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Everything posted by AH64ID

  1. AH64ID

    2006 48RE weak reverse

    As far as the trans is concerned the full line is the full line, so if you're not overfilled/underfilled on the dipstick you're fine That probably worth a call/e-mail to derale.
  2. AH64ID

    Big change in my life...

    There is no fee to transfer to a bank account. The only fee comes out of the transfer if you’re paying for goods/services. Sending money to friends/family is 100% fee free.
  3. AH64ID

    Big change in my life...

    Same... I prefer to stay away from it.
  4. AH64ID

    Big change in my life...

    Paypal doesn't charge a penny if you're sending money to friends, which is what this is.
  5. I think it's fine, as long as it warms up before you pour it in. I really don't even treat my fuel except for the beginning of winter or if I am going to a colder climate than where I bought the fuel. By this time all the stations should be winteriezed.
  6. Which is basically a very dry version of #1 Diesel. Can you not get #1 up there?
  7. Based on what I have seen on my truck the difference in 2 hours and 4 hours is barely noticeable on my ECT, so I doubt the difference is even felt in the cab.
  8. Gotcha. I've always just used 1.5" with standard mounts and haven't ever measured it, which is pretty close to your 1.57".
  9. Are you talking about setting it for "zero"?
  10. Nope... pretty much a snowflake. I would certainly never load up a moly-coated 200gr Swift A-Frame, and then push it out the bbl at 3010 fps
  11. Personally I would change the filter at 3K miles and then sample it at 7,500 miles...assuming it's less than a year. See where you are at. You probably could save some money on the power bill by only running the block heater for 2 hours. In my experience it takes 90 minutes to get to 90% of the peak temp. After that it rises very slowly and the difference from 2 hours to 4 hours probably isn't worth the cost.
  12. AH64ID

    You have a tuner... NO WARRANTY.

    5.9's don't really have a HG issue, and the CR 5.9's have one of the worst OEM cam profiles ever... if not the worst. Then again, I've heard the 6.7 and 5.9 CR's use the same grind, thou the part numbers are different. There was also some discussion years ago about the 03-04 cam vs the 04.5-07 cam being different and part of the reason the 03-04's were cleaner and more efficient but the 03 and 04.5 use the same part number and the builders I've talked to say they are the same. The cam profile was designed to create an in-cylinder EGR in lieu of having an external EGR, which in theory is a good idea. The intake duration is the longest of any ISB in a Dodge/Ram and the exhaust duration is the shortest. This really reduces flow thru the cylinder, as does the very restrictive turbine housing. All that being said the CR's that have HG issues are the 6.7's with too much timing or improper tuning. The 6.7 has Siamese cylinders so there is less HG materiel between the cylinders and with stock head bolt torque it's quite easy to blow the HG.
  13. AH64ID

    You have a tuner... NO WARRANTY.

