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    Harlingen, Texas

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  1. tonyjsan


  2. I'm looking at pulling the trigger on a RAM 3500 dualy, 2018 with 6.7 and the asin. I have a 2002 2500 with 5.9 5 speed I have no plans of getting rid of. My reason for posting is just some general feedback on folks who might have 2018 or earlier and/or general feedback on the 6.7, such as reliability, performance stock (I plan to keep this one all stock, for now), any experiences with this truck good / bad etc. Thanks in advance
  3. Thanks to everyone for sharing, their thoughts ideas etc. Here is the plan I'll be pursuing. I'm not going for a new truck, my reasons for this cost, cost and cost, for the truck and maintenance once out of warranty, seems each generation of truck get’s more complicated and expensive to work on for parts etc. I know the 5.9 enough to get into trouble and just enough to get out of trouble most of the time lol and I will be expecting this truck to carry me many a mile pulling a 13k 5’er once I retire Soon I will begin what I’m calling a “restorative” process for lack of a better word. I’ll be replacing various items that age clearly says, must be changed. I just got a 2004 Dakota with 5 speed with 81k miles i’ll be using that as my daily driver while I work on my 02. I’ve classified the work by safety first and reliability, so here is some of the stuff I’ll be doing Rebuild and/or replacement of front suspension (bushings, ball joints, coil springs etc), steering items, Sway bar bushings links front and back, leaf spring bushings, all of this is still factory original, still debating Energy Suspension Kit, Moog or whoever lol Then on engine, tappet cover gasket, VP44 (has 200k+ miles on this vp44, still runs fine, so coin toss on this one, being to my knowledge no real way to test vp44), Vacuum Pump (replace or seals), power steering pump. Feedback welcomed, thanks in advance.
  4. 2002 Dodge RAM 2500HD, 5speed (about 250,000+ miles), The truck is pushing 16+ years, is it realistic to expect another 16+ years out of a 2002? The truck has not been abused during it's life, modified for better mpg and towing performance of a 5th wheel RV, nothing crazy. New trucks are expensive, on the other hand I want something I don't have to work on once retired in the near future. I would have to spend $$ on needed restorative type work etc., but after work done no monthly payments lol. Wondering if anyone else has been or is at this crossroad, and would be willing share thoughts pro/cons as one considers keeping the 2002 or get new truck. Thanks in advance. Hope this correct place to post this type question.
  5. Nice!!! I've been looking for a vendor to purchase replacement bezel and the dash pad, Thanks for the share, now I can get the bezel and new radio, my bezel is so worn out, I know it will fall to pieces soon as I try to pull it off.
  6. Over the course of 5 years (and lots $$$$$), I’ve had to replace 2 sb clutch’s, and hydraulics. Prior to all this I had a stock clutch, not sure what the brand is but i’ve been told it was probably a Luk clutch. I would also state I do my own repairs however, I don’t have the tools or place to due a diy job like clutch replacement so I have to rely on a shop, finding a shop where I live that know’s what the hell they are doing is a huge challenge. First SB clutch I had installed was a DD, based on my research and recommendations from the shop they advised I go with a DD, so I did. Immediately after the DD was installed there where shifting issues, blocking / resistance going into gear grinding, basically acted like clutch was not releasing as it should. The shop that sold me the clutch said that the shifting issues etc, where normal cause of the heavier clutch, takes longer to spin down etc. The shop that did the work refused to pull the transmission and inspect for possible damage as a result of the shop installing the clutch wrong. I finally called SB and talked to someone called Peter (despite the very bad experience I’vd had with SB clutch, I give SB credit for having a very knowledgeable staff person, Peter.). After telling Peter like 1 issue I was having he immediately rattled off the problems I had been having. I was sent a new 13”single disk clutch kit, free, I still had to get the thing installed more $$$$. The Single disk (sd) clutch worked for little over year then I started to have same / similar issues, blocking clutch release issues and slipping towards the end. Also about this time I had to replace the transmission as the synchro where bad (I suspect the faulty clutch(s) accelerated the wear), and another set of hydraulics. After the re-build transmission was installed the SD clutch failed big time, to get the truck in gear I would have to shut the engine off, put in gear re-start while sitting in traffic. The blocking was bad as well as an odd vibration. I believe the SD clutch had a broken hub spring or was warped. With all this said, as a consumer I have a bad taste for South Bend products, as well as the local shop that originally did the work for me. Myself I will never buy another SB product, however I do give SB credit in the customer service department, based on my conversation with Peter at SB. The lesson I’ve learned and my opinion for what it’s worth, is unless running a crazy amount of HP / torque DD clutches are not worth the money, a good single disk works just as good, even stock, as I’ve gone back to the stock clutch. I am also not running a lot of hp/torque, with edge comp on 4 maybe 350hp, 760 torque. If I ever go over that, then I’ll re-evaluate the stock clutch choice.
  7. I've not posted about the issue(s) I had with the SB stuff.
  8. I just had the clutch replaced last week, so i've not had a chance to tow, but I head out for my summer travels in May. I can accelerate hard with edge comp on 4 no slippage (obviously no RV hooked up). Before I went down the SB road, I had stock clutch pulling 13k 5th wheel with edge comp, I never had an issue. Ironically that was 1 of the many issues with the SB clutch that I just replaced that was not even 2 years, it was slipping under hard acceleration
  9. Yep, over past 4 years have had 2 South Bend clutches and 3 sets of there hydraulics, all failed within year to year and half. I don't abuse my truck, it's daily driver and pull 13k RV. In addition I suspect the faulty clutches also contributed to having to replace transmission as well.
  10. I've never run a lot of mod's, just Comp Edge at 4 all the time, at the 275 injectors, and few other small mods. I went down the road of the so called stronger better clutch, it's been costly and frustrating, from my perspective, never again on South Bend, it's garbage (yes I know lot's out there swear by it but I've had nothing but problems, as they say mileage varies). I went back to a stock clutch, if I ever get crazy with the power beyond what I have i'll re-look at the clutch.
  11. Thanks for the information, helped out on what I was going to do in regards to a clutch. Finally my long painful and costly mistake of using anything South Bend clutch is gone!!!!! Yeah!!!!
  12. Does anyone know what the torque and hp rating is on a stock clutch?
  13. Socket size is 40mm, on 2wd. Anyone know what the torque specs is for front axle nut 2wd?
  14. I've had a front bearing go out on my way home from my summer Campground host job, new hubs ordered. My question, what is the socket size for front hub nut? Searches have shown all kinda sizes mostly for 4wd, of 1 11/16, 43mm etc. I will need to buy a socket, largest I have is 1 1/2 and it's to small.
  15. @jlwelding Did you get your nv4500 from Allstate gear in San Antonio? Was curious what your experience was with them. I'm looking a new tran or rebuild tran, as syncros are bad on 3rd gear on mine, getting worse. San Antonio is closest place to me for that sort of thing.
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