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Rogan

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Posts posted by Rogan

    Posted

    sub 10k miles on new Bosch OE injectors
    RaceMe Pro tuned (60hp setting, #3), deleted.
    5" FloPro exhaust

    For a long time, now, I've been getting a fuel derate under heavy throttle loads (like climbing a 4-5% grade in 5th or 6th) at like 40% or more throttle percentage.
    As an example, logging with my XTOOL A30D scanner:

    • 60% throttle
    • 5th gear
    • about 55mph
    • loaded or empty, doesn't matter

    Fuel pressure requested set point:  21000psi
    Fuel pressure Sensor:  15000psi (more throttle decreases this pressure, I've seen it as low as like 8000psi)
    HPCR Fuel Pressure:  follows fuel pressure sensor

    After about 5-8 secs of this gap in requested pressure, the Derate Counter increments by 1, the engine gets flat (100% throttle makes no change) and the overhead console dings "See Dealer".
    no codes are stored...


    Things I've done: 

    • I've updated the tuner's firmware
    • re-flashed the truck
    • replaced fuel filters
    • replaced the Fuel Pressure Sensor
    • Replaced Fuel Pressure Relief Valve with a Plug
      • Re-shimmed OE FPRV
      • Replaced with Bosch new FPRV
    • Changed to a lesser tune, as well as a higher tune
    • tried stepping up the rail fuel presser
      • no change, set back to stock

    Last thing, I've ordered a FLEECE 170 lift pump, that will be here tomorrow.. 

    The 'NO CODE' part is a MFer, since that gives me absolutely no direction.

     

    Thoughts?  I'm at a loss, and I've been chasing this issue for a very long time.

    Posted

    Wondering if it isn't the EGR cooler.   Started the truck up the other day, park brake on, hit the cruise, then set..  idled up to 1200, EB on, I let it warm about 5 mins (was 19F out). 

    Came out to get in it, and saw a puddle of coolant toward the RR of the engine...  chased it down, it appeared to be the fitting where the EGR cooler hose hooks to the vertical steel nipple out of the head (just forward of the heater port)..  Drove down to Auto Zone for a jug of coolant, left it running, no high idle, no EB on..  came out, no drips.   Topped off the overflow jug and monitored the truck the rest of the day for leaks; none found.

     

    The next morning, I did the same thing.  Came out to leave, 3 puddles:  same as before at RR of engine, but also one at LF and one at RF of engine.   Further inspections found the upper coolant hose at radiator leaking, as well as pushing coolant at the cap/overflow hose connection..

    Turned off EB, dropped idle, let it idle for another 5 mins.  Leaks stopped..

    Think this is back pressure pushing through the EGR cooler or something?    Engine has about 1500 miles on a full rebuild.  Never leaks or loses coolant unless I force the above scenario. 

     

    Thx

     

    Hey, John..

    So..  UPDATE..  My OEM intake tube was all cracked and full of holes in the rubber pieces, so I bought a "cold air intake w/filter" for an interim fix. 

    I threw my GoPro under the hood for S&Gs and pointed it to the air filter..   Low and behold, the filter was sucking closed rapidly..  So I ran down and grabbed a 4" inlet K&N (again, this is a temp solution, as I'm trying to source an oem intake pipe so I can reinstall the stock airbox) and swapped the filter..  the truck seemed a tad more responsive, throttle-wise.   Took it back out onto the same stretch of road I was on when I went to pick up the new filter...   

    Mind you, on the way back from getting the new filter, with the old one still in place..  60mph, 0psi boost, 1100F, 15k rail..

     

    After the filter swap, same section, 60mph, 6th gear as before..   0psi boost, 700F EGT, ~12k rail pressure.  

     

     

    Good luck finding a 'deletable tuner'..  I almost did mine, but waited too long.  Now all the local/semi-local shops are being eat up with EPA fines and have stopped even selling them..  sucks..  

    I have 'fixed' my EGR, but I am on stock, OEM everything, including tune... it's still lethargic and I despise the G56.  lol

    2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

    Harbor freight you can get o ring sets for super cheap. Ive got a set in the service truck (Thor).

