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Timburrr

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    Vancouver Island, BC

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  1. I like having my exhaust backpressure gauge, but right now its just a loose gauge by my gear shifter. My cheap-o glowshift pyrometer gauge crapped out (I still have the Edge pyrometer which is the one I monitor) so I'm thinking of replacing the pyrometer gauge in my A-pillar pod with an exhaust back pressure gauge to clean things up and make it easier to see. From what I can tell, the only difference between a mechanical air pressure, boost, or exhaust pressure gauge from Autometer ore Isspro is the letters on the face of the gauge and the exhaust back pressure gauge comes with a length of copper tubing (which I don't need because I have a stainless part that came with my exhaust brake). Does anybody have any input on this? I'd like to do a bunch of things in one go to save time (and the new cd player I am getting has a bluetooth mike that I will have to run down the A-Pillar). I might also try to do my headliner if I can find the material and what glue to use. Thanks!
  2. Timburrr

    Coolant Flush

    I've been meaning to do this soon. Thanks for the link to the article. Do you guys ever use a descaling flush detergent or just run the fresh water through?
  3. Timburrr

    Speaker Replacement

    Thanks everyone for the help. Haven't decided which deck to buy but I will do some reading and get on it. It will be nice to have all my speakers working and have the bluetooth phone connection.
  4. Timburrr

    Speaker Replacement

    Thanks to everyone for the input. I'm probably going to ditch the amps and keep it simple since it has an aftermarket deck that are designed to power speakers half decent on their own. I'll just buy whatever cheaper to mid range 6x9 and 5.25" speakers I can get my hands on and throw them in one day. I definitely plan on putting in a newer deck in the future with bluetooth. Here in BC first time offence for using phone while driving is $543! Penalty for subsequent offences goes up from there and if you get two or more tickets in a three year period you get a risk premium added to your insurance. I use my headset the odd time to talk to the wife while I'm driving to work and bluetooth would be a lot easier. Thanks again!
  5. I need to replace the speakers in my truck (99 quad cab) and just finished reading the material available on here. I don't know much about car audio, but I've done a bit of reading tonight and I am looking for some help on ordering new speakers. My truck must have (or at some point) had the infinity system. It has an aftermarket Kenwood CD deck and from when I put my mirrors on, I could see that the speakers on the back had that crescent shaped amplifier, which I understand is evidence of the infinity system. Are there any specific speakers that fit nicely and aren't super expensive? My understanding is 6x9s in the front and 5 1/4s in the back. Should I keep the infinity amp or bypass it? I read that the rear speakers are powered and wired to the amp but who knows whats actually connected to what right now. I know my front and rear drivers side speakers aren't working. I've read some people have done 6 1/2's in the front because they said you can get better value (sound quality to price) than in 6x9s but had to make a custom mount for them (I think I'd rather go simpler) I also read somewhere through google that people had ended up with 6x9s that were too deep and interfered with the window operation. Any guidance would be much appreciated. While we're on the audio topic, I would like to one day get a deck with blue-tooth so I can put music on my phone and play that, and also do handsfree talking. I'm wondering if our trucks are too loud for the handsfree talking to work well? I know when I have used my headphones or speaker phones people thought I was calling them from a tractor. Thanks!
  6. Interesting. Thanks for the information. Hopefully it tests fine but I would consider an upgraded alternator if I can find the funds. If I remember right the key is to disconnect any added on electronics to get a true reading. I'll find the write up and check it out. Thanks again Michael.
  7. That's a great idea, I'm planning on doing it as soon as I have time. If there is excessive ac noise, are there brands that are good replacements or do you guys like to find a good rebuilder? The shop said a rebuilder might be better but it will still be Chinese components going in.
  8. So a little update. Truck was labouring to start so took it in to the auto electrical shop to test the batteries and the drivers side was bad and the other was fairly bad. Put in new batteries and the exhaust brake has functioned 100% normal without any other interventions. I'm not an electrimagician but my only guess is a dead cell was causing some issues? Voltage always showed as fine so I don't know. Anyhow it seems good now.
  9. Thanks for the replies. It does have the controller under the dash that engages the break via the idle verification (thanks Michael I was mistaken and thought it was the APPS ). I did have it set pretty sensitive so my plan is to turn it up a hair (it is a very fine adjuster so I'm guessing a good bump could possibly back it off enough). I'm just worried it could be another problem like funny signals from AC noise (maybe an early warning sign). I have read AC noise can cause all sorts of funny behaviour. My understanding is when the truck senses the APPS has been engaged it bumps the truck out of idle mode and starts to control the motor via sensor inputs? So there is a chance I might need to recalibrate the voltage of the APPS?
  10. A little while ago my exhaust brake (BD remote mount) started to work intermittently. It seems that when I first turn my truck on, if I flip the switch at idle it works normally, but after driving around for half hour or so, at an idle the exhaust brake will only engage sometimes. It also seems like if I'm driving and coming to a stop the exhaust brake will engage, then as the RPMs get close to an idle, it will cut out. If I down shift and the RPS go up again, it will engage again, then cut out as I get close to an idle. It didn't do this before. I can hear the switch under the dash click as it tells the brake to go off or on, so I know its not the physical workings of the brake (spool valve or anything like that). Sometimes even after driving for a half hour or an hour it still works normally and sometimes at an idle it will go off and on. My hunch is the APPS, but I'm not sure what would suddenly make it go out of whack. There's always a chance some hard bumps put the brake switch out of calibration because I had it set to disengage the brake with very little APPS signal. I found this article LINK here on the forums which is super informative (Thanks Michael!), but I don't understand what causes the APPS to need calibration. Should I go straight to calibrating the APPS or does it sound like it could be something else or something simpler? I admit I haven't checked for AC noise from the alternator which I plan on doing as soon as I have time (not sure when that will be!). I should also mention ever since I got the truck (3 or so years ago) the cruise control is wonky and it will slowly accelerate to higher and higher speeds until I have to shut it off which I assume could be related. When I'm looking at my Edge Insight CTS2 I notice as I'm decelerating in gear it shows the APPS as being a steady 0% but when I'm at an idle it spends most of the time at 0 but blips up to 5-8% momentarily. The refresh rate on the Edge isn't great, but that's what I'm seeing. Thanks for reading and thanks in advance for any help!
  11. Timburrr

