Thessgtcronin

So just started to have this issue. Drove to the grocery store the other day and the truck acted normal. Finished shopping and started driving and the truck would shift into OD. Stayed in 3rd. Pushed the OD button and it didn’t light up to indicate off. Drove it home, cleaned the battery terminals “saw a YouTube video about that” started the truck and the button worked. Shifted through all gears, checked the fluid all was normal. Drove it to work this morning, shifted fine. Next little trip I took about an hour later same little issue came back. 1. Where should I start troubleshooting? 2. Is it ok to drive to and from work like this? Thanks for the help! 1996 12valve AT “47/46 RE” not sure to be honest.

So after getting in my rig today at a local hardware shop I go to put it in reverse and back out. Once I was ready to put her in drive I went to hit the brakes for my gear shift and presto, stiff brake pedal. Damn near had to stand on the pedal to stop it. After some reading I found out that my 96 2500 2wd Cummins has a “vaccume” type brake system for power boost. Looking at the lines on the fire wall I noticed one was popped off and it seemed to fix the brakes. Now Ive recently also had the issue of “zero” in cab air control. It’s defrost vents all the time, looking at that line it seemed loose so I zip tied it, I noticed I may have a hose missing. I think this is where the line for 4x4 guys goes to the transfer case, is mine a vent since it’s a 2wd?

Jumped in the rig (1996 2500, A/T, 2wd) and the truck had a really lazy slow crank like the batteries were dead. Batteries tested "good", new fuel filter, new lift pump. Truck just slowly cranks unless you push the throttle a fraction of an inch. Puff of black smoke and presto, she's running. Idles smoothly, runs solid in town and on highway. Anyone else have the same issue? I've read that these p-pumps were designed to be started at open throttle, but I never used to have to do this. Truck is stock, no mods. Thanks for the time.

When I replaced the lift pump over the summer I went ahead and did the fuel heater delete. The start stays pretty covered and if we are talking about the same thing I don't believe thats it. It seems to be coming from above all of that. Behind the fuel filter near the fire wall.

Yea sorry about that, thought I filled that out. 96 2500 5.9l 12 valve. Roughly 161,xxx miles. 4x2 auto trans

So I can definantly tell where I park my rig due to the fuel stains I leave behind. Where ever its leaking from, the fuel seems to be landing on the top of my starter. Over the summer I replaced a broken lift pump and replaced the metal fuel lines from the top of the tank to where the meet up in front of the fire wall. I've read that these engines basically shake themselves to death causing the return lines to chafe. Anyone know where I can get a fuel diagram to start checking lines? Thanks for the help.

The one on the firewall?

So, I drive a 96 2500 and like most have the "sticky starter" issue. The starter stuck the other night and didn't release as fast as it normally does when this happens. So after listening to the metal on metal for 2 minutes I unplugged the FSS and it stopped running. Plugged it back in and cranked a few times but wouldn't start. Popped the hood after bumping the starter and manually pushed the FSS up. The hold wire did its job and I went on like this for a couple of days. My buddy noticed that the blue wire that has the internal fuse connected to the driverside battery was corroded, so we put a new connector on it. Tried to start it and the wire as well as the FSS got very hot very fast. Couple of hours later went outside to drive it home and it started right up, no hot wires no hot solenoid nothing. Here's my issue, something is draining my battery, the truck sat all of saturday and Sunday and this morning didnt want to crank. I'm good with wrenches, not so good with multimeters. Any ideas?

Thank you Sir @Mopar1973Man

Thanks @jlbayes. I'll try that. My buddy and I will be taking care of the KDP next weekend so we can mess with the idle as well. Is there a certain range? Just so i dont go to high.

Just bought a 12 valve. First few things acting funny so far are the fuel gage. When i top the truck off it stays on full and throughout the trip drops to E and comes back up. 2nd thing, when driving with the AC on, if i pull into a fuel station and go to put it in park from drive she sometimes stalls. Any help much apprecited.