Jump to content


Gold Member
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


01cummins4ever last won the day on April 19 2019

01cummins4ever had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

319 Trustworthy

Personal Information

  • Location
    Dolores Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

1,347 profile views
  1. These look like a direct bolt on for our 2nd gen. Looking at the install instructions for these it looks like they sit directly on rear axle and connect to inside of frame, that’s kind of what I’m looking for. @Towrigdually how did your install go, any issues?
  2. I would not live without my fuel canister heater, it’s the stock one for the 2001 24v. The first place to prevent gelling is the filter, being that’s the first place fuel is going to gel, running a 8 micron filter vs. a 2 micron helps Im also big on fuel treatment , the diesel Kleen in white bottle works for me, ( but do your research on them) being most stations around here treat to about -15F. I just like to add a little extra assurance. mixing #1 diesel with your #2 diesel will also help but at the same time drys out your fuel from lubercation. When distributors mix their winter blend all they are doing is mixing #1with #2, usually at about 20 to 30% #1. but then again depends where you get your fuel, probably 90% of the people behind the counter dont have a clue what they are selling.
  3. Thanks for the link DF, it looks like yours mount on that perch on block ? The ones I’m looking at looks to mount directly on axle, maybe I’m missing something
  4. I am in need of getting some air bags installed due to my load requirements these days, I am running close to the max payload on my fifth wheel pin weight and have noticed handling and stability issues that I didn’t have before on my older configuration. anyway I have been looking and not to break the bank going to keep it simple for now and maybe get the on board air and controller later if I feel the need. For now I carry air compressor in my fiver so I do have access to air if out in the boonies. I have looked at these linked below, anybody have any experience with these or some similar. They both claim that they don’t work with fifth wheel configurations but I called them about that and they said they will work with some extra drilling? https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6537 https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32082
  5. That’s because they are not designed for 27/7 use. If your looking for the long term you need to go solar and use the generator for back up charging Anymore I think it’s a blessing when the power goes out, we don’t mind being unplugged from society. We just use the kerosine lamps and the wood stove burns 24/7 anyway so we always have heat. I used to have a cheap 3500w generator that would power up the well and that thing could be heard a mile away, but if craped out and I haven’t replaced it yet, I think they sell them at harbor freight for like 300 bucks new. My Honda eu2000 is not enough to power the well. If it’s a true emergency we have a river running through our front yard so water is always available . Winter time it’s a little tough to find running water being it’s froze over, but would be doable if needed.
  6. 0 degrees F. Is my cut off point to plug my truck in, and with that I will only plug in for a couple hours before I start it, ( the block heater will run the electric bill up in a hurry) it will start at -5 or -10 without plugging in but I like to give it a little help in those temps yet I don’t want it to become addicted to the cord if you know what I mean. Cant help you on that but maybe @Mopar1970man will chime in
  7. Although 14 F. shouldn’t be to difficult for a start, you may try letting the grids cycle twice before you start it, without further diagnose it may help in the meantime. you can check the heating element in the air intake by checking for 12v when grid is activated and then should go to zero as soon as grid is cycled off, The housing should also be warm to the touch if heating element is working, and it looks like @dripley sneaked in while I was typing again, but you get the picture
  8. That is a lot of filter for our application. That primer will come in handy to fuel it up when servicing, but it looks like it will do the job, I believe that’s a 4 micron filter. Although I don’t think it would work for me, being that I need the heated fuel canister for the winter time I do like having the ability to drain water in the factory canister too. But in 18 years I’ve never seen the water in fuel light on either and I have tested it to see if it works and it does.
  9. A dual feed gas/propane would be nice to have but would depend on your readily available fuel source . Gasoline will be more reliable in the fridged temps, propane might be stubborn to start at temps below -10 F. and not start at all at -20 F. In a true emergency I would rather have gasoline at least it’s more readily available, We do have a propane fired generator at one of our remote shops where I work it’s a big Cummins generator powered by a 460 ford converted to propane and is inside of shop. It’s plumbed into a 500 gallon propane tank that’s used to heat the shop and hard wired in with a transfer switch that auto trips and starts the second the main power fails. Its never failed to start except once when the propane tank was empty, It’s a nice set up, but very expensive. and very loud too. you don’t want to be inside that shop very long when that thing is running at wot.
  10. Following, but listening to your original video and all the different possibilities, just can’t pin point it. Maybe you can shoot us a better video, I had a hard time hearing the first one,
  11. @wil440 Do you mind sharing what filter head and filter you use? I have been pondering with installing a hand primer at the inlet of stock canister, not a pressing issue, but one of these days will get around to it. Just haven't found one yet That looks simple enough to install I haven’t had the need to prime when I change filters, I just drain the factory canister before I remove the old filter then put the new one in dry, then fire truck up, their is enough fuel in the injection system to start and filter primes it’s self. Truck usually chugs a little before filter fills up, but been pretty lucky so far.
  12. With 330k on the clock, and with my current average of 17k a year since new and my current age, I will have two milestones to celebrate when I hit 999,999.9, I will also celebrate my 95th birthday and only 67 more oil changes to go at 10k intervals
  13. No need for an electric pump anywhere in the system with a mechanical pump, don’t matter if it’s an Assassin or fuel boss, They don’t loose prime ( unless you have a leak ) even after initial installation priming is as simple as pre fueling the filter with filtered fuel or spinning the fuel pump with something like an electric drill. regardless, the mechanical won’t leave you sitting or chasing electrical bugs Sad
  14. Looks like they fit good, definitely a good option
  • Create New...