil here. But in the first video it ran much smoother and quieter.

Does it make your exhaust sound like ****, makes your truck shake when holding the throttle? It never used to do this.

The first video shows the pump hot wired. Second video is with it plugged in. The check engine light was from hot wiring. No codes. IMG_1127.m4v IMG_1128.m4v The differences in exhaust aren't real noticeable in the videos but the rpms are the important thing. I wanted to tighten the terminals on the vp44 plug and ecm plug but it seems that you can't take either apart to get to the terminals.

Yeah...about that....The file size is too big. Ill have to compress the files somehow. There are only a couple minutes long. Standby...lol

I have an update. I redid the "hot wire" test and it ran smooth like it should. Plugged the vp44 back in and started having rpm fluctuations. I got it on video. So this is sounding like a wiring issue. where should i look now?!!! This is so frustrating. Does this sound like a wiring issue? I literally cleaned every ground on the truck i could find. Clean all the big plugs. what circuits should i look for? Could the CAN bus cause this? Where is that even at? Oh and I plugged in a good used ECM and it was the same. So fuel and computer is good.

I HAVE A QUESTION? So "hot wiring" the vp44 just gives the fuel solenoid power correct? It is still a mechanical pump right? how does it idle? Where is the connection between injection pump and cam sensor? (I don't have a crank sensor so...not really relevant anyway? So When it is hot wired and it still idles bad, am i looking at a bad cam sensor circuit or something mechanical somewhere that is still causing this? When I was on the phone with a cummins buddy he said to change cam sensor (which i did with new oem cummins one) which didn't help. I still see the fluctuations in rpms throughout rpm range...and sounds terrible through exhaust. But my exhaust is too loud to capture the roughness on camera with my phone.

I installed the vp44. It was happening before that. I had the a year before it started having a skip at idle and progressively getting worse. I installed the damper, and no change to the symptoms.

Going on about a year now. Seems like its getting worse and worse. Before vp44 and Shortly after i bought the truck lol (About a year). Don't drive it too often. I might try messing with the connecting tubes again.

I picked up my truck today. Still not fixed.

I would like to keep my promise and solve this problem of mine. It won't exactly be solved until tomorrow but updated at least. Like I said previously I have taken it to Dodge twice, and Cummins once and nothing was done to try to diagnose my truck. My brother and my dad took there trucks to Calibrated Power Solutions in Marengo, IL. for tuning and turbos for there trucks. I took my truck there to see what they can do for my truck. Two hours later they told me the issue was a terminal in the wiring harness that wasn't connecting and should solve my issue. They were going to have a technician take it home overnight to verify it is gone. Waiting for the final results now. When I go to pick it up, Im going to ask which terminal was screwed up and how they found it. Very interesting issue....

Its unhooked now. Does it hooked up or not.

well I installed the new airdog lift pump because of dry rotting lines from my old fass system. So all lines are new as well as connections. No factory fuel filter. Completely bypassed because of airdog. I did the clear hose method just before the vp44 routed up to the windshield. No air at all. I have a new vp44 from midwest fuel injection. Did the hot wire test that is all good. Runs the same with the hot wire test. It has been acting up since the old fass system too so...I think the lift pump isn't sucking air and it has the sump kit so that helps. The dealership performed the "turn off each cylinder" test and each cylinder performed normal rpm drop. If this helps anything. But this also makes me think that fuel system (which is pretty much all upgraded) may not be the issue. But don't know. Acts the same no matter what fuel level. As well as #1 or #2 diesel, cold or warmed up.

The injectors probably have about 300 miles on them. Tried swapping in the old one for shits & giggles and same thing. I can understand if it had just a slight lope but it sounds terrible like skipping at idle. Never used to do this. Compression on cylinders were all above 450. I tried turning on the accessories and even unplugged alternator all together with no difference. Even the guys that couldn't figure it out even said it isn't right, they just don't know what it is. You can see the tach fluctuating at idle, accelerating, coasting to a stop (real evident). When moving the throttle slowly in park under hood, you can hear and see the engine start shaking.