015point9

Going to change diff fluid this weekend. I'm thinking about getting on of those fancy diff covers. I don't mind the price but only if upgrade is worth it. Anybody know what normal temps are with a OEM diff cover compared to the aftermarket alum covers with "cooling" fins? My Dana 70 is usually towing a 8k to 9k trailer most of the time. Even with the fancy type I would still pull cover when changing fluid, just to get a visual of the insides. And I would still use "dino" oil. In your opinion is the fancy type are worth it?

Op here...Yes indeed strange. I was hesitant posting, don't want everyone to think I'm completely nuts. I'm mounting an airdog so messing around in that area when I use a paper towel, I just toss it in bed of pick up when done with it. So all diesel soaked paper towels are in pick up bed right above the gas cap area. Other paper towels are sprinkled thru out rest of bed. This crazy squirrel goes right by other paper towels and only carries away the ones that had diesel on them. The squirrel gives them a smell and carries away the ones that have been used maybe 2 days ago, so they are dried up a bit, but still smell like diesel. Today only took 2. Yesterday he took over 4. I know sounds crazy

I’ve learned to have some paper towels handy anytime I’m working under the hood. I’m in process of re-installing my Airdog fuel pump, going thru lots of diesel soaked paper towels. After wiping up some diesel I toss them in pick up bed. Instead of making a trip to trash can every time. I have a squirrel that doesn't touch regular paper towels and only carts away the ones with diesel on them. He climbs up a tree where his nest is and then comes down the tree empty. He must be insulating his nest to get that fine aroma of diesel. I have no idea why, just think it is sort of odd?

Thanks...my gut feeling is...if its not broken don't fix it. Here is Airdog's "trouble shooting" guide that led me to the question. http://www.pureflowairdog.com/troubleshooting.php#dodge-pump Hard Starts with Dodge 1998.5-2002 w/VP44 Injection Pump Did the truck start good before the PureFlow® product was installed? Has your injection pump seen more than 100,000 miles? Have you injection pump tested at your Dodge dealership or authorized shop. Before the PureFlow® product was installed, were you seeing symptoms of a dying lift pump? What were the pressures you were seeing? Below 10 psi will damage a VP44. Do the hard starts occur more often when warm conditions are present? If you experienced any of the above problems. Start the vehicle immediately after entering the key into the ignition. Do not wait for the wait to start light to go out. It is important that your ECM re-flashings are up to date. Contact your local dealer for the most recent re-flash.

I'm still messing around doing my re-install of an airdog system (since Sept) I printed out the directions to have them with me in the carport. When sipping on a cup of coffee, I noticed under "trouble shooting" section Airdog says... "It is important that your ECM re-flashings are up to date. Contact your local dealer for the most recent re-flash". I've never had a re-flash, I never been to the dealer since I owned it in 2005. Had a FASS pump put in late 2006 and a new water pump and T-stat put in couple years ago. Is this a re-flash a CYA type statement or should I take this seriously? If so, is this re-flash a dealer item or what? Thanks

Thanks for posting...I read so many posts of people that have this or that and I really don't know which is best for long term performance and at same time not tearing up my equipment. That's why I like this site compared to other sites that seem to revolve around speed more so than keeping what you have running good. I think I'll have "auto Upgrade list" mostly covered by late this summer. Going to have trans worked on. The other list I have only gauges covered. Also need new exhaust, probably with in next 2 years. Thanks

Rookie post even though we've own this thing since 2005. Often herd there are no dumb questions, well here is one Our Trailer and stuff in bed of pick up is about 12,000 pds loaded. 2001 truck is stock with 47re with a 4:10 rear end. When going up long mountain grades, I make it point to not go over 1150-1200 on my pyro. On long upgrades I usually end up falling in line with the big trucks and just chug up to the top about the same speed. But not unusual to be passed by other people pulling about the same weight, sometimes like I'm standing still. I understand newer equipment has bigger horsepower. I don't care if I'm not the first one to the top of hill or not. But wonder where some guys, some in 2nd gens get their power from? I do admit getting a good run at bottom of 65 0r 70mph hill helps a bit. I usually have O/D on at start of hill and then take it out of O/D as speed and rpm starts to fall off. I’ve tried the “drive with O/D off when pulling weight”. Sure get tired of the noise by the end of day, running 2100 or 2200 rpm all day long. For MPG folks…We can get around 12 mpg with O/D on and with O/D off at 2100 or 2200 all day long MPG goes down to about 9. Not that I worry about MPG that much, but sure do hate the noise all day long. Might seem laughable to some…I’m a retired truck driver. Was a lot easier going up long upgrades in big trucks with a manual. Just find a hole to keep near top of power curve, drop a hole if rpm’s falling off to much. So I’m wondering if I shouldn’t push it a bit harder? Or maybe I should ask… How do you tackle mountain grades or what other power do I need.

