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Found 101 results

  1. Anybody here have any tricks to getting the VP44 out of the back of the case? Trying to get the pushrod cover gasket replaced. I have removed everything including the nut and lock washer on the end of the pump shaft and 4 nuts on the pump. TDC is set but that o ring is being a mother! I don’t really want to beat on it to get it out, and prying does little but separate it just a hair on the lower driver side (Only place I can get some leverage). Truck has almost 300k on the Odo, but the pump has been replaced at least once. That O ring in there is really on there good. Any ideas?
  2. You are never going to believe it, the vp44 CAN be "rebuilt" in your shop/garage/lean-to!! Since my pump went out I have been feverishly searching for a cheap fix or the at least the cheapest rebuild I could possibly find……how does about $40.00 sound?!?! I have researched this in depth and found the common problems that cause vp44 failure, most of them are manufacturing process related (burrs left on metal components, pump case wearing through due to lack of lubrication, and parts seizing due to improper lubrication) Once the components have worn down they seize and of course the pump stops working, the less common failure is the electrical pack solders become weak and loose their proper connection, the connections could possibly be re-soldered but for the most part, when the electronics fail the pump has to be sent in as the electrical pack is calibrated to connect to the ECM on a calibration bench and unless you have a 100k to drop on a bench you may as well get a reman pump. As for the rest of the internal moving parts, it seemed to me you could just replace them….better yet, I found a guy that simply honed the parts and sanded them down with some fine grit sanding paper to relieve the clearance on these parts, he replaced the gaskets and lo and behold….his truck is now running!! I am in the process of ordering the gasket set he found and also am looking for the proper tool to remove the tamperproof bolts that hold the pump together, within the next couple weeks I will be attempting to rebuild my pump assuming the internal parts are seized and the electronics pack is not toast, once I have it apart it should be relatively obvious what the culprit is….. Here is a link to the site I found this information on, http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/dev/vp44-rebuilding-t111329.html in this thread you will find the part number as well as the contact information for ordering the gasket set to fix what is a ridiculously expensive problem for an otherwise excellent truck. This already worked out for at least one guy that had a bit of common sense and know how, I see no reason the same line of thought wouldn’t take care of many peoples vp44 headaches!! GAWD I HOPE THIS WORKS!!!!!!!
  3. Hey everyone, New member here but long time reader, I recently bought another dually (lucky number 3) to replace my 2000 24v. Sorry in advance for the long post, just want to give all info Amazing truck and very well built, however.... i bought it and the abs module was unplugged, never really considered this a problem ( not a fan of abs) but im sure you all know that the speedodoesnt work without it and is a requirement for certification in Ontario. So i plugg the moduleback in, everything is fine...until it isnt, the truck began to stutter at various rpm (changed ECT Sensor) once i did that the "Stutter" was only in 6th gear at 2100rpm (had a comp box and a CAT 95gph LP at the time) Unplug the Module and everything is right as rain and has excellent power. Decided to switch over to a fass (in case of contamination) and also switched to the Juice w/Attitude ( just a personal preference... i love the dummy settings because im a dummy) Changed the MAP at this point because i had no electronic reading for boost. Plugged back in at this point and test drove it for about 5 minutes before the issue came back. I am stumped on this one gentlemen, I sure hope someone has encountered this issue before. Thank you in advanced. Chad Pressure @ VP >16psi....Boost Max 47psi...EGT never exceed 1200F* 2002 Dodge Ram 3500 Sport (Daily/Plow Truck) -Edge Juice w/attitude (unlocked plus EGT on manifold) -BD Super B Special -BD SS Manifold -BD Intake Horn -Hamilton 100lb Valve Spring -Hamilton Pushrods -ARP 625 Headstuds -Southbend 3250 Clutch -Hewitt Mechanical Gauges (Fuel,EGT{After turbo},Fuel Pressure) -Fass 150 gph LP -Colt Cam (Big Stick) Stage 3 -VP44 (100+ aftermarket)
