rynsc100

Little over 2 weeks, and no issues. I did have it come back for a day, but it was related to transmission fluid levels. Filled er' up and it went away. Gotta hunt the source of that leak For those that are curious, I talked to Nations about their alternator for the 2nd gen Cummins, PN: 13302-180HP It's only 289.95 for the 180amp alternator. I would recommend going this way. It doesn't have the cool ionized metal casing but it will do the job. Just gotta call them to send you a paypal invoice since it's not on their website.

UPDATE: Changed the alternator with a ProAmp new alternator PN: 13302N, and kept the brand new rectifier off the reman, in case this one starts acting up. The new diodes made the reman not as harsh with the lock/unlock, but it still happened early in the morning. When I tore into the reman, the slip ring and brushes were NOT new or replaced, they had wear on them. Still too early to tell cause it took the reman about 4-5 days to show signs of wear. The for sure sign of an alternator going is by pulling the fuse, period. The alternator I had was showing a stable 0.027-0.031 VAC at idle, 0.051 with errything turned on, but I did notice before I replaced the reman, there were spikes going all the way up to 0.113 VAC with stuff on. I do need to test the AC from the new alternator, but I am hopeful.

Definitely the way to go. Has Nationals Alternator said they would even source out their diode packs? - Other option I'm considering Now I'm going to go root around for an Alternator field lead check in your Articles

Yeah, I guess the next biggest problem with the torque converter lock/unlock is sourcing a reliable alternator, huh? I noticed on my particular reman they state they only swap the brushes, and bearings and test everything else. I changed out the rectifier, I'm wondering if it's something else in there. Lke the slip ring :/ I'm going to call up the alternator shop and have them bring in the 100% new unit, and swap out the reman. Or I'm considering a PA alternator, but the whole couple day shipping thing is my biggest concern. Darn DD

I've done all of the tricks to fix the hunt but it always comes back. I was having issues, and I swapped my alternator with a reman, ended up being tranny fluid level. Then the new alternator started acting up a few days later and made it shift worse than my stock denso. I replaced the rectifier in the alternator with a brand new one (or so I'm told.) Alternator tests ACV 0.032v idle, and spikes 0.089v @ 2500rpm, but sits around 0.052v at 2500rpm. The hunt does go away with pulling the fuse, so I'm guessing something else in that alternator is causing the hunt, but definitely can't see it on my DVM. Thinking about replacing the reman with a new alternator from the same place, World Power Systems. How do you keep your alternator from acting up, Michael? I just bought 2 new batteries for an unrelated problem, but could those be the cause? - New battery cables as well.