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Found 142 results

  1. Okay guys I'm new to the forum here and I need some help. I have a 1999 24v and on my way to work the other day my truck died on me and completely shut off in the middle of the road. It didnt have any weird symptoms before this happened it just died and now will not restart. Any ideas as to what this could be or where I could begin trouble shooting this?
  2. Fuel Pressure Specification For Bosch VP44 Injection Pump

    Fuel Pressure Specification For Bosch VP44 Injection Pumps Here is a copy of the fuel system specifications from the Dodge Factory Service Manual. This is for your Dodge Cummins Turbo diesel truck with a Bosch VP44 injection pump. Fuel pressure Normal fuel pressure should float about 14-15 PSI running down the pavement. It should never fall below 10 PSI at all. Here is a colorize fuel pressure gauge to give you a clue of the fuel pressure span you want. You want the needle to stay in the green at all times. Yellow zone is a warning that you should check the fuel filter, lift pump performance, overflow valve, etc. This is undocumented maximum pressure is 20 PSI. Now take notice to the overflow valve is set for 14 PSI so excessive pumping of fuel does nothing for performance except create more heat in the fuel, which in turns reduces the cooling ability of the fuel and adds more stress to the lift pump. So a little extra fuel pressure is a good thing because it ensures the Bosch VP44 injection pump stays cooled and lubricated properly. However, excessive fuel pressure will heat the fuel and reduced the cooling ability of the fuel. Now always remember that the only lubrication the Bosch VP44 injection pump will see is the fuel itself so if you don't have enough fuel pressure it will cause damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump. It's like the same as running the engine with low oil pressure it will continue to run, but the damage to the engine will occur. On the other hand, the Bosch VP44 injection pumps, which happen to be about $1,200 to replace. Pressure Drop The amount of fuel pressure drop between idle and wide-open throttle. 2-3 PSI drop from idle to WOT is normal. However, 5 PSI or more pressure drop from idle to WOT is pointing out a failed lift pump, plugged filter, and/or plumbing restrictions. 2-3 PSI Is Normal Dropping more than 5 PSI is pointing towards a failed lift pump, plugged filter, or restrictive plumbing. Just to show you the difference in the stock plumbing which is 6mm ID plumbing and most performance pumps come with 1/2" ID plumbing. These pictures will give you an idea... The first picture is a Big Line fitting over the top of the stock plumbing. Then the second picture compares the stock 6mm ID steel lines to a 1/2" ID Big Line hose. The best way to show this example of restrictions is to let's say your house is on fire. You know your garden hose has 80 PSI of pressure, but the garden hose is only 5/8" ID hose. Your wife calls 911 and gets the fire department coming in the meantime you keep fighting the fire with your little 5/8" garden hose and losing the battle. The fire department shows up and pulls a 2 1/2" hose off the truck and charges it at 80 PSI and now winning the battle. Your fire is put out! What is so different? No matter what the size of the fuel line will dictate how much volume can be pushed through the fuel line. Like the story above the water pressure was the same at 80 PSI, but the hose size jumped from 5/8" to 2 1/2" ID hose and the volume changes are the size of hose. So the same thing applies to the stock fuel system. The stock banjo bolts and 6mm ID pipes are just too restrictive and cannot supply enough volume of fuel for that Bosch VP44 injection pump demands. This why I highly suggest you go up to 1/2" ID plumbing. Reasons Why Fuel Pressure Is Critical Let's take a look at a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I've labeled the fuel lines supplying fuel and return line plus the overflow valve. Now I know there is a ton of rumors on the internet of all kinds of minimum pressures for a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm going to say stick with the Dodge Factory Service Manual Specifications for fuel pressure. Now let's talk a bit more about the flow of the fuel. The lift pump supplies pressurized fuel to the Bosch VP44 injection pump the overflow valve regulates how much fuel pressure is held. Excessive fuel pressure is returned to the fuel tank. The picture below is of the bleed hole in the overflow valve this image was magnified x10 to show you how small the bleed hole really is. Give you an idea the size of the hole use a single strand of 14 AWG copper wire, and it will NOT fit the hole. The bleed hole is there