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Ravewolf

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    Raton, New Mexico

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  1. So I pulled everything back apart, and idk how in the hell I did it, But I missed the copper washer on the number one injector. Truck runs now,(albeit like poop, but I think I know why), and it isn't pushing fuel out of the line. So let my mistake be a lesson, always take your time, and double check everything. I really hope I didn't screw up my truck.....
  2. So it's not a fuel pump in the tank. It's my stupid self. I didnt get new copper washers for the injectors, and I think I've got compression leaking by and getting into the fuel return and pressuring the tank. I think anyway. I had a long talk with my diesel teacher, and we narrowed it down to that. My next question is, I have a set of unused but thicker copper washers, could I use those? Will it change anything?
  3. Ok. So long story short, I tried to swap the old 150 injectors into my truck after I went through and set all the pop off pressures with shims(diesel class project). They're pretty much junk, considering they do nothing but just smoke out everything behind the truck. I ended up going back to the stocker set I got from a good guy from here (name escapes me atm, but thank you again amigo). Had hell getting the truck started again, which I think was because I backed the truck into my spot at home, and it was leaning back slightly (the road has a crown). I got a friend and he helped me get her going again, but as it was idling, it started pouring fuel out of the bottow. We traced it to the old feed line to the old lift pump, which was just pouring fuel out of the end. Now as long as I've owned the truck, this line has never leaked a drop. Bone dry. I figured the old owner was too lazy to delete the old line after putting in the FASS. Now, there shouldn't be a pump in the tank on a 98, right? The 24v just used the engine lift pump, right? If that's the case, why would fuel start pouring out of the old line? I was going to just pop the old line off at the tank, and try to cap it with something, would that work? I really don't want to drop the tank if I don't have to.
  4. So how do I turn off the oem high idle? Or even turn it on? I'd rather use quadzilla anyway to control it.
  5. Ok, so I was playing with quadzilla (going through settings and such), and decided to try my high idle again. Every time I've tried it in the past, it would shut the truck down, then the truck wouldn't start for about a minute. It would repeat this until I turned the setting off. I tried again today just to see,setting it at 10 seconds, and the truck started to idle up, but then died again. What's going on?
  6. Usually it shows the green bar when it's zeroed out, right?
  7. So i had to disconnect my batteries today because I had to pull the passenger side airbag to work on the heater. I disconnected both positive cables, and unplugged the Quadzilla. When I hooked everything back up, I plugged in the Quadzilla last. Now where the power level is, the bar is black and it's showing zero. Please tell me I didn't fry my module again.
  8. Holy heck I didn't know this thread got so big
  9. Ok. Well, I guess I try to fix what I have then. I did email blend door USA to see if they just sold individual parts from their all aluminum kit
  10. Was wondering if any of you have ever put the full electric hvac system in a second gen? I have the system that uses a cable to adjust the temp, and besides that door being broken (held together with electric tape), something happened to the cable, and now I have to pull my glove box door out and push the little arm over for heat. It will flop back to cold every time I turn the truck off. Also, I know all my vacuum pots are working correctly, but it doesn't blow very good. I'm sick of fighting with it, I've already had it out once and resealed it, and replaced all the rotten foam with door foam (best I could find), and replaced both the heater core and the ac condenser,and it's never worked right since I had the truck. Would it be hard to switch it all over to electric? Or does anyone have any advice on what to do? Maybe they have a broken hvac system with a good blend door and actuator arm and cable? I would love to rebuild it all with all metal parts, but I can't afford heater treater's kit. I also can't find any replacement doors online. Thanks for the help again!
  11. It also seems alot cheaper. Where did you get your turbo at Mike?
  12. Well, I guess I'll have to sell it then for an hx35/40 hybrid lol. In all seriousness, I'm glad I got this info because this truck has never felt right. Not that I have much experience with any other cummins, but she just felt doggy. Still pulls like a raped ape, but just super doggy. Yes it does suck to drive in town too. On the highway, it's not bad.
  13. I'm starting a new post about a previous issue. If this isn't kosher feel free to move it. So I stated my turbo only builds boost to 22psi,then that's it. It won't build boost until about roughly 2,200 rpm, and is using fuel like crazy. It's not smoking like a freight train, but still using too much fuel. The turbo specs are: Turbonetics T3 66/65/.84. I have stock size injectors in it for now, and I have the tow tune on my quadzilla. Is this turbo too big? Or should I suspect a boost leak? The turbo also has no wastegate. Just straight out the back to a 5" exhaust all the way back. I'm thinking this turbo isn't too big, and I can make pretty good, usable power with it. I know the injectors are kinda tiny for it, but even when I had the 150hp injectors in it, it was still kinda laggy.
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