015point9

About the bigger bolts holes...Just on incoming line or both sides (incoming and return) Thanks

Thanks, didn't know that. Who has them with larger boring? Geno's, Vulcan??? Thanks again One washer on each side of bolt? I thought maybe a copper washer like brakes have. Thanks

OP here...No specific questions at this time. My stock trans (47re) works good at this time but going to replace probably just after tax season next year. Noticed you a sponsor and somewhat local and was checking you out on here. What is your warranty and what would you recommend for someone for a re-build. I'm stock, other than a BD torque lock because of their exhaust brake. Sometimes I tow around an RV, Currently have deep dish pan and hills don't raise temp. But I know my trans is getting old. I've had bands tightened every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Very little junk in bottom of pan when changing fluid. I would rather have it re-built before I'm stuck at someplace I don't know. Hinse asking questions about you, getting feed back. So far you look great. But right now the only thing wrong is everytime I lift the hood I see the trans dip stick, it has popped up about an inch.

Beginners question... The bolt that holds the fuel line to the VP44. What is the torque when I put it back in? The bolt must be hollow, I don’t want to do any damage. Any thing else I need to know? Thanks

Op here... Here is one from 2013 , haven't looked at any other postings yet. I always hated being the first one to try out the parachute. Seems to be good. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/washington/847194-anyone-done-business-tranny-shop-newman-lake-wa.html

OP here... Thank you folks

I've gathered parts I need for low fuel pressure gauge. Some parts from Geno's, some Vulcan, some local store. Have a mixed metals in fittings... I have NPT, alum and brass metals. Some with flare some without. Thread locker question... Teflon tape? pipe dope? Removable thread locker? What is your favorite thread locker.

New member here. I notice Dynamic Transmission is one of the sponsors of this forum. I see hardly any posts about peoples experience working with them. Anybody here have one of their transmissions? How do you like it? Any info good or bad would be appreciated.

Op here....Sorry folks...I mis-typed. 1/8 inch is what I should of typed. Mopar man...I'm a new member...Couldn't get the "donate page" to work about week ago. And want to chip in something and have couple other questions. Time permitting at your end please PM me when convenient. Thanks

Anybody have a good memory? Someone posted a pic of a brake airline they used for their low fuel pressure gauge. I can't find it now. The pic had name printed on the hose. I would like to track some down. Anybody remember the post or know what line to use? At my NAPA I asked for 1/4 inch airbrake line and they wanted to sell me what's listed below. After looking up what they sell I don't want to use it. It's not even brake line and I've hit the "bold" to show where I think it is lacking. Or if anybody's used this, is it good enough? Maybe just me but I was thinking there must be something better. Thanks for any response. https://www.haldex.com/en/North-America/search/?q=d1060401 Reinforced Nylon Tubing Part no. D1060401 Air Dryer/Air Line > Air Line Tubing > Nylon Tubing (Bulk) > Reinforced Nylon Tubing > D1060401 Reinforced Nylon Tubing Meets Type B SAE J844 Specifications and FMVSS No. 106 Regulations Temperature Range: -40° F to +200° F Maximum Working Pressure: 150 PSI Not made for fuel

Thanks for reply.... Basically I want something "bullet proof" that I'll never have to mess with again. FASS system broke down (11 years old) in Yuma, AZ. We're from Seattle, long ways from home. Not able to drop fuel tank at RV campground, had to tow it to mechanic(s) They didn't do that hot of job, so I'm re-doing some things in fuel line. Example, I removed a piece of schedule 40 PVC pipe they used as extension of fuel line) etc. Don't ever want to be in the situation again. Being I'm putting in a low fuel pressure gauge (messing with fuel line anyways) thought I would put in shut off valves. Shut off valves might be helpful if anything else falls apart in fuel line or change filters, etc. Here is what I have planed (but don't have much experience working on this truck, even though I've owned it since 2005 most people have more info than I do on this thing.) Starting at sump... install a shut off valve, then install a "T". On blank side of "T" install a "ball valve" so I could drain fuel if somebody needed a couple gallons. Or by mistake, if ever fill up with gas again, I could drain the tank. (Happened only once)Then continue to Airdog pump. Then another shut off just after Airdog pump. Then just before VP44, a port for low fuel pressure gauge and test port. (Those line pinchers, not sure if I'd like them... (You could just use vice grips) When I used to change my FASS filters I just unscrewed them one at a time, put on new filter then back off 1 or 2 turns, then bump key to turn pump on. When a little bit of fuel drips out of top of filter (all air is displaced with fuel) tighten filter and start motor. Then do the same to other filter. My old FASS system, for some reason the rubber ring used to get caught and had to remember to make sure it was out before putting in new filter. And not unusual that I would have to tighten fuel filter about every 3,000 miles. But so far was more happy with FASS than Airdog. Time will tell.)

