Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'turbo'.
-
I was thinking of getting a new turbo to run on my truck. Has anyone ran one the Bladerunners. here is the website link for the turbo I was looking at. http://www.xtremediesel.com/afebladerunnerturbocharger46-60061.aspx
-
Trying to find specs on this turbo for a guy and I cant find any actual specs on it...(sizes) It needs a rebuild kit also if anyone knows a good place where to get kits Pn 176234 S300g Sn 02A143110196
-
Running standard V2 tuning for now. Wanted to explore the features of the Quad and play around with customized settings. Have boost defuel on at 30 psi, EGT defuel at 1200 °F, high idle kicked on at 30 seconds, warmup mode until 140 °F, MPG offset off, and lastly, turbo timer set for 60 seconds. Shutting the truck off whether I’m at level 0-10, the truck shuts off immediately rather than running the extra 60 seconds after key-off. I set the turbo timer to 300 °F, as well, and have had the same trouble in all levels. Anything I’m missing? Have had the Quad for about 2 weeks now, still trying to figure out the Diagnostics portion of the application, as well as understanding and using the Data Log portion.
- 7 replies
-
- turbo timer
- turbo
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Looking for suggestions. Lots of info here, but hard to find a specific good parts combo for a relatively minor build. My daily driver 2wd 5spd would be a lot more fun with a bit more power. I'm thinking 100hp over stock. Just installed a Valair 13" clutch. Have a wastegate actuator regulator that just showed up in the mail. Truck has a 4" exhaust, gauges, Smarty S04, an air dog factory replacement lift pump (100 gph) mounted to the frame by the tank. Was given a K&N cold air intake but not yet installed. Any thoughts on the least expensive way to reach my power goal? 600 hp would be great, but my budget is very limited at the moment and it is my daily driver. 17.8 1/4 mile times are down right embarrassing. Just looking to spice up my daily commute. If there's an article that covers this, I didn't see it. I have done some research, but most of what I've seen is aimed at heavy towing or all out power. Thanks in advance.
-
Turbo Inspection Operation Exhaust gas pressure (drive pressure) and energy drive the turbine, which in turn drives a centrifugal compressor that compresses the inlet air (boost pressure), and forces the air into the engine through the intercooler and plumbing. Since heat is a by-product of this compression, the air must pass through an intercooler to cool the incoming air and maintain power and efficiency. Increasing air flow to the engine provides: Improved engine performance Lower exhaust smoke density Improved operating economy Altitude compensation Noise reduction. The turbocharger also uses a wastegate, which regulates intake manifold air pressure and prevents over boosting at high engine speeds. When the wastegate valve is closed, all of the exhaust gases flow through the turbine wheel. As the intake manifold pressure increases, the wastegate actuator opens the valve, diverting some of the exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel. This limits turbine shaft speed and air output from the impeller. The turbocharger is lubricated by engine oil that is pressurized, cooled, and filtered. The oil is delivered to the turbocharger by a supply line that is tapped into the oil filter head. The oil travels into the bearing housing, where it lubricates the shaft and bearings. A return pipe at the bottom of the bearing housing routes the engine oil back to the crankcase. The most common turbocharger failure is bearing failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inadequate “cool-down” periods. A sudden engine shutdown after the prolonged operation will result in the transfer of heat from the turbine section of the turbocharger to the bearing housing. This causes the oil to overheat and breaks down, which causes bearing and shaft damage the next time the vehicle is started. Letting the engine idle after extended operation allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operating temperature. Mopar's Notes: You should allow your pyrometer to fall below 300°F before shutdown. If you don't have a pyrometer I highly recommend you purchase a pyrometer gauge and install it. There is also turbo timers that allow the driver to turn off the ignition and lock up the vehicle. The engine will continue to run for set time and then shut down. These add-ons will extend the life of your turbo greatly. Turbo Inspection Procedure Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded mounting studs. 1. Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks. The following cracks are NOT acceptable: Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing that go completely through. Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer than 15 mm (0.6 in.). Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect bolt through-holes. Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together. 2. Visually inspect the impeller and compressor wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some impellers may have a factory placed paint mark which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack. Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify that it is not a crack. 3. Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 25). Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists. 4. Measure the turbocharger axial end play: a. Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 26). Zero the indicator at one end of travel. b. Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and record the measurement. Allowable end play is 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) MIN. and 0.089 mm (0.0035in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these parameters, replace the turbocharger assembly. 5. Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clearance: a. Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler gauge between the compressor wheel and the housing(Fig. 27). b. Gently push the compressor wheel toward the housing and record the clearance. c. With the feeler gauge in the same location, gently push the compressor wheel away from the housing and again record the clearance. d. Subtract the smaller clearance from the larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clearance. e. Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.326mm (0.0128 in.) MIN. and 0.496 mm (0.0195 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assy.
