Florin1

I think I read that for the driver side seal you don't have to remove carrier. Hats what I'm trying to figure out. Because passenger side isn't leaking

Probably cz I'm cooking this fluid too. Haha. But it's actually not that dark.

Anyone?

Ok. So IBM, I went through your checklist. Made it to 7. I don't seem to get fluid movement in MC. I took 2 videos I'll attempt to post. One with engine off, rapid press, then eng. on rapid press. Engine off ENg on Also, another curious thing I noticed is my cap's little rubber diaphragm is extended out. I pushed it back in yesterday, and today, it's out again.

Hey gents. So after doing my front brakes, now I have a leak from the LF axle. ? If it's not one thing, it's another. Having said that, how do I change out he seal? Do I REALLY have to pull the front diff cover, along with the ring and pinion? Seems ridiculous. And I don't want to mess with shimming and lashes. Any tips? Thanks

Momentary switch? I just used a napa toggle. Is that not right?

No I have not modified the VB. I'll poke the OR/Blk wire at the pcm and poke the switch wire to see if there's continuity. I guess that will tell me if I spliced into the right wire. How should I operate the switch once I figure out if it's working or not? On streets, OD off, wait till i get up to 35mph and then flip the switch? Or does the tc switch not have a purpose unless I'm on the freeway in OD? Also my ground is right no? I didn't have to ground into an actual ground wire. Body is fine?

So I installed a tc lockup switch last night, and I'm not sure where I went wrong. I followed the tst website link but it doesn't seem to work. My truck junction box looks a little different than the one in his schematic but I'm pretty sure I did it right. Here is what the truck is doing. First, with overdrive off, I'll get the truck to second gear, and flip the switch on, and nothing different happens. It'll shift up to next gear as I increase speed. Then I can come to a full stop and the truck doesn't want to stall or anything. Or I can be cruising at 35, and punch it and he truck will downshift. The only thing that seems to be different is if switch is off, and I get on the freeway and up to speed, and then flip it on, it seems to be locked. I can floor it and it won't downshift. But if I come to a stop like getting off the freeway, and I leave switch on, it still acts like switch is off. Like I can come to a full stop and it won't stall or anything. Then I can accelerate as normal. Was I supposed to ground out my switch to a ground wire or something? I found the orange and black wire at the ecm (my ecm connectors look slightly different as well. I have female end that plugs into male pins on the ecm) and followed it into the main harness along the firewall to the driver side where it comes out of the main harness. I tapped it there with one of those splitter snap connectors. Ran that through the firewall and to my switch and connected that end to the "on" terminal of my 2 post switch. The ground/off post I just grounded the to the metal structure behind instrument cluster. As for the junction box, I just pulled the trans relay, and jumped the two parallel posts, not the 3 post side. Where did I go wrong? Thanks

I have not flushed power steering. IBM I'll try those steps when I get home. Such better tips on this site versus CF. haha.

Hey guys. Think I'll start a new thread in my current issue. I'm chasing down my dragging calipers issue. I thought my initial problem was from my 5th wheel, but it's obviously not. That thread is here So here is the problem I'm experiencing. My front brakes drag hard. To the point where I can spit on my rotors and have the spit sizzle off. This is just under normal driving with very light brake application. Mostly highway. I thought I had siezed calipers so I serviced the truck this weekend only to find problem still there. Here's what I replaced. Bought new front calipers and pads, new rotors, and new brake lines, and on the rear I got new cylinders. Also new fluid flush. Bled brakes once I was done. Bedded new brakes properly. After two days of driving, I noticed I am still dragging. I'd like to get to the bottom of this before I screw up my new brakes. Heres my initial diagnosis. I notice if I depress my brake pedal, the pedal comes back up kinda slowly. It doesn't just snap back. I can also see my tail lights stay on for a second or two after I release brake pedal. With the truck off, I pumped the pedal a few times and hold it down with moderate pressure and then start the truck. Pedal sinks a little further, but doesn't "push back". That's as far as I made it. Thoughts? Thanks.

