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AH64ID last won the day on December 2 2018

AH64ID had the most liked content!

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About AH64ID

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    Kuna, Id

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  1. Hopefully that does something, but the accessory drive has no clue about load, road speed, or what gear you’re in.
  2. I cannot get the file to play on either my phone or computer. If it only happens in first and second gear I would suspect one of two things. First it’s in the transmission, and second road noise masks it at greater speed’s. Have you driven around locked in second gear and created a way to re-create it on demand?
  3. Check to see if the damper is still installed on the high pressure power steering line.
  4. Unplug the injector harnesses on the valve cover. There are 2 of them on your 06. I've done this on my CR after long periods of sitting to allow oil to flow before firing.
  5. Perfect. I recommend not loading up a bunch right away. Load in groups of 3 with small changes, 0.5gr, of power. Go test fire them thru the chronograph. You're looking for the powder load the provides the smallest variance in fps. That's a load the gun likes and will be the most accurate with.
  6. Basic book loads? Did you get a chronograph too?
  7. AH64ID

    Jelled diesel

    How much fuel was in either of your tanks ahead of the refuel? Had he uses any bio diesel in the previous few tanks? (Only takes a minor amount of bio to have residual issues for many tanks). How were here the vehicles stored the 24 hours before? What was the fuel level at the time of gelling?
  8. 80% added ground clearance for the oil pan, and 20% looks. The 2” had a negative effect on my ride, but the 2WD suspension is quite different.
  9. AH64ID

    Jelled diesel

    I am not sure that filter location is to blame for gelling, but rather improperly treated fuel. Injection pump fuel temp won't keep filters from gelling. It doesn't surprise me at all that where you live and buy fuel you've never had an issue. With your AD being before your OEM fuel heater the fuel heater is basically useless. The first unheated fuel filter is where you would gel, and you have 2 of them before your fuel heater. FASS does make electric heaters for their pump, and I wouldn't personally have an aftermarket fuel pump without heater(s). I do find it comical that you're bashing FASS for issues that have nothing to do with the pump, yet you've had two AD failures recently that are quality related, one that I think was less than expected life, and one VERY premature. AD also keeps upping the flow of their pumps, yet cannot supply a filter to match that flow. AD used to advertise 17K hours, IIRC, yet now they make no such claim.... hmmm... A layer of ice on the filter would actually help insulate it, but the problem is the fuel is cold and it doesn't matter where under the frame the pump is, it's exposed to ambient temps and airflow. The only way to keep the pump out of the airflow is to put it in the tank, or well above the tank in the fenders.
  10. Is it speed based or rpm based? Meaning if you maintain speed and downshift does the frequency change?
  11. AH64ID

    Jelled diesel

    Fuel doesn't have to fully gel to stop flow at the filter, as you saw with all those solid objects in there. Typically the first unheated filter inline is where the fuel will gel if the fuel isn't properly treated/blended. Fuel heaters are life savers for unexpected cold weather that's below normal for a region. Most stations only treat/blend their fuel for normal local lows, so an abnormal cold snap or traveling to a new region can cause gelling. Ever read about Ram forgetting to turn on the 2nd fuel heater on the 13 Rams? It caused all kinds of gelling issues when winter hit. Yesterday I was traveling on local fuel and hit -9°F for a long stretch at 70 mph. I am not sure how cold my fuel is treated for, but I am pretty sure that it wasn't setup for -9°F. I didn't have any issues but I have 2 fuel heaters, one in each of my first two filters inline, and since installing those I haven't seen any gelling issues even with fuel that's not treated as well as it should be. I also have my one filter that's under the cab insulated to help the heater keep fuel moving. While driving yesterday I was watching my underhood temps with my Smarty EGT cold junction box and battery temp. With 3/4 flaps closed on my winter front my IAT's were ±30°F, coolant was ±193°F, battery temp was ±6°F and the junction box was ±0°F. The junction box is in the engine bay right above the steering shaft on the firewall. So even with a hot engine, mostly blocked grill, and hot exhaust the underhood temps were still VERY cold and one can see why even engine bay filters will gel up. Then for emergencies I carry 2 bottles of Amsoil Diesel Recovery. https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/fuel-additives/diesel/diesel-recovery/?code=DRCQT-EA
  12. How much load are you under? Do you have a boost gauge?
  13. Which part of why I was able to get my 1 piece driveshaft cheaper than 3 new u-joints and a carrier bearing installed on my OE 2 piece.
  14. Only 45K miles on my 1550's, but zero issues. My front u-joints have 140K on them, but they don't spin full time since 86K miles. My OE rear u-joints were still perfect when removed at 96K miles. They were removed because the carrier bearing was shot and I went to a 1 piece drive shaft. My truck doesn't lead an easy life. Lots of towing miles, lots of very dusty miles, and very little empty highway miles. Last year 49.5% of my miles were towing, and for the year I only averaged 12.82 mpg. I ran NAPA u-joints in a old beater toyota... won't touch those again. That was back when I thought NAPA sold decent parts. Dad's 06 got over 100K out of the OEM sealed, and he went with greasable. IIRC he's had to have them replaced already and they didn't have 50K miles on them but did have regular servicing. Do they have 100K miles on them or 366K miles? .
  15. .45 ACP is my preferred round for 2 legged predators where I'm not worried about room departure. .40 S&W is my in home preferred round for 2 legged predators (some great home defense rounds that won't go room to room) 10mm Auto is my preferred round for 4 legged predators...220gr hard cast lead at 1200 fps will penetrate! (will open carry when the conditions warrant) None of those come in a pocket pistol. I've never been a big fan of the smaller calibers for defense, but I was once told that the 1st rule in a gunfight is to have a gun... and I'd rather have a smaller caliber than no gun. That being said I still don't think 9mm is worth it. Guns aren't quite small enough and I think 9mm is a crappy round. I don't even want one to plink with, as .22LR is still cheaper and FUN. All of that steered my towards .380. I started with a Keltec P3-AT in .380. It's small, holds 6+1 and was HORRIBLE to shoot. I also never liked +1 since it didn't have a safety, not even a Glock style triger safety. At the time is was really the only option. Now I have a S&W Bodyguard in .380 and think it's a great little pocket pistol (actually we have 2, his and hers). It has a real safety so I carried chambered, and it's not really any different in size than the Keltec but it is much more comfortable to shoot. It does have a built in laser too, if you're into those... I am not but that's another story. A buddy has gone the same route with Keltec, Bodyguard, and now has a Kahr. I haven't seen it yet, but it's smaller than the bodyguard. These are what live in the bodyguards. https://www.hornady.com/ammunition/handgun/380-auto-90-gr-ftx-critical-defense#!/