-
- turbo inspection
- turbo
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Description The intercooler system (Fig. 28) consists of the intercooler piping, intercooler and intake air grid heater. The intercooler is a heat exchanger that uses air flow from vehicle motion to dissipate heat from the intake air. As the turbocharger increases air pressure, the air temperature increases. Lowering the intake air temperature increases engine efficiency and power. Operation Intake air is drawn through the air cleaner and into the turbocharger compressor housing. Pressurized air from the turbocharger then flows forward through the intercooler located in front of the radiator. From the intercooler, the air flows back into the intake manifold. Inspection Visually inspect the intercooler for cracks, holes, or damage. Inspect the tubes, fins, and welds for tears, breaks, or other damage. Replace the intercooler if the damage is found. Pressure test the intercooler, using Charge Air Cooler Tester Kit #3824556. This kit is available through Cummins Service Products. Instructions are provided with the kit. You can also use the below to test for boost leaks with turbos with a 4" inlet Mopar's Notes: Many people have created their own air system or intercooler testing equipment from common plumbing part at a hardware store. Basically, you want to cap off the turbo and have an air connection that is regulated to 20-25 PSI maximum. You can spray down the air system with soapy water and look for leaks (bubbles) or see if the pressure falls off. WARNING! Do not use caustic cleaners to clean the charge air cooler. Damage to the intercooler will result. If internal debris cannot be removed from the intercooler, the intercooler MUST be replaced. 1. If the engine experiences a turbocharger failure or any other situation where oil or debris get into the intercooler, the intercooler must be cleaned internally. 2. Position the intercooler so the inlet and outlet tubes are vertical. 3. Flush the intercooler internally with a solvent in the direction opposite of normal air flow. 4. Shake the intercooler and lightly tap on the end tanks with a rubber mallet to dislodge trapped debris. 5. Continue flushing until all debris or oil are removed. 6. Rinse the intercooler with hot soapy water to remove any remaining solvent. 7. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and blow dry with compressed air.
- 1 review
-
- 3
-
- intercooler
- turbo
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Im seeing a lot of guys switching to these, a few on here.. Do they really work & perform that well on the 2nd GEN trucks compared to S300 and others out there ????
-
I'm trying to decide between the S200GX-E faster spool or the Super B Special SX-E S363 more top end. I don't tow. Can any turbo gurus help me decide? Anyone have experience with these? Thanks! Oh, and of course open to other recommendations, but these are what I've narrowed it to with my lack of skill. ?
-
So having owned my ‘99 for a little over two months and towing my tractor a few times I think I have decided to see if I can upgrade some things to get some more power. I am as I think that would satisfy my needs. Looking at 7X.009 SAC injectors, a turbo, gauges, and a tuner of some kind to manage smoke and heat. Need some recommendations on a turbo and tuner. Thinking about this Turbo as a direct replacement. For the tuner: either an Edge Comp or the Quadzilla Iquad. Really don’t have the experience to create my own tunes and need more knowledge of diesel theory to be able to get the most out of a tuner so leaning towards something with “canned” tunes. Will run gauges for egt, boost, and trans temp. What range boost gauge should I use, up to 50psi? Already have a fuel gauge. So chime in guys with your ideas and help me choose the right parts to start with.
-
Where is the low power? I've been pondering this. Turbo upgrade? Diff gears? ECM mod? You get to a point when all forms and info get so jumbled you forgot what you are looking for. I don't tow much, some, but not much. I want that tire burning diesel action when I feel the need to use it. I can get about 35 lbs of boost with my setup, which is good, egts climb to the 1500s at Wot( rarely at Wot) . Little worried about that. From what I read my Hx35w (54/60/12) is a good turbo, but a 60/60/12 or 62/68/12 would spool faster. But would that rip the tires loose? If so what is the right turbo internal upgrade? I thought about changing diff gears to 4.11 for low end power with my 285s but my current 3.55 seems to be where I need to be.. I think. I've also heard talk about a Mad catcher ECM mod ripping off the line but don't know how it plays with quadzilla. Once I'm rolling, it's on, but from a dead stop what's the magic ingredient to rip loose? What am I missing?
-
Well I’m thinking about doin a turbo swap. I would like to have around 400 450 hp. I will be purchasing a qaud v2 before too long. I’m thinking I will do injectors too. What size would you do with the HE351 and v2? And now for the turbo... do I want the variable geometry or the cw model? I would also like an exhaust brake which I believe is built into these turbos? Has anyone else done this swap? What was your experience? Anyone please chip in with questions comments or concerns. Mods should be in signature. Fass 150 is alsonin the books before long! And just to clarify the truck is running well now. No issues besides the fact it snowed 6 inches yesterday and I hit the ditch! Took out the neighbors mailbox with deer guard! Thanks guys!!
