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01cummins4ever

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01cummins4ever last won the day on May 31

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    Dolores Colorado

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  1. Done my foam and skin a little more than a year ago. Well worth the investment, Foam was a little stiff at first but broke in after awhile, I remember just having under 300. In it for the foam and skin, I went with a company called autochampoftexas, The skin was an exact oem replacement
  2. that is just awesome, Good friends and good memories Thanks for sharing
  3. What are you trying to accomplish with this? It seems that if you try and cut off the return flow you are just going to create excessive pressure, Not quite sure if your issue is pressure related or not After long hard starts does truck spit and sputter until it clears up, or does it idle and run normal even after a long hard start? A few different scenarios could be playing out here but leaning toward a heat soaked psg on the vp or possibly a slow and wore out starter not allowing good compression, I’m not sure if the tach will even register during cranking, I know mine doesn’t register until it fires off but it would be hard to notice being it usually fires in the first second or so. Just something to look into being its been known to solve others long hard start issues
  4. So much for social distancing, That seems to be a common seen at campgrounds
  5. Being in the cold winter climate I am, my winter cover is a rather cheap one, I just use a mud flap between the cac and radiator, it’s not a high dollar manufactured one but does the job, I believe it help get the engine up to temperature in the cold sub zero temps while rolling down the highway, I usually put it in around December or so and will leave it in till about March, Although a couple times on my spring camping trips pulling loads in the warmer country I did experience some hotter than normal engine temps when I realized I forgot to remove it.
  6. Looks like that one going to be a slow process, hopefully they put a good drilling and blasting crew on,
  7. The way we do it in Colorado Here is a video and a few pics I took of a rock removal I was involved in last year, two rocks (house size each) came from about 1000 ft. Upslope ,one made it across the road, leaving a 30’ wide by 15’ deep crater in the road, that rock is still there, the one blocking the road had to be mitigated. There was talk about building a new road to wind around it but option one was chosen 3 day s and we had the road open to one way, Rocks fell at 4:00 pm on a Friday and had debris stacked and road cleared and open to one way by 2:00 pm on Memorial Day, That included having to get clearance to work on private property, Rock scaling crew, geologist and state engineers and the works. 3310AF57-2CE1-4FE5-8FEF-1F523BADFE1C.MOV
  8. Hope your on the right track, not an uncommon thing for the lift pump circuit to fail through the ecm, but if it proves so, their are ways to wire it up with relays and such to make it safe, Maybe some one could chime in with IBmobiles lift pump relay diagram, I’m working a lot in a no cell service area so posting is limited , Or you could go the mechanical fuel pump route like I did and not have to deal with it lol!
  9. Check your lift pump by connecting directly to battery, by passing the ecm, If problem goes away it probably an ecm or wiring issue, if it’s still their I would say defective lift pump or VP. In your first post I think you stated you had this issue before you replaced both lift pump and VP?
  10. looks good, Hope you have a good trip, I Know I’m due for another one, this was a good weekend to stay home and let all the Holliday warriors have it
  11. You could also help confirm the wheel bearing failure with an infrared laser heat gun by comparing the temps on each bearing I used this method on our Tahoe, I couldn’t tell if it was the cv axle or bearing but the heat gun helped me narrow it down to the passenger side wheel bearing, their was about 30 degree difference in temp readings, took the hub off and it was obvious, not totally gone but would have grenaded eventually
  12. ^^^ That is what my transmission builder said he puts in his rebuilds too, he said it wasn’t *snake oil*. Lol! I changed the oil after about 10 months to instal a plus 4 ATS deep pan and a derale cooler. drained 6 quarts out of factory pan, it took 12 to fill it back up
  13. I would verify the fuel pressure readings with a test gauge, could be in the gauge or sending unit itself, I’m not to sure about the mechanical gauge but electric ones have been known to give false readings sometimes. Might check your bypass valve, take it off and clean the plunger real good, could be sticking toward the closed side allowing pressure to rise a little
  14. Well congrats on a successful retirement, sounds like your decisions paid off well my youngest son is expressing interest in the firefighting field, hope he follows through, but he would have to move somewhere line a big city to really make a career out of it, we have a lot of volunteer around these rural parts which is great experience but still got to make a living while your doing it. Their is no shortage of wild land firefighting though, we are constantly surrounded by wildfires every summer
  15. It does sound like TC locking issues, and generally it’s ground related, I would start by checking the ac noise at the alternator like @IBMobile was explaining, and doing the w-t ground mod if you haven’t already, it helps a lot and gives you chance to see how the grounds are run and get them cleaned up, and good battery cables and connections are a must, you might try unplugging your alternator and taking it out a spin.
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