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Showing results for tags 'valve lash'.
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Valve Lash Adjustment For Cummins Valve lash adjustment is suggested to be done at 150K miles which I think is too far down the road. My valve lash were out of adjustment a bit at 92K miles. So this is how I did my valve lash adjustment on my truck. Valve lash adjustment is fairly simple to do and doesn't require much for tools. Tools Needed: 1. Feeler gauge set (0.010 and 0.020) 2. 9/16" box wrench 3. 10mm short socket 4. 15/16" socket 5. both 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets 6. Allen wrench 7. mirror. Valve lash adjustment should be done on a cold engine with a coolant temp below 140*F. The first thing you need to do is pull the valve cover off the engine. You'll need a 10mm short socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolt till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve cover will come off on the passenger side. You got to slide it towards the turbo and work it over the top of the heater hose. Take your time is will go... Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) like in the picture above. Now you'll start adjusting valve lash. Intake valves 1, 2, 4 and Exhaust valves 1, 3, 5 which I've circled for you. Just remember the long rockers are exhaust valves and the short rockers are intake valves. Using a feeler gauge you want to adjust all intake valve lash to 0.010" gap and all exhaust valve lash to 0.020" gap. You'll be inserting the feeler gauge like shown. This is the part you got to take your time on. As you'll notice as you tighten up your adjustment screw the feeler gauges seem to be pinched in-between but try to hold the feeler gauge flat you'll notice it get loose again. So take your time... Now when you get ready to tighten the lock nut or finger spin it tight. Then as you tighten the nut you go to hold the adjustment screw still. But if you notice your gap is loose twist both nut and screw tighten a little bit. Or twist the adjustment screw loosen as you tighten the nut. This will increase or decrease the gap a little but not much. Now that you done this set now you go to do the other half of the valves. So now twist the alternator some more till you see (BDC -Bottom Dead Center) for the Bosch VP44 injection pump gear. Now adjust the rest of the valve lash. Intakes 3, 5, 6 and Exhaust 2, 4, 6. They are marked in the picture below. Again remember the long rocker are exhaust valves and short rockers are intake valves. Double check all the jam nuts that they are TIGHT! Mopar's Notes: Also wouldn't hurt to throw in the torque specs for the lock nuts on the adjusters. 18ft-lbs for the adjuster nuts and 18 ft-lbs for the valve cover bolts starting in the center out. inlinecumminspower http://idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7665 You now have completed a valve adjustment on you engine. Now you got to reassemble the valve cover. Replace the gasket if it damaged typically the gasket is serviceable for many years. Then remount the breather cover on the gear case and hook up the vent tube. You'll hear a slight difference when you start the truck up. It going to be a bit quieter. Let it idle a bit and double check your valve cover for leaks.
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Here is what it is doing: 1) Takes 1 to 1.5 secs to start... prior to injectrs/V adj... as soon as it turned over it would start.. 2) Rpm is around 740-750 with ever so slight bump to it... like its out of time or missing... it was very smooth prior to the install and had 780-800rpm. 3) I put it in reverse and it stalled (twice) when a bumped the throttle never done that before. 4) Noticeably more smoke (puff) at start up... and when i bump the throttle just sitting there it will puff smoke. Did not really do that before... 5) I was very careful installing injectors and crossover tubes they came with protective covers and i was very cautious when i put them in... injectors and tubes all snapped in and went together like they are suppose to... 6) When I was adjusting the valve clearance I used the alternator pulley to turn the engine over... I had the injectors out. The eng would not turn in direction it turns when running... the belt would just slip on pulley... So I was able to turn it in the other direction. Could I have hurt something by doing that? I did hear some clicking sounds coming from the lower engine back by the tranny it sounded to me... I need some expertise on this one! - - - Updated - - - After wise counseling from this site and others I did some trouble shooting... APPS voltage reading and fuel system bleeding, CORRECT torque on High pressure fuel lines at the head and lift pump pressure adjustment. Results: 1) hard start has gone away for now... 2) rpm more consistent and steady @ 750rpm... 3) no more stall in reverse now... 4) normal smoke puff at start up... 5) rechecked valve lash on all of them and they are within limits... The video is after all of your recommendations... turn sound up at the start of the vid (then down as the truck accels... air over cam get noisy) and when I am sitting there and later in the vid when i start it up you can here the idle pretty good... thanks for all your help! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05bnRloNC7M -
I am going to adjust valves on my '02 and so far have the valve cover off, so far so good. Now I see that I need to move the engine to TDC which is noted on the pump gear housing. HELP...is this pump gear (with the indicator line) under the Crankcase Breather??? I have the hose off and can't seem to get the Crankcase Breather off if that's where the gear is located.Great pictures and help on the link here for adjusting valves but the part about the gear with the TDC mark was not shown. I have the Dodge Shop Manual on CD and it shows the breather as coming off....how do I get it off and if I do get it off, how do I get it back on securely? I hate to start prying on stuff and break it. Waiting for further instructions. Thanks.
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so i work at a gas station just down the road from me, i always talk to my costumers that drive dodge cummins vehicles! there's one lady that come's in almost everyday day, she has a 96 2500 ext. cab needless to say it's not the happiest sounding 12 valve i've ever heard.... i asked her if she had ever had her valve lash checked ? she looked at me like i was talking about some sort of space shuttle part lmao i then found out the truck has 350,000 km on it (still a baby) but probably needs a valve adjustment! regardless she told me that i should come adjust them for her and that i should give her my # so i did. after talking with her i soon found out she doesn't really care about her valve lash ;) but it still needs to be done. now i know ISX is the 12 valve p7100 king here so i was hoping ISX or someone could tell me if the valve lash procedure is the same for the (94-98.5) as it is for the (89-93) motors, and if there was a write up done with a tool list and a "how to" adjust valve lash on a p-pumped 12 valve, i want to make sure i get it the first time!! thanks for any help in advance and hope ya guys get a kick out this, i sure did yet another reason to love a cummins 12 valve!!!! i know i shouldn't say it but i'm going to anyways cuz we all know she'd rather be cummin' then strokin'
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tried to adjust my valves today and could not turn the engine using the altenator bolt. i turned it both ways and it slipped either way. i clouldnt figure out a way to put more tension on it with the tools at hand and dont own a barring tool. any of yall ever done it a differant way?
