01cummins4ever

On my last recent outing With the 5ver hooked up, and pulling some of Colorado’s steeper grades like wolf creek pass that’s 9 miles and 7-9% grade with a couple hairpin switchbacks and no breaks climbing the grade to help with cooling, my trans was creeping up to 250’ before I reached the top, ( the trans temp probe is on the output line side so I am reading the hottest temp possible as it’s just leaving the torque converter) as I was nearly to the top I just kept going and let it cool at the summit, grossing around 19k, everything else was holding its own, but the transmission temps, and having a fresh tranny rebuild I need to try prolong the trans. life the best I can, so I figured the best way to reduce the hot output temps was to reduce the fluid temps in the pan. So I ordered the Derale hyper cool 15960, Derale has a few coolers out there but I chose this one because of the stacked plate cooler core and 1/2” fittings and 500 CFM fan, I pared this up with the ATS deep trans pan, mostly for the built in trans temp probe in the pan and a drain plug. but it’s a beefy looking unit anyway. I was trying to find a remote location for this cooler, and with a short bed 4x4 space was limited, and I mean really limited , most people install these behind the transfer case with the long beds but my fuel tank was not allowing that to happen, I also wanted to avoid mounting outside of frame for obvious reasons, so I had to move it under the bed and to get away from the muffler I was damn near right above the rear axle, I also wanted to keep it mounted at a 45’ angle to help with air flow to the core, and trying not to let it hang straight down for the fear of it coming in contact with road debris, fabbing your own brackets is a necessity with these as they are just a universal fit for all vehicles, The kit only comes with 10’ of 1/2 rubber line so being far back toward the rear I had to go to the parts store and get 10 more feet to get it back to the transmission . here’s a few pics what I got so far, I do plan on keeping the temp probe on the output line just for testing to see how much the output temps reduce, then I’m going to move it to the pan and I’m sure the temps will be reduced quite a bit, If I can regulate 210 degree in the pan towing heavy and steep I’ll be happy, tomorrow’s project is to wire the fan with an override switch to turn it off and on as I see fit, I will update how the temps go, as I might be doing another road trip, this time with the boat hooked to the 5ver.

I would just try replacing the starter contacts in the solenoid, mine did that a long time ago, and replaced the contacts, still cranking on the original starter at 350k, back then napa was stocking them, but you can still get them on order, I know Genos or Larry B’s still stocks them

A stock valve body will allow lock up in 3rd and overdrive like you explain .a modified VB will allow lock up in 2nd.

The Air Dog 4g and Raptor 4G are not the same, (back when I installed one, the 4G wasn’t even heard of as far as I know I think it’s just the pump that has been upgraded) The Air Dog is plumbed with a return and has the extra filters, the raptor is just plumbed in-line on your suction side and no return line plumbing is used, @dieseldon it sounds like you have the frame mount raptor 150 or 100, not sure which one but plumbing should be the same, I installed one of these about 10 years ago, it’s basically just adding a 1/2 inch suction tube in place of your existing suction tube in the fuel basket, then running 1/2 “ line to inlet port of raptor and 1/2” line on outlet port of raptor directly to your existing fuel canister on your engine block, from fuel canister to VP is added 1/2”or 3/8 line which is not included in the original raptor plumbing, like I say it’s been awhile since doing one of these so don’t beat me up to bad if something’s missing, just going off memory, I will search for original raptor 100 and 150 instructions to help with the confusion see if these help

I remember doing mine completely with cleaning the box and replacing heater core and evaporator, as far as the ac it leaked down at the time so no recapturing Freon needed, just had to pull a vacuum and recharge my self, but if one does not want to invest in the tools the 150.00 for a compete ac job probably is in the norm.but to each their own on that one . It took me a full weekend, with lots of interruptions, and the following week working on it after 12 hour work days and comming home and spending maybe an hour or so on it and buttoning it up the following Saturday, just saying it’s a job that you don’t want to take short cuts if you can help it, I think it’s been 7 or 8 years and I don’t plan on going back in there. Another trick is if you need a windshield (I know this job just keeps getting more expensive) you can buy yourself a lot of room by removing your broken windshield and get a mobile windshield installer when finished. And then you can enjoy a new windshield along with good clean heat, and ac

I bet she enjoys that car, Does that mean you go shopping for a new 5ver,? That scene looks all to familiar, When I took my wife to look at some new (used) campers I had a few picked out, I took her to the most expensive one first, because it was close, we didn’t make it to the rest of them, I now have RV payments again, but a happy wife is a good life .

Just looking at the pics, that trailer looks to lite to double tow behind it, you need to consider you don’t want to exceed the gvwr of the trailer itself, even though all the vehicle weight won’t be on the trailer itself it still needs factored in. Also I know their is a lot of states back east that prohibit double towing, and some states require the first vehicle in tow to be a fifth wheel or gooseneck hitch. out west here it’s legal in the states I double tow, but it would be something you would have to look into, It would probably be easier and safer to find a driver for that car, A forty foot gooseneck could be an option

Our liberties are being questioned

If my youngest ends up with mine I’m going to have to make sure I stay alive long enough to make sure it don’t end up with 44” tires and an 8” axle dump, I don’t know where he learns such language, maybe I should just do@dripley route and just go with a big hole, at least I will be able to Rest In Peace

Your tank should be vented and not pressurize, unless it’s clogged.

