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Found 120 results

  1. SO it seems to be one thing after another with this truck. First the batteries kept going dead due to a grid heater solenoid sticking open, then my fuel pump went, now my trans wont shift out of neutral. All in about a 3 week span.I just finished installing my new AirDog II, bled the system and fired the truck up. Went to put it in reverse, heard the engine load down like it normally does but nothing happen. Went back to park and heard a slight grinding. Put it in drive, same thing, I hear the load but no movement. Put it back in park and a lot of grinding, had to move back to reverse then park top make it stop. Turned the truck off, I can roll the truck in any gear, Park, Reverse doesn't matter.What is/could be going on here? Any help is greatly appreciated.
  2. We have the 47e automatic transmission on our 99 Dodge Cummins... purchased with around 150K and we just rolled over 200K... When our truck was in the shop around 175K I asked our mechanic to flush the transmission and he was hesitant since we did not know whether the prior owner had regularly changed the fluids. Any thoughts? We are currently experience the torque lock problem around 45-50 mph that is addressed in several other posts on here... so we are going to replace the alternator in the next few days... So any other suggestions on preventative measures to prolong the life of our transmission would be great! Thanks
  3. hey guys been a while and i need some more help, today i noticed a good amount of tranny fluid under my truck after the morning commute, i de-greased, rinsed and inspected and it looks like its coming from the tranny cooler lines (the "isolater blocks" had moved allowing the hard lines to rub for who knows how long) i am ordering the "DieselManor Generation 2 Cooler Line for 1994-2002 Dodge RAM Cummins" with the port for trans temp guage but i cant find the rest of the lines on the web! any ideas? dont want to go to the dealership." also when i turn on my a/c i get a plesant aroma of anti freeze with the occasional puff of white smoke from the vents. heater core going bad? im assuming if it is the heater core its a royal pain in the a@$ thanks for any and all help guys
  4. I have a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 diesel. About two months ago it had a cranking but no start issue, it happened about 5 times over 3 weeks. I got a code for crankshaft sensor so I replaced it and no more starting problems. But I also had codes PO 121, PO 236, & PO382, so I sprayed some contact cleaner into the TPS since that worked the last time when I had the problem a few years ago when I got a TPS code. However, after replacing the Crank sensor I was getting operation except for surging before shifting to 4th gear. Annoying, but not enough to search the problem yet.:banghead:About three weeks ago it started from stop like it was in third gear, when I got to 25-30 mph the truck would run fine. I had that problem a few days and now instead of going into second gear it slips out and and rpm's just go up, I let the accelerator off a couple of times and seems to connect to second gear for a second and then drops out again, if I get going fast enough to reach third gear the truck seems to run better but turbo is not working and I have a top speed of 50 mph.So far I have cleaned and reinstalled every ground I can find.Cleaned the battery terminals. Changed tranny oil and filter, readjusted the bands.Installed a new TPS and set the APPS by the instructions I found here.I am still getting the same codes:PO 121PO 236PO 382Any thoughts on this? I would sure appreciate any feedback before taking it in.
  5. Anybody ever do their own tc lock up switch? Tst products has a write up t install one for the cost of a toggle switch and a little wire. They tell you to splice into the orange and brown wire coming out of the middle plug at the ecm, run a wire to a toggle switch and then come out of the other leg to ground. Then they tell you to pull the trans relay and jump 2 specific terminals to give the tc lock selonoid constant power. The problem im having is when i jump these 2 terminals the selonoid (im assuming) starts to click rapidly in the trans. This does not seem right and i unplugged it as soon as i located the source of the noise. Anybody have this issue?according to theyre diagram ive got the right terminals and it seems as though alot of other people have done this with no issues...????
