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Everything posted by Leaky88

  1. Mike, thanks I do have an assortment of AC green O-Rings, I was unsure if they were suitable for gasoline.
  2. Hello, My fuel lines rusted and developed a leak. I found a Dorman replacement for the Supply, but none for the return line. Also, at the Fuel Module Connections for these lines, there are some very small O-rings on the Module end fittings which I want replace. Does anyone have experience with replacing these fuel lines and know a source for these O-rings and a new return line? Thanks
  3. I’ve keep this part in my tool box since 89. While in Cuba, I had an Old Willys Jeep. Engine had real issues, and guy wanted it gone, so I bought it. After I got into the engine, the part (pictured) was on each of the Main Bearing Saddles. It’s function was lock the main bearing half in place. But one saddle was missing one, which explained the noise. There was no Internet, and any attempt to find from the States was in vain. After exhausting every avenue, I remembered we had a Ship Repair Facility. Knowing they too are kept on a close leash, I, with “hat in hand”, found a Machinist and explained my dilemma, and showed him the part. He took measurements, made a perfect part, and then made a second one (one pictured) by sight only. He never measured the second free-hand one until he took it off the machine. It too was spot on. Drove Jeep for 2 years afterwards thanks to that Machinist.
  4. I was in a Shore Intermediate Maintenance Activity in Little Creek Va in 85. It was a “massive” Machine Shop that made parts for ships that were no longer available from manufacturers. Sailors would bring in old valves, parts from boilers, you name it. More often then not, they were critical parts from propulsion plant that prevented the ship from getting underway. It was amazing to watch them machine a new part from a failed part, and to such exacting standards. I can only imagine the advancements since then.
  5. OK. With +/- .00025 tolerances, my concerns about current day machining tolerances are assuaged. I’ll put the damn AZ Bearings from 2 different manufactures and call it done. Appreciate being brought up to 2021.
  6. I attempted to get an answer from Timken and National using one of those “GFYS” Contact Links forms companies hide behind. Still waiting…could be a non-work day for Beijing employee tasked with providing a response. I was taught Bearings and Races come as a set and are not to be mixed. Also, new bearings of unlike brands are not to be mixed, as tolerances and metal may not be the same between companies. All my purchases until now consisted of a box containing a Bearing and it’s Race. Has this changed? AZ sold me 2 National 15101 Bearings. I asked where it’s Races were and was told they are sold separately and then offered 2 Timken 15245 Races. I found the same thing on O’Reilly and NAPA sites, Bearings with no accompanying race. I know most Aftermarket Rotors come with a Race installed, but I’ve punched them out and installed my own matched set. So what’s the deal? Thanks
  7. Not a problem, I have a lot of fun with this Truck. I have still not found this fact in the FSM though. Unfortunately, my CRS gets worse with age. Before long I’ll be meeting long time family members and introducing myself like it’s our first meeting.
  8. Appreciate the Feedback. Update: I like to have parts before I start. Rock Auto selection of Hubs has a sea of types depending upon ABS, 4WD, dual wheels etc. So I tried to narrow it down at AZ. Man at AZ kept talking/suggesting “regular wheel replacement bearings/races” and I would not listen, insisting bearing hubs were needed. Turns out, I don’t have bearing hubs. Both the Inner/Outer Bearing on my Front Wheels are replaceable. Perhaps having an Independent Front Suspension, 2WD is reason , I don’t know. ( Or, it could be linked to the different location of my Cruise Light is on the Cluster for those that might recall that rabbit hole I went into.) The strange thing is, I can’t find, or have not found a section in FSM that talks to this. Sadly, I was really looking forward to getting that OEM 22 year old hub, torqued to 280#, and exposed to the elements, but I’m sure there’s another character builder awaiting me in the future. Onward. Thanks Leaky
  9. Thanks. I try to avoid pot holes etc.. Anyone know the longevity/mileage on these hubs?
  10. Was checking front end before making an appointment for alignment and noticed LF wheel has play with hands at 12 and 6 O’clock but NOT at 3 and 9 O’clock. I really have to put some effort into it to feel it, but it’s there. Wheel spins both direction with no noise/grinding (All the bad stuff.) nor do I hear anything at Highway Speeds (If that is possible with a Diesel.) I was hoping it was a Ball Joint, but I see no issues. Any advice? Thanks Leaky.
  11. I appreciate the Feedback. I am so overwhelmed with directions I can go now, I might just learn to do without the “Cruise” light.:) I need to stop looking for problems on this truck.
  12. Silverwolf, Mine is LCD display like a calculator.
  13. By my calculations, 17 Bulbs total are needed. 7-194’s, 10-74’s. If I go with SuperBrightLed, and change everything to LED, total damage is $66.57. Hopefully the soothing glow of these LEDs will put me in a better mood.
  14. Thanks. Who knows why this dash is different from others. I have yet to own a vehicle that was in line with a workshop manual. I have a 99 Ford Ranger I have to search using year 99 and 2000 for correct replacement parts. Think I’ll source from SuperBrightLeds.com, unless someone warns against them. Their website lets one pick specific LED colors to match different lens in dash/vehicle.
  15. I have NOT taken it apart yet. Maybe more is to be revealed. I know the draw on LEDs is small, and I was concerned if it would create an issue with what PCM expected. Below is picture of my instrument panel, pages of my owners manual. Left to right, Check Engine, Cruise, ABS. White arrow points to cruise. Its as GREEN as Ireland.
  16. Cruise DOES work. I know that for certain. I’ve turned it on and off several times, but the GREEN indicator light does NOT come on when it’s active.
  17. Thanks. I too found a large selection. Reviews said some fit, didn’t fit, had poor/less illumination, and short longevity. I guess it’s just a crap shoot.
  18. “CRUISE” Indicator light in dash is defective. Manual indicates it’s a PC74 Bulb. However, if I’m going in to replace 1, I’d like to swap all to LED, if that’s possible, since all my other lights are LED. I thought I’d read discussion on doing this, but searches revealed nothing. Thanks
  19. That’s what I’m talking about. And even with Inch Pounds, you wonder if you should continue to the “click” and/or what the lead time might be on getting a replacement part when it shatters. Hand tools only. No air and leave the Milwaukee Impact in the Tool Room.
  20. Thanks. For certain the fasteners will be torqued in sequence and to specs. I’m just saying there’s a lot of plastic being used on it which makes one wonder if it take any torque without breaking. But, I’m told Dealerships make very little on the sale of the vehicle. The biggest revenue comes from the maintenance and servicing of it once they set the hook in the buyer.
  21. Thanks for replies. I am looking into the vacuum leak. An intake leak is very possible. I’m amazed at the amount of plastic on this engine. Almost scared to use a Torque wrench on it. Just another reason I stay away from new vehicles
  22. No, it does NOT act like it’s only running on 5 cylinders. There is no rough Idle, hesitation. Could be a connector/wire at COP. “Physically” it looked good but never know. Ill check vacuum and #6 compression.
  23. Hello, Nearly all miles have been highway miles. On 2 separate occasions, P0306 code appeared, and then cleared on its own. 3rd time it appeared, all plugs and #6 COP were replaced. Code returned shortly afterwards. Went back in and replaced #6 Injector. P0306 code ever present. P0306 is only code that has ever been presented. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks
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