^^^^ This would be my suggestion, I have heard good reviews on these, I’m fixing to purchase one myself along with ATS deep trans pan. I don’t believe the pan itself will help much on temps but getting it for the ability to have a temp probe in the pan along with a drain plug,, and this coupled with a thermostatic fan controlled cooler should do the trick

Anybody got any updates or issues with these, I’m chasing a couple leaks with my originals, probably should just get a new set

@Doubletrouble here you go, short video of 4 ways and pic of back ups FullSizeRender.mov

I will get some pics

One of the best rear lighting upgrades I did was install recessed LED tail, turn, brake and reverse LED’s in the headache rack, It did drown out the existing tail lights in the rear and made them look like the 20 year old lights they are. I took them off and washed them in the kitchen sink ( they were a little dirty inside) and let them dry for a couple hours, I just installed new std. bulbs but replaced the back up with LED’s, no resistor needed anywhere, and for someone coming up the rear the visibility is 100% better. My driveway exits off a rural 60 mph highway so I like the extra assurance, and having 4 LED back up lights make it nice in the dark.

Good luck to you on your move happiness is Colorado in the rear view mirror

If things keep going the way they are, that R word won’t even be a part of my vocabulary anymore, or at least till I’m 80.

My hope is that since the economy was strong going into this it will be easier to bounce back, it’s not like the recession caused by bad business practices back in 08. maybe the big business can bounce back but I think it will be hard for the small business and mom and pop operations to overcome. The longer it strings out the harder it will be. just hope we all can find ways to stay working and support the economy and stay safe at the same time, I know I’ve had to make some un pleasant changes in my daily work activities, but beats not working at all

I have a hard time swallowing the direction our country has turned the last couple weeks, I get the social distancing and not spreading the virus thing, but when they can have business like pot shops declared an essential business and at the same time shut down public access to local lakes and overnight camping on public and state and federal lands, their is something wrong with that. I was ran out of a state park by a game warden a week and a half ago, a 100 unit campground with 9 Rv’s spread out accordingly minding our own business and doing our part on social distancing, The game wardens answer was if we let you do it we have to let everyone else, I just laughed and said no one it their right mind would come out here and camp except me and a few other bozos, the wind gust to 60 mph every day and it s freezing cold out here and it’s far enough from civilization and you run out of supply’s you’re SOL. But we were enjoying it and loving the solitude meanwhile the last two weeks they have shut down every campground and boat ramp in a hundred and fifty mile radious, you will be greeted by closed steel gates or chains strung across the road or coned off and signed, but if you want to spend your govt, issued unemployment check at the local pot shop you will be greeted with smiles and happy people. Me, I just prefer to keep working and keep the wheels turning, and take my chances that Im in the 98 or 99 percent that survives this or at least the 80 percent that don’t need hospitalized. I’m in the trucking business and take the loads as they come, When the works their I take it, when it’s not I stay home and choose my recreation as I see fit, is that unethical in these times, I don’t know, but I refuse to become part of the heard and live in a glass bubble and live in fear. I take personal safety serious, it’s how I’ve done my job the last 30 years, and pretty much lived my life, I never have got into the govt. knows best hype or even the company executives who think they know best when it comes to what’s best for me or my family. At the end of the day I put my trust into God, not the government or news media

Wow, that sucks @dripley hope they come through, and not get tied up in a lot of legal bs. Just makes a bad situation even worse

If I’m reading this right , Sounds like your raptor 100 is trying to pull fuel out of the in tank pump, I believe the raptor installation call for removing the in tank pump if it had one. That could be why your getting the 5 psi, out of the raptor. To much restriction trying to suck through existing in tank pump. I don’t know how your raptor is wired but it’s possible the raptor is running off the ecm with original fuel pump wiring and leaving your in tank pump wire harness dead, just a guess though, might need more search into that

I’m in the same situation, I had my trans rebuilt while on a road trip last year, (crapped out along the interstate in Kansas) rebuilt at a corner mom and pop trans shop in mid town America, It’s working fine for now but in order to hold up to my abuse it’s going to have to have someone that I can trust tune and modify it. But it did come with a genuine mass produced rebuilt single disk billet converter and sonnax valve body kit. Woohoo.

Not the first time this had happened, I’ve been out camping where the temps were in the low 20’s at night, furnace went all night long and worked flawlessly. and kept the water from freezing in the underbelly, Got home and decided to let the furnace run and winterize the pipes later. Well it made a horrible Noise and vibration at start up and I thought it was going to fly apart. I started to tear into it and try to isolate the issue, I pulled the squirrel cage cover off and their lies the problem.

Yep been their done that one, a 1/4 drive ratchet with a couple flimsy extensions for flexing

Your fuel boss alone will only deliver pressure according to your rpm at cranking which should be around 250-300 rpm if I remember right. And at that you will only be creating around 5-7 psi with fuel boss until it fires up then you can see 16 or more instantly. I would personally disconnect the ddrp, it’s not needed at start up, that would eliminate the high 20 psi, during cranking. I agree the VP is not liking the high pressure but that also could be a VP problem but reducing the pressure might help the issue. Years ago when I changed my Vp I had a long hard start like 20 seconds when it was hot, pouring cold water on the electronics and it would fire right off. I ended up exchanging it for another one.