  4. First time poster, appreciate all the info exchanged here. 2001 2500 ETH (six speed) 245HP (I have owned the truck since new - June of 2000) I think the current (subject) VP was installed by me around 2003??? and is the second replacement pump on this engine. I have always changed fuel filters and "check" lift pump pressure with a mechanical gauge which is anywhere from 6 PSI WOT to 12-14 PSI (25 second no start check). I have a FASS DDRP installed (2011), (new overflow valve and fuel drain valve installed recently. So......I am here looking for a little help I have had an intermittent dead pedal about one year now.....It has progressively gotten worse over time (more frequent). About two months ago I had a first time extended crank start maybe 4-5 second delay. Unusual part about this new issue was that it would only have the delayed start in my driveway on a slight up incline. If I turned the truck around (inclined down) it started normal (immediately) and when it was on level ground it also started normally. I continued to drive the truck and decided to replace the fuel filter and check the pressure.....all seemed normal so I did some reading and decided to change the overflow valve and gaskets and tighten the fuel return banjo on the back of the head. All seemed good for a few weeks and my "incline" delayed start issue was gone also. Few more weeks later I started it one morning and it immediately started but oscillated up and down in RPM for a say 10 seconds. Drove the truck and power was really low and dead pedal would come and go as well as now the engine sounds like its "detonating" engine sounds like a bucket of bolts. Engine has a totally different (louder) engine noise than normal. Did some more reading and I have been driving around with a clear hose under my wipers and my mechanical fuel pressure gauge for three weeks now. No air in the system and FP is normal. I even ran new hoses from the bed to the transfer pump and back to 5 gal of fresh diesel in a can and no change. Also thought I may have a bad batch of fuel so I drained the tank and refilled with fresh good fuel and again....no change. The only code it has ever thrown is P0122 APPS. I did the "blue chip" APPS troubleshooting and I am fairly confident its not the APPS. I am starting to believe it is either fuel valve solenoid (between the six distribution valves) or the advance solenoid or the computer (PSG) on top of the VP. I want to believe its the fueling solenoid as I have no timing codes set. But if the PSG commands XX fuel and correspondingly fires the fueling solenoid I don't think its getting any feedback as I don't think it measures flow? The questions I have are: 1. Can the PSG (computer), Fueling solenoid and advance solenoid be individually tested? 2. If the PSG is bad I already know if it gets replaced the pump has to be calibrated on a Bosch EP815 test stand. 3. If I can find and replace either solenoid will I get away without needing calibration? 4. Could it be the timing piston or another mechanical issue inside like a clogged mini screen? This is driving me nuts as I like many, can't stand paying $1,250 for an exchange VP44 Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Leo
  5. This is my first time reaching out to a forum for help. So please be patient with me. My 2001 Dodge has me stumped. Sorry about being long winded. My truck right now so underpowered it is unusable. 2 years ago noticed a significant loss of power. The truck threw the VP44 code. I bought a remanufactured VP44 from alligator performance in ID & changed out the lift pump. I put on about 100 miles and everything appears normal. I then loaned my tuck to a friend to tow some stuff about 800 miles. During his trip, he received a stellar deal on some fuel from Mexico. From looking at the fuel filters I guessing it was mud mixed with a little diesel. After suspect fill up he tows about 300 miles and calls me reports huge loss of power. He also tells me about his huge score of cheap suspect diesel but everything will be okay that filter will clean it and the truck has a water sensor. At the time I thought he was just pulling my leg. 100 miles later, he calls me to tell me the truck has been sputtering for the last 30 miles the AC quit working and now the truck died. When on the phone he tries to start the truck. It starts. I asked him to check the fuel filter. He tells me he is running late and cannot afford the time to check the filter. Against my instructions, he drives the truck with empty trailer another 200 miles. When I get the truck back, I check the fuel filter. It is covered in mud & slime. I drain the little remaining diesel that’s left in the truck. It looks like muddy water. The next 100 miles I go through 4 more fuel filters. Then the filters stop plugging up and everything appears to be normal. Might be important.. ***Loss of power noticed when I get the truck back*** I don’t know if the truck overheated. It was outside Phoenix in the summer where it just died on my former friend. The truck is all stock except for gages and lift pump. I did not have gages on the truck when my friend used it. No oil in water or water in oil. No consumption of fluids. The motor has 200100 miles. Tested turbo system to 19 LBS and its good. No leaks in the intercooler or boots. When I stomp on the gas the truck the lift pump is still pushing out 10#. I think the EGT’s get a little hotter than they should be. The truck will drive empty at 75. If you put any load behind it it’s only doing 45-50 if I’m lucky. 12,000# trailer up a hill outside St George the truck would only do 12MPH. In the past same hill same load it would do 40MPH no problems. Truck starts up and runs fine. Running down the freeway occasionally it will seem like a miss for a half a second then it’s back to running normal. I think that there is a slight difference in motor sound now vs before. It seems to be using much more fuel than before. However when I get on it there is no tail tail black smoke from the exhaust. The cruise control just recently quit working. If that helps troubleshoot anything. I’m looking for ideas.