(So confused right now. I can't remember if I asked this question or not. Memory and fuel system not good. I'm going to install shut off valves and install elec fuel pressure gauge. I have an Airdog pump system. Fuel exits the tank by a sump at bottom of the fuel tank then goes to Airdog pump then directly to VP 44. If pump and water filter are below the level of fuel in the tank... I can just open valve on water filter and tank should just drain (slowly) by gravity, right? Thinking about locations of shut off valves... just after sump drain and just after Airdog pump. Does that sound good or is there something better? Thanks

Finished my seat cushion today. Feels good on backside, but haven't gone anywhere yet. I would like to pass on a helpful hint. concerning the above link to PDF file from Geno's garage. I briefly looked it and took out my seat cushion. Only 4 bolts, one at each corner. But when putting it back in learned big difference between "seat cushion" and "seat". Putting the "seat cushion" back in was a pain because the metal tag where it bolts screw into are on 2 pivot points. In the instructions...step one where they say unbolt the seat, Geno's is talking about the actual seat itself and not the "seat cushion" With the whole seat out I just could of turned it upside down and put seat cushion bolts back in. But true to form I did it the hard way. Lesson learned.....If I'd follow Geno's PDF step by step the job would of probably gone lots easier.. Thanks

My 01 sometimes worked sometimes didn't. I still have to fix and have put it off...BUT what I read in manual is first step. "ONE WINDOW INOPERATIVE... The window glass must be free to slide up and down for the power window motor to function properly. If the glass is not free to move up and down, the motor will overload and trip the integral circuit breaker. To determine if the glass is free, disconnect the regulator plate from the glass. Then slide the window up and down by hand. There is an alternate method to check if the glass is free. Position the glass between the up and down stops. Then, shake the glass in the door. Check that the glass can be moved slightly from side to side, front to rear, and up and down. Then check that the glass is not bound tight in the tracks. If the glass is free, proceed with the diagnosis ...

Op here...Thanks for the info and replies. I sure wish I'd known of those fuel pressure gauges with warning lights before I bought one last month . Also found this one. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/41373/10002/-1 Also found a DYI alarm that sounded "OK" but would need to be louder for my ears. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jUeYSAGV4Y (MOD...Sorry for posting actual vid, tried to remove and can't figure out how. I just wanted to a post link to it.) Thanks

Anybody know of any low fuel pressure light that lights up around 12 psi or little bit higher? I have an Airdog fuel pump. Already have an BD and Airdog low pressure light , but they light up when fuel pressure is much to low in my opinion. In process of installing a fuel pressure gauge but would also like light that goes off around 12 psi or little bit more. Thanks

Just wondering...Did this happen recently? Is this your Dynamic Transmission?

Just me, a back yard type guy (with stock everything, except an Airdog), and that doesn't know much compared to some on here......I'm happy with my final result of pulling wives 8,500 pound trailer (and after talking with a retired Cummins engineer) was to put on deep dish pan. Deep dish pan...has drain bung for draining and aids in cooling more than I thought it would. But I still have to take it off to adjust trans bands and more often than I thought. Was pointed out to me that 30,000 mile trans band adjustment was not good enough. Now I adjust every 15,000. Anyways now I only get those temps from very slow driving (no headwind getting to cooler) and only twice when driving around western US . Both days in triple digit temps and steep upgrades and start and stop (construction stop and go) traffic. On mine (47re) when hot I put into neutral in giving it some RPM's. Both times started to cool down in about 2 min. After install of deep dish pan, now gauge needle usually doesn't move from 185 or 190 all day long. But I still don't think they are worth over $200.00 My first step was to get temps from trans cooler, and see if temps were about the same at middle and at corners of cooler. Supposed to show any blockage in cooler I was told. Not really sure about physics of it but made since to me about temp change if not good flow within cooler. Mine has only couple degree temp difference. Another way is a bucket flow test, but not sure about how much fluid for how long. Mine passed temp test so I bypassed bucket flow test and put on pan. I'm happy now And after getting to top of big grade, assuming trans temp not overly hot, don't stop!!! Keep going so headwind of air cools you down.