solely for bleeding air out of the system which air will pass through this tiny hole rather easy but fuel will not. However, if you're looking for long life from a Bosch VP44 injection pump, I would personally suggest you adjust your minimum pressure to 14 PSI this will ensure the overflow valve remain open and a constant fuel flow through the Bosch VP44 injection pump and keep it cool all the time. Let me play out a simple scenario. Let's say my fuel pressure is roughly 10-11 PSI. I'm going to drive up into the back country approximately 40 miles with my Dodge Cummins towing an 8x8 utility trailer. Now the whole trip heading uphill into the mountain towing an empty trailer is going to be enough fuel flowing to the injectors to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump happy. However, I've spent the day and loaded up with firewood and now coming back down the mountain loaded. I'm using my exhaust brake and coasting most of the way down taking it slow and easy. At this point, the injectors are no longer firing so the Bosch VP44 injection pump is not pumping fuel out to the injectors. Furthermore, the overflow valve closes at about 10-11 PSI so let's say it did close. Now where is the fuel going??? Nowhere! It is pooled up in the injection pump and gaining heat and being broke down. You've also removed the cooling and lubricating of the Bosch VP44 injection pump so now it actually taking on damage. To give you a feel for the fuel flow coming from the injection pump with an AirDog 150 at 17.5 PSI of fuel pressure, I've got a video to explain that quickly. I've heard rumors of some people trying to develop a cool down system for the Bosch VP44 Injection pump but after making the video above, there is just no way to cool down the injection pump using the lift pump of even the AirDog/FASS series. The whole problem is the restrictions inside the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the overflow valve as seen in the video above. So the only way to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump cool is to keep fuel flowing through it at all times. So to keep the overflow valve open I suggest the 14 PSI minimum pressure. I'm currently at 136K miles on my Bosch VP44 injection pump and still going strong using a 16 PSI minimum pressure and an 18 PSI idle pressure. Here is a short video of stable fuel pressure from 55 MPH to 70 MPH at WOT. Here is another video done with idling, cruising, and WOT operation. Yes. I got a bit carried away and sloshed the fuel in the tank and sucked an air bubble and the pressure fell off. Cranking Pressure Test Here is a simple test on how to do the test for cranking fuel pressure. Pull the fuel pump relay in the PDC and then attempt to start the engine. Pay attention to the fuel pressure gauge during cranking. Be aware this test will trip a P1689 code and light the CHECK ENGINE light. Excessive cranking pressure can lead to difficult starting problems. Suggested Lift Pump Replacement You should replace the stock fuel system completely since it cannot supply enough fuel for even stock requirements without causing damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump or adding stress to the lift pump. The pumps I suggest are proven and come with a lifetime warranty. These pumps come with a full kit and replace everything from the fuel tank to Bosch VP44 injection pump. AirDog 100, 150, or 165 Raptor 100 or 150 FASS 100 or 150 FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.2 - 89 GPH) I don't suggest these pumps... Because they don't address the pump location, plumbing restrictions, or come with much of warranty. Stock Carter or Carter Campaign Pump (4090046) Holley Blue or Holley Black FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.1 - 40 GPH) AirTex Mopar's Notes: That was true for the DDRP Ver.1 However, DDRP-02 is rated at 89 GPH and will hold pressure. It is listed as a Stock replacement pump designed to perform better than the Stock pump, but not for Chips that add fueling. I place a Power Puck on my truck with the DDRP-02 and saw no difference in FP at either idle or WOT, (PP is a timing chip doesn't change the amount of fuel). That said the PP is currently removed from my truck as I overpowered my clutch both loaded and unloaded, back to the stock clutch is fine. Looking for a Valair possible DD organic, or SD Kevlar/Ceramic. It is currently in the stock location and giving 15 psi at idle and 10 at WOT. Information Provided By: rhagfo http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/404412-fass-ddrp-02-a.html#post4197714 Additional Information (About Performance Crowds & Fuel Pressure) I've seen several times where people will link back to performance pump builders and quoting where they say, "(Un-named) proved