    I checked 'em out, but the smallest in the kit was 5mm, which is too big.   Advance had 3 o-ring that were the right size, but that's it.  I'll try Lowes tomorrow I suppose.

     

    Posted

    I noticed this morning (we had some pretty decent rain yesterday from Ida) that 3/5 of my cab lights are holding about 3/8" of water..  I ASSUME this is coming in through the screw holes, since there are no cracks/etc in the lenses. 

    Is there an availability of small screw washers/seals out there somewhere that you may know of (short of some clear silicone or something)?  I don't want this to create bigger problems in the near future.

     

    Thx

     

    I don't know if I've had this issue for awhile, or if I just noticed it..
    I added a couple 12mm red LED clearance lights under the tailgate, wired them to the plug that's for the tailgate lamp (I dont have the tailgate lamp, just the plug tucked up under the bed).
    Opened the drivers door, dome lights cam on as usual (LEDs). Key off, Turned on the parking lights, and the dome lights blinked real fast about 5x, then went out. Checked for a bad fuse, and found 15A #16 blown. Replaced it, and did the same procedure with the same result. Disconnected the new LEDs, repeated process, same result..

    NOW... Key in RUN position, door open, dome lights on, turn on parking lights, they dont blink or blow the fuse... Turn Key off, repeat process, blown fuse...

    WTAF?

     

     

    Posted ·

    Edited by Rogan

    .   I went to get in the truck a little bit ago.  Opened the door, the dome lights came on for a sec, then blinked, then went off..    Then I noticed the cargo light wouldn't work, either.  Push the button, the cargo indicator on the cluster illuminates, but no cargo light...   FSM shows these are triggered by the cluster??

     

    OMFG, I'm so blind.  There's a fuse #35,. CCNI

    ·

    Edited by Rogan

    DrawTite Activator IV.  I read this last night:
    If you detect constant 12V power on the blue output wire when the brake is not pressed, then the controller is damaged and must be replaced. If the controller passes these tests, then the problem could be in your connectors or trailer wiring.

     

     

    I ordered a Curt for a replacement.

     

    • Like 1

    OK, I'll post pics later (they're on my phone)..  But I found the trailer brake wire (it's the one I thought it was, at this plug)..Dk Green.  it's sitting at 12VDC all the time.  Cut the Lt Blue wire out of the brake controller, and it dropped to 0V at the green wire, but still 12V out on the controller..  Bad/failed controller, apparently.  lol

     

     

    Posted

    So yesterday, I finally started tackling installing the Mopar "add-on" trailer (7-pin) kit.   The reasoning is the PO had some kinda hack-job of a setup..  A busted 7 pin connector, and a piece of 14/2 wire (only using one) ran from the 7 way at bumper, up the driver's side rail, to the plug behind the LF wheel-well.  Tapped into a green wire.

    This is apparently a 12VConstant (green) fed to the brake terminal of the 7-way.  WTAF??

    So at any rate, the MOPAR replacement with harness is in, minus the blue brake wire..
    The new harness has a blue pigtail that is apparently to go to the under-dash somewhere. 
    There's already a trailer brake in the cab, plugged in to the junction block above the clutch pedal.
    Shouldn't I have access to this wire somewhere underneath the truck?

    The replacement plug in the bumper connects to the harness by 2 plugs:  one plugs into the actual 7-way, and another plugs into the 4-pin OE connector above the class 3 hitch mounting (again, factory).   But there's no trailer brake wiring/connector anywhere I can see, at the back.

    The plug under the LF wheel-well liner, I cannot figure out what connector it is, or its pin-out, by looking at the 08 FSM..   Any help is greatly appreciated.

     

     

    Rick

    @AH64ID you got any thoughts on this?  Today, I was able to get it to do it climbing a 3%, 5th gear, 60mph, empty, no trailer..   "Ding!  See Dealer now"   5 secs later rpms drop and drop..   downshift, try to keep pushing up the hills as there's nowhere to pull over..    this goes on for about 20 secs, then it picks up like nothing happened..