  6. All, A while back it was requested that when I get my trans redone, I let everybody know how it runs... Since ATS is such a strongly debated company in particular. I went with the Stage 2 trans, and 1400 - 1500 RPM stall 5 star converter. I've had this a couple days, so all I have is reviews on basic customer service and how it drives. First off, it drives great. The low stall is a bit of a compromise, as I could probably be a bit higher, 1800 - 2000 RPM and I would be a bit faster and have a bit faster spool. However, I like the fact that I can grunt around town without having to rev. The kickdown is goodand seems to mesh well with my engines power curve. It doesn't feel like the previous transgo valve body and mostly stock components AT ALL! It seems solid, as any new trans should, and all the bits and pieces do what they are supposed to do. I thought about getting a Co-Pilot, but due to the stupid $$$ I spent at ATS already, I decided to see how it drives out of the shop first. At this point I am not getting a Co-Pilot, as it really doesn't seem necessary. The efficiency of the 5 Star converter is very good, and I really don't think I am giving up $600 in performance! LOL! Customer service on the sales side was good. I dealt with Patrick, and he was quick to respond to questions and what not. He was also knowledgeable and had answers for my questions that made sense and weren't just brush off answers. Due to time, I had the shop put in a new Trans Temp gauge, as mine died. I was fairly specific about the color to sales. Black face, green back light. Turns out they put in a white face, green back light. We shall see how good they are in fixing this, as it is probably an honest mistake, as I have white face gauges in there already that I am planning on replacing. The warranty and long term drivability will be something that I learn about as time goes on... But hopefully their trans does as well as some folks I know here in Denver say theirs have done. All in all, I am a happy customer in how it drives, the install through their shop in Arvada was painless, and I hope to not have to deal with the trans for a very very long time to come. Below is the trans I got for around $5300. Perhaps I overpaid a little, but Goerend has stopped selling transmissions, and Garmon/Sun Coast/BD seemed like a toss up compared to ATS right in my back yard. Plus, with ATS I didn't have to install the darn thing! [TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=align: left][TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: bodytext, colspan: 2] [*]ATS billet input shaft [*]New performance direct clutch pack and steels with 1 added friction [*]New performance overdrive brake clutch pack and steels with 1 added friction [*]New performance forward clutch pack and steels [*]New performance overdrive clutch pack and steels [*]Low/reverse band replaced with Borg Warner Red Lining performance band [*]Intermediate/2nd gear band replaced with Borg Warner Red Lining performance band [*]1:3.8 band apply lever [*]Billet Band strut [*]Billet accumulator piston [*]Precision machined forward pressure plate (machined step) [*]Precision machined lower forward pressure plate (machined flat) [*]Precision machined overdrive brake pressure plate (machined flat) [*]New direct pressure plate [*]Performance low/reverse one-way clutch [*]Machined TV valve sleeve (prevents sticking TV valve) [*]Ability to achieve 1st and 2nd gear lockup [*]Ability to circulate fluid to the torque converter in park/reverse/neutral [*]Increase line pressure [*]Improve shift quality and firmness [*]Gasket and seal overhaul kit [*]Bearings and bushing [*]ATS 5 Star Viskus Clutch Drive Torque Converter [*]ATS Extra Deep Transmission Pan [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE] [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]
  7. I've got a 98.5 24v 2WD and 47RE auto, 175k miles. When I first start the truck, it takes a long time for the trans to shift from 1st to 2nd. After that, it shifts fine thru all gears after a stop sign, light, whatever. If I turn it off and go into a store or something, when I come back and start the truck again, it takes a long time again to shift from 1st to 2nd. After it does, it shifts fine again. So, it happens whether the truck is cold or warm and only the first time after I start it. My last fluid/filter change was about 25k ago. I have a slow leak that I haven't found yet (I have seen tranny fluid on the ground behind the right front wheel) so I keep the fluid level topped off. This just started last week. I've read the entire forum and saw others with the same issue but theirs seems to happen all the time - not exactly the same as my issue. Any ideas?
  8. I hate to speak to soon but I can hardly control myself. I finally found the permenant fix for the torque convertor locking and unlocking. Its an nv4500! I found a donor truck on CL and got the guy down to $1800. its a 2000 model and it was a dually but had been converted into a mud truck. The owner rolled it 30 minutes into his first outing and the cab and driverside body got destroyed but the motor and trans/transfercase are still good. best part is I shouldnt have to source any parts except a shifter boot. Getting it for such a good price should enable me to at least break even when I sell the engine and my auto trans/transfer case. My auto is still good and has good firm shifts but nothing takes the place of a stick in my opinion. Did I mention im super excited so I hope something doesnt go wrong. Im picking it up tuesday.
  9. Well, I'm pretty sure my 47Re (I think? It's a 99) is toast or the converter is toast. Here's what's going on...When going from "P" to "R" you can feel the tranny "jerk" as it catches gear. All seems fine In Reverse. When you go from park to D 1 2 3 or from reverse to D123 there is no catch or feeling that it's going in gear. If I get onto it, it will finally start to move but you can tell there is major slip. On the hwy it will constantly search for a gear, grab launch forward all of a sudden, slip slow way down, or what feels like a downshift and the motor will rev way up. At 60mph I'm turning almost 3k just to keep it going. Pulled up to a relight earlier and felt the truck start to stall out. Like the TC was locked and wanted to kill it out. Put it in N and it idled fine. I'm not sure if this is just a burnt up TC or entire tranny toasted. What do you guys think?
