Jump to content

trreed

Gold Member
  • Content count

    1,150
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    21

trreed last won the day on August 10

trreed had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

583 Proficient

About trreed

  • Rank
    Mini Tyler

Personal Information

  • Location
    Golden, CO

Recent Profile Visitors

1,278 profile views
  1. trreed

    P pump conversion

    The biggest thing is pulling the cam to be able to change the gear case to a p-pump style case. Then there's the timing gear change (most go for an adjustable timing gear which then you lose your breather) and lines, TPS bracket, FSS wiring, high rise intake plenum, pump bracket and oil feed, and obviously the pump itself. Then, you have to ensure your fuel system is up to the task of feeding the p-pump at 20 psi minimum. Injector change is not required. As a higher horsepower truck, my VP is my limiting factor anymore. But I still like it, and when this one dies I'm going to have to seriously weigh if I do the swap.
  2. trreed

    'The Boost Bus'

    Well, I just purchased a tuner for it, so here goes nothing. Plus, we aren't in our home state where a boat can easily be plopped in the water that's close to your house.
  3. trreed

    Diff fluid change

    You are correct. Moving too fast and grabbed the wrong picture. But, he won't be able to see the clutches on the trac-lok either. I'd be surprised if he could see the side pinions. I couldn't when I had my carrier out recently.
  4. trreed

    Let loose

    Mike's been practicing just like this.
  5. trreed

    Diff fluid change

    Dana Trak-Loc is set up different. You won't be able to see the clutches, as the carrier is a covered case that splits in half, and there isn't a spring. You will only be able to see the end of the cross piece that holds the 4 spider gears.
  6. trreed

    Time for a clutch

    Well now there's a question with a ****load of variables. Machining tolerances of both the crank and the rear cover will affect it, as well as the tolerances of the seal itself. Was the crank machined 0.0005 larger than spec while the seal was formed -0.0005 below spec? There's quicker wear on the crank and more chance of leaking. Does the seal fit tight enough in the rear cover that the sealant is more effective than a looser fit? What kinds of heat cycling has the seal seen? How much lateral and axial play is in the crankshaft? Is the seal true or out of round? This list can keep going for a long while. Sure, you can calculate an 'average mileage' for the seal life, but with so many outliers in both directions an average won't mean much.
  7. trreed

    Time for a clutch

    I would leave the rear main alone if it's not leaking. Nothing is better than stock.
  8. trreed

    Diff fluid change

    IF you need friction modifier, 10 oz of Ford friction modifier is what you want. It seems to act the best. None for the front as it is not a LSD.
  9. Both have steel mesh in them for separation. The stock vent is higher up on the crank case so in theory it will do a better job of separating oil out purely because it's harder for oil to get up there. I like the 12v style because it is more of a direct path for the pressure to escape, but it is lower on the block. Ideal would be the venturi system in the exhaust.
  10. I can't tell, as both of my breathers terminate in the same location. A vent is a vent, but I like the idea of having one on the side of the block. If you go to a 12v style tappet cover, you'll have to remove the stock lift pump bracket as it interferes. A BBC fuel pump block off plate will work to cover the hole, or I trimmed my bracket down to cover it.
  11. trreed

    Let loose

    With your current injectors and tuning, a 62/68/12 would be a good fit. I have seen that setup (with slightly different tuning) make 502/1214 on a dyno a 7000' elevation. Remember, boost isn't the only thing you want to see. You want to see air flow as well. With your 3.55's, a set of 245 tires will bring your final ratio to 3.69:1, which is better for more torque to the ground, but it will look goofy. the MADS tuning you're talking about is a Smarty. Your quadzilla will already do everything the smarty will plus more, but just in a different fashion. Trick to getting it to rip like you want is the smaller tires and bringing the fuel in harder and sooner with the quadzilla.
  12. I also have two breathers, stock and a 12V style. It splits the pressure relief better, but both hoses of mine (routed to the same place on the frame) have oil residue there.
  13. trreed

    Well the Order is in

    Finally! You could sell that front bumper to a sucker with a 2nd gen for probably the price of a monthly payment
  14. trreed

    'The Boost Bus'

    Or a ZF5/ZF6 swap
×