How much did it help EGT's. My stock muffler on 2001 is beginning to show its age. Next couple years will be replacing. Muffler is rusting out on bottom. What set up would EGT's in check and not increase noise level? Horse power wise I'm completely stock, usually towing 10K trailer. Thanks

Yes, dabbed bit of oil on seal before install. Maybe I should use diesel instead of oil? Thinking about it further the failure might of been alum stock that the o ring screws against. Always had to tighten up quit a bit, or it would leak if not really tight. Mopar1973Man posting of those filters make me wonder. One would think by now in 2017 buying clean fuel wouldn't be a problem. And that condensation would be the only worry. Talking with the small gas engine shop about a carb on a generator, he said Honda has a CYA thing and says gas is only good for 6 months before it starts going bad. Don't know fact or not.

The way Mopar1973Man is filtering his it fuel with two filters the same size, it would be interesting to see what second filter picked up that first filter missed. If he is using different brands of filters. Probably pretty hard to do without equipment? The only problem I've ever had with filter was one time the rubber seal at top cracked and leaked fuel. Filter was a fleet guard used on a FASS pump.

Op here...Thanks for info. I made a mistake. Filter I do have is 3 micron. Ordered 4 from last time I ordered from Vulcan. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Water-Separator-AirDog-Fuel-Preporator-p/ff100-2.htm 1. So whatever I drained from my tank should be OK after filtering it thru a 3 micron? 2. "returning back to 10 micron filters and just run double stacked" Terminology question....by doubled stacked I assume you mean filtering thru a ten micron filter twice? 3. "make sure you are running the proper blend to keep it from waxing" What temps do you guys start making sure you have the proper blend to keep it from waxing in the cold?

I drained my fuel from my fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets because I needed to fix leaky sump and mount Airdog pump in better spot. When I got ready to pure fuel back in noticed rather large beads of whatever (water, dirt, etc) mixed in with fuel. Finding micron sizing stuff on line, I ran fuel thru coffee filters (supposed to be around 20 microns). The fuel still didn’t look good to me. I then removed Airdog pump from truck and hung it in the fence and with long wires and a remote 12 volt switch and have been running fuel thru the Airdog filters. Airdog says one if its filters is 2 micron. I believe that filter is the one with a water drain valve. Fuel now looks “clean” to me. I was going to throw away about 25 gallons just to be 100% safe. But local auto part store recycle tank is full and has been for over 2 weeks. Wife gets upset with me when I pure out along fence. And surprising fuel doesn’t control weeds as much as I thought it would. So…Is there anything less than 2 micron is size that could mess up injectors or VP pump or anywhere else in fuel system?

Thanks...I see pic's that most people have fuel gauge connection close to VP. I'm not in love with that location but not discounting it altogether. Going to do some playing around with pressure readings. Right now I have 22 psi with Airdog hanging on my fence testing a few things.

Thanks. Makes perfect since, not to mention 90 degree fitting probably has less restriction anyway.

While looking at different fuel line set ups noticed a "ported" banjo bolt for the VP 44. I'm in process of installing 1/2 inch line from tank to VP44 via Airdog 100. In my head (maybe incorrectly) that a bigger fuel line equals more fuel available. My truck is all stock except for fuel line. I'm all for more volume and less restriction to get fuel from point A to point B. (Question) But is going from a (port) hole of .137 of an inch to .185 of an inch really worth it for a stock set up?

(Confusing) Parts book says I don't have a roll over ball. But service manual says I do have one. Service manual says roll over ball is on top of fuel module. But actually holding the fuel module in my hand, I think the roll over ball is inside near bottom near "inlet" filter. Or at least something that looks like pic in service manual is near bottom of fuel module. It is white and about size of ping pong ball. Do roll over balls go bad? If so I would like to replace now as fuel tank is out of truck right now. BUT!!!! and here is part I don't understand...the fuel is being sucked by a oversize fuel line added in 2005, and the line that has roll over ball is now being used as return line to put fuel from FASS/Airdog pump. So what good does a roll over ball do anyway? I must be missing something? Your thoughts, please.

OK, finally made contact with him (retired Cummins engineer) and asked him your question, about he would feel writing articles. He wasn’t even nice about it. He said “no way”. He said he used to post some agriculture or tractor site. But doesn’t post anymore for personal reasons. Said he cut his teeth at Cummins working with Case (tractor?) partnership years ago. And then when Dodge came around (late 80’s) he transferred into that. Said when he started an engineer with a “metallurgist” background could about write their own ticket. But by the time he retired Electric engineer was the way to go.