What fluid? Just dot-3,4? Or some expensive stuff? Also, should I be looking into new wheel bearings? Since it looks like I'm gonna be tearing into he hub?

Hmm. So you think I should flush my system first thing before I even pull off the old parts? That's a good idea. Probably waste 1 pint of fluid... but no biggie

Yup. The pads have contact with disc the whole time.

UPDATE: I put new to me wheels on today. They're 1" smaller. But in the process of removing my front wheels I noticed that both of the front wheels are REALLY hard to spin. Right side a little harder than LH. Both were pretty hard to spin though. I had to use both arms to rotate the wheels. So obviously this explains some of my towing issue. So, any ideas what's causing BOTH calipers to drag? I understand 1, but both? I'm ordering new calipers, pads, brake lines, 1 ton GM cylinders for rear, and rotors from napa tomorrow. But I'd like to find/know the cause of this so I don't have it happening again in 10k miles. Also, I'll probably flush all the fluid too. Any tips on that? Thanks y'all.

Yeah I realize that. A bummer. But the price on these wheels is hard to pass up.

So I found a set of wheels here locally and talked lady down to DIRT CHEAP. Like $50 for all 4. Tire size is 265/70/17. Will that bring me down to a better ratio? There's about 30% left on the rubber. I like the 17" wheel idea in case I ever do upgrade to the 3rd gen brakes. I don't know the formula for figuring out that rotational size deal.

1. So on the suggested gauges, do they come with everything needed to install? Like the egt sensor? Nipple for tapping into a boost line, FP sensor? 2. I don't know if my truck has a rear loader leveling rod... it's a 8800lb gvw. 3. I just serviced my tranny a month ago. Replaced the fluid and adjusted the two bands. Truck is at ~240k. 4. Notlimah- I'm fairly positive it's my driver side caliper. The truck pulled before I ever towed, and was way more noticeable yesterday when I towed. And when I got home there was visibly more brake dust on LF wheel than the rest. It also smelled very hot. And this morning on my way to work it's more noticeable post trailer towing. I might be dragging that caliper. Now that I think about it, the previous owner said he replaced a caliper, I just can't remember which one. So I'm wondering if it's a recurring problem. 5. So if I'm gonna buy new calipers rotors and pads, what you guys recommend? Just reman calipers and what pads? Thanks. 6. Yes I have the 3.54 gear ratio. And I turned off OD as I approached the hill anticipating it. I probably had my foot down to 80-90% throttle by the time I got to the top. 7. Haha, no crazy flat bill mods. Just exhaust and air filter. Although I'm thinking of doing that TC lockup switch mod next. I got a big camping trip planned for Memorial Day. It's a 200 mile drive up through a mountain pass. 4000' elevation. So I wanna get the truck ready for that. 8. I'll check brake lines to make sure there's no pinching. Do you have a link to the chevy cylinders upgrade? Or is it literally just swapping out cylinders? Thank you all for all the input so far guys. This is all good info. Keep it coming.

So what's my option. Just buy reman calipers and new slotted rotors? Also I saw somewhere mentioned that I. An use chevy 1 ton cylinders in the rear? Any info on that? Those things are cheap! Michael. I really appreciate your input and time you took to explain. And when it's time for new tires, I'll downsize. But these tires are in really good condition so I'm not gonna toss em. But say if I go to a 17" wheel, what is the correct tire size for my truck? As for the gages, what do you guys run? Where did you buy? Part numbers?

Thanks for the input so far. Will update sig no idea how to update sig.