  6. Experienced a dead pedal for the first time heading up the Blue Mountains last month on a trip to Seattle. Didn't recur again for a day, but occurred periodically on the return trip home. Seems to be under light load - last freeze frame shows 8.2%. No CEL, but found the DTC P0216 when I plugged in the scanner today, no other codes. I have 2 questions: First, I'm trying to follow the article (P0216 Fuel Injection Pump Timing Failure) and properly diagnose the problem. Where is "See FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING in ON-VEHICLE ADJUSTMENTS - RAM PICKUP - DIESEL article." located? I can't find it anywhere here. Second question: Does it matter? From what I'm reading, is the pump doomed? I've seen references to the "Death Code". If I'm just buying time by going through the diagnostics, I'd rather replace both pumps now and be done with it and have a reliable truck. I really don't want to waste a bunch of time and repeated repairs. Thanks!
  7. I just want to get everyone's thoughts on tapping my injection pump. From what I've read, if the pump is going to fail from being re-manufactured improperly it will fail within the first month or couple thousand miles. I've had my industrial injection on since Christmas and have had Zero issues. I have a stealth plate, but they can still see the pricked wire when it's torn apart, and they can see the top bolts have been removed ( Probably voiding the warranty ). I'll probably be putting my he351cw on in the beginning of June and I think the comp, 100's and turbo would match really well. Let me know what your thoughts are! Thanks in advance
  8. Was looking through Fuel pump options and came across this place. industrialinjection.com They rebuild fuel injection pumps for diesel engines and tout their abilities, as do all companies, however, may be something to it... http://www.industrialinjection.com/shop/category/pumps/dodge-injection-pumps/ Curious if anyone knows of these guys or not, interested about experiences.
  9. Well i think my VP just bit the dust, truck was running just fine i left it running went in a store came out 10 mins later truck wasn't running, It cranked right up idled fine but when i gave it throttle it was not having it exhaust was gurggly and sputtered alot, so i limped it home about 10 miles going maybe 20-30MPH it would clear for maybe 3-5 secs at a time then cut back out. I got codes P1693, P1689, P1688,P0252,P0251,P0232 which = VP44 bad. I checked my fuel filter housing and it was full of fuel and it is still getting plenty of fuel so the Lift pump is good as far as i can tell, is it possible for it still work and the VP be crap? I also cracked the 1st and 3rd injector from the front and cranked the truck i got fuel but not much it sprayed ok but was foamyish. I checked the plugs on my ECM all tight and clean also checked all wires/plugs on the VP and Lift pump. I don't have a FP gauge installed truck is all stock still has the Void sticker on the VP With 285,XXX Miles Sorry about the long post, I have the money to go get a new VP and lift pump but i'd prefer not to if not needed i hate wasting $$$, I am capable of doing the work myself id just like to have some experienced help, So if there is any one near by who is experienced with taking the VPs off and such or has a fuel pressure gauge and wouldnt mind giving me a hand id greatly appreciate it, I'd help with fuel/Beer your pick haha Thanks in advance
  10. Check this out, never heard of this. Scroll down to almost the bottom of the page. http://hoeslidiesel.com/store/page2.html Connector,VP44 Injection Pump Repair connector for the VP44 injection pump. Fault code P1689(no communication between VP44 and ECM) is a common problem when this harness goes bad. Pins in this connector can wear out and not seat properly to VP44 pins. Why replace the entire $1,000.00 engine harness when you can replace the connector?
  11. Now I got code 216:cry: after code 230 cleared by itself. Truck runs smooth as glass with no symptoms:think:. Has new Raptor 100 with the harness. Running 17.5 fuel pressure. Volt meter shows 13.1 volts at the lift pump when you bump the starter. Batteries at 13.6. fuel relay in the PDC tests good. Both filters changed 3,000 miles back with A clean and clear bowl on the Racor filter bowl.Okay, should I switch out the primary filter (suction side) from a 45 g.p.h. to a 90 g.p.h.? Might have too much restriction. I know I can pull f/p from 17.5 down to 14 with half inch fuel lines all the way.Should I not go to Yosemite with the 216 error code? It's a 1300 mile round trip... T.I.A.
