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Found 67 results

  1. So if your running a junky edge comp or juice and want just a little more fun, this is what smoke out put you can expect with a 90hp 7x.0085 VCO injector from DAP. Clean burning and sensible injector for a well balanced rig. Pop pressure on this truck is 300bar. Truck setup: 99 model year, fass 95, edge juice (same program as comp), 4” exhaust, HX35W, garbage jasper trans, triple disc, 4.10 gear. this specific truck doesn’t have the pump tap installed due to a new VP44 installed so this is just stock, level 1/sub 1 and level 2/sub 1 for low smoke and smooth acceleration to keep traction under control. With levels 3-4-5-6 with the pump tap of course expect smoke and hard torque and acceleration. This truck is a fleet tow rig and they don’t run the pump tap because employees drive the truck and they don’t want it hotrodded but wanted a little more pull without the pump tap being installed. stock: level 1/sub 1: level 2/sub 1: Good setup for daily drivers and tow rigs. You can hit 1300-1350* on wide open runs on all levels so make sure you have a good set of gauges (not glow shi(f)t, there garbage, slow and your gonna melt a piston)... would work well with S03 users also. Levels 1-4 or if you use REVO settings (actual level is irrelevant then).
  2. This article is on how to disassemble a Cummins 24v VP44 injector and thoroughly clean and then reassemble it.For starters, you need to refer back to injector removal and get all 6 Injectors removed from the engine. Once you got all six injectors out you can proceed to clean each injector. But something to be aware of there is small parts and these parts must be put back exactly the way it came apart. WARNING! Only disassemble and clean only 1 injector at a time. All the parts are tuned to that particular body. Don't mix and match parts! Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using the putty knife or a screwdriver. Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut. Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and an old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the picture above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out. Now that all the parts are soaking take an old scotch bright one that's been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes, you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out... I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern somewhat but also ensures the nozzle tip is not plugged. Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear. Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has worn marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way. The shim has to be this side up... Take notice to the side that has the wear mark for the spring... Then place your spring the body. Then there is a cone shaped piece that goes on top of the spring but make sure to place the hollow side up. This is for the pintle to ride in. The mid body goes on top of this take notice to the pins it will only go on one way... Then your nozzle and pintle go on top to look like this... Here is a good video of how I did each injector.
  3. Mopar1973Man

    Fuel Injector Install / Removal

    Fuel Injector Operation High-pressure fuel is supplied from the Bosch VP44 injection pump, through a high-pressure fuel line, through a steel connector, and into the fuel injector. When fuel pressure rises to approximately 31,026 kPa (4,500 psi), the needle valve spring tension is overcome. The needle valve rises and fuel flows through the spray holes in the injector nozzle tip into the combustion chamber. The pressure required to lift the needle valve is the nozzle opening pressure. This is sometimes referred to as the “pop” pressure setting. Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are sealed to the high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. The ferrule on the end of the high-pressure fuel line pushes against the steel connector when the fuel line fitting is torqued into the cylinder head. This torquing force provides a sealing pressure between both the fuel line to the connector and the fuel connector-to-fuel injector. The fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting is under-torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside the cylinder head and will not be visible. The result will be a possible fuel injector miss-fire and low power. The fuel injectors use hole-type nozzles. High-pressure flows into the side of the injector and causes the injector needle to lift and fuel to be injected. The clearances in the nozzle bore are extremely small and any sort of dirt or contaminants will cause the injector to stick. Because of