Not really virgin but am to this truck and trailer. (I've towed a 20 something foot wells cargo with a 460cc Ford when I did roofing). Anyway, here are my questions. I just picked up a 33' fifth wheel travel trailer. Dual axles, 8400lbs dry. My truck. 98.5 24v with a bhaf and 4" straight pipe. 285/16 tires. 1. On the way home the truck had a hard time on hills. For example. Went from 65mph down to 45mph on a moderate grade hill. About a half mile long hill. Rpms were about 2800 the whole way up the hill and I was slightly worried about what egt's might have been. I do not have any gages. 2. I had adjusted trailer brakes from my controller to just shy of lockup. I hit my brakes on the freeway (light to moderate pressure) and the truck pulled hard to the right halfway onto the shoulder. Kinda scary. Then right by my house I have a medium slope hill coming down to the house and it's only a 1/4 mile long, yet when I got to the bottom, there was a very strong brake smell. I inspected the truck and trailer, and my driver front wheel was very dark with dust and smelled horrible. Other side was fine. So, I need some input. 1. I would love to upgrade my brakes, but after researching a bit, I guess I can't put the 3rd gen calipers on my truck. Sad. What's the next best thing? I wanna get new calipers pads and rotors. 2. Should my truck struggle this hard towing at my power level and weight? If yes. Then what can I do and how much? I was thinking about getting a smarty and some 75lbs injectors. What other supporting mods do I need. Brands and prices? Probably an egt and tranny temp gage? (I don't really hot rod the truck so will my 47re take it?) All input is welcomed. Thank you.

Yeah they're called canopies here in the north west. And yeah it's like 300 lbs.

Hello guys. So my ram has a canopy which I love, but am probably going to go with a 5th wheel for my travel trailer. Having said that, I'm looking for ideas on a clever way to remove my canopy. I want it to be easy to do, so I can go back and forth from open to covered. I've heard of an elaborate pulley system. I'd like to see some ideas of what y'all have. Parts and prices photos and links are a plus. I'm not afraid to build something. I just need ideas. Thanks.

Fixed! Ended up being the ground wire at the relay block. It was not seated all the way and got pushed out when I put the relay in. Last little problem is, the HB indicator bulb stays lit at all times weather on HB/LB with the wires jumped at the DRL. So I just unjumped the wires and the light is gone all together. I can live with that. The DRL doesn't seem to interfere with anything else. I just don't have DRL anymore, which I don't mind. Daniel Stern said here's a $59 module to buy if you want DRL again. Also, all my unanswered emails to him came back as undelivered. So there must be a problem on his end. 1998.5 2500 Extended cab. Auto Oh and i confirmed my system to be normal ground. Unlike the 99+.

Bump this up. Need more input. So I finally finished my harness, a big THANK YOU to ManualTrans over on CF for taking pictures of his harness and giving me something to follow and built the harness per Daniel Stern harness kit. Here are the problems: I only have HB (high beam) on the 9004 bulbs (inboard). If I pull the switch to turn on my lights (I have the older pull style switch) the dash lights up normal (including HB indicator light not normal) and the park lights come on but no headlights. I can hit the HB and they do come on, but only on the 9004 inboard bulbs like I said before, and not on the 9007. My truck is Canadian Spec with the DRL. I followed the procedure of cutting the wire at the module red/or & red/gy, and connected the two at the socket to make a jumper. But it didn't change anything. Now... I assume my truck is ground switching system and that's how the harness is wired up to take. BUT when I put my test light on the neg terminal on battery, and test each individual wire at the body harness side, I don't have any power to any of the wires. But when I turn lights to on, I get power... so does this mean my system is not ground switch? Any help/input is appreciated. Daniel Stern is not answering any of my emails so I'm left high and dry on the customer support.

Update: 2/3/17 I've read through his "install instructions" and I get lost. I drew a picture of what I understood. I'm not sure what I'm doing with the stock harness. Which is my trigger wires? How do they hook up? Which wires in the whole system am I Ying (joining) together and going to what post. The 9004 bulbs are currently hooked up and is how I'm driving the truck till I get the wiring harness done. 12 gage wires everywhere?