    Blown 40a Trailer Fuse

    I've done lots of driving around with and without the trailer, so far everything is good. I tried using the laser thermometer on the fuse with the truck in reverse and there wasn't a noticeable increase in the temperature so I'm HOPING it was a one off issue like my kid jamming something in the plug or filling it up with water, or possibly when I plugged into my friend's trailer there was an intermittant short that popped it right away. I'm going to keep my eye on it and post if there are any updates. Thanks for the help!
  12. Timburrr

    Blown 40a Trailer Fuse

    I wish I could remember. I'm going to try to find the receipt or something to see because I don't think it's stamped on the lights. I'll check when I get home. Thanks again.
  13. Timburrr

    Blown 40a Trailer Fuse

    Will do. So far no problems. I was also thinking about hooking up to my trailer, putting the transfer case in neutral and put the truck in reverse for a bit and check the fuse with s laser thermometer periodically to see if it gets hot. Does this sound reasonable? My thermometer is a cheapo so I don't know how well it will work but I was thinking it would give me an idea if the backup lights are too much of a load.
  14. Timburrr

    Blown 40a Trailer Fuse

    I'll check my trailer out and see if I can find any shorts. Hopefully it won't be on my truck side because that will mean dropping my fuel tank again and that will make me pretty angry. Haha. Truck was not connected to trailer, and it was about a month or so ago that I put the battery on. I have driven the trailer frequently since then, it was just one of the only recent changes I could think of. So on Thursday I used my trailer, everything was fine, I backed the trailer into my driveway and disconnected with everything being fine. Last night I hooked up to my friend's trailer and I had my headlights on when I plugged into his trailer and noticed the running lights didn't come on, so there wasn't a flicker and the fuse popped or anything like that. I'm wondering if it happened when a trailer wasn't hooked up. I replaced the fuse and his trailer worked just fine for me. Got home and hooked up to mine and everything works just fine. I'll be driving it around in a couple hours and see how things go. Could it have been my son possibly messing around with my 7pin plug and shorting something out? Could it be the reverse lights draw too much and blow the breaker when I have it in reverse? This is my biggest worry because sometimes it takes me a while to back my trailer up my driveway and position it where I want it. I'm trying to remember if the reverse was working when the fuse was blown. I know the 12v power, brake controller and running lights were all out. All I had was signal and brake lights that I remember.
  15. Today I went to borrow my friends car hauler to rescue my broken down commuter car and only the brake lights and turn signals would work on the trailer. I tried my second 7 pin connector for the 5th wheel in the box and it was the same thing, so I figured the problem is upstream of the 7pin connectors. Did a bit of reading and found the big square 40a fuse in the fuse box in the engine bay and sure enough she was toast. Stole the 40a from the fuel heater until the parts store opens in the morning and everything was working again. I'm looking for some suggestions why this could have happened? I My guess is that it was one of the following things: 1) 19 year old truck and maybe just time for it to go? 2) My 3 year old son likes playing with water guns and could have squirted a bunch of water in the 7 pin connector and shorted something. 3) I have LED reverse lights on my dump trailer and maybe I was in reverse long enough for it to cook the fuse 4) maybe somewhere there is a corroded wire that is creating a lot of resistance If the fuse pops again, where should I look first? After replacing the fuse I drove around with my friends trailer and it was fine. When I got home I hooked up to my dump trailer since I will be working tomorrow and everything worked fine with the new fuse, so I don't think there is a short somewhere since the fuse didn't pop. The only relevant information I can think of is I recently replaced the battery on the dump trailer with a larger capacity deep cycle battery, but I don't see how that would matter. I've had the LED reverse lights on the trailer since I rewired it 1.5 years ago. I don't remember the numbers on them but they aren't a high power light. Maybe if I blow a fuse again I can run a relay with the main power source coming from the dump trailer battery instead of powering straight from the trailer wiring? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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