this, it is very important to do a thorough cleaning of any lines before opening up any fuel system component. Always cover or cap any open fuel connections before a fuel system repair is performed. Each fuel injector connector tube contains an edge filter that breaks up small contaminants that enter the injector. The edge filter uses the injectors pulsating high pressure to break up most particles so they are small enough to pass through the injector. The edge filters are not a substitute for proper cleaning and covering of all fuel system components during repair. The bottom of each fuel injector is sealed to the cylinder head with a 1.5mm thick copper shims (gasket). The correct thickness shim must always be re-installed after removing an injector. Fuel pressure in the injector circuit decreases after injection. The injector needle valve is immediately closed by the needle valve spring and fuel flow into the combustion chamber is stopped. Exhaust gasses are prevented from entering the injector nozzle by the needle valve. Fuel Injector Removal The fuel injectors are located in the top of the cylinder head between the intake/exhaust valves. 1. Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate end of cables. Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector tube. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are connected to high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. 2. If injector at #1 or #2 cylinder is being removed, intake manifold air heater assembly must be removed. 3. If injector at #5 cylinder is being removed, remove engine lifting bracket (2 bolts). 4. Thoroughly clean area around injector and injector high-pressure lines before removal. 5. Remove necessary high-pressure fuel lines. (Refer to - Injection Lines). Do not bend any high-pressure fuel line to gain access to the fuel injector. Cover or cap any open fuel connections. 6. Remove valve cover. Mopar's Notes Most of us will be doing full injector upgrades or replacements. So I know the service manual talks as if replacing 1 or 2 injectors. I highly suggest you remove every as pictured below. APPS Sensor - Removal. Leave the throttle cable attached and lay on the PDC box. Remove the intake and grid heaters by pulling the 4 bolts and the band clamp. Lay the intake and grid heater aside on the PDC box. Remove the valve cover. Remove the injection lines 7. Thread Special Tool 8324 (Fuel Injector Connector Tube Remover) onto the end of injector connector tube. Mopar's Notes You can use a small flat blade screwdriver. Just hook one of the threads on the connector tube and lightly pry out. WARNING! Be aware and not scratch the mating surface of where the tube and high-pressure line and the connector tube meet if you do there will be a fuel leak. 8. Pull injector connector tube from the cylinder head. The injector connector tube must be removed before attempting to remove fuel injector or serious damage to fuel injector and tube will result. 9. Remove and discard old o-ring from injector connector tube. 10. Remove fuel injector hold down clamp bolt at the front end of the clamp. Do not loosen or remove special (2 shouldered) bolt at the rear end of the clamp. Remove injector clamp by sliding it from shoulders on rear clamp bolt. 11. Thread rod from Special Tool number 8318 (Fuel Injector Remover) into the top of the fuel injector. Mopar's Notes Take one of your short intake bolts and thread it into the head of the injector. 12. Tighten nut on 8318 tool to pull (remove) fuel injector from the cylinder head. Mopar's Notes Use a screwdriver and pry the injector straight up carefully. 13. Remove and discard old o-ring from the fuel injector. 14. Remove and discard copper sealing washer (shim) from the bottom of the injector. If copper sealing washer has remained in the cylinder head, it must be removed. Fuel Injector Installation The fuel injectors are located in the top of the cylinder head between the intake/exhaust valves. 1. Inspect fuel injector. a. If necessary, perform a pressure test of the injector. b. Look for burrs on injector inlet. c. Check nozzle holes for hole erosion or plugging. d. Inspect end of the nozzle for burrs or rough machine marks. e. Look for cracks at the nozzle end. f. Check nozzle color for signs of overheating. Overheating will cause the nozzle to turn a dark yellow/ tan or blue (depending on overheating temperature). g. If any of these conditions occur, replace the injector. 2. Thoroughly clean fuel injector cylinder head bore with special Cummins wire brush tool or equivalent. Blow out bore hole with compressed air. 3. The bottom of the fuel injector is sealed to cylinder head bore with a copper sealing washer (shim) of a certain thickness. A new shim with correct thickness must always be re-installed after removing injector. Measure thickness of injector shim. Shim Thickness: 1.5 mm (.060”) 4. Install new shim (washer) to the bottom of the injector. Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the washer. This will keep washer in place during installation. 5. Install new o-ring to fuel injector. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to o-ring. 6. Note fuel inlet hole on the side of the fuel injector. This hole must be positioned towards injector connector tube. Position injector into cylinder head bore being extremely careful not to allow injector tip to touch sides of the bore. Press fuel injector into cylinder head with finger pressure only. Do not use any tools to press fuel injector into position. Damage to machined surfaces may result. 7. Position fuel injector hold down clamp into shouldered bolt while aligning slot in the top of the injector into the groove in the bottom of the clamp. Tighten opposite clamp bolt to 10 N·m (89 in. lbs.) torque. 8. Install new o-ring to fuel injector connector tube. Apply a small amount of clean engine oil to o-ring. 9. Press injector connector tube into cylinder head with finger pressure only. Do not use any tools to press tube into position. Damage to machined surfaces may result. 10. Connect high-pressure fuel lines. Refer to High-Pressure Fuel Lines Removal/Installation. The fuel line fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting is under-torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside cylinder head and will not be visible resulting in a possible fuel injector miss and low power. (28 ft. lbs.) 11. Install valve cover. 12. (If necessary) install intake manifold air heater assembly. Refer to Intake Manifold Air Heater Removal/Installation. 13. (If necessary) install engine lifting bracket. Tighten 2 bolts to 77 N·m (57 ft. lbs.) torque. 14. Connect negative battery cables to both batteries. 15. Bleed air from high-pressure lines. Refer to Reprime fuel system procedure.
  4. So I have a 2001 dodge cummins with the 6 speed manual, it has 50 horse injectors (50k on them) new vp44 (20k on that) the batteries are fairly new. It also has a pacbrake, air dog 150 which was installed before the new VP44 and a holset turbo that pushes a little more boost than stock and it also has a 4 in straight pipe. The issue with this truck is I have a miss and I called the kid tonight and he bought the APPS sensor from dieselsource.com and HE DID NOT CALIBRATE it. He told me he was getting his dead pedal in the same area I said it was missing at. I have cleaned the IAT sensor, probed the ECT and it all checked out good the only codes are a P0500 ( speed sensor signal ) and P0118 ( self created high voltage in ECT sensor while testing it). So tonight I pulled the battery cables followed the steps exactly and after I turned the KEY back off after calibrating it, I started it and idled it up and the miss started at 1200 RPM and went through 1700 and then in a few mins it only isolated to around 1500-1700.So my main question is what can happen if you DO NOT calibrate the APPS, and any advice on this situation would be very helpful. I am about to sell this truck and I NEED TO FIX THIS!Thanks, Corey
  5. I was looking at pensacola 50 hp injectors or Diesel Auto power 100 hp injectors any thoughts?
  6. Well after doing the new trubo swap .. and the 50 hp DDP injectors I have had a hard start issue . Replaced all the o ring on the injectors twice .. new injector tubes twice .. o rings on them twice . Tightened all connections , replaced the line from the filter to the VP with a big line kit . ... still air is getting back in and draining back . If the truck sits for more than 2 hrs it takes 3 cranks to start . Before it never did this with the OEM stuff . I am at my wits end . yes I searched , yes I did the baby powder , yes I parked it up hill and down hill ... If this cant be fixed I am lost . Banjo on the back of the head tight , t fitting tight . Battery's are good , VP is new , raptor 150 is new . Fuel PSI is 19 idle 17 driving 16 wot . Key on pump primes for 2 sec gauge reads 19 psi ... crank no start until i crank 3 times . Once started it will fire all the time , just wont after it has been sitting .
  7. Anyone have an opinion as to why the Ram Cummins injectors (and others like it) cost so much? My gosh, you can buy a new dirt bike for the price of 6 injectors especially if they are modified. Even stock ones are what, $3000? Rebuilding your used injectors cost in the neighborhood of $275 each, still unblievable. Seriously, why so expensive? Is this a marketing deal, put limits on the availability and keep the price high?