    Lots more available power on a stock fuel system, and very easy to mis-tune since there is a pilot. Duration can be programmed to be too long easily, etc... Just more ways to mess it up. They also start at more power than VP trucks, aside from 03-04 Cali motors. Often times the pilot timing/quantity isn't adjusted to match the main timing/quantity and you end up with too much pilot being injected too soon (50°+ BTDC is a number that's easily obtainable with a stock pilot map). People also think about timing like they would a VP or P-pump, but it's just not the same. On a VP or P-Pump the timing is when the injection process starts at the injection pump. There are several degrees lost to metering, pressurizing, and overcoming pop pressure before fuel enters the cylinder. On a CR the timing is the point in which the injector opens and fuel enters the cylinder. The fuel is already at peak pressure which will increase customization and decrease ignition delay. Consider my cruise timing of 14.5° without a pilot compared to M1973M at around 20-21° (going from memory). With the differences in fuel systems there probably isn't much difference in when the fuel actually enters the cylinder. With a pilot I don't run more than 8° for cruise timing. Forgot to add.. the 04.5-07 pistons are not a forgiving design. Most re-builders are swapping to 03-04 style pistons on 04.5-07 builds.
  14. What has your past OCI been? How long do you plan to run it? I never think it's a bad idea after switching to a good synthetic to do a shorter filter interval, it's cheap and easy. I'll be switching my Jeep 4.0 to synthetic at the next change and will do a short filter change interval on it as well.
  15. I love it. I have it calibrated for where I hunt elk and it’s marked to 1000, thou that’s a bit far for hunting shots. I’ve shot it over 400 numerous times and it’s dead accurate... assuming a good range. A good range finder is mandatory with one, and not one of the ones that gives you “ballistic” range. You need one that gives you true horizontal range with no ballistic computation, which last I looked was hard to find. I have a Nikon Rifle Hunter 1000 and it does the angle math for me, so I can range, adjust the dial and fire.
  16. Not a big fan of guns... but if I was an elk hunter I’d probably have a Rem 700 in 300 H&H, a 26” Lilja barrel with a custom muzzle brake, McMillan stock, and a Leopold VX-3 3.5-10 with a custom drop compensate dial on it. Maybe a nice bi-pod too :-)
  17. How is that turbo balanced? As a unit or each individual part?
  18. Heresay is going to be what most people go on for turbos, and many other parts too. Not that many people replace them, and no one wants to do it twice so many are willing to spend the money on name brand. I’ve personally only ran 2 turbos, but I’ve talked with several people over the years who haven’t had luck with no-name turbos. Not forums, but personal conversations. So that’s not a personal experience, but it’s good enough for me. Yes, the internet is full of horror stories as most people don’t chime in when something works as advertised... but sell them a crappy part and they’ll tell everyone. Then again when I was younger and the internet wasn’t much of a thing I bought a lot of car parts store parts and I replaced them often! They just weren’t worth their price, but I had no way of knowing how many others had the same issues. So the internet isn’t all bad 😂 I’ve been researching water pumps for my 4.0 TJ and almost bought a AC Delco (a brand that generally gets good reviews) for 1/3 the price of OEM. All my research led me down the OEM path thou, no complaints on OEM and lots of aftermarket complaints... some brands worse than others. I also just put a cheaper fuel pump in my VW Jetta, despite some reviews but it never leaves town... so it’s not as important to me as the Cummins or Jeep that I’ll head to the hills in. Long story short, but buy what you want to spend your money on. Take others people experiences for what they are, realizing many are jaded but still normally valuable experiences.
  19. Sounds great, but why let it idle for 35 minutes at -13°F? Anything more than 3-5 isn't necessary and just wasting fuel or potentially creating wet stacking issues.
  20. It will slightly shift the axle, but I can’t notice it like I could with my 2”. I haven’t noticed anything with the steering, or alignment and the ride is 10x better than with the 2” spacer.
  21. AH64ID

    Big change in my life...

    Best of luck @Mopar1973Man. Be sure to holler if you need any help while you're in town. I think you'e got my number.
  22. This is the one I run. https://www.topguncustomz.com/i-25499269-1-inch-leveling-kit-1994-2001-dodge-ram-1500-1994-2012-ram-2500-3500-2013-ram-2500-4x4.html?Session_ID=7b8d37b5f09212a4d1d9e88b0d989260
  23. I'm toying with running the single event tune for some towing to see how it does. If that's the case once it warms back up I'll redo my numbers.
  24. Is there a 50° difference when cold/off as well? I drove the truck this morning and this photo came to mind, so I got on I-84 and set the cruise at 65. It puts me at ~1850 rpms. Coolant was 190°, IAT was 40°. I'm currently running my single event 12V Tow tune, which has 14° of timing at this rpm/load. Load was around 18% and 30-36 mm3. EGT's floated right at 600° ±25° and after 8 miles my economy was 22-23, but not enough miles to see how it holds nor enough to be fully warmed up and have temps settle to their "normal" range. (Warmed up I'll see 500-550° under the same conditions). The truck was also cold, oil temp didn't get to operating temp until 4-5 miles onto the interstate so I was burning some extra fuel there, especially when you think about the 8 qts of 75w-90 in rear diff with minimal load to warm them up. It usually takes me 40+ miles of winter driving to see the cruise load/EGT's drop to "normal" once everything is warmed up. So when I consider the truck wasn't fully warmed up, I'm around 1K lbs heavier, and have more parasitic drag I'd have to say they run pretty similar temps/load/economy.... but the intriguing part is the timing difference which does nothing more than highlight the differences in VP vs CR injection. So on a VP you have to really increase the timing at lower loads since that's when the VP starts building pressure, whereas on a CR the timing is when the injector opens... big difference there! When I am running a tune with a pilot and getting similar mpg's the EGT's are always higher, which comes from having a pilot and not being able, nor needing, to run the main with that much timing. The retarded timing means more heat out the exhaust, but the mpg's mean I still getting peak efficiency out of it. If I get much above 8° of timing with a pilot event I start to haze and lose efficiency. Just some morning commute thoughts and such
  25. Probably a great idea. Likely a combo of low batteries and air in the system, both of which he alleviated the day it finally fired. In the winter batteries will be low enough to cause issues in as little as 10 days, if not sooner on weak batteries. The P0201-P0206 are likely why it will not fire. Figure out what's going on there and you'll likely fire. Bad harness? Bad ground? Bad connection? The 06-07 have the harness incorportated into the valve cover gasket right? It's not hard to damage. Good, hopefully it's not damaged. That is a boost and rail pressure fooler... My 0.02, don't hook it back up. Rail pressure foolers are hard on injectors.