nwilliams

That's very impressive. Thanks very much for all of the information. I was worried my VP44 was kicking the bucket, but in Alabama this is the first time that I've seen 7 degrees in my life, and for sure with my Cummins.

That does make me feel a lot better. I've let the anti gel sit over night and idled. It went a little rough on the way to work but smooth as butter on the way home and a little driving after. Do you not use anti gel because it is bad, or do you just not need it? I have not read much about it. I believe this was my issue. Thanks a lot for the quick response.

My truck has been driving fine up until the very second the issue happened. No hard start, no smells, no nothing. Its been in the teens-low 20's here for the last two weeks but I keep my truck plugged in when I can. Im running a beans diesel sump, Airdog lift pump, stock VP44, stock injectors, stock turbo. Truck is an automatic 4x4 with 183,000 miles. Transmission replaced 3,000 miles ago. The issue: I was coming down a stretch of highway at 55mph, and had been for 20 miles, and the truck suddenly starting choking down and missing. I pulled over in a parking lot and could barely move the truck without it nearly dying. I went 50 feet, put it in park to listen to it idle, and the RPM's varied from 900-700 and suddenly dropping very low (500 maybe?). I put it in drive and the truck died before it even moved. Would rollover very strong but gave no hint to try and start. Got a tow truck to haul it to my house and hopped in my spare car. Got back home that night, let the air dog run for 30 seconds, turned the truck over for probably 10 seconds and it started. Idled completely normal with no strange RPM's. Drove the truck around the block a few times, getting up to 55mph in some places, and the truck behaved completely normal. Once I got home and the truck had gotten warm, the RPM's went back to going crazy. Not to the extent as early that day, but not normal. I have not driven the truck as far as 5 miles since due to fear of it shutting off once getting warm. This happened 3 days ago. What would cause this to happen only when the truck is warm? Im getting a good steady 15 psi of fuel pressure. I have a new fuel filter on the way just to rule that out. I have also added some Diesel Supplement Wintergizer thinking maybe the filter got some gunk in it? Any suggestions would be great. I would typically let my normal diesel mechanic help me out but he seems to be covered up.

It seems that this issue is not nearly as noticeable when the truck is cold in the mornings. When I drive it a few miles and everything gets warm, then it has a noticeable loss of power. I am starting to wonder if my new alternator has not just caused different symptoms from what I was having?

Does anyone know where everything plugs into the junction block? For example, if an interior light was shorting, could I unplug it directly from the junction block to resolve my issue? If so, does anyone know what the pins are for everything?

Correct, max boost has not changed. I have not tested this WOT.

Thought I made a signature, but I must not have. My truck is a 1998.5 extended cab 4x4 auto with a mechanically stock motor. I do have an Edge Comp and and AirDog 150 along with a cold air intake and 4" exhaust. Transmission is pretty fresh with some upgraded internals. I am monitoring boost from a boost gauge probed to one of the "boost bolt adapters" in the intake manifold. I am getting 30PSI max boost in overdrive, so I am assuming that is what the wastegate has been turned to along with an aftermarket boost elbow. The turbo/chip setup was on the truck when I purchased it, so I do not know for sure.

I don't. I still have to trace my wires for my IOD fuse, because as of now I don't even have an OBDII port.

I am really unsure. If the previous owner never replaced them, then they have 178,000 on them, but I do not know if they have ever been replaced. The VP44 looks to be replaced, but once again I am unsure of the mileage.

Hey guys, My truck has suddenly felt like it has lost a crazy amount of power. It is not as noticeable until the torque converter locks in overdrive and the truck feels like a turd. Also, when the truck is warm and idling in park it has an intermittent miss/popping sound,which goes away when put into gear. This sound has occurred for about 2 years now, so I haven't thought much of it. Would you guys think this would be the injectors finally wearing out or the VP getting ready to die? I have no codes. Shift points have also gotten noticeably longer, as it will ride 3rd gear forever now. I have pressure tested my Airdog 150 and everything comes out as spec since it is the 15 PSI model. I also have a boost gauge and at WOT I can still hit 30 PSI of boost but I still have nowhere near as much power as about a week ago, Which is why I think it could be fuel related.

So one of these is shorted or grounded out? Thanks for the diagram. I will try and trace these wires to see if I can find my issue.

Hey guys, I've had this issue since I bought the truck, but the IOD fuse keeps blowing and I don't know why. I do know that this fuse runs the OBDII port and several lights. I have checked all of the light connections and nothing seems to be shorting out. Can anyone throw out some more advice on why this fuse would be blowing?

It is basically a master rebuild kit with some billet internals like accumulator and band strut and anchor and I believe this kit is one that has been designed to hold an extra clutch and steel per clutch pack. The item number is 1062003. I also have a B&W deep pan with a BD single disk billet converter and a Derale 15900 cooling it all. I do also have a Transgo shift kit installed. My main concern is the input shaft needing to be upgraded due to the added power with a shift kit. I don't know from experience, but I have heard the shift kits will break shafts even at fairly low power.

I'm running an edge comp with a 47re that has BD stage 3 build kit installed. Do you think the RV275s would make enough extra power with this setup that I would need to reconsider more transmission work?

Do the RV275's smoke any? I'm having the same issue and would like to get some, but I don't want a ton of smoke.

The new Bosch alternator did fix my issue 100%. I don't smell any fluid or anything like that, but I would hope not as I installed a Derale 15900 trans cooler under the bed just a few weeks ago and verified that I had no leaks. Thanks for all of the advice! I had just never heard of this specific of a consistent issue with the alternator problems, so if anyone else is fighting this just put a new alternator on!

I have reset the APPS the other day and that did not help. My alternator has some burnt looking internals after further inspection. I am putting a NEW Bosch alternator on it today and will post the results.

I'm not going to eliminate the thought of a faulty converter, but when it locks, it locks very solid. Really doesn't seem like a mechanical issue.

Hey guys, this is my first post but I have read a lot on this forum and have found help several times here. My issue now seems to be something in the electrical system causing some weird torque converter symptoms. First off, I have a 1998.5 Dodge 2500 4x4 24 valve with 177,000 miles and a 47re that has been built with a BD Stage 3 kit along with a single disk billet converter that has roughly 22,000 miles on it. It has ran flawlessly up until about a week ago. My issue is very consistent. I can take off with normal throttle from a stop and the transmission will shift perfectly 1st through 4th gear and the torque converter will lock perfectly at around the 45 MPH mark (not sure of exact speed due to 35" tires and speedo not being calibrated), and from there I can accelerate to highway speeds anywhere from 50 - 65 miles an hour with no issue. My issue occurs the second that I let off the throttle and let it idle as if I were coming to a stop and braking. The torque converter will unlock as normal, but for instance if I am going 60 mph and let the throttle go idle for even a split second and then give it more throttle to continue driving, the torque converter never even thinks about locking back up, it will simply rev high in 4th gear and drive. If I do come to a stop (or slow enough to downshift into 3rd), I can resume and shift back into 4th and the torque converter will once again lock until I get off the throttle. Basically, the converter will not lock more than one instance per 4th gear shift. It has never done this before, as normal operation would be that the torque converter locks back up after resuming throttle. My truck has two brand new batteries less than a month old with new and cleaned terminals and I have verified that all plugs on the transmission are clean and firmly pressed into each socket and all grounds are properly connected. Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.