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Found 6 results

  1. The date and location has been set for the ITD website photo and October dinner meet/BBQ. Bring a dish, your favorite beverages, and possibly a chair or two. Please visit the link for full information. http://idahoturbodiesels.com/topic/11251-dinner-meetbbq-member-photo-saturday-october-7th-2017/
  2. Hey everyone I have been doing a ton of research lately trying to figure out what upgrade I want to do on my truck. I have looked over many different threads regarding injectors however these threads are almost 8 years old now. I have also been following the Quadzilla V2 threads very closely and recently purchased the iQuadBT. Like most guys I have gotten the thirst for more horsepower. I am on a limited budget and I am still looking for a reliable daily driver. So my question to you is, if you guys could go back and start with a truck that only had 63,000 miles on it what would you upgrade next? Here is my list of upgrades(for now): 1. 5 inch Turbo back exhaust 2. BHAF 3. FASS 150 4. Quadzilla V2 5. Bean Sump For some reason I cannot figure out my signature but my truck is a 99, 53 block five speed with only 63,000 miles.
  3. So I'm installing a new exhaust manifold (you'd be surprised how many issues you can run into doing this simple job) and this is what I find. Is this enough oil for me to be concerned?
  4. Starting a new thread so we don't clutter up other threads with this talk and we can have it in one dedicated thread. So @jlbayes you're the second person now I've seen post in the last couple days saying that the lower stall speed was terrible. Seems weird that builders like @Dynamic are using the slightly lower stalls, but the end user isn't happy. Is it just a preference on your end or is it actually performing bad? @Dynamic you said that the slightly lower stall speed was good up to around a 62mm sized turbo right? @jlbayes what size charger and stall speed where you running?! Tagging for sa purposes: @CSM @Silverdodge @Me78569 @JAG1
  5. HX35W or HY35W Turbo Inspection

    Turbo Inspection Operation Exhaust gas pressure (drive pressure) and energy drive the turbine, which in turn drives a centrifugal compressor that compresses the inlet air (boost pressure), and forces the air into the engine through the intercooler and plumbing. Since heat is a by-product of this compression, the air must pass through an intercooler to cool the incoming air and maintain power and efficiency. Increasing air flow to the engine provides: Improved engine performance Lower exhaust smoke density Improved operating economy Altitude compensation Noise reduction. The turbocharger also uses a wastegate, which regulates intake manifold air pressure and prevents over boosting at high engine speeds. When the wastegate valve is closed, all of the exhaust gases flow through the turbine wheel. As the intake manifold pressure increases, the wastegate actuator opens the valve, diverting some of the exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel. This limits turbine shaft speed and air output from the impeller. The turbocharger is lubricated by engine oil that is pressurized, cooled, and filtered. The oil is delivered to the turbocharger by a supply line that is tapped into the oil filter head. The oil travels into the bearing housing, where it lubricates the shaft and bearings. A return pipe at the bottom of the bearing housing routes the engine oil back to the crankcase. The most common turbocharger failure is bearing failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inadequate “cool-down” periods. A sudden engine shutdown after the prolonged operation will result in the transfer of heat from the turbine section of the turbocharger to the bearing housing. This causes the oil to overheat and breaks down, which causes bearing and shaft damage the next time the vehicle is started. Letting the engine idle after extended operation allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operating temperature. Mopar's Notes: You should allow your pyrometer to fall below 300°F before shutdown. If you don't have a pyrometer I highly recommend you purchase a pyrometer gauge and install it. There is also turbo timers that allow the driver to turn off the ignition and lock up the vehicle. The engine will continue to run for set time and then shut down. These add-ons will extend the life of your turbo greatly. Turbo Inspection Procedure Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded mounting studs. 1. Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks. The following cracks are NOT acceptable: Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing that go completely through. Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer than 15 mm (0.6 in.). Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect bolt through-holes. Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together. 2. Visually inspect the impeller and compressor wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some impellers may have a factory placed paint mark which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack. Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify that it is not a crack. 3. Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 25). Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists. 4. Measure the turbocharger axial end play: a. Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 26). Zero the indicator at one end of travel. b. Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and record the measurement. Allowable end play is 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) MIN. and 0.089 mm (0.0035in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these parameters, replace the turbocharger assembly. 5. Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clearance: a. Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler gauge between the compressor wheel and the housing(Fig. 27). b. Gently push the compressor wheel toward the housing and record the clearance. c. With the feeler gauge in the same location, gently push the compressor wheel away from the housing and again record the clearance. d. Subtract the smaller clearance from the larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clearance. e. Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.326mm (0.0128 in.) MIN. and 0.496 mm (0.0195 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assy.
  6. Intercooler And Plumbing

    Description The intercooler system (Fig. 28) consists of the intercooler piping, intercooler and intake air grid heater. The intercooler is a heat exchanger that uses air flow from vehicle motion to dissipate heat from the intake air. As the turbocharger increases air pressure, the air temperature increases. Lowering the intake air temperature increases engine efficiency and power. Operation Intake air is drawn through the air cleaner and into the turbocharger compressor housing. Pressurized air from the turbocharger then flows forward through the intercooler located in front of the radiator. From the intercooler, the air flows back into the intake manifold. Inspection Visually inspect the intercooler for cracks, holes, or damage. Inspect the tubes, fins, and welds for tears, breaks, or other damage. Replace the intercooler if the damage is found. Pressure test the intercooler, using Charge Air Cooler Tester Kit #3824556. This kit is available through Cummins Service Products. Instructions are provided with the kit. You can also use the below to test for boost leaks with turbos with a 4" inlet Mopar's Notes: Many people have created their own air system or intercooler testing equipment from common plumbing part at a hardware store. Basically, you want to cap off the turbo and have an air connection that is regulated to 20-25 PSI maximum. You can spray down the air system with soapy water and look for leaks (bubbles) or see if the pressure falls off. WARNING! Do not use caustic cleaners to clean the charge air cooler. Damage to the intercooler will result. If internal debris cannot be removed from the intercooler, the intercooler MUST be replaced. 1. If the engine experiences a turbocharger failure or any other situation where oil or debris get into the intercooler, the intercooler must be cleaned internally. 2. Position the intercooler so the inlet and outlet tubes are vertical. 3. Flush the intercooler internally with a solvent in the direction opposite of normal air flow. 4. Shake the intercooler and lightly tap on the end tanks with a rubber mallet to dislodge trapped debris. 5. Continue flushing until all debris or oil are removed. 6. Rinse the intercooler with hot soapy water to remove any remaining solvent. 7. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and blow dry with compressed air.