-
So I'm installing a new exhaust manifold (you'd be surprised how many issues you can run into doing this simple job) and this is what I find. Is this enough oil for me to be concerned?
-
Starting a new thread so we don't clutter up other threads with this talk and we can have it in one dedicated thread. So @jlbayes you're the second person now I've seen post in the last couple days saying that the lower stall speed was terrible. Seems weird that builders like @Dynamic are using the slightly lower stalls, but the end user isn't happy. Is it just a preference on your end or is it actually performing bad? @Dynamic you said that the slightly lower stall speed was good up to around a 62mm sized turbo right? @jlbayes what size charger and stall speed where you running?! Tagging for sa purposes: @CSM @Silverdodge @Me78569 @JAG1
- 32 replies
-
- torque converter
- stall speed
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hey everyone I have been doing a ton of research lately trying to figure out what upgrade I want to do on my truck. I have looked over many different threads regarding injectors however these threads are almost 8 years old now. I have also been following the Quadzilla V2 threads very closely and recently purchased the iQuadBT. Like most guys I have gotten the thirst for more horsepower. I am on a limited budget and I am still looking for a reliable daily driver. So my question to you is, if you guys could go back and start with a truck that only had 63,000 miles on it what would you upgrade next? Here is my list of upgrades(for now): 1. 5 inch Turbo back exhaust 2. BHAF 3. FASS 150 4. Quadzilla V2 5. Bean Sump For some reason I cannot figure out my signature but my truck is a 99, 53 block five speed with only 63,000 miles.
- 45 replies
-
- horsepower
- injectors
-
(and 3 more)
Tagged with:
-
I had high speed (50 mph or >) power loss when accelerating.....it surged or cut out. I replaced the pressure sensor. I now have a whine at turbo spool up.It doesn't seem to surge as much. I rigged a pressure tester and checked for intercooler leaks. Can't find any major leaks just a few small bubbles around one clamp. What could cause turbo whine with high speed power loss. The turbo blades are clean and feel tight...no wobble. Fuel clean, fuel pressure good. Ideas, or suggestions appreciated!
-
I recently picked up a Juice with Attitude 2nd hand. It came with everyting except the boost elbow. Not too sure what the elbow is supposed to do. I understand it is an orifice, but in a closed system that will only slow down flow, not limit pressure. I was figuring the concept was to keep the waste gate closed, allowing the boost pressure to rise. I was wondering if I could substitute a J-hook (local fab) for a boost elbow, or should I get a new part from Edge? If a J-Hook is adequate, why not remove the OEM elbow and plug the port in the compressor housing and the hose running to the actuator?Appreciate your time,Joe in St Louis
- 23 replies
-
- boost elbow
- j hook
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
How long do you guys let your engine cool down before turning it off? Down to what egt??I've been letting it cool down to 320-340 before I shut it off.Thanks
- 39 replies
-
Hey guys am getting a new turbo I am planning on getting the phat shaft 62 but I am worried about the installation . How hard is it to get it on there ? Am confused on the exhaust part , since I have understood that I need a hx40 down pipe . So my question is how would I install it having the banks monster exhaust and the Banks power elbow on it ? Please if any body has any ideas and recomendations they would be very much appreciated .
-
First off I am still figuring out everything on my new pickup and this site has been full of information, thanks a lot. The previous owner told me that he had put a bolt in the wastegate and I wouldn't have to worry about getting to high of boost pressures. I have a boost gauge but I am still worried about blowing the turbo up when I get a chip for hauling. I was wondering what you guys think about this little modification.
-
I have a HX35 turbo. when I bought my Banks stinger plus it came with a quick turbo exhaust housing, big head waste gate and promised quiker spool ups. It has delivered on that promise but for the life of me I cannot find any specs on what is differant than stock except for the actuator(set to open around 34psi), and the opening for the waste gate(almost twice as large as stock). So I know I am not stock but cant seem to find any info any where as to what the differance is. I have not called Banks, but was wondering if any of you knew what is differant between it and the stock housing. Banks says it will not work with an HY, just an HX. I was very naive when I bought it and I guess I still am today.
- 1 reply
-
- banks
- quick turbo
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
I have a 01 Automatic. I replaced the auto and upgraded. I want to stick 80 to 100 Dap Injectors but i am worried about the turbo. The hy is a pos. Will a hx40 give me the boost i need?
- 32 replies
-
- injectors
- performance
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with: