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SilverMoose last won the day on May 8 2020

SilverMoose had the most liked content!

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About SilverMoose

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    Self appointed knower of nothing

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  • Location (City, State)
    Vero Beach, Florida

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  1. I'm assuming you have the air dog ddrp? I just put one of them on after my fass ddrp went south. It seems that the air dog reacts slower than the fass as I noticed what you mentioned. The fass reacts faster for some reason Later D
  2. I was in a similar situation. I typically use the floor/vent combo almost exclusively. I just like it that way. Unfortunately in the winter, the AC would always run. I simply added a switch to the low pressure valve and can turn the AC off whenever I choose. Works great Later D
  3. Thanks for the info. What a difference a resistor makes. Even down here in Florida, It's so much quieter. IAT at 144 with resistor. L8tr d
  4. I've done some research about adding a resistor to to the IAT connector as an MPG fooler. Is this an acceptable method? I wonder if it can affect anything in the engine when the outside temps are cold and the IAT is set at 143 degrees. After thinking about it for a while, I bet an arduino could be used to ramp up the IAT while monitoring the ECT. That could be an easy thing to do with a few relays and different resistors used to change the IAT. Say when you start the truck and it's cold out, a relay could close and send the actual IAT temp out. As the truck warms up, other rel
  5. Thanks again for all the input. Turns out I needed to put the alternator on the back burner. The Tuesday before turkey day my lift pump took a dump. It was a FASS DDRP and the shaft seal went on it. Got home form work and fuel was leaking pretty good out the weep hole. Thank goodness for Amazon. I ordered an Airdog DRP the day before turkey day and got it the day after. I find the Airdog to be quieter than the FASS and I like the adjusability of it. I'm glad I move it to in front of the tank. Makes the change a lot easier. I plan to get to the alternator this weekend. Got
  6. Thanks for all the suggestions. I need to digest them all and and determine what my best approach will be. Nations alternator on top of the list. I need to check all the connections first. Have a great Thanksgiving! L8tr d
  7. Hey everyone, I hope all is well. I currently have a Bosch alternator and even with the WT mod I am experiencing high AC ripple. I plan to replace the alternator and am wondering if I can replace it with a Denso unit as they seem to be more plentiful than the Bosch units. I also plan to keep my stock alternator and rebuild it with a new rectifier, bearings and brushes. Has anyone rebuilt their Bosch alternator? I'm curious if it is easy to do. I have found a replacement rectifier online so they are available. Thanks and I hope everyone has a happy Thanks
  8. Finally, I am able to get back here. After thinking about this for way too long (one of my downfalls is I way over analyze things) I have to agree with @Dieselfuture about this. I am going to scantool.net and post there about my issues. I appreciate your thoughts and will update if I find anything. Thanks again d
  9. That was one of my first thoughts. Maybe they made some major changes to the software or firmware. Up until a few months ago when I noticed this my normal loads were so much lower. What I do remember is 13% load (0.7 gal/hour fuel) in gear a/c on. That would be quite a drastic change. That was another reason I borrowed a friend's to confirm numbers and his read the same high numbers. Thx Dave
  10. Hey folks, I hope all is well and everyone is making it through these unprecedented times. I posted a little while back about an unusually high load on my engine. I knew I was due for some new injectors as I’m currently at around 145k miles. I finally got to install the new RV275’s over the weekend. While I had the valve cover off I adjusted the valve lash as well. What a difference that made. The truck runs so much smoother now. A nice little boost in power feels good too. It’s seems to be less noisy. About all I can hear is the VP44 clattering away now. Link to post
  11. I figure if I need new ones, I might as well upgrade a little over stock. Do I need to, no but a little extra night be nice. Who knows maybe the trains will last another 200k. How's that for wishful thinking. l8tr d
  12. @Me78569 thanks for the input. Now for the question... I would like to wake the moose up a little. RV275 or some 50hp sticks? RV's are VCO I believe but what about SAC (for the 50's)? I don't hot rod it too much but a little extra go may be nice but don't want to hurt the trans but realize it will probably need a rebuild some day. I was thinking about keeping the stock injectors. That way when I finally rebuild the trans I can rebuild them larger and add quad. Thanks again.
  13. Hey guys, it’s been a while since posting but I have been checking in. Life is really getting in my way. I hope everyone is well. Now on to my issue. For the past few weeks my load (from OBDlink) at idle in gear has been very high. It’s higher now than when I’ve had my AC on previously. When at idle and in park it bounces between 0% and 4%. It’s when I put it in gear that it jumps up to above 15% (typically 18%-20%). I’ve also notice that my fuel rate has jumped to levels higher than when my AC was on (somewhere between 0.7 and 0.9 gal/hr). When I do have my AC on the load
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