that 5 PSI, under load, made all the horsepower the VP44 pump could make, even with stock fuel lines, fittings and supply pump." This might be true but there is nothing ever said about the life span of the pump at these conditions. So... Please do not follow these performance crowds into destroying a perfectly good Bosch VP44 injection pump. The fact still remains from Bosch the actual designer of the Bosch VP44 injection pump states that injection pump should return 70% of the fuel back to the fuel tank for cooling and lubrication purpose of the VP44. Being the only way a Bosch VP44 injection pump can do this is to have fuel pressure above 14 PSI to open the overflow valve. Then if the stock Bosch VP44 injection pump with an enhancement box say an Edge Comp on 5x5 can consume 15-20 GPH that means the stock 35 GPH pump cannot keep up with Bosch's design of 70% return volume. So this why products like AirDog, Raptor and FASS was created because they actually meet the demands of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Then another fact that Bosch will let you know of is that diaphragm damage occurs from operating the Bosch VP44 injection pump at low fuel pressures. Making matters worse is that no Bosch injection re-builder will void warranty a VP44 injection pump with diaphragm damage. Dead give away that you had a bad lift pump or low fuel pressure problems. Please view the Bosch VP44 exploded view page to see there is no diaphragm in the Revision 027 Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Then the other fact is right from the Dodge Factory Service Manual has the minimum fuel pressures (picture at the top of the page). It even states the pressure that the overflow valve requires to open. Refer to the Overflow Valve Testing from the Dodge Factory Service Manual and see that the overflow valve should remain closed at 10 PSI and open by 14 PSI. So if the overflow valve is close by 10 PSI, then you extra cooling and lubrication just disappeared. So ultimately it suggested having a fuel system of no less than 100 GPH supply that can maintain a minimum pressure of 14-15 PSI at WOT. This will great extend the life of the VP44 because it keeps the electronics cooler longer and keeps the rotating parts lubricated properly. So please people let the facts and information from the actual designers of the injection pump (Bosch) and engine (Cummins) provide you proper information for your fuel system for your engine. Don't be swayed by performance shops claim of high horse output with little fuel pressure. As I proved right here doesn't work for the longevity of the VP44 injection pump... Another thing to bring up there are people that are increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI. Please don't do this. The return port leaving the VP44 pump isn't very big at all. The return port is on the left and supply is on the right. As you can see increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI put you at risk for shaft seal failure. Increasing the pressure above 20 PSI isn't going to improve the return flow. I say stick with the 14-20 PSI pressure range for seal safety. Additional Information (About Maximum Flow Rates) Here are some calculated flow abilities of the stock fuel system vs. 1/2" big line kits. This is not calculating bend, turns, offices just straight flow for open end plumbing and this is a rough calculation. Pipe Size Gallon Per Hour Flow Rate Gallon Per Minute Flow Rate 6mm ID pipe 75 GPH @ 15 PSI 1.2 GPM @ 15 PSI 1/2" ID pipe 570 GPH @ 15 PSI 9.5 GPM @ 15 PSI Use The banjo bolt Shrader valve to test for fuel pressure, Item 3 in the above diagram. If you have a 98-99 truck the port might be on top of the fuel filter housing. You can see the 90* bend fitting coming out of the top of the fuel filter housing in the below picture. Install a Shrader valve and test from there. I'm hearing of tales of shops, mechanics, or dealers doing the old hook up the fuel pressure gauge and only checking fuel pressure at idle. This is wrong. Because I've seen lots of cases where fuel line restriction, fuel filter plugging, gelling fuel and other thing causing fuel pressure to drop out under load. Like this video from a friend of mine, you'll see he's got awesome fuel pressure at an idle (where most shops gave him the green light). However, what the shops did not test for is WOT at highway speed, and you'll see in the video, he can pull way down to 0 PSI. Anything under 14 PSI is a concern... Anything under 10 PSI is a serious problem. As for having a gauge in the cab all Dodge Cummins trucks should have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Because like you seen bench testing with an idle pressure is meaningless if you can't see the WOT pressure at highway speed.