  10. I have my transmission out and will be turning it in as a core on a reubuilt transmission. I want to make sure the lines are clean when the new transmission goes in. What is the best way to do this? AutoZone has this, Has anyone used it before? Before the transmission came out, I flushed more than 20 quarts of fluid through the transmission. What a fiasco that was.... Anyway, when I drained the fluid to remove the transmission, the fluid was a nice clean, high dollar red. I only managed to put 30-40 miles on the fluid. Do you think the lines are ok? Could I install the transmission, fill it with fluid and leave the return line off and use the transmission to pump the lines clean? You guys have been helpful so far, and I want to thank you!
  11. Ok Gang...I've got a for sure way to diagnose torque converter lock up issues where it lock and unlocks at about 45-50 MPH. I had a gent call me yesterday with this problem and he's replace both batteries, alternator and the APPS sensor. Attempted all the different wiring issues (adding ground, tinfoil etc.) nothing worked. Like I told him the truck ran 11 years without all this stuff and doesn't require any wiring change to make it work. What it needs is the damaged part to be replaced. So he's returned the wiring back to stock setup.Now I told him to unhook the alternator fuse and take it for a ride... Guess what... No problems! Even though he replaced the alternator it has a damaged diode in it and it bleeding AC noise into the electrical system.So before doing any wiring mods, tinfoil, adding grounds, adding filter... PLEASE! Bench test your alternator! This is the second time I've suggested this and both time resolved the torque converter lock up issue.
  12. The previous owner told me about it, and I've put 300 miles on it empty and it worked perfect but I hooked up a trailer today and it shuddered bad, when I tap the brake pedal it quits. I have been surfing ebaymotors looking up tranny parts. Have any of you guys heard of RevMax convertors? They have a single billet convertor for $400, but I think they have a core charge on them and I'm too far away to send one back. What convertors have you guys used? I'm also thinking of either a full replacement valvebody or I'll install a shift kit, they are pretty cheap.
  13. Was surfing the site yesterday and ran across a comment stating that it is not recommended to flush out the troque convertor when changing fluid?Why would that be a problem?
  14. Hi guys. I have a couple questions on what is going on with my truck. I noticed I am shifting too early where the RPM's are low and it surges or jerks until the RPM's get higher. It is shifting into 4th gear with OD off at 25mph and it happens also about 45mph where its shifting into high gear and doing the same thing with OD on. Tonight I was doing a couple road tests and I got on it alittle more than usual and when I got home because of how it was acting, I used my scangauge and I had a p0234 code. So I have been doing alittle reading about the wastegate etc which I do not understand and wonder how the code is related to what is going on with my truck. Is it something else with these symptoms??? The only thing I have done different recently is have an Airdog 100 installed and hooked my Quadzilla XZT up a month ago. Any suggestions or answers are appreciated!!
  15. I cant seem to remember if my dodge 47re is loc up or non loc up torque convertor? Can anyone help!
  16. So, I finally got my truck back from the shop today. Even though I saved a bunch of money by using my son-in-law's dad's shop, I have some issues. I'll start with a question about the transmission lines that go to the heat exchanger. The guys at the shop crossed the lines and now they are touching. My question is whether it's ok to use anti-chafe tape or do I need to re-route them or is this not an issue and I should just ignore it? ThanksAlso, I have a...vibration or shake that is different than the old engine. It's worse in neutral than in gear. Other than that it runs great. Any input is welcomed. Thanks
  17. I know the 3 cyl mode helps warm the engine quicker due to the load put on the engine, so...If I put the truck in gear and keep my foot on the brake am I doing any harm to the trans if I let it idle like that for 5-10 minutes?What about if I do the same thing but bump the idle to 1200 rpm or so? Is that hard on the tranny or any of the parts?Sorry if it's a dump question. I only know the basics when it comes to how auto transmissions work.Thank you!
