Jump to content

Timburrr

Silver Member
  • Content Count

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

9 Unskilled

Personal Information

  • Location
    Vancouver Island, BC

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I have had the Timbo APPS in my glove box for a couple weeks here and hoping to have time to get in later this week. Thanks everyone!
  2. Thanks guys. Sorry for the late reply and thank yous on this. Went out of town to see the wife's family for the weekend and we all got sick. I understand the exhaust brake is activated by the IVS but my understanding is the IVS is triggered as recognizing being in idle based on APPS reading. I've noticed my APPS will jump around, sometimes as much as maybe 10%. Not always but a bit. If I'm idling it will periodically blip to 4, 5 maybe up to 8% for an instant between mostly resting at 0%. Also, my alternator reading on my edge bounces between 13.6 and 14.0 but is usually 13.8/13.9. Since previously the problem was fixed with my new batteries it seemed logical to me that it was alternator related. First step will be as recommended try to reset the APPS voltage. If not I will either go through the APPS problem solving steps or just put a Timbo APPS in? Can I confirm my exhaust brake will work with it? Thanks again fellas
  3. The root issue I am having is I am getting the APPS low voltage code. How I realized there was an issue is my BD exhaust brake intermittently will not work at low rpms (and it changes minute to minute what rpm it will cut out at, but usually around 1000 rpms). I checked codes through my Edge Insight and got the APPS low voltage code. So right now, I am leaning towards thinking it is alternator related, but my initial quick test in the parking lot at work doesn't agree with that. I'm going to break up my post into each little point, otherwise I ramble on a long confusing paragraph. Previously, my exhaust brake acted up my batteries tested as being poor to marginal, so I replaced them and my exhaust brake acted completely normal again up until now (I believe that was last summer). AC noise check came in at .022 VAC. I don't know if I believe this though. I had everything turned off (stereo, lights etc) but I didn't unplug the fuse to my A-pillar gauge set or my exhaust brake (but the switch was turned off so I don't think this would be an issue). Also, my multimeter is a hobbyist one: a fluke 17b+ which is an asian market unit, not a solid unit like a fluke 87, and it doesn't read true RMS so my understanding is these readings won't be true. Can this be confirmed? Do I need to get someone with a better unit to test the AC noise? Did I have enough accessories turned off? Alternator voltage came in at 13.7-13.8 at idle. Before turning on the truck battery voltage was 12.71 (Batteries are about a year old and are high quality batteries). Exhaust brake ties into the idle verification system and then I had to manually set the sensitivity on the controller so when I push on the accelerator the exhaust brake kicks off. I guess I should check this connection, because it could be poor I guess? The records from the previous owner (My wife's uncle who passed away) show that the APPS was replaced around 7 years ago or so. Maybe another one bites the dust? I haven't had a chance to find it again but I think I found a detailed flow chart on here somewhere to diagnose APPS. My understanding is I can try to manually put the APPS back into its stock voltage range and the results seem mixed by doing this? Obviously if APPS is bad, purchase and put in a Timbo APPS? Hopefully its not the PCM? I understand they are very expensive and hard to find and sometimes don't even transfer well to a different truck? What's my next move, attempt to diagnose the APPS and/or re calibrate the voltage? Thanks as always!
  4. Timburrr