  3. How To Install an AirDog 150 Fuel System

    How To Install an AirDog 150 Fuel System The AirDog 150 fuel pump is a good design kit. It comes complete with all hardware, mountings, fitting, hoses etc. to hook up to your Dodge Cummins Truck. It was rather easy to install on my truck since I already had a Vulcan Big line Kit and Carter campaign lift pump. Mounting suggestion (for 4WD trucks) is that you push the pump forward towards the transfer case so the skid plate can protect the pump and filters from road debris. But make sure you leave enough room to access the transfer case for fluid checks and drain and fill service. As for doing plumbing it rather straight forward. Route the hose and cut to size. But I'll make another suggestion. Look your routing over very carefully for a place to protect the fuel line from damages (sharp body edges, tight spots that could pinch, or get snagged by road debris, etc) Also remember to include enough room for your connectors. Below is the return fuel setup. As for doing the electrical is also very straight forward too. It was designed rather good too. Looks just like stock wire harness. Suggestion for routing of wiring. The pump power leg should be routed with the taillight harness on the truck then you can zip-tie to the existing wiring and it look rather factory looking. The relay and fuse can be mounted on the firewall by the ABS controller. There is an existing ground wire in this location and I utilized the screw to mount both the fuse and relay on this ground screw. Draw straws Install (Old School) Now for the draw straw kit took some time and consideration. You got to ways of installing the draw straw by pulling the bed of the frame or to drop the tank. Since I've got a topper on my bed and lots of stuff in the bed of my truck it would be best to drop the tank. Here is a picture of the tank removed and I did prop it up on wood so the bottom of the tank didn't get flattened. Now you got to drill your hole for the draw straw. I use a 1¼" I drilled it on a high spot of the tank towards the front. After a period of time has passed now I found out that the hole should be smaller like 1 1/8" hole. Basically, now all you got to do is assemble the draw straw part and install it into the tank. But you'll find out that the straw is a bit too long and needs to be trimmed. I pushed the straw into place and measured the amount that it was sticking out of the grommet then trimmed it off. I did add some grooves to the bottom of the straw to keep it from sucking flat to the bottom. Now I get asked a lot about how much gap to the bottom of the tank you need for the draw straw. This is an easy answer you want to place a quarter (coin) on the bottom of the tank and the tip of the draw straw should just touch that. Seem tight, right? Well think about the weight of diesel at roughly 6.6 pounds per gallon there will be 60 pounds of diesel pressing down on the tank bottom at a quarter tank so this measurement will widen with more fuel and less as the tank empties. I lightly notched the tip of the draw straw to keep if from ever sucking flat to the bottom. As for performance I've managed to run down below 1/8 tank warning light several different times now with no problems. So now you should be complete. The Draw Straw should be all assembled and installed in the tank. So now re-install the fuel tank and hook up fuel line going to the AirDog 150. All you need to do now is re-prime your fuel system. My results were great. I've got awesome fuel pressure now.
  4. Having an issue and just starting to look for the cause. Have a 1999 24v with a 5 speed transmission that will shut down after you let off the accelerator when you accelerate hard. After it dies you have to crank the engine excessively to get it to restart. At times it won't restart unless you pull/coast start it or bleed the injector lines.
  5. Ok, I did this 3 weeks ago so I am just finally getting around to doing my write up. I know people have concerns with the airdog/raptor issues, but hey, somebody has to see if they are fixed. I have no concerns about these pumps, as I have never had any problems getting warranty on customers raptors. Also, I have an electronic gauge as well as a quick release fitting for a mechanical gauge to check pressure whenever I need to.First things first here are the partsAirdog and hardwareHere is the sump kit by Bean's dieselFirst thing I did was drain the tank through the fuel filter housing drain into 5 gallon buckets and jumping out the lift pump wires to control the flow.Here is what your fuel looks like when you mix 2-stroke oil at 128/1Now time to put together the Airdog pump and fittings, I used some bituthene around the plates that mount to the frame and also between the actual pump and its mounting bracket to dampen any vibrations/noise.I ran all hoses and wiring, that ran up to the engine bay, through the frame rail to clean up and protect them. I also ran the fuel line into the stock filter housing to keep the extra filtration as well as the water separation. (I don't believe the fuel heater does much good)Next I installed the Vulcan big line kit, here are all the fittings and sizes to help clear up anythingThis is the fitting that will go into the vp44 and the bottom of the filter housing.These are the elbows that will hook into the previous fittings. The one with the 1/8 fitting should go on the vp44 fitting.Here is the glowshift maxtow gauge I got, its an analog as well as having the digital number readout. I am not to happy with the gauge as the needle looks like a windshield wiper when you are driving and have the throttle on anything off idle. I think the sensor is way to sensitive because with a mechanical gauge, the gauge only drops 1 psi at WOTHere is the fuel snubber that came with the fuel pressure gauge, this or a needle valve is a must to keep your pressure sensor safe from the hammering the vp44 does.Elbow with adapter and snubberNow onto the fuel sump. They say to drill it right below the stock fuel module, so I cleaned up the tank really well. After drilling the pilot hole with the provided hole saw, I let any fuel drain out that was still in the tank. After it stopped dripping, I finished drilling the hole and cleaned up all the shavings. After I drilled the hole I think drilling under the stock sender is not the best as it interferes with the installation of the sump.Sump all installedSump is roughly 1" tall and sits above the frame rail. Yes something could hit it and tear it off but I rarely go offroad so I won't be worried about it.And finally, its installed. This is my attempt to show how far everything hangs under the truck and the protection it has.Final thoughts, so far so good. As I said earlier, with the mechanical gauge, I only drop 1 psi at WOT with my setup and chip on highest setting. Don't believe there will be any gains in mileage, but I now know I have great fuel pressure (19-20psi) and great filtration.
