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Rogan

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Posts posted by Rogan

  1. 28 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

     

    I've gotta ask what size tires? Then do you know if you got a quick ratio box or standard ratio steering box? If your running oversized tire make sure to have only the standard ratio steering box. Quick ratio will have too mush stress and more prone to steering box failures. Quick ratio is not design for larger tires. 

     

    What color is the ATF in the reservoir? Bright red or darken?

     

    Do realize that the steering system is complete designed by Ford. (Truth!) Hence why all truck after 2003 switched out all the Sagnaw steering box, hydrobooster, and power steering fluid to Ford steering boxes, hydroboosters, and ATF for fluid. This way they could hopefully upgrade the steering which, I've not seen anything great on this side either being they fail the same way the Sagnaw boxes did from 2nd gen down. I just got done with a 2005 Dodge with a wiped out steering box and he's running 35 inch tires. Even added a steering box brace for this. Hoping it hold up better. Time will tell...

     

    Hence I've got my 2006 in the yard I still got to straighten out the steering in that by ditching the 2 inch leveling kit so the caster returns. :rolleyes:

    It's all OE.  Stock gear box, etc.  Stock size tires, MAYBE 265s at biggest.  The fluid is slightly dark looking in the res, but not burnt/too dark. it's pretty red to the touch.  

    Steering is (guessing on memory) 3ish turns, lock/lock.

    Truck has about 230-240k on it.

     

  2. So I tried your method on purging..  I only got one tire off ground, worked it back/forth about 20 times while owner watched the fluid..  no bubbles..   then I started the engine with one tire off ground..  turned steering wheel with one finger..  great!   put the tire on the ground?  can't turn it....  Pick the other tire up, turns steering with one finger..   put it on the ground, no turn...

     

    I didn't get to pull the pump lines/fittings off, because it started raining..

     

     

    Thoughts?  think it's the pump?  brakes felt normal/fine.

     

  3. 21 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

    If the fluid is foamy after running your too low and do have air trapped in the system. You could start it up and purge it out then you have to shut down till the foam goes away typically about 30 minutes or so. If you continue to drive the truck it will eventually go away but the steering and brake performance will be reduced being air does compress so the system is degraded till the air is purge out of the fluid. 

    Purge it, by turning the wheel back/forth while running?   Or is there another trick?  Only thing I can think of is crack a fitting, but that'll make a mess for sure  lol

    I still need to find the source of the leak, regardless, so I'll try to do that tomorrow.

     

    thanks!

  4. Went out to a friend's house last weekend to look at his truck for him.  a month or so ago, I put a new steering stab (oem) and sway bar end-links on.   shortly after, he started complaining about super hard steering when slow, or backing up...

    So I went out there and disconnected the stabilizer, for SnGs..

    No change.

     

    Power steering pump is leaking, but had plenty of fluid in it.

    Hydra brakes work fine.  Just cannot hardly turn it sitting still..  I don't wanna throw parts at it (pump or steer gear) without knowing pretty sure what is the issue.     Any thoughts on this are greatly appreciated..

     

    Pump doesn't whine/groan/nothing..

     

  5. SOMEHOW, fuse 20/21 in the TIPM were pulled (they are joined in a fuse carrier) and were somehow disconnected from the circuit.   The U0151 code isn't appearing now.  But I still get a long crank, and (most times) need to remote lock/unlock to get the truck to start; otherwise, it just cranks/no start..  

    Man, the bugs/gremlins you get when a truck sits for extended periods of time..  LOL

     

     

     

    Thanks, Michael!

     

     

    Rick

  6. So I got my truck back together after 1/2 a yr..  But I get this U0151 (Lost Communication with Restraints Control (RCM) Module)

     

    I tried MODIS, and AlfaOBD and cannot connect to it.   Tried following some troubleshooting tips on obd-codes.com, to no avail..  I am mechanically and 12V electrically inclined, but the troubleshooting tips made not much sense..

     

    Anyone here seen this issue/fixed this issue, or have any guidance?  The Airbag light is on, and I cannot get the truck state-safety inspected until it's fixed..

     

     

    Thank you.

    U0151 Lost Communication with Restraints Control (RCM) Module

    Read more at: https://www.obd-codes.com/u0151
    Copyright OBD-Codes.com
  7. I've seen a few 3G trucks with coolant bottle in the RR of the bay (pass side firewall) and washer fluid in the LF.   My 07.5 has the combo bottle in the LF.   What denotes the other (separated design) layout vs the combination tank?

     

    I ask, because I'd like to separate mine, due to some PTO pump clearances I'm looking to add.

    If one of you know what particular denotation the separated tanks are (or hell, even PNs), I'd greatly appreciate it.   I'm looking to go this separated tank layout.

     

     

    Regards,

    EngineBay1-2005 2500.jpg

  8. So for shitsngigglez, I threw an old block pump inline, tandem the pumps, for a test..

     

    24psi KOEO

    20 psi KOER @ idle

    15-16psi @ 1500-2000

     

     

    Truck still hazing/smoking, though, so I'm guessing a VP is in order, AS WELL AS and AD/FASS pump, and trash the in'tank + block pumps.

    Thanks for all your input, guys!  As always, it's greatly appreciated.

     

    edit:  he really needs a new tank, too.  this one is so distorted; I am guessing due to the vacuum the tank has lived in, over the last 8+ yrs...  lol

  9. 1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

    Demand volume is out weighing the supplied volume. Need a pum with more volume to keep up. Then you need plumbing with less restriction. 