  8. Found these injectors on Ebay from from a shop called Pensacola Diesel, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200587208258&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT#ht_550wt_1167. You know the old saying, you get what you pay for, so this price scares me a little. To good to be true for that price? Anyone have experience with that shops parts?
  9. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=88662
  10. 2005 Ram 2500 Begining to hard start. Overnight seems to be the worst. Died once. No codes. Fuel filter recently changed. Boss thinks its the injectors because the same thing happened to a friend of his. Wants me to change them. Never done it before. [He thinks it should be like changing sparkplugs] How big a job is it? Do you need special tools? Looking for a manual. Is the "2005-DodgeFSM.Zip " a service manual? Not sure if I can open the file, haven't tried yet. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Rob
  11. OK, I'm finally gonna spend some $$$ and get a cold air intake, high rise intake manifold, and injectors. What I'm wondering is which is best for each. Here is what I was going to buy before asking for suggestions, let me know how good or bad this combination will be. 1. Injectors: DDP 100hp 2. Intake Manifold: CFM 3. Cold Air Intake: S & B The only othe upgrades I currently have is a Edge Juice Box, Air Dog 150, Upgraded Turbo, and 4 inch exhaust. Let me know what you guys think.
  12. Thinking of getting some of these Injectors,thinking mine are due to be replaced. I'm sure i'll notice a increase in power,but more important what can i expect in mileage increase.
  13. Hey guys - replaced my injectors 1x with ISX holding my hand (where's the "flower" icon ) anyway Thinking of getting rid of my RV275's and going to +75 => +100HP ...... together with hx35/hx40 hybrid. That with my methanol/water kit should bring right at 275->425 HP which is as far I as think I should go without new headstuds/bigger turbo. So thinking a couple things. (1) What you think between full injector replacement or just nozzles ?? (2) Think of these http://www.cumminsperformanceparts.com/cpp-injectors.html + 100HP and http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/35-fslash-40%20turbo%20budget.htm or something else in some price point ? I haven';t seen anything and guys reckon they are on par with DDP. (3) ok main part/reason of this thread. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/injectors/injectors.htm Step 10 of INSTALL. When retorqing the fuel line - what tool do you use as you can't use a normal socket etc due to the line ??? I think ISX and I just guestimated this part ......is there something that can be made or bought to go with the torque wrench ?? (4) ON torque wrenches was going to get these. One for inch pounds and one for ft pounds. The foot pound one acts as a calibrator also. Seem ok ?? INCHPOUNDS http://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Industrial-Tools-Torque-Wrench/dp/B000H43VU0/ref=sr_1_14?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290725074&sr=1-14 FOOTPOUNDS http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-940759-Powerbuilt-Digital-Adaptor/dp/B0031QPJZG/ref=sr_1_11?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1290725074&sr=1-11 THANKS
  14. The dealers tell me i need a new injector... I thinkl i will go ahead buy all new would like a bit more power without nay fuel loss is this possible and do you know what kind of injectors i would need??? stock truck silencer ring missing straight pipe everything else is stock truck has 185,000 miles.....
  15. Who is Big Bang Injection ? New information recently released ! Big Bang Injection (BBi ) is an Austrian company that was founded in 2012. What started as a part time venture, evolved into a full time enterprise manufacturing High Performance Common Rail Injectors. We, the owners of Big Bang Injection (Martin Schöppl and Jürgen Tanzer), bring to the table a combined 25 years of HANDS ON Common Rail Injector experience. We both parted ways with our full time employer Robert Bosch GmbH on January 31st 2016. Our departure allows the release of information regarding our experience which has previously been kept under a cloak of secrecy, required by contractual restrictions with our former employer. We were employed at the Robert Bosch GmbH Common Rail Injector Lead Development Facility for commercial vehicles, located in Linz, Austria. Lead Development Facility. This is where the magic happens. Design, development, proto typing, assembly, testing…. This link will provide the details for you: http://smartyresource.com/downloads/BBI_Introduction.pdf Thank you! For some reason the link in the above post doesn't work from here. Try this instead! Thank you! http://smartyresource.net/forum/showthread.php?1013-Who-is-Big-Bang-Injection&p=5065#post5065
  16. Yea. As of today I had to drop my sub-level again. Getting to smokey as summer time started coming on and noticing more and more smoke as I would be towing and/or launching with a heavy foot. I'm wondering if others have notices anything like this with warmer weather? No ill-effect to MPG's at all but the smoke level is slightly higher now than was during the winter time. I'm also wondering is the injectors changing for like a break in process and flowing more?