  6. Hello everyone. Iam in the middle of driving from Idaho to North Dakota and am having issues in Glendive, MT. I turned off o!f the interstate and slowed to ~15 mph before merging on to a different highway. My truck accelerated fine and at ~45 mph a check engine light came on and I lost all of my accelerator function. I am 770+ miles into the trip and everything else has been fine until now. It is about 10 degrees out so i am afraid to shut off and attempt a restart/check codes via key trick in fear of freezing to a pop sickle overnight. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!P.s. I am running anti-gel in the fuel so plugged filter shouldn't be an issue and I do not have a pressure gauge to check fuel psi. Engine is idling smoothly, temp is good, oil pressure is good and my fuel filter is 2 months old.
  7. Here is what it is doing: 1) Takes 1 to 1.5 secs to start... prior to injectrs/V adj... as soon as it turned over it would start.. 2) Rpm is around 740-750 with ever so slight bump to it... like its out of time or missing... it was very smooth prior to the install and had 780-800rpm. 3) I put it in reverse and it stalled (twice) when a bumped the throttle never done that before. 4) Noticeably more smoke (puff) at start up... and when i bump the throttle just sitting there it will puff smoke. Did not really do that before... 5) I was very careful installing injectors and crossover tubes they came with protective covers and i was very cautious when i put them in... injectors and tubes all snapped in and went together like they are suppose to... 6) When I was adjusting the valve clearance I used the alternator pulley to turn the engine over... I had the injectors out. The eng would not turn in direction it turns when running... the belt would just slip on pulley... So I was able to turn it in the other direction. Could I have hurt something by doing that? I did hear some clicking sounds coming from the lower engine back by the tranny it sounded to me... I need some expertise on this one! - - - Updated - - - After wise counseling from this site and others I did some trouble shooting... APPS voltage reading and fuel system bleeding, CORRECT torque on High pressure fuel lines at the head and lift pump pressure adjustment. Results: 1) hard start has gone away for now... 2) rpm more consistent and steady @ 750rpm... 3) no more stall in reverse now... 4) normal smoke puff at start up... 5) rechecked valve lash on all of them and they are within limits... The video is after all of your recommendations... turn sound up at the start of the vid (then down as the truck accels... air over cam get noisy) and when I am sitting there and later in the vid when i start it up you can here the idle pretty good... thanks for all your help! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05bnRloNC7M
  8. Hey everyone, I just bought my first CTD. It is a 2001 2500 x-cab, long bed 4x4. Has a 4" BDS suspension lift, and air ride. 145k miles. I am loving it so far. I have bought and installed a BHAF already, but other than that it is all bone stock. This is my first diesel so I will probably be posting lots of questions on here. I will be driving this truck daily and eventually will be towing a 5th wheel camper with it. I would like some input on what fuel system setup, and other mods would be the best for what I intend on using it for. Thanks
  9. My trucks got only 68,000 on it with the PO216 code. The thing that bugs me is it runs real well, with a little lesser mileage, but, the code was cleared and has not come back. At least with a half hours worth of driving anyway.The problem is, this truck is the one I use primarily for long distances. Blue Chip Diesel says it won't leave us stranded. I am hearing conflicting reports on that.How many you guys ever got the 216 code and your truck kept going many more miles? Thanks a bunch for any advice.P.S. I'm already scheduled to get a new VP on Tuesday. Just can't put my finger on it though.
