AH64ID

I actually expect used truck prices to peak again starting in April. The new truck supply is still very short and right now were between towing/camping season so prices are down a little.

The solenoid takes power to close, so without a fuse the solenoid should be fully open (it’s a modulating valance). That’s why you should have been limited to 23-25 psi with the fuse removed. Basically without power it’s a 100% mechanical system with a 23 psi wastegate. Peak boost is 30-32 but will often settle at 28-30 depending on load and elevation. It may be partially working, but all the stuff your describing indicates it’s not working 100% like it should. Maybe it’s only partially opening.

I’ve said it, but I’ll say it again…Between the high boost without the fuse and the P0234 it seems as thou something is wrong with the mechanical wastegate not opening, or not fully opening. It explains everything you have described.

When you work on broke stuff all you see is broke stuff, that doesn’t mean it’s a good representation of the equipment or average maintenance.

Well if you can hit 30 without power to the solenoid something seems awry with the mechanical side. The mechanical wastegate opens at 23. On my 05 I wasn’t able to get over 23-25 with the solenoid power removed, and that was with a lot more fuel than you have. That’s what is supposed to happen.

That would be why the service interval is so short, can’t blame the injectors for neglect. Another issue is there are plenty of filters that don’t even meet the minimum filtration requirements for CR injectors. Some of them big names, like NAPA/WIX. Which I know you like to use them, but when they don’t meet spec it’s hard to justify their use.

Interesting, it shouldn’t have been able to make that much. Maybe the mechanical wastegate is stuck? Time to get it tuned.

The command valve defaults full open when lower is lost, so you were only making ~23 psi of boost before and now you’ll peak at 28-32 and settle our around 28-30. With the +50 injectors and only 23 psi I’ll bet that those EGT’s were scary hot!

Aside from the injection event differences the 03–04 also have a stronger piston design, which is often used on 04.5-07 rebuilds to improve the motor. That likely equals out the cost of rebuild. I have some time in an 05 and an 06. I preferred the layout of the 05 dash more, and also thought the seats were quite a bit more comfortable. I did have to replace the seat cushion on my 05, but the upgraded cushion from Geno’s was a great investment. Injectors can go much longer than 100-150K miles on a common rail, with proper filtration. There are a couple aftermarket filtration kits to help there, just be sure to pick a good filter for the kit. Not all filters are created equal. Companies love to sell the Cat 1R-0750 as the best filter out there, but it’s not and hasn’t been for a decade or more. It’s not bad, but it’s not the best. Use a Baldwin PF7977 in the OEM canister. That being said if you find a truck with more than 150K miles on the stock injectors, especially an early CR, I’d budget replacement into the cost. CR injectors have come a long ways since 03. 03-04 had 3 different Ho ratings. Cali, SO, and HO. Early 03 Cali/SO motors might have the smaller rear end and 47RE vs 48RE. If you plan to tow or add power avoid those. The HO is what I’s shop for. Are you planning to keep it stock? What trans are you looking for? The differences between a 2500 and 3500 in that generation were so small it doesn’t really matter what you get (aside from the previously mentioned early 03 SO’s), unless you live somewhere that GVWR is important, which was painfully low on either model. If I were getting back into a 3rd Gen I’d be looking for a 03-04 HO 6 speed NV5600. I’d then put a slightly larger turbo on it, injectors and tune it for 375-400 rwhp and call it a day. Great work/tow setup and great fuel economy. I’d also snag a 04.5-05 that had been rebuilt with 03-04 style pistons, assuming the quality of the rebuild could be verified.

After a couple winters without a grid heater installed I can tell you that it takes some REALLY cold weather to notice the grid heater not working. I never noticed them missing until around 0°, to the point that when I put it back in I reprogrammed it to run much, much, less than the OEM programming that was mostly for emissions. I started one morning at -25° on a cold soaked motor with weak batteries and no grid heater. Don’t get me wrong, it didn’t like it, but it started. I wouldn’t even call it a hard start, just an angry start. This was on a CR thou, so I’m not sure what impact having a pilot injection does in that cold of weather. Even on my 12V tunes I kept the pilot alive for cranking since I left the cranking tables stock.

I ran one in the past but don’t anymore. I’ve never felt a difference changing oil, if you do there is something wrong with your OCI or oil. Most likely it was placebo thou.

Silicone is likely from a bad air filter. Do you do Blackstone with TBN?

Yes it does depend on where the viscosity is measured. The two normal temps are 40°C and 100°C. The OP’s test doesn’t appear to have been taken at either temp, or it’s REALLY thick. T4 Rotella 15w-40 has a viscosity of 118 at 40°C. 150 @ 40°C is what a straight 40 weight oil is, not a multi grade. I’d like to see their scale for soot.