     

    Even to this day AirDog 150 pump I'm only a 2 to 3 PSI drop from idle to WOT at 100 MPH with about 500 HP with of mods. This just points out you need a better fuel system. Make sure the tank vent is not plugged up you could clean it up and the route some vinyl tube to a higher place where mud and dirt won't plug it.

     

    VP44 is done and need to be replaced with that P0216 code the timing piston is ruined. 

    So here's my question, concerning you saying the demand vs supplied..
    If it's a new OE pump, OE lines, truck is 100% stock, how/why would the demand be higher than the supplied, even at idle?  I could see it with a hotrod VP pump, etc, but not 100% stock.

    The tank vent?  You mean the rollover valve?  That's the only "vent to atmosphere" fitting on the tank assembly, and it's clear and unobstructed.  The entire sender/pump assembly is new, so that shouldn't be an issue.  The one I replaced had a capped nipple on the RO valve, the new one is opened.

     

    My old 01 had a 0216, and it's cause was a plugged up, jerry-rigged filter setup the previous owner had done.  I cleaned that catastrophe up, and my 216 code went away.

    I'm not saying the VP pump isn't bad, especially with how long it may have been ran with restricted (vacuumed) flow, but I don't wanna throw a $1200 pump on if it isn't needed.

     

    How does a timing piston (if that is, indeed, the issue) cause fuel pressure to drop that much, or be that low to start with?   Not arguing, more trying to understand..

     

     

  10. I'm confused as can be, and this'll be long-winded..

     

    Subject: 1998.5 2500 Cummins 24V 5 speed RCLB 4WD.  115K miles

    Complaint:  He (good friend of mine, and neighbor) stopped by the other day with it poppin', stumbling, hazing, and no power.  Also, fuel gauge is not correct, and reads very inaccurately.

     

    I checked the FP at the injector pump..  KOEO, 12psi.    KOER, idle 10,   At 1500rpm, 5-6psi.    Fuel filter was changed a few months back, truck's been about 1500 miles since.
    I could barely hear the in-tank pump (it's had the dodge conversion from block-mounted to in-tank lift pump).

     

    Codes: P1693, P0216..   (dun dun dunnnnn)

    Inspected all the fuel fittings/lines, nothing looks suspect. So I decided "let's start with a replacement in-tank pump, and check for crap in the tank."   Ok.   Ordered parts (including a new overflow valve).  Dropped the tank, and noticed when I removed the return line, the tank took a big ole gasp of air; it was under vacuum..   Once I got the tank out, I noticed a shipping plug still on the rollover valve of the sending unit..  Also noticed the tank was deformed along the bottom and sides, as if it were sucked in for a long period of time, and it was holding that shape now, even after venting.  When I talked to the owner, he said "I replaced that in-tank assembly about 8 yrs ago.   And off and on, I've noticed over the last couple of years, that when I refuel, the tank has vacuum when I remove the gas cap."  So apparently, this vacuum issue has been a problem for a number of years, with most recently, getting noticeable.

     

    I replaced the pump/sender assembly, and reinstalled the tank, then cleared codes.  Tested pressure..

    KOEO, 16psi

    KOER, 10psi

    1500:  8psi

    Idling, it still constantly hazing, and "missing".

     

    So I ran a length of 14g wire back, cut the green 16-18g in-tank pump wire, spliced in the test wire, and went direct to battery..  I also replaced the Overflow valve at this time, and cleared codes again..

    KOEO, 20psi

    KOER, 12psi

    1500: 8-9psi

     

    And that's where I'm at now.  Would the VP44, if failing, act this way?  Could it be leaking internally?    I don't understand why the pressure drops so much, even at idle.

    Thoughts on a solution?

  11. So I picked up a 70 gallon Freightliner tank for good deal, to use as an aux tank in the truck.  I'm now looking into the mounting of said tank.   I got the truck's tank straps and mounts, but I don't see a viable option to use these just yet, as far as mounting goes..  The tank is 23D x 41L.
    Anyone here done this before with a similar tank?   If so, pics?

     

    Thank ya,

    Rogan

  12. (for info purposes)
    BHAF Donaldson Air Filter Primary Duralite- B085011

    BHAF = Big Honking Air Filter

    Brand - DuraLite 

    Efficiency - 99.9%

    • Efficiency Test Std - ISO 5011
    • Family ECB
    • Rated Flow HR - 469.69 CFM
    • Rated Flow LR - 278.99 CFM
    • Rated Flow MR - 399.06 CFM
    • Restriction HR - 7.99 MM H2O
    • Restriction LR - 4.02 MM H2O
    • Restriction MR - 5.98 MM H2O
    • Style - Round
    • Type - Primary



    Filter Cross Reference:
    AC DELCO-A1474C ; BALDWIN-PA2818 ; BIG A-94637 ; CARQUEST-88637 ; CATERPILLAR-3I0003 ; CUMMINS-2912986 ,3912020 ; FLEETGUARD-AH1141 ; FLEETRITE-AHR81141 ; FORD-9576B085011 ; FRAM-CA6818 ; FREIGHTLINER-DNB085011 ; HASTINGS-AF2329 ; HAVAM-HD1915 ; HERKULES (TELSNIG)-B085008 ; LUBER FINER-LAF2533 ; NAPA-6637 ; PACCAR-Y06012208 ; ; SF-FILTER-SL12903 ; WIX-46637 ,546637 ; WOODGATE-WGA1138,-?+-íBHAF, big honking air filter, Tyma

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