  10. Have not been around for awhile been working out of town. Now that I'm back home I want to upgrade the fuel filter system. Here is my ideal. I would like to remove the stock fuel canister and replace with the Fleetguard fs19596 with water in fuel sensor and Cat 1R-0750 after the raptor pump(frrp). After looking at the filter heads and the space where the canister is I think I can fit it all in there. What do you guys think? Will the raptor be able to handle the filters after it? Thanks
  11. Well fellas, I can now officially call myself a dumb@$$!!! I made a very stupid mistake! As y'all now, I'm installing an engine in a guys 6.7 Dodge 2500 because of his neglect and stupidity! Now I'm having to tow my own truck in. He apparently doesn't realize that these trucks run off diesel fuel.... he ran my 98.5 3500 24 v out of diesel....and drive it 60 miles with it spitting and sputtering!!!! He calls and said hey something's wrong with your truck... I turned in my driveway and it bucked hard and died!!! :mad::banghead::banghead::banghead: I asked why didn't you call me 60 miles ago...his response was I knew you were busy working on trying to finish up my truck and yours was still running!!! He asked on your way home can you stop by and see if you can get yours running again....I really need to use it again tomorrow!!! Well I stopped by on my way home, got my new diagnostic tool out that I just bought from Matco tools and scanned it....I have the death codes for the VP-44!!!:mad:: so guess what!!! He is paying for my new pump and labor and tow bill for me to fix my own truck, and I'm going to put my truck in the shop and fix it first. After I get it going! I'm then going to finish his truck. I know y'all are wondering why I was letting him use mine in the first place...I'm a nice guy and hated seeing him loose money and not being able to do his job....well guess what!!! It bit me in the @$$ and now I'm the president of the dumb@$$ society :banghead::banghead::banghead: sorry to rant and rave guys but I'm a lil perturbed at myself!!!
  12. Well i think my VP just bit the dust, truck was running just fine i left it running went in a store came out 10 mins later truck wasn't running, It cranked right up idled fine but when i gave it throttle it was not having it exhaust was gurggly and sputtered alot, so i limped it home about 10 miles going maybe 20-30MPH it would clear for maybe 3-5 secs at a time then cut back out. I got codes P1693, P1689, P1688,P0252,P0251,P0232 which = VP44 bad. I checked my fuel filter housing and it was full of fuel and it is still getting plenty of fuel so the Lift pump is good as far as i can tell, is it possible for it still work and the VP be crap? I also cracked the 1st and 3rd injector from the front and cranked the truck i got fuel but not much it sprayed ok but was foamyish. I checked the plugs on my ECM all tight and clean also checked all wires/plugs on the VP and Lift pump. I don't have a FP gauge installed truck is all stock still has the Void sticker on the VP With 285,XXX Miles Sorry about the long post, I have the money to go get a new VP and lift pump but i'd prefer not to if not needed i hate wasting $$$, I am capable of doing the work myself id just like to have some experienced help, So if there is any one near by who is experienced with taking the VPs off and such or has a fuel pressure gauge and wouldnt mind giving me a hand id greatly appreciate it, I'd help with fuel/Beer your pick haha Thanks in advance
  13. So i bought the gauge with the gauge kit and am getting ready to hook it up, Do i need to use the pressure gauge isolator shown in the pics? and if so what does it do? also i have a schrader valve coming off of my vp44 can i plumb the gauge in there?
  14. I just installed a airdog ll about 3 months ago along with a new VP44 I bypassed the original fuel filter canister ,Now I would like to utilize the canister with the water in fuel sensor and the fuel heater mostly because winter is coming upon us soon here in Michigan ,Right now I have a 1/2 line to the VP44 I would like to install a reducer from 1/2 inch to 3/8 and install right to the top of canister and come out of the outlet with 3/8 down to the VP44 is this possible and if so where can I get these fittings ?
  15. I am thinking of running a 100 micron or something along those line in front of my raptor pump. I am running the standard screen that they send with the pump but I think that if I run a finer filter before the raptor that if will help keep it running quieter. Do you thing that its worth wild?