(update 1) After reading Geno's PDF and then looking under the seat, I just unscrewed the four 10 mm bolts at each corner of cushion. Then cushion just lifts out. Found that I have a minor rub hole in fabric caused by the plastic trim piece where the seat elec switches are. Took to local upholstery shop and showed them the hole. They are going to sew in a fabric patch. Sort of like how you used to patch up holes in your knees in your levi's. Or patching a tire. And then change out the foam cushion. Billable time is supposed to be 45 min. Will post final result.

Ordered one from Geno's with full intension of sending it back if it was not as good as what my local upholstery shop could get. When it came in I showed it to them. They were impressed. Better than what they usually get. Its been siting in my shed for last 3 months, and was going to have them do after their summer rush is over (less money). Then talking with Geno's again about gauges last week, I asked them if they had very many returns on their cushions. They said no. I asked if they knew about how much people were paying to have them installed. He said most to it themselves. Surprized me, I thought upholstery was somewhat of an art. They directed me to a PDF that I never knew about. So far I looked under the seat and decided the best course of action is to break out vacuum cleaner and get out a ton of hair still there from a dog we lost 2 years ago. If you get to yours before I get to mine, Please post how it goes. Because I also don't know if "I don't have the right skills or tools to replace it". Same as you. Here is the file Geno's says cover everything. https://s3.amazonaws.com/cdn.genosgarage.com/downloads/InstallPDF/GGInstall-DG-MOPARSeatCushion.pdf Also my lumbar thing doesn't work. Shop said that Dodge's not the best design and takes couple hours to do right, but depends why it doesn't work. Elec or roller thing broker? We'll see with new cushion. I never use the lumbar thing anyway.

Looking up some parts today. Somehow across this fill in your VIN number and up comes your belt and hoses. Going to print out and keep in glove box, just in case. I'm not in love with Gates but thought it was handy. http://www.gates.com/catalogs-and-resources/resources/repository/engineering-business-applications/vin-decoder/vin-decoder

(Sorry for all the "basic 101 questions" from a "new" member. My fuel system fell apart when out of town, after 10 years of service, the FASS feel apart. And out of town mechanic did a very poor job of putting on the Air Dog 100. Old mechanic feels betrayed I think. He did all my work and very good by the way. Since 2005. But now is punishing me I think. Wants 4 hours at $120 and hour to look over work done by out of town mechanic. 4 hours I think I could put on an AIr Dog myself by just watching videos. So I'm on the "fast track" to learn about these things fabulous 5.9's myself. Thanks)... Going to start with installing a Fuel Pressure gauge. In the latest Geno's book Isspro 2 inch elec fuel pressure gauge is $138.00 and Auto Meter 2 inch elec fuel pressure gauge is $225.95 I have auto meter in other 3 gauges in "A" pillar. Had them since 2006 and no problems. Between Isspro and auto meter is one better than another? $90.00 difference on one item makes me wonder why. Is this a case of you get what you pay for or are gauges about equal in performance? If you have had Isspro for a length of time, had any problems? If you have had both, any reason why one is better than the other? One last question, anybody know of a "colorized" gauge? Where needle shows in green at right pressure? Thanks

What type of metals should I use or not use in the fuel system? Or does it even matter? Are there some metals that don't play well with fuel? Thinking about ball vales and fittings. Thanks

I had a light went off at 5psi or lower. I learned the hard way, Not good enough. Called Geno's garage today about fuel pressure gauge, but having problems finding gauge pod. "A" pillar already has 3. Trying to get pod holder for fuel pressure gauge of what is in this pic (closet to drivers window)

Op here...thanks for replies. I'm in process of getting a fuel pressure gauge and took out the gauges I have to see part number, so I could tell auto-meter what I have in order to match. And my does boost gauge wiggle around a little bit. Noticed some black stuff and thought maybe you folks might know. Talking with auto meter today, he said "what ever mechanic like to use, from plumers putty to glue, but most use elec tape". Thanks again