jeremyf9806

OK so it s too much. But be careful it s not a pressure injector tool precision like yours. It s a vevor tool with manometer and it s near to 5000 psi. I would like 4500 psi, but no. So what could be the problem with my injector on the engine?

Hi, I ve checked my 6 injectors and they open about 4800 psi 4900 psi. I dont know if it s too much and if it s the problem.... I have anothers 6 old injectirs to test them too to see the difference...

Hello everyone, in the end I bought an injector auger with an adapter for Cummins injectors. I will try to see that as soon as I have some free time. However I have a question, if for example an injector displays 280 bars on my pressure gauge, how can I adjust it myself and where can I find the adjustment parts to reach 310 bars? Thank you very much.

Thank you very much. I like to learn. It s really very interesting and exciting.

Hi everybody, do you think a bad intake gasket can cause this Kind of problem , because I m waiting for my injectors rebuild with 310 bars, and I would like to change this gasket because it has 250 000 kms....

OK I understand. I dont know what can I do. Because remove all again and again.... wahou..... I think I m going to keep the 75hp to control. If I understand the pressure for these injectors must be at 310 bars ? Not less not more?

Yes, I bought bosch on Rockauto Here's what I did today. First, I changed the complete TPS. Then I tested the continuity of the TPS cables, from the VP 44 to the ECM. Then I changed the lift pump. In the end, it stalls after a long time while it's running. I noticed later, maybe it's a dream, that it stalls on a downhill slope. If I drive in neutral and accelerate slightly from 750 to 1200 rpm, it stalls as if it's drowning in diesel or out of diesel. I restart it, it restarts... I still have these small diesel leaks between the connections of injection lines 1, 3, 4, 5 and the tubes. I tried to loosen and tighten, at the time there is nothing, it appears after acceleration I think. Theseare that I bought on rockauto : :BOSCH 0432193630 These are the same number that I had pull to change them All the continuity tests I've done are good. I forgot to mention that I even tested the lift pump cable, and it's good.... It's so confusing... I dont know if the ecm could be the problem or if these are these small leaks, or if it could be the return line on the tee....

Maybe you re right. But I've changed them 2 times. One was rebuilt to give me 75 more hp. The others are new Boschs that I bought from RockAuto.

I changed the tps. My engine speed is running at 750. I remember that before changing the vp44 the idle was around 840. I wonder what is causing this? because that is the problem. a lower engine speed. It starts well, stays at this speed. I don't know if it is electrical or mechanical. Can I increase the idle speed like on any old car with a screw? Is the ecm playing tricks? Why don't I have any error codes, even when it stalls? It's crazy.... I'm going to change my lift pump to see. I don't think it'll change anything. But just in case...I also changed the T-joints of the return line of the VP44 at the rear of the engine. It's annoying to change them. I don't know if I should tighten them or not.... could that cause the stalling? It annoys me because I love my truck. It helped me a lot, especially to get my wife out of a ravine with her old beetle.... now I'm wondering if the ECM is playing tricks on me too? It's hard to know, especially since there are no codes as I already said..... the worst is that when it stalls I put it back in park or neutral I turn the key and it starts again as if nothing had happened. I engage 1st, if I accelerate it stalls again, if I leave it idling with the speed it moves normally.... it's a crazy story.... and the gears change well too, I have no jump, no slipping, no heating.....

OK thank you very much for all these informations. I like to learn. Thank you. OK. Thank you very much. I like to learn. Thank you

On the diagram sensor"signal" or sensor "supply" is it a positive wire ( + 5 volt)?Because I imagine there is no 12v on ecm or only at pin 48 and 50 it s write fused B+ .

OK. Thank you very much

The little problem for me, Is this the right wire color for my 98.5 Dodge? Because I imagine that as time goes on they deliberately change the color and number... why make it simple when you can make it complicated...😁😁😁

OK. Thank you very much. The photo of the ECM connector with the 50 ways is the photo of the connector as it is on the ECM from the front, wire side, or is it the photo of the connector turned inside out? I'm talking about the first little photo on the left.

Could you tell me wich wires at the ecm May I test . Because I remember when I unplugged it , there are so many wires .... I don't know if I should leave the connector in its position to find the numbers, or if I should turn the connector over? Then I don't know which wires I should test. Should I disconnect the 2 batteries to do these tests? These may be stupid questions, but when you don't know, when you're going on an adventure, it's better to ask before blowing everything up. Thank you very much for these clarifications. I remember it s a connector with 50 pins, but the job is really big ! When you talk about ohm test, is it really a continuity test? I remember only cleaning the ECM connector and its plug with an electronics cleaner. I didn't disconnect anything from it. It wasn't dirty, but since I'm a bit of a neat freak, I like to have clean connectors. Also, when removing the VP44, I had to remove the apps block and push it near the hydraulic booster. I disconnected the apps sensor so I could put it to the side. That's all.