  12. So I have a 2001 dodge cummins with the 6 speed manual, it has 50 horse injectors (50k on them) new vp44 (20k on that) the batteries are fairly new. It also has a pacbrake, air dog 150 which was installed before the new VP44 and a holset turbo that pushes a little more boost than stock and it also has a 4 in straight pipe. The issue with this truck is I have a miss and I called the kid tonight and he bought the APPS sensor from dieselsource.com and HE DID NOT CALIBRATE it. He told me he was getting his dead pedal in the same area I said it was missing at. I have cleaned the IAT sensor, probed the ECT and it all checked out good the only codes are a P0500 ( speed sensor signal ) and P0118 ( self created high voltage in ECT sensor while testing it). So tonight I pulled the battery cables followed the steps exactly and after I turned the KEY back off after calibrating it, I started it and idled it up and the miss started at 1200 RPM and went through 1700 and then in a few mins it only isolated to around 1500-1700.So my main question is what can happen if you DO NOT calibrate the APPS, and any advice on this situation would be very helpful. I am about to sell this truck and I NEED TO FIX THIS!Thanks, Corey
  13. Here is my deal, My truck was running fine then just died sort of felt like it jumped out of gear but that could of been the loss of power. Refire run really rough only idle no foot feet response. Now doesn't start at all. So what I have learned so far is pump must of went.So my truck is a 99 but I have a pump on a 2001 motor is it the same? I sort of want to be sure I'm 600 miles from the 01 pump and don't want to rent a car and drive that far if it might not work. Thanks
  14. Sorry I am new on here but have been on other sites that told me things that weren't exactly right. Just if someone is wondering the VP off a 2000 (so) with auto trans. will work on a 2001 (ho) with 6 speed. I made the switch about 500 Miles ago at first I thought it was the IP and swaped the pumps, it turned out to be the APPS. The pump off the 2000 (so) works just fine on the 2001 (ho). '
  15. I would like to upgrade the performance of my truck and as far as what i have been told i will only be able to try for around 100 hp without a new trans or upgrading the stock trans. I am going to start by removing the resonator and muffler. Then upgrading the p-pump and restricting the turbo wastegate as well as changing the air box and filter. the final part to my puzzle will be a box ie. comp edge. please let me know if i am leaving anything out or if there is another order in which to proceed.
  16. my truck is throwing 4 different codes 1693 1689 0382 0380 and well the vp44 has around 420k miles on it so im thinking that its the pump but i figure i will get some insight first... i was just driving to work like normal and the thing i could feel was losing power and by the time it was ready to get off the hwy turbo was full blast and fuel to the floor and would only do 75 barely and i made it about another 3 miles and it almost shut down and threw those 4 codes and now she is just setting in the driveway....
  17. Today my truck started bucking when I was driving. I know my lift pump was weak but I've been strapped for cash so I haven't changed it yet but now I think I'm paying for it. Just wondering if the bucking is characteristic of a blown VP44? Also when I was driving I noticed that when I curved to the left it really lost power and ran rough but when I curved right it ran much better, any ideas on this?
  18. Somone correct me if I am wrong!If my truck is running, and I supply power to the coil of my lift pump relay!Now I turn off the ignition will the engine stay running until I remove power from the lift pump relay?If nothing else stops the engine then that will allow it to run?
  19. So I got the vp out, it wasnt that bad, and I didnt drop the key, so Im pretty happy right now, altho the thought of droppn all that cash for another one sux! Anyway when I was looking over stuff on the net and in the manual ect, it was suggested to change the sensor that is right behind the vp, and I cant remember where I saw that at or what it was called, its pretty much right behind the vp, can anyone tell me what its called?
  20. Got me a better gauge today and checked my pressure on my lift pump. Got a 0 to 30 psi gauge.On starter bump i get 14 psi.start engine and run im getting 12 psi at idle.Put truck in gear, hold brake and acelerate i run at 9 psi when really pulling hard.So I'm hoping that is good enough for my stocker around town.OH yeah! I never realized how stupid I am.I realized I have a intercooler on my truck! Duh! I was thinking it was my air conditioning condensor.Like they say sometimes you can't see the forest for the trees.
  21. Anybody know what this does specifically? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320569115318&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT
  22. Hi All,I've been getting occasional 0216 codes since January. Today it took a long time to start and then wouldn't accelerate at all. Idle sounded normal, but it just stumbled when I pressed the pedal. I pulled the codes and got 0253, 0251, 0216, 1688 and 1693. Looks like its time for a new injector pump, and a new fuel pump, and oh yes, gauges.I'm thinking a stock VP44, Air Dog 100 and fuel pressure, pryo and boost gauges. Anybody have any good or bad experiences with any particular vendors? Thanks
  23. Time for another question!Where is my fuel shut off solenoid located on my 2002 24 valve?Thanks Ahead
  24. Does anyone have the dimensions for the VP44 gear puller? I want to make one for almost free rather than paying $40 + for one.
  25. Ok guys here it is I got this code after I plug the OBD II scanner tool on this truck I just bought. The previous owner told me about this problem , when the truck is running at speeds of 60 o 70 the pedal wont respond and the speed goes down and I have to lower the speed by braking or putting it on neutral and then it will respond. What do you guys think?
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