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01cummins4ever

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01cummins4ever last won the day on May 31 2020

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  • Location (City, State)
    Dolores Colorado

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  1. And just think, $100,000 sticker price for the average diesel is just around the corner, Although some of the high end trim levels are pushing that figure 22k is what I gave for my 01 in January of 03, it came with a whopping 20k miles and a warranty along with hail damage , 350k later it’s got more hail damage and a few dings
  2. I read that too, along with a few other directions and YouTube’s, but all in all once you tear into it, it goes fairly easy, I done mine in the middle of winter when the garage was packed full of stuff so maneuvering around was kind of tight, I chose to mount the duct work to the dash before installing it in the truck, unless your like stretch Armstrong and can snake your hands underneath the dash, but it wasn’t happening for me. Here’s a couple pics on fastening the duct work I first removed it from the main heater core box, then cleaned it up and mounted it to new dash before installing it in the truck, If I remember right their is 3 or 4 screws that are fairly easy accessible to remount ducting back to main hvac box
  3. They rent diesel trucks all day long , I lost my tranny in Kansas City a couple years ago, In the 01 towing a boat to Indiana, I had to finish my trip so I rented a truck while having the tranny rebuilt, I tried to get a half ton because that’s all I needed, but no hitch on the half tons, a few rams and F 150,s. I had to upgrade to the 3/4 ton, they had 1 sitting their. a 2019 dodge w/Cummins and it had 30 whole miles on it, still had the paper floor mats lol, but it cost me deeply too, no playing around,
  4. Kinda makes you wonder if this was a rental truck, like from enterprise or something, They are known to take hitches off so people don’t tow with them, The mileage is in line with their trade out criteria too
  5. Thank you @Mopar1973Man and the others that keep this site rolling , as for badges
  6. I take it that the Geno’s dash bezel is not a slip over but a full replacement?
  7. This is probably covered in the Mopar Dodge Chrysler forum.
  8. Glad you got it figured out, that is a clean looking truck
  9. Did you re seal the entire roof with Dicor, and if so did you do the two part system with the pre cleaner, just wondering as I’m getting ready to re seal my roof, it’s showing signs of weather cracking and discolored, just want to get at it before it gets to bad
  10. No pic at the moment, but I have 3/4 inch deflection in the belt on both sides with it in the relaxed position, I’ll try and check it later the way the directions state
  11. I can’t see the pic, it won’t show up on my phone, but here is the belt adjustment instructions from fuel boss ) Setting Belt Tension: Slide pump to center under the harmonic balancer. Install the timing belt around small pulley then around large pulley. Adjust the pump so that there is JUST ENOUGH tension to keep the belt teeth engaged. Proper tension for the belt is LOOSE. While this may seem odd, this is a cogged timing belt and requires zero tension to stay engaged. Grab the pulley on the pump and rotate it to place tension on one side of the belt. There should be a loose bow to the non-tension side of the belt. If in doubt, looser is better! Any tension on the belt will cause early pump wear and seal failure. Pumps that show shaft wear from over tension will not be covered under warranty.
  12. No, I'm not running the hobbs switch or even a secondary lift pump, I would try and bypass the hobbs system and see if that tells you something, here is a diagram of my set up, It seems to me if you have a failure in the hobbs switch you will force fuel to run through your stock lift pump, although your fuel pressure seem to be acceptable it shouldn't be dropping on acceleration
  13. Not quite sure on the Hobbs switch but I can see the potential for issues, I think @IBMobileruns that set up and keeps it deactivated, He can probably fill you in on that, I just run straight mechanical, and an old school draw straw in the tank outside the basket and no needle valve, just a snubber, fuel pressure jumps to 16 the second engine fires, been going strong for several years
  14. I would think a band adjustment would be in order. Most likely the external adjustment bolt on outside of transmission, controls the 2nd gear shift I believe, It’s quite critical on the tolerance, I had the same issue as you describe on my first transmission, unfortunately the band was wore to far for adjustment
  15. The only one I got is in the thread that Ibmoblie posted, Its kind of tight with a short bed, If you do not have the spare tire you would have all kinds of room
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