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01cummins4ever last won the day on April 19

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    Dolores Colorado

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  1. If you got the military terminals the cable ends you gave should be all you need. I personally prefer soldier, because it seals it better and you won’t have air gaps that will start to corrode overtime. I use a rosin core soldier and flux. Just fill the ring terminals full of soldier using a propane torch then stick the pre tinned and fluxed cooper wire ends in the molting soldier. Then finish it off with some commercial grade heat shrink. You may be able to soldier and crimp but just plain soldier has been keeping my cables in good shape for the last 6 or 7 years. I even used liquid electrical tape to help seal around the ends of joint before I shrunk the tube on and of course a light coating of oil to help keep the terminals sealed on the battery post
  2. I’ve never Dyno’d mine, my set up is what’s in my sig, I’ve been running the RV 275’s and quad xzt for a few years, been happy with the performance, mine lives on level 2, with the exception of level 3 towing heavy up the steep grades, I’m about 21k with truck and 5ver and boat behind that, and that averages my fuel mileage around 9 to 10 pulling out west here. Truck and 5ver by itself I can get around 11 or 12. It just depends where I’m going. Now truck by itself I can average 19 on daily driving on the overhead lie o meter, or 18 to 18.5 hand calculated. Pretty much 80% rural driving, lots of one horse towns with just a few stop signs or traffic light here and there. I do smoke pretty good on level 3 but I blame that on my hy35 with turnbuckle, one of these days I’ll upgrade to a Hx, or an he351 but for now I just live with it, I can max out at 28 psi, and hold 22 psi, pulling hard uphill and not exceed 1200 on the pyro but generally keep it around 1150. I’m still running the stock air box and factory exuast is still in good shaoe at 327k.
  3. I’m sure you will be happy with that set up, If I was in a better position when mine went out couple weeks ago I would have gone this route.
  4. I really have to look close to notice blowby on mine otherwise you don’t really see it, mine dumps at the rear of engine on top of the front diff, I did the moparman crankcase breather relocate. A tell tale way to check is to unscrew the oil fill cap on valve cover all the way and start engine, it should stay in place, it might dance around a little but not bow off. Of course you can always do a compression check too.
  5. Might check your main vacuum line for leak, that will cause blow by,
  6. I feel your pain, seems to be a bad month for trannys around here.
  7. No experience with the DDT mechanical, but I run the FuelBoss Mechanical, pretty much same set up, as far as the crank mounting location it will not give you any issues and is fairly protected by the radiator and other crossmembers and such, You might try looking at the Glasier Diesel Power web site for the fuel boss and compare to the ddt. The Mechanical creates a lot of pressure and will keep your VP happy with a consistent 16 to 18 psi at idle and WOT. All extra fuel is sent back to the tank via a regulated bypass valve.
  8. And we can all jump on this green movement bandwagon and live happily ever after, our daily lives and energy supply will come from good feelings and unicorn farts.
  9. maybe only used for plowing, 25.000 eeeasy miles, lol. maybe don't snow much where he is at. or maybe just plowed from garage to road then back in garage. hope its got a bullet proof tranny at least
  10. I had the same clip break a year ago, trans line rubbed a hole where it goes between the pan and crossmember, ordered a replacement line from R/A and when taking the rest of the clips off I broke 1/2 of them, brittle plastic. My quick fix was left over 1/2 fuel line over the trans lines where it goes over the crossmember.
  11. It I am seeing this right, The Cummins thermostat 3946849 looks nothing like the oem stat that came in my truck in 2001. Could it be that it’s not an oem thermostat and just marketing purpose says it is, maybe just an aftermarket claiming to be better? but obviously having some failures. I still got the oem stat that I pulled out in 2010, it was still functioning but put a new one in for good measure, Napa part # 375 190 like others have been running with out issues and seems to be very close to the oem Cummins thermostat pic of original
  12. I’ve always had bad vibes with the ceramic pads in these trucks and this just confirms my thoughts even more. Ive always thought that the ceramic pads and slotted and drilled rotors belong on light fast moving race cars going 150 mph or more and not on our overweight slow moving pigs. I would also agree to resurface your originals if you still got them and they are up to spec, probably a lot better material than the after market China stuff. But even the China auto parts store rotors been working for me, as I replace rotors on every 3rd set of pads. But I do burn through a lot of brakes from my heavy towing. I also use the mid grade oem pads, they don’t have as much bite, but are easier on the rotors and don’t leave a mess of brake dust.
  13. I think with a set up like that your going to have problems, probably a lot of cavitation. I would not have s problem with an in tank pump if someone could manufacture one that was reliable and had good volume and pressure but that remains d to be seen. Then you could just ditch the frame mount pump and sump. Then you would have to replace your tank anyway. The sump could be a source of gelling since it hangs down low and closer to the elements. The fuel filter is a probable cause of gelling, without the heater mine will start to gel at about negative 15.
  14. I just changed coolant and flushed the system yesterday. went to Napa to pick up a new thermo and 3 gallons of green, my system looked as clean as day one. Opened up the thermostat box from napa and it was the same as the one I took out, stamped motorad. Last time I changed thermostat was in 2011, never had an issue and that one and it came from Orielys I also dilute antifreeze with well water and my system is clean, no scale build up
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