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Ravewolf

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    Raton, New Mexico

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  1. So mine is kinda the same way, but I have a new slave/master set in my truck. I did accidentally pop the slave out like an idiot, but I cleaned it with a blue towel and put it back together, and got it bled (used a vacuum bleeder up top, worked like a charm). My truck doesn't creep forward in gear, but I have to fight to get it into reverse, 2nd,or 3rd unless I float the gears. I suspect the pilot bearing thought because when I put my new transmission in, it wouldn't go all the way in. About a ¼ was sticking out, but I pulled it in with the bolts. Idk if that was a good idea, but it seemed ok. New pilot bearing btw. I have a new one from torque king (the big one) are they worth the hassle to pull the trans and machine the flywheel?
  2. My crossover tubes didn't have filters in them, and looked pretty new. I assume they were changed when the injectors were changed. I reused them but put new orings on. Seems to be working fine for now. Once I get the 150s rebuilt I'll order a new set of tubes
  3. Just wanted to give you all a quick update on my truck. Got the new injectors from WiscoRedkneck, and they worked like a charm. Truck runs alot better also. Down on power obviously because of stock injectors, but it drives much, much smoother. Also starting is a dream, I barely hit the key and it lights off. Hasn't sputtered much either, just small amounts. I'm starting to think the old 150s were going out in it and it wasn't running like it should have. Still getting them rebuilt in the future, but for now I'm rolling stockish. Can't wait until my hx35 comes in finally.
  4. Tha gauge situation could be taken care of by manual gauges, right? Also, doesn't quadzilla plug into the canbus only? In theory all it needs is 12 volts to run and it could work on a standalone setup, right? I'm not swapping anything right now, I am just doing research.
  5. Well, mine still works fine(still not running, usps screwed WiscoRedkneck on my injectors) I was just curious because my friend and I were talking about swaps and such, and how someone would run a pump in that situation. He has a 79 ford truck and I joked about stealing it and swapping my 24v into it, then it just went downhill from there. Also, the 24v can be ran without the dodge pcm, I found a website that shows how to do stand alone wiring in case anyone had any ideas. Just food for thought for ya'll.
  6. Just curious, but what would happen if one were to bypass the ECM and install a switch to turn on the fuel pump? Mine works fine, but I was always curious about it.
  7. Crossover tubes, per dynamite diesel instructions, then injectors. I also held my finger on the tubes and spun the injectors a bit to make sure they were seated. I will once I get a stock set. Also I'm going to try and bleed all six injectors while it's running and see if that helps. I also noticed my fp gauge was bouncing while the truck was running. I think I might have to bleed the injection pump more. All in all it just acts like there's still a ton of air in it. No, I did awhile back, but they needed to be adjusted at that point anyway. Only thing I did this time under the valve cover was remove the injectors.
  8. Hell yea man, I'll take em! You've got mail! This is why I love this website! Brotherhood of the Cummins!
  9. I don't, I wish I did know someone. It seems like theres a ton of air in it still. It takes forever to start, and just pours white smoke when I rev it. I cracked lines 1,3,4,and 5,and they were spraying ok. I didn't get 2 because the air horn and grid heater were in the way, and six was blocked by the lift bracket. Can I take it off and just put the bolts back in? And can I run the truck without the grid heater and air horn on? I could get all the injectors then.
  10. Iive in New Mexico but I'm 6 miles from the Colorado border. Stuff ain't legal here yet. Pretty soon though lol.
  11. True. As an update on the truck, it's running again, but sounds like a couple of cylinders are dead. Tried running it at 1500 rpm, but there was so much white smoke I had to stop. Thought the law was gonna show up. Idk guys. I'm lost right now as to what to do except park it and see if I can find somebody with more experience than me. If any Colorado guys want to come help me it'd be appreciated.
  12. Hrm. Ok, I'll quit worrying about it then. Also, I found the problem! It helps when all the copper sealing rings are the same thickness. Can't believe I didn't catch it. This goes to show you can never be too careful.
  13. They aren't used, they came with the truck I remember that. What I meant was it seemed like it was "loading up" and choking on excess fuel. But I understand what you mean.
  14. I made sure nothing like that came out with the first injector. I was extremely careful about it. I don't think it's the injectors. I also pulled the torque number from online, several sources said 55 ft lbs. But upon further research, ddp says 30. So back apart it comes. Where I live we're lucky to have internet. Morons abound here. I seriously doubt that I messed up the pop pressure because everything was meticulously bagged and tagged besides the crossover tubes. Speaking of which, I took them out today (was sick for three days then it decided to snow for two days), and noticed all of them were wet past the orings. I did find a kit with green orings, and found a set that was just like the ones I removed. The crossover tubes clicked in nicely, so I think that was a big part of the problem. Also, the intake plenum gasket was completely toast, it's no wonder I never could build boost, half of it was going to the atmosphere! I didn't get it started today, as I ran out of daylight. But Dieselfuture pointed out my torque values were wrong on the nozzles, and they're way too tight. I'm going to yank them tomorrow and tear them down again. Hopefully I didnt screw anything up.... Me and my damn bright ideas.
  15. Ravewolf

    Ravewolf

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