  18. Already know my VP44 is on its way out. Other than having to warm it up considerably before it will perform decently I really hadn't had much of a problem with it. Around 14 mpg on the highway and such. Now I get home from being out of town and jump into my truck , which by the way was used by my wife with no problems over the weekend. Now the tranny is acting up. Will sometimes not shift into drive or reverse when i move the gear selector. When it does shift the only way I know its shifted is by pressing on the gas and it creeps forward. Drove it around the block and it wasn't shifting into second and was racing or flaring or whatever you call it. Checked the fluid and its at the right level but it looks like its Dark Purple, not a redish purple like most tranny fluids I've seen but like Barney the purple dinosaur purple. I plan on changing the fluids and someone mentioned in another forum the rpm sensor. I was thinking of doing the pressure governor solenoid and switch. Not sure how to proceed after this. Can't believe this truck drove and ran like a bat out of hell when I bought it back in September.
  19. I asked this on a few other boards, but figured I would ask here also. I bought my Cummins about a month ago, It drove perfect. The motor is stock, and I had thought the transmission had been rebuilt at some point due to how nice it shifted and how much cleaner the transmission was comapaired to everything else under the truck. Not long after I got the truck, I desided to check the fuel pressure. I bought a cheap-o oil guage from the parts house and used one of the test ports on top of the fuel filter housing. Well My lift pump is only putting out 10psi at idle, and Zero at WOT. So I figured i would take it over to my father house to park it. (more space) Its a 5 mile trip over from my house, and on the way over the torque converter would not lock up. The transmission shifted like normal,just not converter lock up. I have not drivin it since then. I am trying to keep any further damage from my VP$$.I reason tell you all that to ask this.. Is there anything I could have bumped, or knocked loose wile I was messing with the fuel filterhousing? Before this, it shifted perfect. It would lock in at 42mph and not budge unless I slowed down, or got on the trottle heavy. I checked the soliniod and it was 30.5 ohms. On the other boards I am beening told my converter/ transmission is shot. I leave for Basic training in january so I dont plan to do anything to my truck till I get back in june. Any Ideas or things to try would be awsome. If in fact my converter is shot, thats cool too. I just dont want to jump the gun. Thank guys
  20. Don't the 3rd generation trucks have a 6-speed (better) automatic trany than the 2nd gens? Can it be mated with a 2nd gen 5.9? What are the issues? Thanks
  21. Hey guys my 2001 dually with an automatic is giving me fits. The transmission does not slip it just shifts back and forth when driving at slow speeds. OD off and it still does it. Any ideas? is there a sensor or chip that i can replace or change to stop this? thanks, Jt:banghead:
  22. Ok guys my truck has me stumped! Ill start from the begining and tell everything... My truck was doing the TC Lock and unlock at 45 MPH, after reading some stuff online I tried wiggling the black and white wire going from the battery to the alternator, stopped that problem I would just have to wiggle it every 3 weeks or so. The WTSL wasnt coming on either. So one morning(Months Later)I was leaving and my truck would idle fine but when I put it in gear I would have to push the throttle down like half way to get it to go, the truck felt like it had no power, it went to 3000 RPMs before it would shift, and when it did shift it felt like it was going to die. I pulled over like 1/4 mile from the house and turned the truck off got out wiggled that black and white wire from the battery to the alternator it ran fine. Went back home let the truck sit and about 6-7 hours later started it up, took off, and it did it again. My check engine light came on, I put some de electrical grease in the plug on that wire and it stopped, it ran fine, CEL went off for about a week, and my WTSL came on for the first time in a year. I noticed that it does it almost every morning now so what I have to do is start the truck let it idle until it warms up turn it off get out unplug and plug in the plug in the wire going from the alternator to battery and it will run fine. Also the truck will not start until the WTSL comes on which is about 10 sec after I turn the key. Now that it is doing it again the CEL came back on so I took it to pep boys to have the codes read. The technician said that I have either a fuse blown or a short somewhere because the code reader wont pull the codes off the truck. Im stumped I dont have any idea what to do next!
  23. I have a "minor" issue but figure I had better ask now before it gets worse. While travelling at very slow speeds through my neighborhood at the point where the trany shifts from 1st to 2nd it tends to jump back and forth from 1st to 2nd to 1st, and so on. Simply advancing or reducing the RPMs makes it quit. Any ideas? Tanks
  24. whats a good brand to buy ? I am in need of the sensor alone there is a gauge and all in the truck just my old sensor on the trans ( oil pan ) got a rusted tip and wire would not stay on there long enough that is a single wire sensor the other option is an aftermarket oil pan but does any of them come pre drilled for a temp sensor ?
  25. Has anyone ever adjusted the bands on the trans, if so can you notice any diffrence ?2001 dodge 2500 5.9 cummins 225,000 miles
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