AH64ID

Interesting, I don't see why it wouldn't work... but I don't see the issue with grease either. I don't buy the grease turning to liquid under normal circumstances, that's simply not true. I have seen grease separate when it's old and of poor quality, but that's not what they are talking about. The grease I run has a dropping point, when it would turn to liquid, of > 540°F. That's not happening on a normal bearing. I did hear back, and no graphite in that grease or any of the greases that Amsoil makes.

I missed that in your first post. That’s not something I’ve read about, and personally wouldn’t do. Plain old wheel bearing grease is fine.

Sounds more like the wrong grease was being used. I’ll have to see if the wheel bearing grease I use contains graphite, but I doubt it as it’s designed for applications with tone rings.

Have you seen this? I have not read about one issue associated with greasing the sealed bearings.

I wouldn’t go that far. Plenty of people get adequate service life from their bearings without ever greasing them.

Looks like that rig sold. Did you buy it? There are very few issues with the hour meters. I know of one truck where idle hours don’t count, and another there the standard EVIC resets every 1,092 hours. It will reset at 1,092 idle hours or 1,092 drive hours, but not combined. If the truck has that EVIC the hours may be off, you can probably figure out the proper hours. I also believe a scan tool can tell you the correct hours. I don’t know of any issue with the larger “premium” EVIC.

I greased the ones on my ‘18, and will do the same on my ‘22. It’s easy and cheap to hopefully extend bearing life. I plan to do it every 30K miles. I also plan to pull the brakes apart and clean/grease the sliding pins at the same interval. They froze up on my 05 and caused uneven pad wear.

Vehicle Nickname: AH64ID's 2022 Date Added To The Garage: 2022-11-23 Garage Link: AH64ID's 2022

I'll be curious what you think of the Banks piece, I also am not a fan of them. Also curious on the grid heater effectiveness. I know we don't need nearly as much heater as comes on these things but the 6.6L uses the grid heater AND glow plugs. I've got 8 years left on my warranty so I doubt I do anything before that.... The only change I am considering is the Thurn high clearance swaybar as that was the only place the tire chains rubbed on my '18.

That sounds more like coincidence than anything then.

The crossover tubes don’t need replaced unless there is a problem. Unless the OP want to install an adjustable boost elbow, as well as boost and EGT gauges then I would likely not run +50’s on a stock CR. Is the motor a Cali, SO, or HO motor? What trans?

Interesting, we’ve had a couple torsion axle trailers and haven’t had that happen. I have seen the spindle bend where it attaches, which can happen torsion or spring. The main thing I don’t like about torsion axles is that they need to be loaded level (not horrible) to have even load distribution, but more importantly loaded to 65% of their rating or more to not ride harsh.

4.0’s are great motors, but the do like to leak. I just did the rear main, oil pan, and valve cover gaskets on mine last month.

I use these in trailer tires, but they are very noisy at low speeds so I don’t recommend them for vehicles.

Yeah it’s rather frustrating and yes comes down to bean counters. It started with 2nd Gen trucks, thou I can’t recall the year. First they were pressure senders but after too much money spent on warranty claims where nothing was wrong (people aren’t used to the large pressure swings of a diesel, 15 at idle and 65 by 2000 rpms) so they would bring their truck in. First software was implemented to reduce the swing of the needle, and then later the pressure transducer was treated like a switch. If memory serves by 2002 the 3 wire transducer was replaced by a 1 wire switch and it’s been that way ever since. They took it a step further and in 2013 added oil temp to the EVIC gauges. It’s 100% algorithm as there isn’t a oil temp transducer anywhere. They did program it fairly well since 90% of the time it reads how I expect after running a oil temp gauge on my 05. Voltage and ECT are also not unaltered signals, but they are accurate enough. These trucks have very few voltage or ECT issues, and even fewer oil psi/temp issues so there isn’t a down side other than the trickery. I rarely look at ECT and never bother with oil psi, oil temp, or voltage.

Dozens of filters that could fit… what part number?

What are you running on the AD?

I can guarantee it’s the same, if ambient and ECT temps are the same. There is a 6 psi switch, no sensor. At startup the ECM uses an algorithm for oil pressure based on ambient temp, ECT, and rpms. Only after 30 seconds of less than 6 psi would you see an difference in the gauge, given the same conditions.

Just a reminder that the oil psi gauge is fake on 3rd gens. It will always show pressure at startup, even if you don’t have it. It takes 30 seconds of no pressure for the dash to indicate the loss of pressure.

The WTS light for injector issues was added more than 10 years ago, but this is the first I’ve heard of it going off with a cracked injector line. The WTS and CEL usually deal with high return flow. I remember when this TSB/software was released. Lots of people thought the software was faulty due to the WTS/CEL that on a good running truck. After a while the software was deemed effective and did accurately indicate high injector return flow. TSB 18-006-02.pdf

Bummer on the injection line. I can’t recall when the updated line/clamp came out, but it’s worth looking into to ensure that’s what you get. Keep the #4 line tight. I never had an issue, but it was one of the few spares I carried. I wouldn’t change all 6, just the failed one. Going back to your first post in this thread, don’t waste your money on a cold air intake. I haven’t seen one yet that does better that the OEM intake, and if you need more air do the Home Depot mod. I did lots, and lots, of dirt road driving with my 05 and the stock box/Home Depot mod and dirt/dust was never an issue, I did the UOA to show it. The OEM 4” pleat filter has the best flow and dirt holding capacity of them all, it’s rumored to be built by Wix and since you’re a Wix Napa fan that’s good. My 05 ran 415/850 to the rear wheels with a cam/turbo combo that moved a lot more air than the stock setup and I would easily get 30K miles out of the 4” filter and not suck the filter minder down. I could suck it down on the stock setup with the OE 2” filter and no Home Depot mod.

The 33585XE is the Wix 7um filter, but when you look at the specs it’s 7um nominal. It’s a 8um absolute filter. That’s the kind of false advertising Wix does on diesel fuel filters and it’s ridiculous, IMO. It’s the same filter they have for the CR 5.9’s, which require a 7um absolute filter… not that they have warranties anymore, but the wix filter didn’t meet the min spec for warranty, but eluded to it with their nominal rating. Anyhow, thats my Wix rant. On a 2nd Gen the 8um is plenty of filtration. That being said the Baldwin PF7977 is the best filter for the stock housing. 5um absolute with better than OEM f/w separation and dirt holding capabilities.

The math method is easy, but usually nets a slightly higher pressure that the published load and inflation tables. I keep a downloaded copy on my phone with my tire sizes highlighted. https://www.toyotires.com/media/2125/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20170203.pdf Based on your weights and the chart I’d personally run 55/35 summer and 50/30 winter. 2nd gens are light! My 18 was 5250/3300 empty coming home from the dealership with just me in it. Now the daily empty weight is closer to 5450/3550. I run 50/25 around town in the winter. LT275/70R18.

How is this new job going?

It was 11° at my house yesterday too, and windy (12-15). Cold! It’s a bit warmer this morning at 15° and no wind