    Timburrr

  5. Thanks everyone. I can't find the actual manufacturer, I think they are kinda set up to just go through retailers and I get the impression they do not want to be bothered. I'm going to try to find the box they came in because I think it said they are not repairable. I'll look into it though. Maybe I can get some glass cut. I went into the glass shop and they didn't say they could but maybe i'll make a template and try. Not sure what to do about the convex though, he said they can't get that. Thats what I'm worried about with the CH1321315 one. The guy at the parts store said its for a 2010 but will work with mine, and I'm not convinced.
  6. So I was backing my trailer into a super tight spot on a job and got distracted and kissed my mirror on a fence post breaking the mirror glass. Right now I have on after market mirrors (EFXMRDOD98HET) as you can see here: https://www.carid.com/replace/pro-efx-driver-and-passenger-side-power-towing-mirrors-mpn-efxmrdod98het.html I haven't been able to source replacement glass for them, and I am also unable to source just the passenger side mirror with the options I have on (heated, power, with the clearance light). So right now my options are by another full set for $475 or by a different OEM replacement for $370. The guy at the parts store said its for a 2010 but it will fit my 1999. I am skeptical that it will both mount up fine and also have the controls and wiring harness match up. The part number he gave me is CH1321315. Does anybody know if these will mount up and work properly? I am not super happy with the quality of the ProEFX mirrors (the drivers side doesn't sit at 90* when its folded up int he tow position) and the range of adjustability is poor. I also don't like that if I have another misshap then I am buying a full set again. I believe you can buy replacement glass for the OEM replacement. The convex mirror is different which will drive me crazy having a different passenger side mirror than the drivers side mirror but one day I will rectify that. Any advice is, as always, hugely hugely appreciated. Thanks!
  7. Just put my snow tires on today and the lines don't show any signs of rubbing. The old lines felt very soft and flimsy so I'm guessing due to age they got soft and weren't stiff enough to stay away from the tire during a full lock turn. Also who knows, maybe people in the past let the calipers dangle off them or something. Something to be aware of I suppose though. Thanks again for all the help.
  8. Thanks for the replies! I got lucky and was able to get them off without damaging the hard lines. Lots of penetrating oil. My cheapo flare nut wrench wasnt up to the task so I had to go back and get my middle of the line set. I think young to invest in a good set of snapon/proto/gray etc. Using cheap line wrenches is a fools errand. I took a good look and I think maybe the soft lines were just super old and got soft so they weren't springy enough to keep clear of they tires during a full lock turn. The new ones are much stiffer. I know the 3rd Gen rims have a different offset which puts the slightly tighter to the centreline of the truck but I checked on my stock rims/tires which I just took off for the winter recently and they showed rubbing too so I don't think that's the problem. Tires on now are 265/70r17 and other tires are 255/85/r16 if I recall. Something I will keep a closer eye on from now on that's for certain.
  9. Had a fun drive into work this evening. I have about an hour commute and was almost at work and my pedal went squishy. I pulled over and found that my front drivers side soft brake line had worn through and burst. It looks like it is rubbing on the tire when at full lock turn. I have 3rd gen rims and 265/70/r17 wheels on (and tame tires too, not large knobbies). Does anyone know why this would have been happening? It looks like its happening on the passenger side too, but not as bad. I'm not looking forward to trying to fix this, but I'm also concerned that this would have happened and how to prevent it from happening again. Being new years eve, it was tough but my wife just barely made it into the auto parts store before they closed and she is driving me down the parts and some tools and I will try to get it done tomorrow morning after work. I got my truck towed here to work so hopefully it doesn't rain! Does anyone have any advice on changing out the soft line? Everything looks pretty rusty unfortunately, and I'm concerned about things not going my way! I just read a post where Michael mentioned 'rust treatment'. Asking about rust prevention was on my list of to-do's so next time I get a chance I'll give it a good spray down with fluidfilm or something of the like. As always, many thanks for any input! Happy New Year (hopefully yours starts out better than mine)!
  10. Thanks for the input. I ordered the Vulcan set. It was on sale. Just checked and it does have spring clamps so that's very helpful to have the warning not to overtighten. Sometimes I tend to do the 200 lb gorilla tightening. Nothings tighter than stripped, am I right?
  11. Thanks a lot. I think it's a good idea. Get it all done at once and tighten the finances elsewhere. I was only at like 22lbs boost. Probably a combination of bad boot and clamp not tight enough. Not boosting as high or as fast as I should so it's leaking somewhere. I hope the turbo didn't over spin. I couldn't feel any play and there wasn't any oil so I'm thinking I'm safe.
  12. I was towing the 5th wheel yesterday to get it set up for the wife and kids to camp in, and while I was going up a hill I lost turbo boost and my EGTs went up. Pulled over and discovered that the first intercooler boot had blown off of the intermediate pipe. My guess was that the clamp wasn't tight enough or had backed off, so I put it back on, went back at it and half hour later it came off again! Hasn't come on since, but it did seem like it was a little stretched out. I'm thinking I should replace the boots. All I've found is Vulcan or factory boots. Which should I go with? I have a BD Modified HX35, which I believe is essentially an HX35/45 Hybrid. The one thing is with the larger compressor housing the turbo outlet elbow and the intercooler piping don't line up bang on, they are about a quarter inch to half an inch out if I remember right so it puts a small amount of pressure on the boots. I don't think I can really do much about this. Should I just buy the boots? Run keep this one on and watch it? Vulcan? Mopar? I'm surprised I was unable to find OEM style aftermarket ones for a good price. Money is tight right. Well always, but especially now haha. Thanks!
  13. I like having my exhaust backpressure gauge, but right now its just a loose gauge by my gear shifter. My cheap-o glowshift pyrometer gauge crapped out (I still have the Edge pyrometer which is the one I monitor) so I'm thinking of replacing the pyrometer gauge in my A-pillar pod with an exhaust back pressure gauge to clean things up and make it easier to see. From what I can tell, the only difference between a mechanical air pressure, boost, or exhaust pressure gauge from Autometer ore Isspro is the letters on the face of the gauge and the exhaust back pressure gauge comes with a length of copper tubing (which I don't need because I have a stainless part that came with my exhaust brake). Does anybody have any input on this? I'd like to do a bunch of things in one go to save time (and the new cd player I am getting has a bluetooth mike that I will have to run down the A-Pillar). I might also try to do my headliner if I can find the material and what glue to use. Thanks!
  14. I've been meaning to do this soon. Thanks for the link to the article. Do you guys ever use a descaling flush detergent or just run the fresh water through?
  15. Thanks everyone for the help. Haven't decided which deck to buy but I will do some reading and get on it. It will be nice to have all my speakers working and have the bluetooth phone connection.
×
×
  • Create New...