Jump to content

01cummins4ever

Gold Member
  • Content Count

    489
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    8

01cummins4ever last won the day on April 19

01cummins4ever had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

290 Suited

Personal Information

  • Location
    Dolores Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

1,014 profile views
  1. I would agree that it’s not necessary, as long as the D70 is sound, you are good to go, you are not overloading by no means, I would put my efforts into air bags or a weight distribution hitch with a bumper pull of that size. I go up to 14k and with pin weight of 2,200 lbs. with fully loaded 5ver, and boat, my D70 has no issues. but air bags are on the want/need list. My truck sits fairly level but it’s just the rough and uneven highways that can have a bouncing effect on the rear springs when fully loaded. If I had a D80 laying around I would keep it as a spare at least
  2. You are correct, it’s the bump of the starter not the click of the key as I stated.
  3. I wouldn’t call it a bonafide test, but I had a hard start when hot several years ago, and tried the pouring water on it, and surprisingly truck fired right up, Don’t know if it was just a coincidence or not, I ended up replacing VP and problem went away, It was a Reman VP that I got a couple months earlier. I wouldn’t think 20 psi. at start up would kill a VP, but you never know, but it’s defently wise to have no more than 5-7 psi at start up. IIRC the ecm is programmed on first click of key to give a 1 sec. burst of fuel, 2nd click 1 sec, and 3rd click about 10 to 15 sec. At least that’s the way mine worked when I had an electric pump.
  4. Just sayin back in the days when full service and self service gas station were right next to each other and when gas was .70 cents a gallon, you usually paid a few more cents per gallon to have full service if you chose to do so and have your vehicle checked out while being filled , but in today’s world of get in and get out I’m sure places like that don’t exist anymore . I would really like to see more places like true full service at least for my wife’s or daughters sake who can seem to get very laxed on vehicle maintenance especially when I can be gone for several days at a time, I would encourage them to use full service if places like that existed anymore. But to have a state dictate that you cannot pump your own fuel I think that’s wrong, I just wonder how many of them people pumping your fuel actually do anything except hold the nozzle and take your money as far as emissions, I’m just glad that’s something I don’t have to deal with, In Colorado those are dictated by what county you live in, mostly in the metro areas and suburbs.
  5. I agree with this NJ system being wrong and un American , There is a difference between the old style full service station where you paid a little extra for someone to fill your tank and check your tires and oil and wash the windshield. vs. a Law that says you can't pump your own fuel. I hope stuff like that don’t spread through out the nation, probably has more to do with law suites, lawyers and control I can remember working at full service stations when I was in school, I got a lot of dates with that job.
  6. That stretch of road aka... the shot gun or the gun barrel. Im a frequent flyer on that stretch transporting heavy equipment out of Denver, it a real treat running that road after comming off the passes. It’s about 80 miles of perfectly flat and straight road, hammer down and watch out for Smokey the bear
  7. @Evan you are correct not a cure all, but in my situation I dont have any issues towing my 12k 5ver on flat or rolling hills and can keep sustained temps of around 175 to 180 and sometime creeps up to around 190, but nothing out of ordinary. Its the steep 6 percent and greater hills that are 4 miles or longer and have switch backs and make it hard to keep a speed greater than 35mph. and it seems that a torque converter to stay in lock up in first and seconded would be most beneficial in controlling the temps. just wondering why you dont use yours, I haven't installed mine yet still trying to get parts lined up and funds for an upgraded valve body to make it useful in all gears
  8. Your transmission in stock form should handle an edge ez or quad XZT and some RV 275 or equivalent if you use it wisely. Very important to keep the trans temps under control under heavy use, a lock up switch and a drive to @Dynamic to install a full lock up valve body would be my first Choice I had my trans rebuilt at 200k, went mostly stock with the exception of a billet single disc, been holding up for the last 100k, but I am having cooling issues with the heavy pulls, The ability to control lock up should help that situation @Marcus2000monster for better understanding of torque vs. horse power, A general calculation 350 hp x 5252 ( torque calculation formula) diveded by given RPM @2700 = 680 ft. lbs. of torque more for your reading enjoyment, you might need a couple of beers and a shot after but it dont hurt to know to much http://www.epi-eng.com/piston_engine_technology/power_and_torque.htm
  9. And don't forget good braking to stop the beast, exhaust brake $1000.+ at least you only have to cry once. or in my case maybe twice when the wife finds out
  10. The only upgrade in power I’ve done to mine is RV275 and the quad XZT. and of course turnbuckle on the hy35 to keep the waist gate closed. The quad XZT is a canned tuner with three levels. Stock, economy (35 HP) and level three which adds 65 or 70 HP. Mine pretty much lives on level 2 except when I’m towing through the mountains I use level 3 on the hills. I usually tow between 6, and 14000 lbs. It holds its own but still you got to watch your temps and drive according to your gauges. With mods like mine I don’t believe any need for head studs and since you are running a gear box, nothing more than a heavy duty clutch if and when your stock clutch where’s out, Do your research and shopping when it comes to clutches a lot can be had for way less than you think. With that said, I would have stepped it up a notch and went with bigger injectors and maybe a quad adrenaline but with my 47re auto I have to take it easy, but the stock drivetrain should be able to hold a little above 300 horse without additional mods .
  11. The low side is around 25psi at 75 ambient temp. I don’t remember how much the rise was until compressor kicked back in but will check it again when I can do so during the day. I have replaced the low side switch but no difference. It seemed to hold a vacuum when I did it, but will double check again, I just borrowed a cheap autozone rental, Yep I’ve read through that a few times, great write up I may change out the Orificetube next time I pull a vacuum
  12. So been fighting this issue with air conditioner since it got warm out and even the last year it was giving me fits, basically my compressor won’t stay engaged even if I have up to three cans of refrigerant from a completely vacuumed system. I have manifold gauges hooked up when charging and can get up to between 150 to 200 psi on the high pressure side and compressor will still cycle off and come back on periodically.( it will drop about 50 psi before re engaging) Sometimes it will not re engage and start blowing warm air, I can wiggle the wires by the compressor and it will re engage for a while but eventually it will quit again. I know it sounds like bad wires but they look alright and it doesn’t matter which wires I move, it does the same thing. So am I chasing an electrical issue, or compressor going out? A clog somewhere? I can’t even seem to find a leak even though it has used a can of Freon in the past about every month or so.
  13. try this site http://www.orangetractortalks.com/ probably more infro than your looking for, but the people on that forum eat, sleep,drink and live kubota, browse the site or jump in and introduce yourself and ask questions, I'm sure they will help on what ever matter you have I just run Napa or wix brand filters on my Kubota just because Napa is conveniently located. Its also 25 years old so its not held to the newer technology and tolerances as yours, but I agree you should use the super UTD 2 in the hydro trans, its a whole different animal than they were years ago and could cost a fortune if you had a failure. I'm sure you will enjoy yours, its amazing the power them little units produce in such small packages, mine is a mid size with over 3000 hours and she still purrs like a kitten with the little 4cyl. diesel. but I did have to replace the hydro trans a few years ago, but that was because I committed the ultimate tractor sin. I let someone borrow it
  14. Can you share a link of those, been looking to upgrade my 18 year old back up bulbs, local auto parts stores want to much for led bulbs, wasn’t expecting a discussion on led lights on a blower motor thread, you guys are just all over the place
  15. When I unhooked mine I noticed a considerable difference in stoping power, more so in daily driving. But really can’t feel much in towing but al least I know they are working
×
×
  • Create New...