Jump to content

Leaky88

Platinum Member
  • Content Count

    72
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Leaky88 last won the day on December 18 2017

Leaky88 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Unskilled

Personal Information

  • Location
    Southern Illinois

Recent Profile Visitors

406 profile views
  1. Hi, Replaced Gear Box and Power Steering Pump an a 96 Ford Ranger XL, 2.3, 2WD, 5sp. I'm bleeding system with MityVac Pump and Rubber Stopper in Reservoir. I have bled system, started engine, bled system again, restarted engine and cycled wheels back and forth 5X. Instructions say I should be able to put 20 in vacuum on it and see no drop in vacuum after 5 mins. Mine continues to drop to 19" and remain so for hours. Repeated test at least 5 times. Left vacuum on it overnight and it might have dropped to 17" max. All PS lines are new, and tight. No visible fluid leaks. Vacuum pump tested, and plastic line between pump and rubber stopper are secured and tight Am I expecting too much or do I need to put the coveralls on again? Thanks. Leaky
  2. I need to purchase a good impact. The Craftsman I bought years ago is getting old like its owner. Seen a lot of IR's in shops and people seemed to like them. Any suggestions, please? Thanks,. Leaky
  3. Leaky88

    16+ more years

    Tried a newer one. I rented a 16 from Enterprise a couple of years ago for 2K RT to Wyoming. I could hear my wife talking, the radio playing and there was no smell of #2. Didn't like it. Never do that again!
  4. Leaky88

    16+ more years

    New to Diesels compared to other's on this forum. I'm 18 months from retirement from this job at least. 800+ employees where I work. The oldest vehicle, a 96 Ford Ranger (Daily Driver), sitting in Parking Lot belongs to me. This past Tuesday was Name your Car Day. I named mine "Paid For". Daughter and SIL bought a new vehicle 3 weeks ago. I got stuck in the dealership watching this wonderful, life-changing experience. Afterward, they insisted on me joining the family at restaurant for diner. (I was so sick at my stomach from watching the transaction, and new debt they took on, I could not eat. True story.) If I get an urge to have a "new vehicle" smell, I go and rent one. MHO Thanks. Leaky
  5. Point taken. For what it's worth, I looked at replacements - ones that I would trust- cost from $29 - $44 out the door. Two replacements I looked at did not have the same type seal which concerned me. (I'm sure a Chinese Engineer took it's compression into account, but I was not sure.) MHO, a Thermostat will either work on not. Naturally, no Cab heat or an overheating condition warrants an IMMEDIATE replacement. The one in my truck was an OEM from Cummins. I tested it, it passed, and elected to go with it. I guess if you are there, and have the money, replacing it is the way to go. Subject change: Mikes article on coolant change, states system takes 6 gallons, and 1 gallon of water is usually left in the block. Question: Does the 6 gallon total include the 1 gallon that goes into the reservoir? Thanks. Leaky
  6. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/gates-33888-kit/thermostat Using the picture in the link for an "example" only, the gasket on right is what the Felpro 35639 looked like. Nothing like the OEM Seal on my "99".
  7. Dieselfuture, I had the Felpro 35639 physically in my hand from AZ. I returned it because it is DOES NOT fit. It is a square-cut and too thick. It has 2 different size lips on it. (I should have taken a picture.) My quote "Thermostat Seal DODGE TK 6, 5.9L Turbo Diesel 2001-03." came directly off the Felpro 35703 packaging. The Felpro 35639 fits like a glove on the OEM 58MM Thermostat and the OD of Thermostat with Felpro 35703 installed is exactly what the it was with the old seal installed. And it is round, NOT square cut. I don't know why there are so many differences between the websites etc. It could be that the Felpro 35639 I have has China stamped on it. Who knows? ( I often buy from Rock Auto and have had good luck with them.) I even looked at an aftermarket Murray Thermostat from O'reily's and it has a thicker Square cut seal that is nothing like the OEM. I'm just trying to share my tiring experience in traveling down this endless gravel road.
  8. Lessons learned: The NAPA seal listed above is perfect fit. Believing it was a re-branded Felpro 35703 I got one from AZ because my small NAPA store would have to order it. Felpro 35703 package says: "Thermostat Seal DODGE TK 6, 5.9L Turbo Diesel 2001-03." (Note: My truck is a 99) Before receiving the info on the NAPA Seal, I had been to Auto zone with my old seal, but everything they showed was a no-go. All the AZ DB showed was a stepped-rubber ring (square-cut) and a paper gasket. No O-ring. Plug for NAPA: [One thing I love about NAPA is they usually have assortments of O-rings in a tray where you can physically look and see what might be a good substitute.] AGAIN, I appreciate all the info and help I got from this forum. Leaky
  9. Thanks for tip. And I am correct in saying NO other sealant is needed between the Engine Block and Thermostat housing?
  10. 015point9, Nothing found on Rock Auto. I thought the Felpro 35639 might work, but closer examination of it at AZ proved wrong. It's way too thick. Leaky
  11. Hi, In process of servicing Cooling System, hoses, etc. I Need to replace seal on a GOOD Thermostat. Found one (1), a with Cummins rebrand for nearly $10. It's an O-Ring with grooved ID. Cummins # 3942454 Seal, D-Ring Anyone know of a better deal? Or a X-Reference. Thanks. Leaky
  12. I serviced the bearings when I installed the new sensors and there is no excess play. So far, the ABS and Brake light only come on when CRUISE is used. I took it into town today (32 miles RT) without CRUISE and no ABS or Brake lights came on. Always something to work on. Thanks. Leaky
  13. Dieselfuture,, No, I have not. My sensors are unique to say the least. Please see picture above. And I cleaned up the tone wheel and removed any excess grease I found. I checked the routing of the sensor wires, ensured all connections were tight. Went into it pretty cautiously after reading Mike's experience.
  14. Update: Cruise Control works now, BUT the Brake and ABS light come on intermittently. I can put the Cruise on and it works fine. Then - without notice or symptoms - the Brake and ABS light will illuminate and stay on until I shut down the truck. When the Brake and ABS light come on, the Cruise continues to work. L and R wheel sensors have been changed as was the one in Differential. I also cleaned and inspected the tone wheels for damage, movement, etc. Now what? Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Leaky
×