  16. Now I got code 216:cry: after code 230 cleared by itself. Truck runs smooth as glass with no symptoms:think:. Has new Raptor 100 with the harness. Running 17.5 fuel pressure. Volt meter shows 13.1 volts at the lift pump when you bump the starter. Batteries at 13.6. fuel relay in the PDC tests good. Both filters changed 3,000 miles back with A clean and clear bowl on the Racor filter bowl.Okay, should I switch out the primary filter (suction side) from a 45 g.p.h. to a 90 g.p.h.? Might have too much restriction. I know I can pull f/p from 17.5 down to 14 with half inch fuel lines all the way.Should I not go to Yosemite with the 216 error code? It's a 1300 mile round trip... T.I.A.
  17. So I have a 2001 dodge cummins with the 6 speed manual, it has 50 horse injectors (50k on them) new vp44 (20k on that) the batteries are fairly new. It also has a pacbrake, air dog 150 which was installed before the new VP44 and a holset turbo that pushes a little more boost than stock and it also has a 4 in straight pipe. The issue with this truck is I have a miss and I called the kid tonight and he bought the APPS sensor from dieselsource.com and HE DID NOT CALIBRATE it. He told me he was getting his dead pedal in the same area I said it was missing at. I have cleaned the IAT sensor, probed the ECT and it all checked out good the only codes are a P0500 ( speed sensor signal ) and P0118 ( self created high voltage in ECT sensor while testing it). So tonight I pulled the battery cables followed the steps exactly and after I turned the KEY back off after calibrating it, I started it and idled it up and the miss started at 1200 RPM and went through 1700 and then in a few mins it only isolated to around 1500-1700.So my main question is what can happen if you DO NOT calibrate the APPS, and any advice on this situation would be very helpful. I am about to sell this truck and I NEED TO FIX THIS!Thanks, Corey
  18. I am about to purchase the Raptor 100. I was under the truck today just trying to see what i am getting into. It seems I have a pump mounted to the frame next to the gas tank, which i knew because I can here it come on (and its not the first time under the truck)....when i follow the fuel line up towards the filter it looks like there is another pump mounted on the block next to the filter. I followed the fuel line to this (pump?) and then out of it into the top of the fuel filter. I have only had this truck a couple months and I dont know the history. I am thinking that the original pump was block mounted? And that when someone replaced the pump they just left the old pump in line? When I install the new lift pump should I just take the new fuel lines straight into the connection at the top of the filter?Thanks for any help for the new guy.:)Jason
  19. First off, let me say that this forum has been very helpful before, but I just can't seem to diagnose the issue this time. Hopefully someone has an idea on how to fix this.I installed my 4 gauge Autometer digital set(Boost, EGT, FP, and Trans temp) yesterday. Everything went in smoothly. Went to start truck up, wont start. Thought ok probably the fuel pressure, so cracked one of the lines, got fuel coming out, closed it. Tried it again. Wont start.:banghead: The FP gauge reads 0 while I crank, is that normal, or will it not register until I start the truck up? Any ideas??? Thanks ahead of time!!
  20. Well on the Suggestion of 98whitelighting, i lurked around searching on here for what my issues may be but to no avail i didn't find a solution to my problem. As of 2 days ago my truck was running just fine, then my CEL came on i went to parts store scanned and came back with P0237 MAP truck ran fine though so i cleared, came back about 6 hrs later cleared again probably coming on because of my XZt+ i had just uploaded a new tune to it. I don't know if this coincides with my issues from today, truck was driving fine this morning went to pick up a load for our job site and on the way back cruising about 35MPH truck just shut off, I checked fuel canister had bout half canister i topped it off, had plenty of fuel in the tank. tried cranking for about 5 mins to no avail so i had it towed. As to that point i searched all over Cumminsforum with no luck to my issues, so i figured id try over here. i have unplugged the XZT+ checked Batts, unplugged APPS and reset tried jumping the MAP Could a bad MAP cause a no start? i dont have the socket to take it out at the moment to clean. i can hear my LP buzz for bout 2 Secs when key is turned on no start like normal. Only conclusion and can come up with is maybe my VP is shot? ive checked fuses/relays all connections still just turns over. And i haven't installed a FPG yet i know thats a first for these trucks i just havent had time with work very busy lately. I'm sorry for such a long post im just trying to cover every issue that has happened and step ive taken to resolve. