Cowboy
-
Content Count
588 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
14
1 Follower
-
The Rise of the Shawty
Cowboy replied to Cowboy's topic in 2nd Generation Dodge Reliability / Performance
I bought it as a rcsb. Yours must be a blast to drive being 4x4 I bet theirs not much on the street that can touch it. -
That is correct, do you know if they’re are any adapting options for that? Or are you stuck not using it?
-
Yep they are the same.
-
Explain to me how the 47re shifts
Cowboy replied to Me78569's topic in 2nd Generation Dodge 24 Valve Powertrain
The easy way is to buy a manual valve body kit from Transco, it’s gonna include the new valves and springs you need to both convert your trans to full manual as well as bump your pressures up to help your trans hold power. -
Howdy guys, it’s been some time since I was at all active online, but hopped on to see what was new and figured I’d let y’all know my current project. About a year ago I bought the shawty, it’s a 1995 rcsb. did the basic round of mods, maxed 180 pump, injectors, a s362, and a transmission that could hold it. Did 540hp on that setup that setup was a blast to daily drive, but I wanted to play with something new, so I decided to common rail swap it with some pretty good size wirly boiz all this was done in a rush to try and make i
-
Cowboy changed their profile photo
-
How to Replace a Power Steering Gear Box
Cowboy posted an Cummins article in Axles, Suspension & Brakes
How to Replace a Power Steering Gear Box OK first, when removing the pitman arm, don't worry about marking it so you can put it on the same way. It's splined and can only go on 4 ways. First step, remove the pitman arm nut, it's a 32mm if I remember correctly. Then install your puller, make sure to grease it up plenty. I made my own but I'm pretty sure Harbor Freight has one for a decent price. Just make sure to use it within 89 days of buying it! After soaking it for a week in PB blaster, giving it a fresh shot every day. And then fighting tha -
DIY Hotrod Power Steering Pump First off this can all easily be done in the truck, took me about 30 minutes the first time. Unscrew the output line, this will also empty the resivoir, so flushing the system at the same time would be a good idea. Then unscrew the fitting the output line screws into. Here you can see the order of the things coming out, and should go back in. In the picture the pressure relief valve is dissasembled, so it will only be one piece. To mod the pump, drill the hole through the center of the plug out larger, stock
-
How to fix a leaking Cummins radiator drain plug. This is a super simple fix. Anyone with some needle nose pliers and a flat screwdriver can do it! First thing you need to do is locate it, which, if you found this article, you likely have already done. If not, it's on the bottom, drivers side of the radiator. Now you'll want to drain the radiator of all the coolant, If your fancy automatic drain valve didn't already. You can drain it into a couple jugs so you can reuse it (prepare for up to 5 gallons). I would suggest getting used to using a syphon
-
Holset Turbo Specs There seems to be a lot of miss information on this topic, so I'm going to help clear it up some. First off what do the numbers mean, for instance a 56/60/12? The First number is the Diameter of the Compressor Inducer in Millimeters, in this case it's a 56mm compressor wheel. The Second number is the Diameter of the Turbine Exducer in Millimeters, in this case it's a 60mm turbine wheel. The Third number is the exhaust housing size in cm2, I'm not going to go into this, but generally speaking, bigger equates to laggier down low, but more power up top.
