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High Idle Kit Sale 09/06/2017
Just in time for Father Winter, we are offering a %10 Discount for the first 10 High Idle switches sold until 10/1/2017. Just use the coupon code HighIdle at checkout to get %10 off. Visit out store to see details on the High Idle Kit.
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Here is a discussion area for just about anything other than diesel trucks. A place to share other thoughts and information.
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By notlimah · Posted
I also have the 1aauto mirrors but 4th gen. Could never go back to stockers. -
By Royal Squire · Posted
I second that. 1aauto. Really like mine. -
By 215_12v · Posted
Ok so I'll try to make it short sweet and to the point as best I can.
I recently put my truck back on the road after many years of it waiting its turn to be finished. It's a 97 ram 2500 2wd nv4500 single cab , with 201 xxx on the clock. I installed a big input southbend dual disk, turbo, wheels tires blah blah blah.
Well after 111.6 miles of breaking it back in, I noticed my speed and odometer just quit. No ABS light no air bag light like I've a lot of people have pop up under this condition.
First thing first I pulled the transmission speedo drive sensor, cleaned it re installed.....nothing
Next I pulled the rear diff wheel speed sensor, cleaned it...nothing.
Okay.....next I replaced both sensors with new ones, still nada
Next I re clocked the speedo drive the tail shaft drive gear, I also thoroughly inspected both gears, no effects that I. Could see in either of them.
NOTE, the only thing I noticed, is when you look in the hole of the tailshaft housing where the sensor housing goes in, the tailshaft drive gear was about an 1/8 inch off enter to the left (toward the front bumper)
After that I traced some wiring back and fond driver side between the IC and the fender well a bundle of wires had been pinched. I crack the loom open and find BLACK/ LT BLUE tracer chaffed to the copper. I know that's the sAme color as the middle wire on the speed sensor. Patch it up , nothing
Ok, grab the snap on test light with built in volt meter , I get 3.9v and 7.1v...from what I've read I should have gotten 5v and 8v
Last ditch diag. Effort...I slap the scan gauge in....hers what I notice
-I have no MPH input which I would think rules out my cluster being bad
-water temp is glued at -40 thermostat cycles fine on the dash gauge
-from the dash tachometer vs. the scan gauge, the scan gauge is low by about 200-300 rpm when I'm rowing gears from a light until up to highway speed or back to idle.
- with my air on full blast, wipers on high, radio on high beams on, the scan gauge reads 13.2-13.3v MAX. With the loads off it reads 13.5 MAX
MY QUESTION IS...could my alternator be my problem? And outside of the aforementioned procedures....anyone's insight IS GREATLY APPRECIATED
Because I just want a speedo so I can get my truck inspected -
By Cronus577 · Posted
I went and adjusted the hydraulics so that the pedal has more throw to it, maybe this has something to do with it. Velair's HD hydraulics say the clutch should engage 2-3" off the floor which would put the clutch pedal nearly identical as the brake pedal which is where I had it but this seemed to to engage right around an 1½-2 inches off the ground or so. I'll try to measure it but I went off of an eyeball in my driveway. Also have my single disk clutch just taking up space if anybody wants it. Probably has 20k miles on it, thought my clutch went out and had a 2 days to get it fixed before an 8 hour drive to Texas so got this one from O'riley's, ended up just being a pilot bearing. -
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