  17. hey yall need some help here. Had to replace my injectors due to multiple bad injectors (shop did return flow test). Ordered injectors from diesel care and when I installed them the truck idled fine for about 5 minutes then i pulled out of drive and gave it a little bit of gas and heard a ting sound and truck started dumping white smoke with rough idle. Got back in garage, figured injector wasnt seated properly and pulled all injectors and tubes. One of them had a clean tip so i figured that was the injector that unseated. reinstalled everything, started it up and once again dumping white smoke with rough idle and a knock. Called diesel care and they suggested caping off each fuel line at the rail and see which one stops the smoking. they think that the system wasnt primed properly and air made injector stick open. Could this be the case? should i cap rail and see or should i pull all injectors and send all back (already not happy cus injectors i ordered were backordered and they sent me 40 overs instead of the 50's like I wanted)? Thanks for any help! 03 Cummins common rail Video of truck idling: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfDbbNmhbHs&feature=youtu.be
  18. Anyone know why there is such a shortage on bosch 505 injectors. I'm starting to get annoyed with the parts stores in my area.:banghead:
  19. Hi everybody. I am new here, and I have an interesting problem. Thanks in advance. 2000 5.9, 5sp, 4x4. 210,000mi. New injector pump from Midwest EFI, new Air Dog 100 lift pump. Otherwise stock. After sitting for a few days, it will take 5-10 sec crank time to start, but once it starts it runs normally. Tech is steady and normal. Not much smoke except at RPM near redline. When the truck is warm, if you let it idle, it will miss slightly. Power sucks over 2000 rpm, but isn't bad overall. Throws PO234 overboost code, but I feel that is due to the fact that I left my Edge boost elbow on the turbo. Edge juice CTS won't connect to the ECM, Dodge says that the Cummins Insite computer won't connect to the ECM. However, the truck still runs, and not that badly. The truck has had an edge juice w attitude installed previously, and I may have shorted out something in the ECM when I uninstalled the previous Juice. I also get 13-15mpg. The Dodge mechanic feels that I got some grit in the injector lines when I installed the pump, and fowled a couple injectors, then over the course of a couple days the fuel system is bleeding down. He also says that since his Cummins laptop won't connect to the ECM, I need a new ECM. He did use a scope to confirm the timing marks and the keyway on the pump is correctly installed. I need to check the fuel pressure coming out of the Air Dog, to ensure that it isn't too high... How high is too high? (I used to use an edge attitude to monitor the pressure) Any ideas guys? I am skeptical about the injectors theory, since I would expect it to smoke a lot more at 13mpg. Would the injector O rings or fuel bypass at the back of the head cause any of these symptoms? And I really want to make sure the truck is going to run decently before I drop $1,600 on a new ECM...
  20. I am looking to put around 75 hp injectors in my truck. what is the best and what is the worst brand, and has any one had there stock injectors rebuilt to 75 hp. I have a friend that has his stock injectors that I can rebuild and give him my set after we install them. Thanks
  21. Hello everyone, awhile back I bought some edge jammer nozzles and havnt done anything with them yet because im pretty sure that when I am to install them that I will have to set the pop off pressure. Can anyone tell me how or if I can to this on my own or if I have to pay someone to do it.
