Leaky88

One of the many good things about this forum is you can always find a new MOD to do when you are in a lull from most “recent” demand maintenance.

No problem. I’m just eager to move on to the next jackpot with this truck.

I have hauled up the White Flag. The Dip Stick #3935648 is correct one for my 99 Engine. It’s same # hdpwimoney has on his 99 year model and the markings on his jibe with mine. But mine indicates Full(upper Safe Mark) with a little less than 9.5 Qts whereas his level lands within SAFE zone marks. I now have a TOTAL of 11 Qts in the Engine now. 11 Qts. brings the reading on my trucks dipstick past the UPPER Safe Mark a distance EXACTLY equal to the distance between the manufacturers Lower and Upper Safe marks on the Dip Stick. So, I scribed a new line on the Dip Stick. It appears you cannot even trust a dipstick reading anymore. Maybe the dip stick tube on mine is different/wrong. Who knows? I found a 2001 article on TDR where a guy with handle “ juicecummins” had this same issue. Thanks Leaky

I called Cummins yesterday to inquire. Once they found out it was a Dodge PU the person was quick to point me to Dodge stating: “Dodge has their “own” specifications.” I thought it was a far question, but you would have thought I was asking the lady to confirm or deny if Bill inhaled or not. i OK. I’ll start a score card and roll with tally. I at least get answers on this a Forum. hdpwipmokey- 11 Qts. Moparman - 11 Qts.

Thanks. Leaky

Hi, Dodge Manual states: 8Qts. to Lower Safe Mark 10 Qts. To Upper Safe Mark. Using ESN I looked up my Dip Stick number 3935648 and it jibes. It also showed 10Qts of oil. I change my oil as follows: I bring Engine to operating TEMP Pull it into shop with a Level Cement Floor at end of day. Place pan. Remove Drain Plug Let drain all night. The next day: I replace drain plug. Prime and Change Filter Replenish Oil. Problem/concern: I am only able to put just shy of 9.5 Qts in total, back into the Engine to bring it to the UPPER Safe Mark. Ive driven truck several miles, and it’s still at the UPPER Safe Mark. The oil pressure is good. Ive heard that some 5.9’s take as much as 12 Qts. According to TDR, there were some inaccurate Oil Level Gauges (aka Dip Sticks) fielded, but my 3935648 is not it. At least to my knowledge and research, it’s not. For me, too much oil is just as bad as not having enough. If anyone reading this has a 99, or input, I’d appreciate your feedback. Id also like to know what the part number is on the Dip Stick. Thanks Leaky.

I have fused the blue wire at the PCM per Moparman’s example. Unless I missed it, a 150 A resettable breaker was also installed in series with the Charger line coming off back of Alternator Where was the 150A breaker placed? Thanks Leaky

That is what I-was thinking also. Aftermarket is all readily found. I have entertained getting the quick change set up but also fear some one draining it just for spite. Thanks Leaky

At what intervals should the drain plug gasket be changed? Thanks Leaky

Thanks. Was curious because instruction read “Trim the sensor harness wires to length to allow the gauge to pulled back from pod or mounting location without disconnecting the connector.” Made sense to me. But while looking at other installs on “wonder-net”, people coiled the excess up. One article claimed the ohmic value of the Lead Wire was critical, and the length should not be altered. Isspro appears to be reputable product. Another case of TMI.

Question concerning “Shielded” Blue Feed cable on Isspro R17021Pyrometer. I have about 18” of excess cable sticking out of meter pod hole. Can this be cut with no effect on accuracy of gauge readings?

Did you install both with manifold and Turbo intact?

Hi, I want install Isspro pyrometer gauge. Lots of well meant advise on YouTube etc., with some contradiction. Questions I have concerning probe placement are: 1) Which is it, the left or right side of the collector, and where? Halfway up, the middle, or top. 2) Do I Drill and Tap in place, or remove Turbo first. Despite the Dollar Store magnet cleanings I’ve watched, doing it in place has me looking up the cost of a replacement Turbo. Of course, removing the Turbo first will have its own challenges given age of fasteners. Any advice or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks Leaky

Thanks. Leaky

Thanks. I went back out and verified there is no trace on the wire. Just a black wire. I took a couple more pics also. There are 2 branches coming off the Loom, 1 going to LF ABS Sensor, and one going to the Proportioning Valve. And the mysterious Black Wire.