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Everything posted by AH64ID

  1. You need to fix those codes. Are they new since the injector install? I would guess you gave loose connections or a bad wiring harness. All of it is in the vicinity of the injector install, and could have been damaged during install if they are new codes.
  2. We’re in the process of transitioning from a TT to a 5th wheel. For full timing I would prefer a 5th wheel as the living area and bedroom are more separate giving it a better feel. While 5th wheels do put more weight on the truck they also tow shorter and easier. Based on how we used the TT and ATV rack I’ll be lighter on the truck RAW with a 5er. We can double tow here so when we want to take the ATV’s we’ll do that. As others have stated the roof is important. Look for a 4 season unit. It will be much more comfortable in extreme temps, hot or cold. If I were looking for an older 5th wheel to full time in it would be an Arctic Fox. Built well, w/d hookups in many models, and plenty of room.
  3. For your sake I home you're correct... but something isn't right. You've had more troubles with the trans in the last little bit than most ever will. You have a receipt showing all new syncro's from last fall... Parts, Fluid,. builder, etc... something is causing you excessive downtime. I hope you figure it out sooner than later, it's a lot of time and money to be wasting.
  4. Dude, you can’t win on that transmission. Is he using cheap synchros? Clutch issues? Fluid issues? Something isn’t right. I think I’d be letting them do the R&R.
  5. Great news! It’s good to save some money and support local!!
  6. Dad ran posi loks on a 92 K2500 and then a 97 2500 suburban. We bought the kit for the 92 at the sportsman’s show in Seattle from the original designer/owner. Great products.
  7. Nope. CAD came back in 2013. It’s reported it came back for a ~1 mpg raise. Not sure I buy it. When I went with hubs on my 05 I didn’t see any increase. I'm not a huge CAD fan, and prefer how ford does their hubs.
  8. No it would not be visible. Jack up the passenger and spin a tire. See if the driveshaft rotates. Also, is there an additional cable? The PO could also have installed a posi-lok.
  9. Have you verified there isn’t a CAD delete shaft installed?
  10. Do you know why it's disconnected? Seems odd that it's just a random disconnection. Is it possible that it was a non-CAD truck that got a CAD axle installed in it for a repair? Can't recall if the CAD to non-CAD happened in MY01 or MY02. Or is there a CAD elimination kit installed?
  11. They should be rated for 3195lbs, which is what regulations limit LT 17” tires to these days.
  12. The FSM calls for 280. Do you have access to the downloads portion of this site? The 2001 FSM is in there. Hub.pdf
  13. So the V-band that comes with it unbolts?
  14. They look to get some good reviews and be a good turbo. I think it would match the mods in your sig nicely. Will it work with your exhaust brake? Maybe you are planning to keep the exhaust housing off your HX35?
  15. It should be 5/8". I had to replace the OE hitch on my 05 as both the 2x2 opening and the 5/8" pin hole were wallered.
  16. Something is amiss. Your temps are what is suspect.
  17. You just proved my theory. If the IR gun reads the same temp your reading oil filter housing temp and not actual oil temp. That’s why it’s cold. The filter head will always be colder than actual oil temp. It should still give you a good relative indication, it’s just not actual oil temperature. It’s probably about 30° low.
  18. What I said holds true regardless. If the temp sender is reading the temp of the entire unit and not the tip of the sensor it will read low. That looks like what is happening for you. The oil actually gets hotter on these engines with the piston and head heat and then the coolant brings it back down. The oil is exposed to more heat and has less cooling. It’s not 24V vs CR, it’s general engine operations. Oil temps operate at or above coolant temps without external oil coolers.
  19. then I would say your temperature sender is reading more of the temperature of the filter head housing and not the oil. After about 30 miles the oil temperature should match coolant and up from there is based on efficiency
  20. How many miles had you driven at that photo?
  21. There still isn’t a good reason for oil temp to be cooler than coolant thou. It has no way to run cooler.
  22. Good news!! I didn't realize you put a oil temp gauge in. Where did you put the sender? You run a lot colder oil than I did in the 05. My 05 would run coolant temp to coolant +5-10° in the winter without towing. Summer or towing in winter it ran coolant +15-20° unless I was on a long hard pull then it could get to coolant + 25-30°. The design of my 05 5.9 and 18 6.7 coolers looks very similar, thou they don't share the same core part numbers. The block holds less coolant on a 6.7 than a 5.9 and I do see that effect on warm-up and cool-down times, they also fluctuate temps a lot faster. I don't run a oil temp gauge on the 18 and the one on the dash is fake, but it really mirrors what I saw on the 05 in nearly all situations.
  23. There are a few good articles on the subject. Compression ignition always benefits from higher coolant temps. It’s one of the reasons that Cummins went to a 200° thermostat on the early 4th gen 6.7. I suspect that oil temp is why they went back to a 190° thermostat. That’s nothing but an opinion based on what I’ve seen with oil temp in these motors.
  24. If it's an hour drive and you're not getting to 190° unless loaded then you likely have a stuck thermostat. I would start by replacing the thermostat... not going to start another thermostat brand war... with a 190° thermostat and see if that helps. It is possible that a previous owner put a 165° thermostat in as that's a marine option, but not very likely. The 190° thermostat should crack at 187°-193°, run around 191°-193° cruising, go full open at 207° and not exceed 225°. Depending on load, speed, and ambient temp you might see up to 215°-217° pulling a steep grade.
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