01cummins4ever

Optimal trans. Temps, 140 - 190 like you have, The primary purpose of the HE is to bring the Temps up to optimal 140-190 degree right off the get go. Depending on your winter temps and driving conditions you may as well be throwing ice cubes on your cooler, for the trans temps might creep just over the 100 degree mark, it really does rely on engine coolant for heating and cooling.

Winter arriving a little late here in Colorado, started snowing Tuesday, Only dropping 3 or 4” everyday until Thursday night then 20” overnight, it’s pretty much out of here until the next system arrives on Tuesday, unfortunately we should have snow like this starting in October, We need one of these storms at least once a week until February to get caught up on a normal snow pack so the dessert southwest can have water for the cities and suburbs, Typical total snow fall accumulation here at 8-10000 ft. elevation is around 250”. Still got a ways to go. Truck was a little grumpy this morning at -6.degree it’s 7400 ft. At the house

10 years, 100k miles seems about the lifespan of even a good rebuilt stock 47re, behind a Cummins, find out what kind of upgrades he can do to enhance the life span, upgraded valve body capable of lock up in all gears, Billet parts, extra cooling, etc.. A stock 47re is just Blah.. It will just die a slow death

I don’t know if horn works, I didn’t check, ordered one from rock auto, they seem to have the best price, and decent shipping time

Got abs codes scanned, told me rear axle speed sencor, so picked one up and while I was at it got some new brake shoes, got home and popped the passenger side and they looked like time to replace , I took the drivers side drum off and all the hardware came out in pieces. a bent e brake lever, and desinegrated adjuster wheel, along with a few other pieces that fell on the floor. Did I mention my Truck hadn’t been stopping worth a ***** latley, so back to the parts store and pick up new hardware, everything except the e-lever bracket, Drove 200 miles so far, no abs or brake light, along with flushing the old fluid, brakes feel like normal mediocre 2nd gen brakes again still no cruise control but the air bag light came on so that’s probably in the clock spring I would assume

@Turbo Terry you are close Torque = HP X 5252 divided by RPM you can switch it around HP = Torque X 5252 divided by RPM

@Evan yes, brake lights work I understand how beneficial it would be to just replace everything due to age and mileage, but.. don’t really have the time or even the room in the shop and with winter coming on don’t want to do it outside either, at any rate I’m determined to find the culprit, hopefully getting the codes read by a good abs scan tool will help I did my hydro boost re seal a few years years back, but getting serious and start replacing some of this high mileage stuff Is definitely on my short list next spring or this winter if I can get my truck in the garage, front unit bearings and calipers and shocks are on the short order. still running the originals (except shocks) since new.

@LorenS I do not have access to the FSM, I do have other manuals with directions of trouble shooting some of the individual components like the combination valve and sensor resistance which I plan on doing @Silverwolf2691I was referring to this in general, I did find a local shop that said he could pull the abs codes on my truck, we will see how that goes this week, dealer says they are a week out before he can even get me in

I’ve just about on information overload In searching out this abs brake issue and trying not to parts change components until I find the problem, I do have rear brake abs along with rear drums, abs and brake light come on only after first full application of brakes and will stay on along with the spongy and week brakes, system will reset itself when I turn key off and then the cycle starts again the first time brakes are applied, they act like air in the system and it seems like I can gain a little by pumping but not much. I have not tried bleeding at the wheel because it seems if it’s leaking internally it wouldn’t do any good, It does not leak any fluid. The speedo works as it should and cruise control will not work or even illuminate on dash, I have not taken to dealer yet for codes but wondering if they can pin point a bad master cylinder or that thingy thing ( I forgot the propper name for that) aft. the master cylinder or any other parts in the system

I have no experience with the mishimoto, When I was shopping for a radiator I did not want to spend that much money, nor could I afford one but I do believe with their all aluminum cores and tanks, and price they better be top quality. I just went with a auto parts store radiator, The store said it was a Murray but the box said spectra, I dunno but it’s been fine for several years, it’s just an oem replacement with its plastic tanks, If it does fail in the future I would just swap it out with another, it’s almost easier to put in another than it is to repair or clean them