  22. I common cause to a truck that is missing is a bad injector. Tracking a bad injector is very simple. There are a few precautions you need to take first. The injectors do spray at high pressure. It tends to atomize instead of shoot at you but it still should not be taken for granted. A bad injector may have one of these problems: [*]Low pop pressure [*]Bad spray pattern [*]Clogged nozzle [*]Improper assembly (if you cleaned them and put them back together) There are a few people wondering what a miss even sounds like so this video should clear that up. By cracking each injector one at a time, the engine should miss worse since 2 injectors should now be not working. When you get to the injector that makes no difference when you crack the line, that is the bad injector (since it should have made the engine miss more). It is always good practice to check them all as there may be 2 bad injectors, or more. One thing to remember is that cracking the lines still pops the injectors, but not much. I cracked all of my injectors but one and it ran rough, but ran. When I took the nuts on the 5 injectors completely off (rather than having them just cracked) and left just one injector tight, it would not run. Cracking them makes the injectors not flow as much fuel as needed to run the engine and can be heard as a slight miss, taking the nut completely off will create a more solid miss since that injector is not firing at all. It is also safer to take the nut completely off as the fuel will mainly just drain down the side rather than shoot out of the top of the nut like it does when you crack it. The only problem with that is that you need to turn the engine off to completely loosen the nut, otherwise it is pretty dangerous. The video shows me cracking a line to check if the injector is working, if it starts missing when you loosen the nut, then you know its doing it's job. The rest of the video is after taking the nuts of 4 injectors completely off and then tightening them to show how it changes. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0ZZowFzTzA
  23. I'm getting ready for a 5200+ mile trip and with just over 100K miles on the clock I've been thinking about replacing my injectors when I do the valve adjustment before I go. I was looking at Bosch 275's when I came across these on E-bay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-Dodge-Cummins-RV275-Performance-Injectors-for-98-5-02-24-VALVE-5-9L/161397044745?hash=item2594037609:g:KBQAAOSwxH1T8Kjl&vxp=mtr They're made/supplied by Sundieselsystems http://sundieselsystems.com/performance-products/performance-injectors/ Has anyone had any experience with this brand of injectors?
  24. Here is what it is doing: 1) Takes 1 to 1.5 secs to start... prior to injectrs/V adj... as soon as it turned over it would start.. 2) Rpm is around 740-750 with ever so slight bump to it... like its out of time or missing... it was very smooth prior to the install and had 780-800rpm. 3) I put it in reverse and it stalled (twice) when a bumped the throttle never done that before. 4) Noticeably more smoke (puff) at start up... and when i bump the throttle just sitting there it will puff smoke. Did not really do that before... 5) I was very careful installing injectors and crossover tubes they came with protective covers and i was very cautious when i put them in... injectors and tubes all snapped in and went together like they are suppose to... 6) When I was adjusting the valve clearance I used the alternator pulley to turn the engine over... I had the injectors out. The eng would not turn in direction it turns when running... the belt would just slip on pulley... So I was able to turn it in the other direction. Could I have hurt something by doing that? I did hear some clicking sounds coming from the lower engine back by the tranny it sounded to me... I need some expertise on this one! - - - Updated - - - After wise counseling from this site and others I did some trouble shooting... APPS voltage reading and fuel system bleeding, CORRECT torque on High pressure fuel lines at the head and lift pump pressure adjustment. Results: 1) hard start has gone away for now... 2) rpm more consistent and steady @ 750rpm... 3) no more stall in reverse now... 4) normal smoke puff at start up... 5) rechecked valve lash on all of them and they are within limits... The video is after all of your recommendations... turn sound up at the start of the vid (then down as the truck accels... air over cam get noisy) and when I am sitting there and later in the vid when i start it up you can here the idle pretty good... thanks for all your help! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05bnRloNC7M
  25. hello, newbie and first posti took my injectors out and sent them in and had them pop tested 3 came back good and the other 3 came back bad sticking nozzels,,,Can nozzels stick?i pulled the three bad ones apart just as one of your post shows and nothing was sticking so what do they mean?can this be true?
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