Week before Thanksgiving my brother in law was going to work at 3:30 in morning. He gets rear ended by a drunk. Last week insurance company totals it. 1997 Ford ¾ ton with 165,000 miles on a 7.3 Excellent shape except one small dent. Received a check for $9,470. Now he is trying to replace what he had. Nothing he has looked even comes close. He is thinking he has to come up in model years, around 2010 or so. Which means spending a lot more money than what insurance company gave him. One would think that some type of separate insurance would be available to cover older vehicles. Some type of policy to make up difference when you have to upgrade thru no fault of your own. He’s a Ford fan. He won’t touch a GM product and local RAM dealer not known for far dealing in his opinion. So he’s in process of trying to figure out which Fords around 2010 and newer has the least problems. I know if my 2001 was totaled. I would be very upset. Seems to me that we are getting short end of stick.

Thanks...I didn't think of that. Found it on-line. Strange that instruction book that came in box with pump doesn't have it, but on-line instructions do. 20 Amp is correct. http://pureflowairdog.com/manuals/A5SPBD253.pdf page 18 Thanks for hint

I’m re-doing a poor install of an Airdog2 model DF-100. I want to make sure I have right size of fuse. Instructions does not say what size of fuse. Anybody know what size of fuse? Thanks

Good thing I haven’t finished installing my pressure gauge yet. Might have another job for it. My heater core might be leaking in wives 06 CRV. I get a wiff of anti freeze when temp gauge starts to move. I’m thinking that T-stat is also opening about the same time. I don’t see any wet floor or any wetness on hose clamps, but do smell it. Trying to confirm if I have leak or not. I think a valid test would be to plug off heater core and put about 5 psi into heater core and if no leaks, pressure should not leak out. Do you think that is valid test? Any other test I could do? Thanks

Jokra... I'm real new here also, and fuel problems is what lead me to this site also. My fuel problem happened 1,200 miles from home at a RV park. Couldn't work on it myself and really didn't know about fuel problems 2nd gens at the time anyway. Had a FASS pump that was over 10 years old and 90,000 miles that broke. My theory after breaking down miles from home was a system that was easy to change out and get me somewhere with a mechanic I was happy with. I was trying to find some type of duel pump system that I would not be stranded or captive to a mechanic. Someone on here mentioned a Carter back up pump. Eric at Vulcan makes the set up the is easy to change on the road. Same fittings, same wiring connections etc. Carter pump is under my seat in gallon plastic bag ready to go just in case. If I get stranded somewhere, just unplug airdog pump and plug in carter pump. The only thing I don't like about the set up is the AN fittings. I have my dash out right now to install pressure gauge and clean up the wiring. So I'm going to replace AN fittings with regular brass fittings. Maybe me getting to old, but disconnecting those AN fittings in freezing weather, not a easy task for me. Vulcan Performance Products Ph: 360-263-6037 Eric should answer phone. Ask about Carter pump as back up pump that comes with everything you need to change on the road. Or as Eric explains, people that are 200 miles from anything and their pump quits. I think he only makes his set up for Airdog? But wouldn't be hard to make for FASS pump in my opinion. If doing it all over again I would go with FASS pump just because of customer service and my old FASS lasted over 10 years. FASS would take different wiring harness I think, but not hard to make another wiring harness. I like the idea of a back up pump. You don't know where your old system will fall apart at or who you have to fix it. If you can't fix it yourself. Even if you know how to fix. Next time at RV park ask about dropping your fuel tank and watch their faces Hence a back up just in case.

I'm thinking about putting one in. Nothing fancy, just basic fuel/water separator. Any recommendations on model/type and micron size?

Thanks... I've been thinking about vehicle electronics for some time. Mrs Santa gave me a Fluke 117 for Christmas. Fluke has free online classes and I'm about 1/4 the way thru the measurement class. Surprisingly my old harbor freight meter was accurate for voltage. Thanks for tip on sensors, and as a side bonus, I'll also learn where they are located

To cold at least for me. I have no idea how some of you turn bolts when so cold. Right now my temp is 29 degrees. Some of you might think 29 is a heat wave compared to your temps. In the mean time, till it warms up….After reading lots on this site, seems to me after the (2nd gen) fuel system that the electric system is talked about a lot. But I know very little about vehicle electronics. We couldn't snowbird this year because of medical reasons. At least I could keep warm inside by the learning something. Just trying to keep my mind active and maybe learn something new. Any recommendations for free online vehicle electronics? Thanks