If I was to buy a new truck tomorrow, I would have to do it without parting with my 2nd gen, Treat it right the value will continue to climb, just look at the value of the muscle car era of late 60’s and early 70’s, and what they are worth today, even with the emissions literally chocking them out, I don’t see in a crystal ball but don’t see the internal combustion engine going away in my lifetime, maybe in my kids lifetime who knows, I’ve been driving semi for 30 years and only have a few good years left, way to much demand and dependent on diesel to try and pull the plug completely,, we already do a good job cleaning the air of particulates with DPF systems and such, even though the DPF is a good system on its own it’s all the over engineered and mandated sensors and garbage that makes them fail. hopefully we can just continue to improve on what we have, No matter what mandates the gobermint throws at us we are resilient and will find ways to overcome, that’s just the way we are here in the USA,

I thought about a cover once, I have a 34’ fifth wheel. For one, it’s to risky to shovel snow on the roof without taking a chance On stabbing something with the shovel, lots of plastic upon a RV roof. If it had a tarp on it that would make it next to impossible to shovel, plus like moparman says the tarp is just going to rip anyway, I think the going rate for a 34’ rv tarp is above 500. bucks. Two to three ft. snow storms here are not uncommon, and that the snow just freezes and more accumulates. thats a lot of snow load. I have found it easier to just transport the rv to the lower country for storage in the winter, at least if it does snow on it their it will melt off, If I was determined to keep it at the house every winter I would consider building a pole barn roof over it,

You connect two 6V together in series to get 12V.

I am at 5 years on my Duracell 6v 230 amp hr. wet cell batteries, I have a pair wired in series, not bad for 150.00 each. I maintain them with the ways mentioned already, the trick is if your going to charge them and leave them hooked up, Do a parasitic draw test, some CO detectors can be a big power drainer with an RV sitting at idle with 12v power alone, If I am keeping it plugged in to 120 for extended periods I will leave something on, preferably the fridge, If leaving it with just batteries I will give them a full charge then dis connect them. I will do this if I take it to the lower country for winter storage, absolutely the best method to avoid snow removal,

This is what I use, if you can’t find the super tech, All the Wally worlds usually have this in the sporting goods/marine dept. just about 17.O0 and some change per gallon here. I have a merc outboard that uses it so it just makes since to share a little with the truck. As long as it’s TC-W ( two cycle -water cooled )

@Turbo Terry it’s really not that complicated, when testing diesel fuel with lubricants with a HFRR machine just imagine a hard steel ball with a saw sal blade action running on the surface with an implied amount of pressure for a given amount of time. The depth of the scar left in the steel ball is measured in microns and that number is recorded for that product, hence the smaller the number the better the rating, untreated diesel from the refinery can have a scar of around 560 microns, with modifiers we like to get it a depth in the 400’s. The clerk probably don’t but the station manager should have a copy of the delivery from an invoice, you think they would share that infro, but I guess that’s up to the individual. The fuel truck driver would have a copy of the BOL too, If you happen to see one at your local fuel station, ask him he might tell you. In my case the Mavericks I use are good about posting the winter fuel rating on the pumps. I also l change my fuel filter every time I change the oil, usually a couple times a year if it needs it or not, It’s easier to stay up to date what’s going through the tank I have had good luck with power service the stuff that comes in the white bottle, The red 911 should only be used in an emergency by pouring it in your gelled fuel filter along with clean diesel. The liquid cooled 2 stroke synthetic snow mobile oil is about 45.00 a gallon, I m not sure of the anti gel in that You can always use the tried and true method of mixing #2 with #1. a 50/50 mix should get you through some extreme cold temps, If it’s that cold I just leave the Dodge at home, and myself if I can get away with it but in my line of work the worse the weather gets the more I have to be out their. It sucks we have to treat our tanks as a witch’s brew but all in all 90% of the time I just fill up and go, unless we are in a real cold snap

