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    Douglass Kansas

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  1. I'll start there here in a couple days after it dries up! Been raining day today and supposed snow tomorrow. Oh boy!
  2. In a perfect world I'd get/ make a bracket for a 3rd gen but I just bought this bar and would love if it just worked, which I believe it is finally since there's no audible popping, just through the steering wheel like I mentioned earlier, and it's only when I first start to drive, and then it goes away....
  3. I don't think it's the tie rods though because it was all tight and fantastic until I hit a bump and this whole thing started.... Shitty oriellys suspension parts..... It's not super bad bump steer, if it does anything it'll kinda jerk it out of my hands quick and not very far like nothing's keeping it from doing it like a bad damper, granted cause mines off my dad's 03 that's been sitting for 5ish years.
  4. Well now that you say something about them being parallel, when we installed the new bar, in the shortness of time we had instead of doing it the right way we decided to turn the wheel to separate the frame from the axle so we could slip the bar in. Not my idea, I would have rather had done it right, but my 8 month old sister was awake from her 2nd nap of the day and no one was watching her except my dad and I. So @Mopar1973Man @dripley, if that changes something let me know, don't know if that would cause it all to be unparallel or what, and if all thats needed is an alignment, that would be great! Still doesnt explainn the popping feeling in the steering wheel, that will be next.....
  5. I've been thinking about doing that, I don't know why but I was thinking I'd hear a pop if that was the case but I will check! See and for awhile the bushing end was moving as well, and I definitely had it torqued to spec, with the bigger bolt Dodge upgraded to, and yet it was still moving ever so much.
  6. Got it, thank you for the tip! Still trying to figure out what to use, and not to use, tape/ sealant on.
  7. Sorry this reply is so late, didn't get an email saying anyone responded! I've thought about calling them, but the sticker on the box is so rotted and weathered I have no idea what year it was made or the exact part number, and with my luck with customer service, they wouldn't want to touch the situation or not know how to fix it. I shall give it a try however, thank you!
  8. Sorry guys I didnt see you responded! Email notifications must have been being weird...Anyways! I'm not sure, didn't check really cause for whatever reason I didn't think it was possible.... This bar is on my 01 without the leveling kit, probably should have specified... My bad..... UPDATE: So there's no audio popping sound like the track bar is loose anymore (my truck is strange), but I definitely feel a small pop in the steering wheel when turning either way, could that be a steering box? Steering seems a little loose here lately.... Or something else I've seen, is there's this company that makes a bushing for your steering shaft that they claim the factory one wears down easy and lets the spring move around to much, of which mine does, but still doesn't explain the popping feeling from the steering wheel.
  9. So we acquired a 97 Auto at the beginning of this month and it's got a couple problems, one of which is it has absolutely no cluster. The good ole Okie that owned it before me had a BD Torq Shift box (or something to that effect) on it that started messing up, so he started cutting wires to cut it out and it completely killed all the lights on the dash. So if anyone knows which wires are responsible and can point me in the right direction it'd be much appreciated! I'd look through a 97 wiring diagram if I could find one, but the BD box doesn't give pin-outs or anything, just wire colors and doesn't even tell me where the torque converter wire is either, just the color. The PCM wire responsible for the VSS was cut in half and spliced into a wire to the shift box, and when he removed the box he just cut the wire used to split into the box, but theoretically they'd still be touching so if there are a series of wires responsible for the cluster to work, anyone know which one those are?
  10. Back in October I went ahead and upgraded to the 4th gen tie rods and while I was at it I replaced the track bar, and everything was all peachy until I hit a bump and it dropped out the socket on the driver side and I could never get it to stay, so I returned it and got a Moog bar and I'm still having problems, in fact, it's worse with bump-steer and it's like driving a wet noodle down the road. If torqued them to spec, loctited them, and even stripped the nut on the frame side I tightened it so much, and here I still sit. If anyone has a solution, it would be much appreciated! Thanks!
  11. Holy cow I never would have put those two together! Thanks for the tip! I've been wondering how the heck I'm going to find out my oil temp outside of a new gauge, this makes things so much easier! Should I/ does it need some thread tape?
  12. I'm running brand new Warden 2s in 235/85/16 from Treadwright. I believe once I put on my factory bed I'll get my aerodynamics in line, but outside of cutting speed holes or building something to swoop the air away on the side, I'm kinda stuck till I cut the bed off. Do I need to buy a oil temp gauge or is there a sensor in the Quad program that gives me the temp? Cause I've looked and can't seem to find it. It's basically 0-1 all the way up to about 35, 5 gear is when boost really starts piling on. I can generally keep boost out in 1-4, but 5 is a little tough cause of all of said drag.
  13. Well I don't have much flat where I'm from in Kansas (believe it or not Kansas isn't entirely flat) so it's a lot of up and downs quickly. Driving up a hill can be 13-15psi, down 2-5psi so I can't really tune with flat in mind, or can I? So what are some tips (for after I put on my factory bed since that's next) on tuning lower boost pressures but to burn efficiently? Is that just decreasing fueling under fueling per psi? Bare with me cause I'm still learning. Or If I'm all fuel and not enough air, since I run 8-10psi on average on flat road, wouldn't a bigger turbo work though? After all your are running a 60/60/12 and I'm still on a completely stock hx35, which is what, a 54/58/12? Or somewhere close to that? Granted I still have a lot of drag, but it seems a lot of the people with great mileage have bigger turbos. Me has a he351, you have your 35/40 hybrid, couple even have big compounds and are getting great mileage.
  14. So here's a question and an idea, would a turbo do anything with lowering the load? I have a Smeding 62/65/14 I've been thinking about throwing on the ole girl, either that or I have a stock he351cw. Would either or help with engine load and mileage?
  15. So to up the bar is that sending them back to DAP or can I take them to my nearest certified Bosch pump and injector shop? I have a good buddy who works there that can hook me up on some injector work.
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