Thatguy

What does time = when your getting paid to do it? Edge wants 150 plus shipping for a new one.I'll post back if it works

I guess I don't see the issue, edge told me the modules are identical for 98.5 through 02. The harness is the only thing different. Both sensors use 5v supply. as long as I use the 01 map on my 01 truck it should be happy? I just need to figure the wiring out. Thanks for the help

So after looking at the prints there both 5v supply, the wire orientation is different but I can fix that. Mopar man are you saying the edge module itself won't work? If worse comes to worse I can just leave enough pig tail on the round male connector to resplice it if it doesn't work.

I called edge, they just said I need a new harness

So I lucked out on a edge juice cts, but it came with the wrong map plug. My truck is the 01 and it has the plug for the 99. From what I've been able to find on the Internet is that there different voltages. One being 1.0 and the other being .5, I was wondering if I could just use a resistor to drop the voltage or if there's more to it than that. I'm assuming the map sensor output to the computer is millivolts?

No I did not. Just check gauges from the low voltage

its definitely came a long ways. I think i'll start visiting here more often compared to the others. Better informative information here

Alternator Starter and Parts wholesale. I called to order,there out of florida. The guy even sounded like an American! dam I didn't even know you had a store mike,well my 2wd is reading a little high in AC noise so when I order another itll be through here

ordered new rectifier/diode and brushes for 43 bucks shipped. slip rings look good and bearings feel good so I'm going to leave it at that

Well with my truck running at 8.8-9v when I got home I decided it was best to shut it off and put the battery charger on it. Pulled the alternator off and tested the diode pack. 4 smoked diodes.

So do you have any idea if 40ohms means charge or not charge from the PCM?

Because the alternator only charges when it's told to, via the computer. If the voltage regulator/computer doesn't send the output to the alternator to charge, it won't charge. I just wasn't sure if 40ohms to ground was a good enough ground. Still waiting on me78569 to clear that up

So what exactly does that mean?

So I get the low battery light otw home, barely make it home with my edge reading 9v. I pull the 2 pin plug on the back of the alternator to check to see if the computer is calling for the alternator to charge. On the hot wire I got 9v,the ground wire I get 40 ohms . Isn't 40 ohms to high for the ground? I figured it should read a lot lower, didn't know if that was why my alternator isn't charging or not.

Thanks for help guys I appreciate it

Wow I feel like a retard now. I thought it was single filament lol

I don't know the history of the trans before I got it other than it'd been rebuilt before. There was 4 clutches in there and I put 5 back in,as far as any changes I didn't make any to the backing plate or anything else. The steels measured .085 and I think the fibers were close to the same but I can't Rememeber off the top of my head. Do you run the factory 9 return springs? And what's gained over swapping the spring snap ring for the flat one

IBM, the bulb does light up with the running lights turned on, just won't flash with the blinker turned on. So I can rule out the bulb socket and bulb itself. I'll do some poking around with the meter some more

OK I've been messing with this blinker issue for a little bit now, my drivers side front turn signal won't blink,but the running light works. I've swapped blinker relays, along with the turn signal actuator, and cleaned my grounds. Wtf am I missing?

5 gpz, regular steels. I used the backing plate that was in it along with the same snap ring. When I pull it out to loosen it up am I better off getting a thinner snap ring or a machined backing plate?

Well for my first time rebuilding an auto, this is my only problem that's surfaced so far. If dropping the trans and loosening that pack up is the worst of my problems I'm not to worried

Talked to Dave today and he said having my direct drum at .070 is to tight causing the direct to come on before the band releases. He gave me a few things to try and if that doesn't cut it ill be pulling the trans to add another .025 to the direct.

I can try the backyard method. I also was going to try putting a restrictor in that will slow the direct apply pressure.I blew the oil seal on my top Turbo last night when I blew a boot. So the truck will be down until I get a rebuild kit in.id like to hear what dynamic has to say

I tried sending dynamic a pm but it says he cannot receive messages so his inbox must be full. Yeah that's what i thought to, I've tried contacting Dave from goerend for about 2 weeks now but he's a busy guy and I guess his daughter got married last week. So I understand

Alright thanks