5% or less of bio is not required to be labeled as far as I know most diesel sold in the US has it, but at different blends It’s always best to know your fuel source Study’s using a HFRR (High Frequincy Riciporating Rig) show even a 2% bio blend is the most effective for lubrication, Their are some tables posted somewhere showing results of different brands of additives, but can’t find them. 2 stroke and some other popular additives used without bio are also in the top tier, the lower the number in a HFRR test the better, I forget what the Bosh vp44 recommendation is but thinking around 480.? on the HFRR scale. Power service products score very bad, but they are more intended for an anti gel product and not a lubrication modifier, I will use it as an anti gel but that’s only in -15F or colder, but again it’s best to know your fuel source and what the winter blend is rated for, A 100 Gallons a day can be an average day for me in the long haul, I don’t know my fuel sources when traveling out of the area in the winter but keep plenty of the power service, white bottle, one bottle will treat 100 gallons for anti gelling, in the tool box and a few bottles of the red stuff. The cetane booster is just hype IMHO, good batteries and compression will have far better cold starting results than any cetane booster rated product, also fuel heaters are a god send I the winter time

Your temps aren’t much different than ours, You should be ok, with 50/50 mix on your fuel in the winter or even 35% number 1 in the winter is about the norm here, 50/50 in some of the high elevation towns. Even #2 has very little lubrication, adding tc-w 2 stroke to 1 once a gallon is very beneficial, anything under -15 f. I usually add some anti gel, hot shot secret or diesel kleen in the white bottle, I have to start a lot of heavy equipment in the sub 0 temps, usually take a generator with me if it has a block heater, if no starting aids on the machine it’s usually go go juice and a battery jumper

What kind of temps do you see in the winter

You can have the best of both worlds by installing a Splitter on the cable connections and a second panel to string out if needed, Ive experienced both roof top and on the ground, the roof top is by far more convenient and picks up better rays IMHO

I am in the process of adding 2 100w panels to my roof, right now I have one 100w. Panel with a 50ft cord that’s mounted to a frame that I can move where I need it on the ground, but personally I think permanent roof mount is the best bet, as that goes I’m still able to use my portable if needed, The roof seems to pick up the best all around sun rays, which is also good if keeping batteries charged during storage. As far as stringing the cable, I have a satellite dome on the roof, I ran the TV cable through a 1 1/2 conduit I drilled through the roof ( ya I know it sucks drilling through roof but you do what you have too ) inside of a closet, I used the large size conduit for future solar panel cable routing, I have a sealed junction box on the roof that the conduit is mounted too, and inside the closet it runs down to the basement ( it’s s fifth wheel) where all the connections are in the battery and storage compartment, along with all that I Used Dicor sealant on all the screw holes and cable clamp screws on the roof, Ive also heard of people using a roof vent stack for cable routing, but wouldn’t work for my lay out, but maybe an option for you

Glad to see another 2nd gen being saved

And just think, $100,000 sticker price for the average diesel is just around the corner, Although some of the high end trim levels are pushing that figure 22k is what I gave for my 01 in January of 03, it came with a whopping 20k miles and a warranty along with hail damage , 350k later it’s got more hail damage and a few dings

I read that too, along with a few other directions and YouTube’s, but all in all once you tear into it, it goes fairly easy, I done mine in the middle of winter when the garage was packed full of stuff so maneuvering around was kind of tight, I chose to mount the duct work to the dash before installing it in the truck, unless your like stretch Armstrong and can snake your hands underneath the dash, but it wasn’t happening for me. Here’s a couple pics on fastening the duct work I first removed it from the main heater core box, then cleaned it up and mounted it to new dash before installing it in the truck, If I remember right their is 3 or 4 screws that are fairly easy accessible to remount ducting back to main hvac box

They rent diesel trucks all day long , I lost my tranny in Kansas City a couple years ago, In the 01 towing a boat to Indiana, I had to finish my trip so I rented a truck while having the tranny rebuilt, I tried to get a half ton because that’s all I needed, but no hitch on the half tons, a few rams and F 150,s. I had to upgrade to the 3/4 ton, they had 1 sitting their. a 2019 dodge w/Cummins and it had 30 whole miles on it, still had the paper floor mats lol, but it cost me deeply too, no playing around,