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  21. My truck has been dead for a few days now and I was referred to this site for better, more useful help, so here goes... I was in the middle of a coolant flush, heater on full blast, truck was idling for maybe 20 minutes, then suddenly sputtered and died. It cranks but will not fire up. Throws a P0234 code for "overboost", however this seems to be irrelevant, as I was driving it unusually hard the night before, to check for oil leaks since I had just changed oil/filter. Anyways, the issue seems to be narrowed down to lift or injector pump, or both. Heres what I've done so far: added 5 gallons to fuel tank, primed pump 8 times, loosened injector line on one of cylinders while cranking and got some fuel to come out. However, even after priming pump, fuel canister is near empty, pointing towards LP. The next issue is figuring out how much, if any, damage is done to VP since this truck has 200k with no service records and I've only owned it 3 weeks. I've been directed toward 2 bluechip articles regarding some testing procedures that I will get to. I was referred here for some extra help and advice without the "pissing matches" on who's right or wrong.Also, when I crank the truck for say... 5 seconds straight, and let the key go, the pump whines pretty loud under me until I pull the key off. Not sure what means, obviously, even though it's making noise, it can't be pumping fuel can it? My canister would be full, but only has maybe an inch of fuel in it. It's a little late to go out and test anything now, but please share any info you might have for me in the meantime. Thanks guys
  22. Just installed dragon flow 275hp injectors and custom built turbo. Truck runs the same! I tried to run a quad adr last summer did the same thing! no more power no smoke nothing. No codes either. A smarty will make some more power and little smoke before it builds boost. Anyone have any idea what my issue is?! I have owned this truck for 2 years and put 15k miles on it its got 136 now. It runs drives and never skips a beat BUT will not make any more power is this thing cursed or something?
  23. has anyone bought a delphi fuel lift pump and if so how did it work and does it have enought pressure ? Thanks
  24. I am having a longer cranking issuse then i ever experienced ,I just had a airdog installed and now have excessive cranking ,now I have exchange a few sentences with one of the mopar members here and this is what I just did, 1st> the truck sat all night, went out unpluged the airdog turned key to start and it fired up about a 1 second or less crank,turned it off right away, 2nd> I plugged the airdog back in and turned the key to start without waiting for pump to prime it took about 1 1/2 seconds to crank over, 3rd my truck is sitting in a driveway with the front faceing up hill when it started the 1st and 2nd time I drove it for about 13 miles and about 30 minutes 5 miles freeway the rest stop and go lights with the truck warmed up setting in driveway front end up again I shut it off and let set for about 15 minutes ,4th I went back outside and put the key in and turned to on position let airdog prime when it shut off I turned key to start it and it cranked for about 3 to 4 seconds before starting left it running for about 6 minutes turned it off ,5th I let truck set for about 25 to 30 minutes I unplugged airdog again turned key to start position and it fired right up 1 second or less.:banghead:
  25. My truck ultimately runs great. It has good power. I recently replaced a crankshaft position sensor and noticed the plug will need to be replaced also. However replacing the sensor only, the check engine light has not illuminated again.However recently I have started to get a miss at idle after coming to a stop. Very slight, but noticeable. You can feel it in the truck. Not similar to the hard miss the crank shaft position sensor caused. The weird thing is my AirDog 150 has also started dropping pressure pretty bad. When new it was putting out 17psi nearly constantly, about a year later it was at 15psi. Then it kept dropping, much quicker after that. Now it is at 11-12psi idle. Though it still holds over 10psi WOT. I do have the typical draw straw issues at 1/4 tank.I purchased a new filter tonight (NAPA) and plan to install it tomorrow. If the pressure does not increase a significant amount I will add some washers to increase the pressure like I have seen done on here.It seems as though the AirDog is drawing air more often than it used to. At a 1/2 tank I can draw air. I did replace the sending unit recently so I am fairly sure it is not that. Besides I can run the truck to nearly empty and as long as I don't make a quick stop it is fine.You can hear the difference in the pump noise when it draws air. It is fairly significant. I am planning on installing a draw straw in the basket to remedy the 1/4 tank issue.It is just odd to me that this miss only occurs at stop lights regardless of the tank level. Once it has idled for a bit at the light it clears out. It never happens when the engine is cold it seems. Only when warmed up and after a stop. No elevated smoke levels at all.The truck is slightly harder to start in the cold lately. I plan to replace the battery cables and probably start looking at replacement batteries...these Walmart batteries didn't last nearly as long as the Duralast I had before. The truck also on occasion cranks for a long time when parked facing down hill.Any ideas?