I’ve ran lots of reports over the years and agree it looks good, but I don’t see a label for the contaminates. Most wear metals are ppm, so those numbers are good. Soot is usually percent, and 2% is high for that generation of engine and such low miles on the oil. Speaking of which, 3400 miles is nothing for oil and too soon to sample and get any real idea of what’s happening. That’s less than 1/2 of the miles of the shortest interval I ever sampled at. TBN is missing, the #1 indicator of oil life remaining. Oxidation is also missing. Viscosity is an odd reading at 150. It should be between 12.5 and 16.3 for 40wt oils. Don’t let @Mopar1973Mandisuade you. Very few of these engines go over a million miles without a major overhaul, very few. Use and oil don’t matter, that just a lot of miles for a relatively small displacement motor. I no longer do regular UOA’s since I didn’t find it financially viable. I did like seeing the data and how the engine ran and different results based on different use, but none of that will save me a penny in maintenance. I change my oil once a year or every 15K miles, whichever comes first. I run great oil filters and I call it good. I could probably extend the OCI out, but at the cost of the UOI I may as well just change the oil. There is absolutely a time and place for UOA, but my personal use doesn’t fit that mold.

That is 100% correct in terms of overall engine performance. The engine is tuned around the fuel it was designed to run on. That has nothing to do with what I am referring to as benefits thou. The fuel will still ignite better and burn cleaner at low temp/low load with a slightly higher cetane value even if the overall performance of the engine isn't improved. Bottom line is that higher Cetane means quicker ignition. What the quicker ignition does for the engine depends on a host of parameters. Pro's and Con's to everything. Stock my 05 hated Cetane boost and would knock, but with the tune I ran after the rebuild it would start easier with Cetane boost when COLD soaked. I only use it for 1 or 2 tanks a year when I want the specific benefit, just like cold flow or #1 in the tank.

Simple.. more Cetane is good under certain operating conditions and not as beneficial as during others. Chemically changed the Cetane is not the same as Cetane differences thru refining, so the BTU content of the fuel is not changed the same. Fuel isn't always treaded when you need it to be, or for as cold as you need it to be. If I buy fuel in Boise in October it's not treated but I might head into temps that are approaching 0°F so you can be certain I'm going to treat my fuel. The only thing that I really don't feel a need to be concerned with is lubricity, which has been proven to be adequate based on the average life of the components that care about lubricity. Most owners, the vast majority, don't do anything but add fuel and get great service life from their fuel system. By and large the most common fuel issue is gelling, which has been greatly reduced with dual fuel heaters on the newer Ram's. When the 13+ trucks came out with a software glitch and the aft fuel heater wasn't enabled they had a gelling issue across the fleet... which is still a fuel issue but it can be rectified with heaters. Under the rpm range and normal operating conditions of US diesels Cetante boost isn't going to provide much in the way of quantifiable results for most, but for those with more cold soaked starts in very cold weather, and/or low load operation in cold weather, the cold and low load ignition improvements from Cetane boost are quantifiable. Cetane is higher in the UK, but they also have higher revving diesels than most of the US diesels. More Cetane is needed for high rpm operation.

Aeration is a solution to a problem that doesn’t exist, as is lubricity in most cases. If you look at the sheer numbers of people that don’t ever add anything to their fuel and their average mileage on injectors isn’t any worse, or better. Additives should be used for certain specific purposes, such as Cetane for cold starting and low load use or cold flow improver for unwiterized fuel in cold weather. The rest of the time it’s snake oil, plain and simple.

Pitch meaning thread pitch. It must have changed in 2010?? They do use the same lug nut cone angle.

I had a 1” front level on the 05 and the 4Runner has a 2.5/1” lift. The front of the 4Runner is using the adjustable Bilstiens.

DEF is cheap and worth it, as the alternative is more EGR and that’s a crappy alternative that doesn’t benefit anything. My 18 is generally within 5% (plus/minus) of my 05, which was built, tuned, and dialed in for far better mileage than stock. Stock for stock my 18 is cheaper to operate than my 05 was.

5100’s rode amazing on my 05, and have since put them on the 03 4Runner and my only regret on the Runner was not doing them 15 years ago when we bought it. I have nothing but good things to say about 5100’s. I was set to put them on my TJ but there were lots of bad reviews due to rig weight. Against my better judgment I went with RS5000’s, despite swearing them off 20+ years ago, and have been quite happy. I replaced the POS KYB’s the PO put on so I guess anything would have been an improvement.

It will run down to around 18-20 mph, and then the TQ converter unlocks and the EB disengages.

Hmm, futuristic wheels…. We’re only at Gen 4.5 without using a flux capacitor. IIRC the lug nut pitch changed in 2013.

Enjoy your trip! Dod your dealer ever give you a VIN? I have a friend who ordered a 2022 2 weeks ago and he has a VIN.

After driving 1000 miles in mine last week the boost seems a little low, but only a couple psi at cruise. I cruise quite a bit lower on the rpm band thou. 3.42’s and an AS69RC with taller tires. I think you should be peaking higher, but I don’t know for sure. My 18 is 385/930 and peaks around 28. New motor will take 10-15K miles to break in and get better mileage. What all was replaced?